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The Mule Man

i might have ruined my power supply, and maybe my whole computer

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Posted · Original PosterOP

i was trying to figure out what power supply i had so i looked at the back of my computer, i saw a switch that said 220v, i assumed that

the v was a cut off w as in wats, so i tried to move the switch to see and i accidentally switched from 220v to 110v, then the lights in my room truned off, after bringing power back to my room i switched back to 220v but now my computer wont turn on.

i need my computer for school,is there any way to fix it without getting a new power supply?

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I do not believe it's possible for a power supply to survive that.


I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

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Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

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Nope, it's dead, and I wouldn't suggest opening it up and trying anything funny since you can electrocute yourself really badly since capacitors do remain charged, plus you may set the power supply on fire.

You do need to buy a new one, they usually cost from 40-50$ for a good quality unit. Like don't buy a 15-20$ firecracker PSU, it'll just destroy your system.

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Nope - It's toast and I hope the rest didn't buy it either.
 

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Posted · Original PosterOP
9 minutes ago, AndreiArgeanu said:

Nope, it's dead, and I wouldn't suggest opening it up and trying anything funny since you can electrocute yourself really badly since capacitors do remain charged, plus you may set the power supply on fire.

You do need to buy a new one, they usually cost from 40-50$ for a good quality unit. Like don't buy a 15-20$ firecracker PSU, it'll just destroy your system.

ok, thanks

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4 minutes ago, The Mule Man said:

ok, thanks

For reference, you will likely be buying a PSU to replace it that does not have a voltage switch, most are designed to automatically work with whatever voltage they're getting from the wall.


I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k (won) - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Kill Trident Z RGB - Force MP500 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - The venerated Hyper 212 Evo (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G2 650W - Black and green theme, Razer branwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

Linux Proliant ML150 G6:

Dual Xeon X5560 - 24GB ECC DDR3 - GTX 750 TI - old Seagate 1.5TB HDD - Dark moded Ubuntu (and Win7, cuz why not)

 

How many watts do I need? Seasonic Focus threadUserbenchmark (Et al.) is trash explained, PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

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11 minutes ago, Fasauceome said:

For reference, you will likely be buying a PSU to replace it that does not have a voltage switch, most are designed to automatically work with whatever voltage they're getting from the wall.

Granted I haven't bought a PSU recently but not that long ago almost every single PSU came with a switch for the input voltage - they were designed for both, but you needed to manually switch between them.

 

I'm sure some would accept the entire range though (Eg: 108-220V or something similar) without a switch.

 

To the OP, the V stands for Volts - that's what input voltage your wall is using - you found out the hard way what happens when you use the wrong one.

 

Technically there might just be a burnt fuse inside - but you have proven that you don't have the knowledge necessary to safely disassemble and potentially repair the existing PSU, so you need to recycle your current PSU and buy a new one.


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