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Shisimona

BIOS is all funky looking

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Posted · Original PosterOP

So I restarted my PC, and when it tried to load Windows it gave me a 0xc0000221 error code, which is apparently a corrupted driver or system DLL. Well, I popped in my Windows 10 USB to do a system repair and go to the BIOS so it will boot from USB, I got this.

 

I even cleared CMOS and it still came up like this. But what's even more messed up, my overclock is still there, not stock like it should have been.

 

And what's even more weird is, in the pic it shows M.2_1:N/A but on the side it shows Samsung SSD 970 Evo Plus 500GB.

 

It is possible my BIOS and/or motherboard are corrupted? I never seen anything like this before.

 

Shortcuts keys and mouse doesn't work. I have to manually turn off my computer to get out of the BIOS.

IMG_20200803_105428.jpg

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If your monitor doesn't have burn in I recommend doing a bios flash if you have one I recommend using a UPS.

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4 minutes ago, Shisimona said:

I even cleared CMOS

What was your process for doing this? Sorry, but I've seen many times people say that they cleared CMOS, but the methodology they used was flawed.

 

Power down the system. Unplug it from the wall. Press the power button a few times. Remove the motherboard battery and leave it removed from several minutes. Then re-insert it and power on the system.

 

Can you list full specs please?


BabyBlu (Primary Rig): 

  • CPU: Intel Core i9 9900K @ Per Core 5.2Ghz, 5.2Ghz, 5.2Ghz, 5.2Ghz, 5.1Ghz, 5.1Ghz, 5.0Ghz, 5.0Ghz; Cache @ 4.8Ghz; 0 AVX offset
  • Motherboard: Asus Maximus XI Hero
  • RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 4x8GB DDR4-3200 CL14 @ 4000Mhz 16-18-18-36
  • GPU: MSI RTX 2080 Sea Hawk EK X
  • Case: Phanteks Evolv X
  • Storage: 3x ADATA Ultimate SU800 1TB (RAID 0), Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB NVME
  • PSU: Corsair HX1000i
  • Monitor: Dell S2417DG 23.8" 2560x1440 165 Hz Gsync
  • Cooling: Custom water loop (CPU & GPU), Radiators: 1x140mm(Back), 1x280mm(Top), 1x420mm(Front)
  • Keyboard: Corsair Strafe RGB (Cherry MX Brown)
  • Mouse: Corsair Scimitar Elite/MasterMouse MM710
  • Headset: Corsair Void Pro RGB
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

Roxanne (Wife Build):

  • CPU: Intel Core i7 4790K @ Per Core 5.0Ghz - 5.0Ghz - 4.9Ghz - 4.8Ghz, Cache @ 4.6Ghz, De-lidded
  • Motherboard: Asus Z97A
  • RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws X 4x4GB DDR3-2133 CL9 @ 2200Mhz 9-11-10-22
  • PSU: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW2 Gaming ICX
  • Case: Corsair Vengeance C70, With Custom Side-Panel Window
  • Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 250GB, Samsung 860 EVO 1TB
  • PSU: Corsair AX760
  • Monitor: Samsung C27JG56 27" 2560x1440 144Hz Curved Freesync
  • Cooling: Corsair H115i RGB
  • Keyboard: Rosewill RK 9000V2(Cherry MX Blue)
  • Mouse: Glorious Model O-
  • Headset: SteelSeries Arctis 7
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

BlackBox (HTPC):

  • Intel Core i7 6700 slightly under-volted
  • Asus H110T/CSM Thin Mini-ITX
  • G.Skill 1x8GB DDR4-2400 SO-DIMM CL16
  • iGPU
  • Akasa Euler Fanless Solid Aluminum THIN Mini ITX Case (passively cooled)
  • Samsung 850 EVO 250GB
  • External 120W Power Adaptor
  • 4K TV
  • Passively cooled by the Akasa case. No moving parts!
  • Handheld QWERTY keyboard and trackpad.
  • Windows 10 Pro, Kodi autostarts on boot

NAS:

  • Synology DS216J
  • 2x8TB WD Red NAS HDDs in RAID 1. 8TB usable space
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You could try and flash the bios, but it looks pretty bricked to me. 

 

Try a single stick of memory in accordance to suggested slot in the manual. 

Do a good bios clear. Pop the battery 10 minutes but still jump the jumper clear cmos for at least 10 seconds.

 

If the issue still remains present, warranty the board.


PRIME computer INC.
Framingham, MA. USA
Main Frame Cabinet CCD 3081
120/208 Volts @ 60Hz.

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Posted · Original PosterOP
10 minutes ago, HairlessMonkeyBoy said:

What was your process for doing this? Sorry, but I've seen many times people say that they cleared CMOS, but the methodology they used was flawed.

 

Power down the system. Unplug it from the wall. Press the power button a few times. Remove the motherboard battery and leave it removed from several minutes. Then re-insert it and power on the system.

 

Can you list full specs please?

Powered down the system. Unplugged from wall. Pressed power button few times. Removed battery for about 10-15 mins. Jumped the CMOS jumper. The same way I've been clearing the CMOS for roughly 20 years now. As I said, I just never seen anything like this before after clearing CMOS. This pic was taken after the CMOS was cleared.

Ryzen 2600x
ASUS Prime Pro X470
G.Skill Trident Neo 2x16GB 3200MHz 14CL B-Die

EVGA RTX 2070 XC Black Edition
Windows 10
3 Noctua 140mm PPC Industrial 3000 RPM
NH-D15
Seasonic Focus Plus 850watts Gold 

9 minutes ago, ShrimpBrime said:

You could try and flash the bios, but it looks pretty bricked to me. 

 

Try a single stick of memory in accordance to suggested slot in the manual. 

Do a good bios clear. Pop the battery 10 minutes but still jump the jumper clear cmos for at least 10 seconds.

 

If the issue still remains present, warranty the board.

I never had luck flashing this BIOS. It worked once when I flashed to Version 5007 and since them, every BIOS flash has failed. It would get half way through and would auto restart. I even tried talked with ASUS about it and they said they couldn't do anything to help and I was on my own. Last time I tried to flash the BIOS was maybe 4 months ago.

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9 minutes ago, Shisimona said:

<SNIP>clearing CMOS<SNIP>

Thanks for confirming.

 

Sounds like a corrupted BIOS. You can try this from page 3-24 of the manual:

 

Quote

image.png.2d5326a00388ef15d4496261d2465e76.png

 


BabyBlu (Primary Rig): 

  • CPU: Intel Core i9 9900K @ Per Core 5.2Ghz, 5.2Ghz, 5.2Ghz, 5.2Ghz, 5.1Ghz, 5.1Ghz, 5.0Ghz, 5.0Ghz; Cache @ 4.8Ghz; 0 AVX offset
  • Motherboard: Asus Maximus XI Hero
  • RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 4x8GB DDR4-3200 CL14 @ 4000Mhz 16-18-18-36
  • GPU: MSI RTX 2080 Sea Hawk EK X
  • Case: Phanteks Evolv X
  • Storage: 3x ADATA Ultimate SU800 1TB (RAID 0), Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB NVME
  • PSU: Corsair HX1000i
  • Monitor: Dell S2417DG 23.8" 2560x1440 165 Hz Gsync
  • Cooling: Custom water loop (CPU & GPU), Radiators: 1x140mm(Back), 1x280mm(Top), 1x420mm(Front)
  • Keyboard: Corsair Strafe RGB (Cherry MX Brown)
  • Mouse: Corsair Scimitar Elite/MasterMouse MM710
  • Headset: Corsair Void Pro RGB
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

Roxanne (Wife Build):

  • CPU: Intel Core i7 4790K @ Per Core 5.0Ghz - 5.0Ghz - 4.9Ghz - 4.8Ghz, Cache @ 4.6Ghz, De-lidded
  • Motherboard: Asus Z97A
  • RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws X 4x4GB DDR3-2133 CL9 @ 2200Mhz 9-11-10-22
  • PSU: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW2 Gaming ICX
  • Case: Corsair Vengeance C70, With Custom Side-Panel Window
  • Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 250GB, Samsung 860 EVO 1TB
  • PSU: Corsair AX760
  • Monitor: Samsung C27JG56 27" 2560x1440 144Hz Curved Freesync
  • Cooling: Corsair H115i RGB
  • Keyboard: Rosewill RK 9000V2(Cherry MX Blue)
  • Mouse: Glorious Model O-
  • Headset: SteelSeries Arctis 7
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

BlackBox (HTPC):

  • Intel Core i7 6700 slightly under-volted
  • Asus H110T/CSM Thin Mini-ITX
  • G.Skill 1x8GB DDR4-2400 SO-DIMM CL16
  • iGPU
  • Akasa Euler Fanless Solid Aluminum THIN Mini ITX Case (passively cooled)
  • Samsung 850 EVO 250GB
  • External 120W Power Adaptor
  • 4K TV
  • Passively cooled by the Akasa case. No moving parts!
  • Handheld QWERTY keyboard and trackpad.
  • Windows 10 Pro, Kodi autostarts on boot

NAS:

  • Synology DS216J
  • 2x8TB WD Red NAS HDDs in RAID 1. 8TB usable space
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12 minutes ago, Shisimona said:

Powered down the system. Unplugged from wall. Pressed power button few times. Removed battery for about 10-15 mins. Jumped the CMOS jumper. The same way I've been clearing the CMOS for roughly 20 years now. As I said, I just never seen anything like this before after clearing CMOS. This pic was taken after the CMOS was cleared.

Ryzen 2600x
ASUS Prime Pro X470
G.Skill Trident Neo 2x16GB 3200MHz 14CL B-Die

EVGA RTX 2070 XC Black Edition
Windows 10
3 Noctua 140mm PPC Industrial 3000 RPM
NH-D15
Seasonic Focus Plus 850watts Gold 

I never had luck flashing this BIOS. It worked once when I flashed to Version 5007 and since them, every BIOS flash has failed. It would get half way through and would auto restart. I even tried talked with ASUS about it and they said they couldn't do anything to help and I was on my own. Last time I tried to flash the BIOS was maybe 4 months ago.

Asus boards flash really easily. 

 

Warranty the board is my final suggestion, the bios is probably not recoverable.

 

Speaking of bios recovery for a last stitch effort, use the disk that came with the board.

Unplug all SSD and hdd and boot from the disk. There will be a bios recovery that will install the original bios to the board. 

No worries though, the board will support the cpu even on the first bios.

 

Good luck.

 

Was ninja'd!! 

But ya, the post above mine. 


PRIME computer INC.
Framingham, MA. USA
Main Frame Cabinet CCD 3081
120/208 Volts @ 60Hz.

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Posted · Original PosterOP
9 minutes ago, ShrimpBrime said:

Asus boards flash really easily. 

 

Warranty the board is my final suggestion, the bios is probably not recoverable.

 

Speaking of bios recovery for a last stitch effort, use the disk that came with the board.

Unplug all SSD and hdd and boot from the disk. There will be a bios recovery that will install the original bios to the board. 

No worries though, the board will support the cpu even on the first bios.

 

Good luck.

 

Was ninja'd!! 

But ya, the post above mine. 

I never got a disk with my motherboard. But I some how managed to flash my BIOS to the version 5601 which is the latest. But I didn't do it through the BIOS.

 

I hopped on my laptop to see if there is a BIOS update. There is version 5601. So I downloaded it and put the file on my USB stick. I figured why not try this. Who knows it might work.

 

Plugged the USB stick into my PC and started it up. And within 2 secs it asked me if I wanted to flash my BIOS. I wasn't in the BIOS for this command to prompt. I pressed Y to flash. It actually flashed this time. PC restarted. Auto booted into the BIOS and it was like nothing happened. Said Version 5601 at the top. Okay, good. Booted into Windows.

 

But now, after 5 mins of being in Windows, I loose power to all USB slots, video goes black and is non responsive. My computer didn't restart. Did this 3 times in a row.

 

I'm starting to think my motherboard is possibly dying or something else is wrong. 

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Posted · Original PosterOP

Well, I seemed to have fixed it. After it did the freakish weird BIOS flash, my CPU voltage was auto set to 1.0 volts. I set it back to 1.25 volts and my CPU at 4GHz. I don't know what happened but it was not normal at all. With Zen 3 just around the corner, i'll be upgrading anyways. Just need this to chug away til that happens lol. 

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2 hours ago, Shisimona said:

I never got a disk with my motherboard. But I some how managed to flash my BIOS to the version 5601 which is the latest. But I didn't do it through the BIOS.

 

I hopped on my laptop to see if there is a BIOS update. There is version 5601. So I downloaded it and put the file on my USB stick. I figured why not try this. Who knows it might work.

 

Plugged the USB stick into my PC and started it up. And within 2 secs it asked me if I wanted to flash my BIOS. I wasn't in the BIOS for this command to prompt. I pressed Y to flash. It actually flashed this time. PC restarted. Auto booted into the BIOS and it was like nothing happened. Said Version 5601 at the top. Okay, good. Booted into Windows.

 

But now, after 5 mins of being in Windows, I loose power to all USB slots, video goes black and is non responsive. My computer didn't restart. Did this 3 times in a row.

 

I'm starting to think my motherboard is possibly dying or something else is wrong. 

Right, bios flash back in the appropriate usb port. Gotcha. That works too....

 

But I was talking about a recovery, not an update. 

 

But all the same, glad you got it working. :)


PRIME computer INC.
Framingham, MA. USA
Main Frame Cabinet CCD 3081
120/208 Volts @ 60Hz.

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