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takk

Looking for thermal paste with long-term application longevity

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Posted · Original PosterOP

Hello! I've been researching a lot about thermal pastes, and I'm particularly looking for one that I can apply and forget about it, for at least 2 years, without losing too much efficiency. It really doesn't matter if it performs a bit worse than cheaper ones. I'm not an overclocker so I'm ok with exchanging 2-3c for longevity.

 

I've heard only Arctic Silver 5 manages to last that long. Arctic MX-4 claims it lasts 8 years, but I've read reviews of it degrading after only 6-8 months, with a big increase in temperature. It might be because most people buy it from China, and I've read many reviews saying most of the MX-4 from China are fake.

Is there any other brand out there that I could check out?

 

I don't mind if it has a higher price, as long at I don't need to worry about reapplying for a while.

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Most quality thermal pastes should last at least 2 years, just don’t go with a cheap Chinese knockoff. If you are really concerned about longevity and don’t mind the slight decrease in thermal performance, it could be worth it to look into thermal pads instead of thermal paste.

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MX-4

ahem edit (yea don't buy from china)


- If it ain't broken, don't fix it! 

- Your post codes and beep codes in the drop down below.

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Most good ones last way more than 2 years.  Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut/Hydronaut is pretty good.  They are non-curing and non-conductive and are at the top of the charts in terms of thermal performance too.


QUOTE ME IN A REPLY SO I CAN SEE THE NOTIFICATION!

When there is no danger of failure there is no pleasure in success.

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11 minutes ago, takk said:

Hello! I've been researching a lot about thermal pastes, and I'm particularly looking for one that I can apply and forget about it, for at least 2 years, without losing too much efficiency. It really doesn't matter if it performs a bit worse than cheaper ones. I'm not an overclocker so I'm ok with exchanging 2-3c for longevity.

 

I've heard only Arctic Silver 5 manages to last that long. Arctic MX-4 claims it lasts 8 years, but I've read reviews of it degrading after only 6-8 months, with a big increase in temperature. It might be because most people buy it from China, and I've read many reviews saying most of the MX-4 from China are fake.

Is there any other brand out there that I could check out?

 

I don't mind if it has a higher price, as long at I don't need to worry about reapplying for a while.

I have used Arctic silver 5 for most of my PC using years, now I use kryonaut as its "a little better". Realistically, any paste will be fine for a very, very long time. 2 years is nothing to even consider worrying about. Most PC's I have built (over 20) have never had the CPU heatsink taken back off, some are 10+ years old and working fine.


Rig: i9 9900k @ 5Ghz - - Z390 Auros Elite  - - EVGA RTX 2080 XC Ultra @ 2025Mhz - - 4x8GB Vengeance Pro 3000Mhz @ 3600MHz - - Samsung 950 Pro 512 NVMe Boot + Main Programs - - Samsung 830 Pro 256 RAID 0 Lightroom + Photo work - - WD Blue 1 TB SSD for Games - - Corsair RM650i - - Sound BlasterX EA-5 - - EK Supremacy Evo - - XT45 X-Flow 420 + UT60 280 rads - - EK Full Cover GPU Block - - EK XRES RGB PWM - - Fractal Define S2 - - Acer Predator X34 -- Logitech G502 - - Logitech G710+ - - Logitech Z5500 - - Steel Series QcK XXL

 

Headphones/amp/dac: Schiit Lyr 3 - - Fostex TR-X00 - - Sennheiser HD 6xx

 

Homelab/ Media Server: ESXi 6.5 - - 250 GB SSD for VM's/ESXi boot - - FreeNAS 11.3-U2 - - HPE Proliant ML10 Gen 9 backbone - - i3 6100 - - 28 GB ECC - - 10x4 TB WD Red RAID Z2 - - Corsair 750D - - Corsair RM650i - - Dell H310 6Gbps SAS HBA - - Intel RES2SC240 SAS Expander

 

White Lightning (original full watercooled build) - Homelab / Media Server - The Blue Beast (my car and other expensive hobby...) - iPhone Xs - 2018 MacBook Air

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Something non drying and not liquid metal would be my basic take.

 

I like the diamond powder filled paste I bought some years ago.  Might be ICdiamond but I’m not sure. Had extremely small industrial diamonds in it.  It’s non drying but has good conductivity.  Been holding for 5 years so far.  I recently wiggled my cooler a bit and it’s still moving and working good.


Life is like a bowl of chocolates: there are all these little crinkly paper cups everywhere.

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Just now, Bombastinator said:

I like the diamond powder filled paste I bought some years ago.  Might be ICdiamond but I’m not sure. Had extremely small industrial diamonds in it.  It’s non drying but has good conductivity.  Been holding for 5 years so far.  I recently wiggled my cooler a bit and it’s still moving and working good.

I'm using IC diamond on naked cores.

Prefer Antec Formula 7

 

The IC Diamond spreads horribly. It's very thick. Needs some burn in time as well. Not good for chilling if a burn in isn't done first. But, good thermals. 

 


- If it ain't broken, don't fix it! 

- Your post codes and beep codes in the drop down below.

Spoiler

 

 

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1 minute ago, ShrimpBrime said:

I'm using IC diamond on naked cores.

Prefer Antec Formula 7

 

The IC Diamond spreads horribly. It's very thick. Needs some burn in time as well. Not good for chilling if a burn in isn't done first. But, good thermals. 

 

I definitely did not use ICdiamond then.  The stuff I used was not thick.


Life is like a bowl of chocolates: there are all these little crinkly paper cups everywhere.

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Just now, Bombastinator said:

I definitely did not use ICdiamond then.  The stuff I used was not thick.

I don't know the age of my tubes. They could have gotten thick through time. Had 3 of them. Only got a shot left.

 

The Antec Formula 7 is really easy to spread. And I think it actually works better than the IC diamond. However, these are the only 2 diamond pastes I've tried asside from Antec Formula 6 which has almost the same conductivity as the 7. I used this for at least 12 years over, say... 50-75 different cpus at least. A few GPUs as well.


- If it ain't broken, don't fix it! 

- Your post codes and beep codes in the drop down below.

Spoiler

 

 

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2 minutes ago, ShrimpBrime said:

I don't know the age of my tubes. They could have gotten thick through time. Had 3 of them. Only got a shot left.

 

The Antec Formula 7 is really easy to spread. And I think it actually works better than the IC diamond. However, these are the only 2 diamond pastes I've tried asside from Antec Formula 6 which has almost the same conductivity as the 7. I used this for at least 12 years over, say... 50-75 different cpus at least. A few GPUs as well.

Antec formula 7 is also a diamond filled paste? What I mostly remember shopping was at the time one could pick the size of the diamonds and their percentage of content.  I looked for the smallest ones with the highest percentage content I could find.  The stuff was not especially cheap iirc.


Life is like a bowl of chocolates: there are all these little crinkly paper cups everywhere.

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4 minutes ago, Bombastinator said:

Antec formula 7 is also a diamond filled paste?

Yep, that's a diamond nano paste. 

The only issue with diamond pastes, when you wipe the paste off the IHS plate, it removes the laser etching from the IHS plate. It's like a super fine grit sand paper lol. That's why a lot of people don't like it.

 

But, diamond is the best thermal conductor on the planet. Why would you not use it?


- If it ain't broken, don't fix it! 

- Your post codes and beep codes in the drop down below.

Spoiler

 

 

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I'm using whatever Cryorig included in their cooler and it's going in three years now with no problems.

 

I think people mess with them more often than the really need to.


My System: i7-8700k 5.0ghz All-core delidded @1.375v // Cryorig H7 Quad Lumi // Gigabyte Aorus Z370 Gaming 5 // 32GB (4x8) Corsair Vengeance DDR4 3200 // XFX Radeon RX 5700 XT RAW II // Corsair 275R Airflow // Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 850w // Intel 660P 1TB NVME M.2 SSD/1TB Samsung 860 EVO/512GB Silicon Power A55/1TB 2.5" HGST HDD/2TB Seagate Barracuda // Displays: AOC AGON AG241QX/Lenovo L24Q-30/Lenovo L24Q-30 // Razer Black Widow TE Chroma - Logitech G502 // Corsair H70 Gaming Headset

 

Wife's System: i7-8700 // Arctic Freezer 33 // Gigabyte Z390M Gaming // 16GB (2x8) Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 3200 // Sapphire Vega 64 // NZXT S340 // Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 850w // 1TB Samsung 860 EVO/4TB Western Digital HDD // Displays: ASUS VG248QE/ASUS VG245H/ASUS VP248Q // Corsair K68 Mechanical Keyboard // Logitech G602 // LG BDRW // NexStar 5.25" USB 3 Enclosure

 

TV Gamer: Ryzen 5 1600 3.9ghz All-core @1.39v // Wraith PRISM // Gigabyte B450 Aorus M // 16GB (2x8) Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 3200 // XFX Radeon RX 580 8GB XXX Edition // Thermaltake Versa H17 // Corsair Vengeance Silver 650W // 120GB Sandisk SSD/120GB PNY CS900/4TB Western Digital Blue // Display: 50" Westinghouse 1080p // Rii Wireless Mini Keyboard w/Touchpad/Xbox One Controllers

 

Son's System: i5-9400 // Cryorig H7 Quad Lumi // ASRock Z370 Extreme 4 // 16GB GeIL Potenza DDR 3200 // ASUS RX 570 4GB OC // NZXT S340 Black // Seasonic S12II 620w Bronze // 525GB Crucial MX300/500GB Wester Digital Blue // Display: Dell P2417H - Eagletech KG010 Mechanical Keyboard // Logitech G203

 

Daughter's System: i3-8350k // Cooler Master i71c // MSI H310M Pro VDH-Plus // 16GB T-Force Vulkan 2666 (2400) // Zotac GTX 1060 3GB Mini // DarkFlash Micro ATX White // Corsair CX550 // 480GB PNY CS1311 SSD // Display: Scepter 20" 1080p - Logitech Keyboard and Mouse

 

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1 minute ago, Mister Woof said:

I'm using whatever Cryorig included in their cooler and it's going in three years now with no problems.

 

I think people mess with them more often than the really need to.

Some pastes need to be messed with regularly.  Like liquid metal.  Only one reason I won’t use it.  I’d rather have a pure indium sheet and put up with ultra scary pressure requirements.


Life is like a bowl of chocolates: there are all these little crinkly paper cups everywhere.

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3 minutes ago, Mister Woof said:

I'm using whatever Cryorig included in their cooler and it's going in three years now with no problems.

 

I think people mess with them more often than the really need to.

Probably one of the CP series of pastes from the looks of it.


- If it ain't broken, don't fix it! 

- Your post codes and beep codes in the drop down below.

Spoiler

 

 

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2 minutes ago, Bombastinator said:

Some pastes need to be messed with regularly.  Like liquid metal.  Only one reason I won’t use it.  I’d rather have a pure indium sheet and put up with ultra scary pressure requirements.

I have no interest in trying liquid metal.

Watching people de-lid soldered chips, then using LM. 

First the solder is a complete bond and transfers thermals better.

The only reason I ever did a de-lid was to run direct die cooling.

For the most part, up till Zen, had potential to gain 100mhz from drop in temps.

But a re-lid for an Intel chip, like 8700K, LM under the lid is a great replacement. 


- If it ain't broken, don't fix it! 

- Your post codes and beep codes in the drop down below.

Spoiler

 

 

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12 minutes ago, Bombastinator said:

Some pastes need to be messed with regularly.  Like liquid metal.  Only one reason I won’t use it.  I’d rather have a pure indium sheet and put up with ultra scary pressure requirements.

Going on three years on my application of conductonaut, too.


My System: i7-8700k 5.0ghz All-core delidded @1.375v // Cryorig H7 Quad Lumi // Gigabyte Aorus Z370 Gaming 5 // 32GB (4x8) Corsair Vengeance DDR4 3200 // XFX Radeon RX 5700 XT RAW II // Corsair 275R Airflow // Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 850w // Intel 660P 1TB NVME M.2 SSD/1TB Samsung 860 EVO/512GB Silicon Power A55/1TB 2.5" HGST HDD/2TB Seagate Barracuda // Displays: AOC AGON AG241QX/Lenovo L24Q-30/Lenovo L24Q-30 // Razer Black Widow TE Chroma - Logitech G502 // Corsair H70 Gaming Headset

 

Wife's System: i7-8700 // Arctic Freezer 33 // Gigabyte Z390M Gaming // 16GB (2x8) Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 3200 // Sapphire Vega 64 // NZXT S340 // Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 850w // 1TB Samsung 860 EVO/4TB Western Digital HDD // Displays: ASUS VG248QE/ASUS VG245H/ASUS VP248Q // Corsair K68 Mechanical Keyboard // Logitech G602 // LG BDRW // NexStar 5.25" USB 3 Enclosure

 

TV Gamer: Ryzen 5 1600 3.9ghz All-core @1.39v // Wraith PRISM // Gigabyte B450 Aorus M // 16GB (2x8) Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 3200 // XFX Radeon RX 580 8GB XXX Edition // Thermaltake Versa H17 // Corsair Vengeance Silver 650W // 120GB Sandisk SSD/120GB PNY CS900/4TB Western Digital Blue // Display: 50" Westinghouse 1080p // Rii Wireless Mini Keyboard w/Touchpad/Xbox One Controllers

 

Son's System: i5-9400 // Cryorig H7 Quad Lumi // ASRock Z370 Extreme 4 // 16GB GeIL Potenza DDR 3200 // ASUS RX 570 4GB OC // NZXT S340 Black // Seasonic S12II 620w Bronze // 525GB Crucial MX300/500GB Wester Digital Blue // Display: Dell P2417H - Eagletech KG010 Mechanical Keyboard // Logitech G203

 

Daughter's System: i3-8350k // Cooler Master i71c // MSI H310M Pro VDH-Plus // 16GB T-Force Vulkan 2666 (2400) // Zotac GTX 1060 3GB Mini // DarkFlash Micro ATX White // Corsair CX550 // 480GB PNY CS1311 SSD // Display: Scepter 20" 1080p - Logitech Keyboard and Mouse

 

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Posted · Original PosterOP
43 minutes ago, LIGISTX said:

I have used Arctic silver 5 for most of my PC using years, now I use kryonaut as its "a little better". Realistically, any paste will be fine for a very, very long time. 2 years is nothing to even consider worrying about. Most PC's I have built (over 20) have never had the CPU heatsink taken back off, some are 10+ years old and working fine.

 

47 minutes ago, The_russian said:

Most quality thermal pastes should last at least 2 years, just don’t go with a cheap Chinese knockoff. If you are really concerned about longevity and don’t mind the slight decrease in thermal performance, it could be worth it to look into thermal pads instead of thermal paste.

 

Thank you! 

Before researching, I bought a very cheap HY810, its not a knock-off, but it is a chinese thermal paste. The reason for it is that all I could find about it was about performance, and it performed well. Also I could throw in my purchase over US$30 to get free shipping and it was pretty cheap. 


I'm with stock thermal paste on a Ryzen 2700X for about a year and a half, getting at most 65c while gaming (even tho it reaches 85c on Aida64). I'm just worried that I might get a better performance with this cheap one for the first couple of months and then start to feel worse after that than what I have right now.


Should be worth to try it or it should degrade pretty best and I should just get a better one?

In that case I'll look into a Kryonaut, Arctic Silver 5 or an original MX-4. Thermal pads looks nice as well, I'll do some research about it!

Thanks a lot again for all the replies! I'll follow the discussion.

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It won't magically just die one day because it gets hot. Even if it did overheat, it would throttle and give you some indication of problems. And then at that point you can reexamine your paste or cooler.

 

I would not really worry about it, IMO.


My System: i7-8700k 5.0ghz All-core delidded @1.375v // Cryorig H7 Quad Lumi // Gigabyte Aorus Z370 Gaming 5 // 32GB (4x8) Corsair Vengeance DDR4 3200 // XFX Radeon RX 5700 XT RAW II // Corsair 275R Airflow // Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 850w // Intel 660P 1TB NVME M.2 SSD/1TB Samsung 860 EVO/512GB Silicon Power A55/1TB 2.5" HGST HDD/2TB Seagate Barracuda // Displays: AOC AGON AG241QX/Lenovo L24Q-30/Lenovo L24Q-30 // Razer Black Widow TE Chroma - Logitech G502 // Corsair H70 Gaming Headset

 

Wife's System: i7-8700 // Arctic Freezer 33 // Gigabyte Z390M Gaming // 16GB (2x8) Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 3200 // Sapphire Vega 64 // NZXT S340 // Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 850w // 1TB Samsung 860 EVO/4TB Western Digital HDD // Displays: ASUS VG248QE/ASUS VG245H/ASUS VP248Q // Corsair K68 Mechanical Keyboard // Logitech G602 // LG BDRW // NexStar 5.25" USB 3 Enclosure

 

TV Gamer: Ryzen 5 1600 3.9ghz All-core @1.39v // Wraith PRISM // Gigabyte B450 Aorus M // 16GB (2x8) Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 3200 // XFX Radeon RX 580 8GB XXX Edition // Thermaltake Versa H17 // Corsair Vengeance Silver 650W // 120GB Sandisk SSD/120GB PNY CS900/4TB Western Digital Blue // Display: 50" Westinghouse 1080p // Rii Wireless Mini Keyboard w/Touchpad/Xbox One Controllers

 

Son's System: i5-9400 // Cryorig H7 Quad Lumi // ASRock Z370 Extreme 4 // 16GB GeIL Potenza DDR 3200 // ASUS RX 570 4GB OC // NZXT S340 Black // Seasonic S12II 620w Bronze // 525GB Crucial MX300/500GB Wester Digital Blue // Display: Dell P2417H - Eagletech KG010 Mechanical Keyboard // Logitech G203

 

Daughter's System: i3-8350k // Cooler Master i71c // MSI H310M Pro VDH-Plus // 16GB T-Force Vulkan 2666 (2400) // Zotac GTX 1060 3GB Mini // DarkFlash Micro ATX White // Corsair CX550 // 480GB PNY CS1311 SSD // Display: Scepter 20" 1080p - Logitech Keyboard and Mouse

 

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48 minutes ago, takk said:

 

 

Thank you! 

Before researching, I bought a very cheap HY810, its not a knock-off, but it is a chinese thermal paste. The reason for it is that all I could find about it was about performance, and it performed well. Also I could throw in my purchase over US$30 to get free shipping and it was pretty cheap. 


I'm with stock thermal paste on a Ryzen 2700X for about a year and a half, getting at most 65c while gaming (even tho it reaches 85c on Aida64). I'm just worried that I might get a better performance with this cheap one for the first couple of months and then start to feel worse after that than what I have right now.


Should be worth to try it or it should degrade pretty best and I should just get a better one?

In that case I'll look into a Kryonaut, Arctic Silver 5 or an original MX-4. Thermal pads looks nice as well, I'll do some research about it!

Thanks a lot again for all the replies! I'll follow the discussion.

I would just use the stock paste on a stock cooler. They actually use pretty good stuff... Just go with that. AMD expects the CPU to last 10 years no problem, so just let it be :)


Rig: i9 9900k @ 5Ghz - - Z390 Auros Elite  - - EVGA RTX 2080 XC Ultra @ 2025Mhz - - 4x8GB Vengeance Pro 3000Mhz @ 3600MHz - - Samsung 950 Pro 512 NVMe Boot + Main Programs - - Samsung 830 Pro 256 RAID 0 Lightroom + Photo work - - WD Blue 1 TB SSD for Games - - Corsair RM650i - - Sound BlasterX EA-5 - - EK Supremacy Evo - - XT45 X-Flow 420 + UT60 280 rads - - EK Full Cover GPU Block - - EK XRES RGB PWM - - Fractal Define S2 - - Acer Predator X34 -- Logitech G502 - - Logitech G710+ - - Logitech Z5500 - - Steel Series QcK XXL

 

Headphones/amp/dac: Schiit Lyr 3 - - Fostex TR-X00 - - Sennheiser HD 6xx

 

Homelab/ Media Server: ESXi 6.5 - - 250 GB SSD for VM's/ESXi boot - - FreeNAS 11.3-U2 - - HPE Proliant ML10 Gen 9 backbone - - i3 6100 - - 28 GB ECC - - 10x4 TB WD Red RAID Z2 - - Corsair 750D - - Corsair RM650i - - Dell H310 6Gbps SAS HBA - - Intel RES2SC240 SAS Expander

 

White Lightning (original full watercooled build) - Homelab / Media Server - The Blue Beast (my car and other expensive hobby...) - iPhone Xs - 2018 MacBook Air

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Posted · Original PosterOP
2 hours ago, Samfisher said:

Most good ones last way more than 2 years.  Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut/Hydronaut is pretty good.  They are non-curing and non-conductive and are at the top of the charts in terms of thermal performance too.

Thank you a lot! One last question, would you consider the OCX by Gelid 1g a "good one"?

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2 minutes ago, takk said:

Thank you a lot! One last question, would you consider the OCX by Gelid 1g a "good one"?

Gelid makes pretty good pastes as well, although I don't think they are marketed nearly as well as their competitors.  It's been years and years since I saw that brand on a thermal paste chart, mostly because they're not as popular as they were back then when everyone was replacing their stock GPU coolers for something from Gelid.  Not too sure specifically on the OCX however.


QUOTE ME IN A REPLY SO I CAN SEE THE NOTIFICATION!

When there is no danger of failure there is no pleasure in success.

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4 minutes ago, takk said:

.

For performance it's kryonaut hands down, for longevity mx4 lasts longer, if you don't wanna repaste at all, get carbonaut, but it's 5-8C hotter than good paste. Those are just the stuff that i've used, along with AS5 (no reason to use it over MX4 now)


9900k 1.32v max 1.26v avx 5.1ghz-1avx 4.8 cache 95C 175w 1.05v 4.4ghz 95w 55C R20/blender temps ll D15 ll Z390 taichi ult 1.60 bios ll gskill 2x8gb 16-16-16-34-280-24 ddr3866  bdie 1.42v dram 1.22v io/sa (anything higher needs more voltage on all (dram/io/sa) ll EVGA 2080 ti XC 1995//7600 power limited 79C max, stock voltage (bad ocer) ll 2x samsung 860 evo 500gb raid 0 ll 500gb nvme 970 evo ll Corsair graphite 780T ll EVGA G2 1300w ll Windows 10 Pro ll NEC PA272w (movie, work mon) 2k60 14bit lut ll Predator X27 4k144 hdr (using at 4:4:4 98)

 

old rig 8600k d15 evga 1080 ti hybrid  z370 extreme 4 2x8gb ddr3000 512gb nvme evo+ 860 evo 500gb raid 0 evga p2 1000w 

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2 hours ago, Mister Woof said:

Going on three years on my application of conductonaut, too.

The problem is liquid metal is indium and gallium. gallium Oxidizes easily and gallium oxide is nasty stuff.   Leaving it on for three years doesn’t mean it hasn’t done damage.  Perhaps your application kept all the oxygen out somehow.  Probably didn’t though.


https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gallium


Life is like a bowl of chocolates: there are all these little crinkly paper cups everywhere.

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5 hours ago, Bombastinator said:

The problem is liquid metal is indium and gallium. gallium Oxidizes easily and gallium oxide is nasty stuff.   Leaving it on for three years doesn’t mean it hasn’t done damage.  Perhaps your application kept all the oxygen out somehow.  Probably didn’t though.


https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gallium

Maybe that will finally be a reason to upgrade from this thing.

 

Performance on new CPUs certainly hasn't.

 

In all seriousness, most of the videos I've seen of long-term LM applications shows some corrosion of the IHS, but the die remains shiny and unchanged.

 

So at worst it means over time a new IHS might be needed if transfer suffers from the corrosion. Otherwise, back to to point 1. Maybe I'll get an upgrade finally.

 

Given all the new CPUs from both manufacturers are soldered now, and likely future iterations will be less successful to overclock, this is mostly a one time deal for me anyway. Very unlikely I'll ever delid anything ever again.


My System: i7-8700k 5.0ghz All-core delidded @1.375v // Cryorig H7 Quad Lumi // Gigabyte Aorus Z370 Gaming 5 // 32GB (4x8) Corsair Vengeance DDR4 3200 // XFX Radeon RX 5700 XT RAW II // Corsair 275R Airflow // Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 850w // Intel 660P 1TB NVME M.2 SSD/1TB Samsung 860 EVO/512GB Silicon Power A55/1TB 2.5" HGST HDD/2TB Seagate Barracuda // Displays: AOC AGON AG241QX/Lenovo L24Q-30/Lenovo L24Q-30 // Razer Black Widow TE Chroma - Logitech G502 // Corsair H70 Gaming Headset

 

Wife's System: i7-8700 // Arctic Freezer 33 // Gigabyte Z390M Gaming // 16GB (2x8) Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 3200 // Sapphire Vega 64 // NZXT S340 // Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 850w // 1TB Samsung 860 EVO/4TB Western Digital HDD // Displays: ASUS VG248QE/ASUS VG245H/ASUS VP248Q // Corsair K68 Mechanical Keyboard // Logitech G602 // LG BDRW // NexStar 5.25" USB 3 Enclosure

 

TV Gamer: Ryzen 5 1600 3.9ghz All-core @1.39v // Wraith PRISM // Gigabyte B450 Aorus M // 16GB (2x8) Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 3200 // XFX Radeon RX 580 8GB XXX Edition // Thermaltake Versa H17 // Corsair Vengeance Silver 650W // 120GB Sandisk SSD/120GB PNY CS900/4TB Western Digital Blue // Display: 50" Westinghouse 1080p // Rii Wireless Mini Keyboard w/Touchpad/Xbox One Controllers

 

Son's System: i5-9400 // Cryorig H7 Quad Lumi // ASRock Z370 Extreme 4 // 16GB GeIL Potenza DDR 3200 // ASUS RX 570 4GB OC // NZXT S340 Black // Seasonic S12II 620w Bronze // 525GB Crucial MX300/500GB Wester Digital Blue // Display: Dell P2417H - Eagletech KG010 Mechanical Keyboard // Logitech G203

 

Daughter's System: i3-8350k // Cooler Master i71c // MSI H310M Pro VDH-Plus // 16GB T-Force Vulkan 2666 (2400) // Zotac GTX 1060 3GB Mini // DarkFlash Micro ATX White // Corsair CX550 // 480GB PNY CS1311 SSD // Display: Scepter 20" 1080p - Logitech Keyboard and Mouse

 

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1 hour ago, Mister Woof said:

Maybe that will finally be a reason to upgrade from this thing.

 

Performance on new CPUs certainly hasn't.

 

In all seriousness, most of the videos I've seen of long-term LM applications shows some corrosion of the IHS, but the die remains shiny and unchanged.

 

So at worst it means over time a new IHS might be needed if transfer suffers from the corrosion. Otherwise, back to to point 1. Maybe I'll get an upgrade finally.

 

Given all the new CPUs from both manufacturers are soldered now, and likely future iterations will be less successful to overclock, this is mostly a one time deal for me anyway. Very unlikely I'll ever delid anything ever again.

Gallium only corrodes some substances iirc. Silicon apparently isn’t one of them.  


Life is like a bowl of chocolates: there are all these little crinkly paper cups everywhere.

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