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berberries

What could cause a psu to shoot literal sparks out the back

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Posted · Original PosterOP

This isn't some cheap PSU either, it's a Corsair RM850x bought in May 2019. Barely a year old.

 

It's still under warranty, so I'm going to try get it replaced in the next week or so. But I'm just curious on what could cause this catastrophic failure.


I was playing American Truck Simulator (I'm tryna grind all the achievements because why not, I have nothing better to do at home) and just had a youtube video playing in the background. Monitors just turned black and pc shut off as if someone pulled the plug off the PC. Then when it tried to start itself up again (within a second) a couple of sparks shot out the back of the psu and i quickly switched off the psu switch and pulled the plug out the back. Computer was also sitting on the table and filters were cleaned regularly (just last week it was cleaned too)

 

Main specs are an i9-9900k (I know, I bought it before Ryzen 3rd gen performance numbers were even rumored) and an RTX 2080 SUPER. Full specs are in my signature under "Main Rig - Hana".

 

I have already pulled out the PSU and popped in another RM850x from my other build, and the pc booted up like nothing ever happened.

 

This is completely out of curiosity. I don't intend to try repair the PSU myself or anything, but what could have caused it to happen?


Main Rig - Hana: CPU: Intel® Core™ i9-9900K Processor  /// Motherboard: Gigabyte Z390 Aorus Ultra /// CPU Cooler: Deepcool GamerStorm Castle 360 RGB V2 /// GPU: Gigabyte AORUS GeForce® RTX 2080 SUPER™ 8G /// RAM: G.SKILL TridentZ RGB 64GB (4x16GB) 3200Mhz CL16 /// Chassis: Fractal Design Define R6 USB-C Blackout TG /// PSU: Corsair RM850i /// Storage: 500GB Samsung 970 EVO Plus NVMe (boot) + 512GB WD SN520 NVMe (Working Drive) + 2x 1TB Samsung 850 EVO 2.5" SATA SSD RAID0 (Game Library) + 2TB Seagate BarraCuda (Backup) /// OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Peripherals (Main Rig - Hana): Mouse: Logitech G603 Lightspeed /// Keyboard: Logitech G613 Wireless Mechanical Gaming Keyboard /// Tablet: Wacom Intuos M BT /// Monitor: 3x LG 27UL500-W (4K IPS Freesync) + Dell Ultrasharp U2312HM /// DAC: Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 /// Speakers: Logitech Z625 /// Mic: Focusrite CM25 MkII /// Headphones: Audio-Technica ATH-M50x /// Racing Wheel: Logitech G920 Driving Force with Shifter /// Eye Tracker: Steelseries Sentry /// Printer: Canon imageCLASS MF635Cx /// External Drives: 500GB Samsung T5 SSD (Working Drive) + 1TB Seagate Backup Plus (Small Backups) + 500GB Seagate FreeAgent® GoFlexTM (Just for the GoFlex Sata adapter tbh)

 

HTPC/Render Machine - Ryzen: CPU: AMD Ryzen™ 7 2700X Processor /// Motherboard: ASRock B450 Steel Legend /// CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i PRO RGB /// GPU: MSI GTX 1070 GAMING X 8G /// RAM: G.SKILL TridentZ RGB 32GB (2x16GB) 3000Mhz CL16 @ 3000 CL15 /// Chassis: Fractal Design Meshify C Dark TG /// PSU: Corsair RM850x /// Storage: 500GB Samsung 860 EVO M.2 SATA SSD (boot) + 250GB Samsung 840 EVO /// OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Peripherals (HTPC/Render Machine - Ryzen): Mouse: Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum /// Keyboards: CoolerMaster MasterKeys Pro L RGB - MX Blue, Logitech Wireless Touch Keyboard K400 Plus /// Monitor: Philips 42PFL4208 (42" 1080p TV) /// Speakers: Sonos Beam (Black)

 

Home Server - NASty: CPU: AMD Ryzen™ 5 2600 Processor /// Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK  /// CPU Cooler: AMD Wraith Prism /// GPU: Palit GTX 1050 StormX 2G /// RAM: Corsair Vengeance RGB 16GB (2x8GB) 3000Mhz CL15 /// Chassis: Fractal Design Define R5 Window /// PSU: Corsair RM750x /// Storage: 6x 4TB Seagate Exos Enterprise Drive + 3TB Seagate BarraCuda  /// OS: UNRaid

 

Laptop (Asus UX430UN): CPU: Intel® Core™ i7-8550U Processor  /// Motherboard: Asus UX430UN /// CPU Cooler: Asus UX430UN /// GPU: NVIDIA GeForce MX150 /// RAM: 16GB (2x8GB) 2133Mhz /// Chassis: Asus UX430UN /// PSU: Asus ADP-65GD B AC Adapter /// Storage: 512GB SanDisk SD8SN8U512G1002 (boot) /// OS: Windows 10 Home

 

Other Tech: Console: Xbox One S 1TB /// Phone: Apple iPhone XS Max 256GB Space Grey (Daily Driver)  /// Tablet: Apple iPad 9.7-inch Wi-Fi (2018) 32GB + Apple Pencil (1st Generation) /// Headphones: Sony WF-1000XM3 (Daily Driver), Sony WH-1000XM3

 

Cameras: Bodies: Canon EOS-1D X, Canon EOS 5D Mark IV,  Sony A6000 /// Lenses: Canon EF 24-70mm F/2.8L USM, Canon EF 16-35mm F/2.8L II USM, Canon EF 70-200mm F/2.8L IS II USM, Sony SEL-P1650 E 16-50mm F3.5-5.6 PZ OSS /// Flashes: 2x Canon Speedlite 580EXII /// Tripods: Leofoto LS-324C Carbon Fiber Tripod + Leofoto LH-40 Ballhead, Leofoto MC-80 Multipurpose Clamp /// Yes, I am a Canon Fanboy, deal with it

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Maybe the insulation failed, from what I understand sparks are just electrical discharge through the air, which shouldn't happen if it is properly insulated.

 

If you wanna know more I found this video, at some point they said it's often an overloaded mosfet: 

 

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24 minutes ago, berberries said:

This isn't some cheap PSU either, it's a Corsair RM850x bought in May 2019. Barely a year old.

 

It's still under warranty, so I'm going to try get it replaced in the next week or so. But I'm just curious on what could cause this catastrophic failure.


I was playing American Truck Simulator (I'm tryna grind all the achievements because why not, I have nothing better to do at home) and just had a youtube video playing in the background. Monitors just turned black and pc shut off as if someone pulled the plug off the PC. Then when it tried to start itself up again (within a second) a couple of sparks shot out the back of the psu and i quickly switched off the psu switch and pulled the plug out the back. Computer was also sitting on the table and filters were cleaned regularly (just last week it was cleaned too)

 

Main specs are an i9-9900k (I know, I bought it before Ryzen 3rd gen performance numbers were even rumored) and an RTX 2080 SUPER. Full specs are in my signature under "Main Rig - Hana".

 

I have already pulled out the PSU and popped in another RM850x from my other build, and the pc booted up like nothing ever happened.

 

This is completely out of curiosity. I don't intend to try repair the PSU myself or anything, but what could have caused it to happen?

Off hand, it probably pulled too much power and something melted, when the psu was turned on again, the melt causes a short.

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Just wondering, did you regularly cut power to the PSU? Either by using the switch on the back of the PSU, or by e.g. turning off an extension cord that the PSU was plugged into. 


 

Quote

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I think the hoomans put their builds here?

Why do you hoomans give your builds a name? Here's my build, which I shall call "Do as I Say, Not As I Do" (seriously, don't get this build)

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Ryzen 1500X @3,925 GHz

Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo + 2x ML120

MSI B350 Tomahawk Arctic

2x8GB Corsair Vengeance LPX 3000 MHz CL15 (Micron B-die) @2933 MHz

Sapphire Radeon R9 280 Dual-X @1120 MHz / 1450 MHz

120GB 850 Evo

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500GB WD Blue

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Seasonic Prime Titanium 650W

Logitech G710 with Kailh Box Jade

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And my laptop, which I shall call "If It's Stupid But It Works" (It can actually play CS:GO at 50 FPS, and Civ V at 25 FPS)

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4GB (probably) DDR4 2133 MHz

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128GB Samsung MZ7LF128HCHP

Corsair M65 Pro RGB (worst mouse I've ever had)

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And here would be where I would put a picture of my cat. But apparently, images are not allowed here. So take this instead (*ΦωΦ*)

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The little elves that work inside it (850 of them in your case, one for each watt) have learned how to mass produce firearms and have started a revolution. That's why it's important not to get much more wattage than necessary. Any down time the elves have is time they can use for plotting and inventing.


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Posted · Original PosterOP
11 minutes ago, merco said:

Maybe the insulation failed, from what I understand sparks are just electrical discharge through the air, which shouldn't happen if it is properly insulated.

 

5 minutes ago, Kisai said:

Off hand, it probably pulled too much power and something melted, when the psu was turned on again, the melt causes a short.

I see, thanks for the insight

 

1 minute ago, seon123 said:

Just wondering, did you regularly cut power to the PSU? Either by using the switch on the back of the PSU, or by e.g. turning off an extension cord that the PSU was plugged into. 

Nope, I just shut it down through windows and leave it as is, the switch is only turned off when I'm replacing hardware or cleaning every 2 months or so. Extension cord side I don't ever turn it off.

 

2 minutes ago, JoostinOnline said:

The little elves that work inside it (850 of them in your case, one for each watt) have learned how to mass produce firearms and have started a revolution. That's why it's important not to get much more wattage than necessary. Any down time the elves have is time they can use for plotting and inventing.

I understand my system full load will draw roughly 500W max, maybe a little more. But the 650w wasn't in stock and the 850w was 20SGD (13USD) more than the 750w. So it just kinda made sense to get the 850w.


Main Rig - Hana: CPU: Intel® Core™ i9-9900K Processor  /// Motherboard: Gigabyte Z390 Aorus Ultra /// CPU Cooler: Deepcool GamerStorm Castle 360 RGB V2 /// GPU: Gigabyte AORUS GeForce® RTX 2080 SUPER™ 8G /// RAM: G.SKILL TridentZ RGB 64GB (4x16GB) 3200Mhz CL16 /// Chassis: Fractal Design Define R6 USB-C Blackout TG /// PSU: Corsair RM850i /// Storage: 500GB Samsung 970 EVO Plus NVMe (boot) + 512GB WD SN520 NVMe (Working Drive) + 2x 1TB Samsung 850 EVO 2.5" SATA SSD RAID0 (Game Library) + 2TB Seagate BarraCuda (Backup) /// OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Peripherals (Main Rig - Hana): Mouse: Logitech G603 Lightspeed /// Keyboard: Logitech G613 Wireless Mechanical Gaming Keyboard /// Tablet: Wacom Intuos M BT /// Monitor: 3x LG 27UL500-W (4K IPS Freesync) + Dell Ultrasharp U2312HM /// DAC: Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 /// Speakers: Logitech Z625 /// Mic: Focusrite CM25 MkII /// Headphones: Audio-Technica ATH-M50x /// Racing Wheel: Logitech G920 Driving Force with Shifter /// Eye Tracker: Steelseries Sentry /// Printer: Canon imageCLASS MF635Cx /// External Drives: 500GB Samsung T5 SSD (Working Drive) + 1TB Seagate Backup Plus (Small Backups) + 500GB Seagate FreeAgent® GoFlexTM (Just for the GoFlex Sata adapter tbh)

 

HTPC/Render Machine - Ryzen: CPU: AMD Ryzen™ 7 2700X Processor /// Motherboard: ASRock B450 Steel Legend /// CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i PRO RGB /// GPU: MSI GTX 1070 GAMING X 8G /// RAM: G.SKILL TridentZ RGB 32GB (2x16GB) 3000Mhz CL16 @ 3000 CL15 /// Chassis: Fractal Design Meshify C Dark TG /// PSU: Corsair RM850x /// Storage: 500GB Samsung 860 EVO M.2 SATA SSD (boot) + 250GB Samsung 840 EVO /// OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Peripherals (HTPC/Render Machine - Ryzen): Mouse: Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum /// Keyboards: CoolerMaster MasterKeys Pro L RGB - MX Blue, Logitech Wireless Touch Keyboard K400 Plus /// Monitor: Philips 42PFL4208 (42" 1080p TV) /// Speakers: Sonos Beam (Black)

 

Home Server - NASty: CPU: AMD Ryzen™ 5 2600 Processor /// Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK  /// CPU Cooler: AMD Wraith Prism /// GPU: Palit GTX 1050 StormX 2G /// RAM: Corsair Vengeance RGB 16GB (2x8GB) 3000Mhz CL15 /// Chassis: Fractal Design Define R5 Window /// PSU: Corsair RM750x /// Storage: 6x 4TB Seagate Exos Enterprise Drive + 3TB Seagate BarraCuda  /// OS: UNRaid

 

Laptop (Asus UX430UN): CPU: Intel® Core™ i7-8550U Processor  /// Motherboard: Asus UX430UN /// CPU Cooler: Asus UX430UN /// GPU: NVIDIA GeForce MX150 /// RAM: 16GB (2x8GB) 2133Mhz /// Chassis: Asus UX430UN /// PSU: Asus ADP-65GD B AC Adapter /// Storage: 512GB SanDisk SD8SN8U512G1002 (boot) /// OS: Windows 10 Home

 

Other Tech: Console: Xbox One S 1TB /// Phone: Apple iPhone XS Max 256GB Space Grey (Daily Driver)  /// Tablet: Apple iPad 9.7-inch Wi-Fi (2018) 32GB + Apple Pencil (1st Generation) /// Headphones: Sony WF-1000XM3 (Daily Driver), Sony WH-1000XM3

 

Cameras: Bodies: Canon EOS-1D X, Canon EOS 5D Mark IV,  Sony A6000 /// Lenses: Canon EF 24-70mm F/2.8L USM, Canon EF 16-35mm F/2.8L II USM, Canon EF 70-200mm F/2.8L IS II USM, Sony SEL-P1650 E 16-50mm F3.5-5.6 PZ OSS /// Flashes: 2x Canon Speedlite 580EXII /// Tripods: Leofoto LS-324C Carbon Fiber Tripod + Leofoto LH-40 Ballhead, Leofoto MC-80 Multipurpose Clamp /// Yes, I am a Canon Fanboy, deal with it

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1 hour ago, Kisai said:

Off hand, it probably pulled too much power and something melted, when the psu was turned on again, the melt causes a short.

Now how it works. This is just a random failure, OP, did you contact Corsair support about that ? @jonnyGURU


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A fuse exploding could cause the broken filament of the fuse to be thrown in air as sparks .. ex  a component dies for some reason, shorting out (always on instead of switching on/off as supposed to do) which means more current is taken from mains for a short period, which causes the fuse to blow out. Usually fuses are wrapped in heatshrink (sleeve) material for this reason (and to protect you and the psu internals and the plastic fan from shards of glass from the fuse case.

 

Primary (high voltage) mosfets or switching transistors can also blow up violently and those chunks of epoxy / silicon can cause sparks ...

Some ac filtering capacitors can blow up with sparks ... in the past used to happen when humidity would (over time) get inside those capacitors and eventually cause some short inside

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Just a component that decided to fail prematurely... can happen.


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Posted · Original PosterOP
1 hour ago, Juular said:

did you contact Corsair support about that

In my country (Singapore) warranty service for most if not all pc components are handled by the distributors here not by the brand's support. Unfortunately it is the weekends and their offices are closed, gotta call them on monday. But yeah if @jonnyGURU could shed a light on it I wouldn't mind.

 

1 hour ago, mariushm said:

A fuse exploding could cause the broken filament of the fuse to be thrown in air as sparks .. ex  a component dies for some reason, shorting out (always on instead of switching on/off as supposed to do) which means more current is taken from mains for a short period, which causes the fuse to blow out. Usually fuses are wrapped in heatshrink (sleeve) material for this reason (and to protect you and the psu internals and the plastic fan from shards of glass from the fuse case.

 

Primary (high voltage) mosfets or switching transistors can also blow up violently and those chunks of epoxy / silicon can cause sparks ...

Some ac filtering capacitors can blow up with sparks ... in the past used to happen when humidity would (over time) get inside those capacitors and eventually cause some short inside

Half of this reaches beyond my area of understanding lol, but thanks for explaining this.

 

1 hour ago, Kilrah said:

Just a component that decided to fail prematurely... can happen.

Well that just sucks for me then, have 3x corsair RMx PSUs (2x 850w and 1x 750w). First Corsair I had fail, first one overall to ever fail with sparks flying out the back. But I know corsair products are generally pretty reliable, have a friend who's still on an 8 year old RM650. So i guess its just bad luck which resulted in a shocking sight.


Main Rig - Hana: CPU: Intel® Core™ i9-9900K Processor  /// Motherboard: Gigabyte Z390 Aorus Ultra /// CPU Cooler: Deepcool GamerStorm Castle 360 RGB V2 /// GPU: Gigabyte AORUS GeForce® RTX 2080 SUPER™ 8G /// RAM: G.SKILL TridentZ RGB 64GB (4x16GB) 3200Mhz CL16 /// Chassis: Fractal Design Define R6 USB-C Blackout TG /// PSU: Corsair RM850i /// Storage: 500GB Samsung 970 EVO Plus NVMe (boot) + 512GB WD SN520 NVMe (Working Drive) + 2x 1TB Samsung 850 EVO 2.5" SATA SSD RAID0 (Game Library) + 2TB Seagate BarraCuda (Backup) /// OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Peripherals (Main Rig - Hana): Mouse: Logitech G603 Lightspeed /// Keyboard: Logitech G613 Wireless Mechanical Gaming Keyboard /// Tablet: Wacom Intuos M BT /// Monitor: 3x LG 27UL500-W (4K IPS Freesync) + Dell Ultrasharp U2312HM /// DAC: Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 /// Speakers: Logitech Z625 /// Mic: Focusrite CM25 MkII /// Headphones: Audio-Technica ATH-M50x /// Racing Wheel: Logitech G920 Driving Force with Shifter /// Eye Tracker: Steelseries Sentry /// Printer: Canon imageCLASS MF635Cx /// External Drives: 500GB Samsung T5 SSD (Working Drive) + 1TB Seagate Backup Plus (Small Backups) + 500GB Seagate FreeAgent® GoFlexTM (Just for the GoFlex Sata adapter tbh)

 

HTPC/Render Machine - Ryzen: CPU: AMD Ryzen™ 7 2700X Processor /// Motherboard: ASRock B450 Steel Legend /// CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i PRO RGB /// GPU: MSI GTX 1070 GAMING X 8G /// RAM: G.SKILL TridentZ RGB 32GB (2x16GB) 3000Mhz CL16 @ 3000 CL15 /// Chassis: Fractal Design Meshify C Dark TG /// PSU: Corsair RM850x /// Storage: 500GB Samsung 860 EVO M.2 SATA SSD (boot) + 250GB Samsung 840 EVO /// OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Peripherals (HTPC/Render Machine - Ryzen): Mouse: Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum /// Keyboards: CoolerMaster MasterKeys Pro L RGB - MX Blue, Logitech Wireless Touch Keyboard K400 Plus /// Monitor: Philips 42PFL4208 (42" 1080p TV) /// Speakers: Sonos Beam (Black)

 

Home Server - NASty: CPU: AMD Ryzen™ 5 2600 Processor /// Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK  /// CPU Cooler: AMD Wraith Prism /// GPU: Palit GTX 1050 StormX 2G /// RAM: Corsair Vengeance RGB 16GB (2x8GB) 3000Mhz CL15 /// Chassis: Fractal Design Define R5 Window /// PSU: Corsair RM750x /// Storage: 6x 4TB Seagate Exos Enterprise Drive + 3TB Seagate BarraCuda  /// OS: UNRaid

 

Laptop (Asus UX430UN): CPU: Intel® Core™ i7-8550U Processor  /// Motherboard: Asus UX430UN /// CPU Cooler: Asus UX430UN /// GPU: NVIDIA GeForce MX150 /// RAM: 16GB (2x8GB) 2133Mhz /// Chassis: Asus UX430UN /// PSU: Asus ADP-65GD B AC Adapter /// Storage: 512GB SanDisk SD8SN8U512G1002 (boot) /// OS: Windows 10 Home

 

Other Tech: Console: Xbox One S 1TB /// Phone: Apple iPhone XS Max 256GB Space Grey (Daily Driver)  /// Tablet: Apple iPad 9.7-inch Wi-Fi (2018) 32GB + Apple Pencil (1st Generation) /// Headphones: Sony WF-1000XM3 (Daily Driver), Sony WH-1000XM3

 

Cameras: Bodies: Canon EOS-1D X, Canon EOS 5D Mark IV,  Sony A6000 /// Lenses: Canon EF 24-70mm F/2.8L USM, Canon EF 16-35mm F/2.8L II USM, Canon EF 70-200mm F/2.8L IS II USM, Sony SEL-P1650 E 16-50mm F3.5-5.6 PZ OSS /// Flashes: 2x Canon Speedlite 580EXII /// Tripods: Leofoto LS-324C Carbon Fiber Tripod + Leofoto LH-40 Ballhead, Leofoto MC-80 Multipurpose Clamp /// Yes, I am a Canon Fanboy, deal with it

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Considering you're in Singapore which is very close to ocean, I would think the air humidity (and salt contents) may be a factor in your power supplies failing, even if from a reputable manufacturer.

 

Maybe measure how the air is in your room/house and consider buying a dehumidifier or some air purifier for your room / house to make the air more "standard"

Engineers test and account for various scenarios (often power supplies sold in countries located at higher altitude will have different components), some products sold in countries with more humidity (india, regions close the ocean) will account for this humidity, in products sold to some countries they put additional plastic or textile mesh materials to block ants and bugs and spiders and tiny lizards from getting between the bottom of circuit boards and metal case (because they cause shorts and kill products with their bodies cause short circuits)  but sometimes compromises are made ( like in "yeah, ok, so the psu will fail more often in these countries and we'll lose some money with the rma process, but it will still be cheaper to make psu like this compared to upgrading the components or adding some extra parts throughout the whole line" ... there's competition and they have to keep the prices at some points otherwise distributors would not order and competitors would sell more stuff)

 

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Posted · Original PosterOP
16 minutes ago, mariushm said:

Considering you're in Singapore which is very close to ocean, I would think the air humidity (and salt contents) may be a factor in your power supplies failing, even if from a reputable manufacturer.

 

Maybe measure how the air is in your room/house and consider buying a dehumidifier or some air purifier for your room / house to make the air more "standard"

Engineers test and account for various scenarios (often power supplies sold in countries located at higher altitude will have different components), some products sold in countries with more humidity (india, regions close the ocean) will account for this humidity, in products sold to some countries they put additional plastic or textile mesh materials to block ants and bugs and spiders and tiny lizards from getting between the bottom of circuit boards and metal case (because they cause shorts and kill products with their bodies cause short circuits)  but sometimes compromises are made ( like in "yeah, ok, so the psu will fail more often in these countries and we'll lose some money with the rma process, but it will still be cheaper to make psu like this compared to upgrading the components or adding some extra parts throughout the whole line" ... there's competition and they have to keep the prices at some points otherwise distributors would not order and competitors would sell more stuff)

 

I see, yes it is very humid here, given that we are also pretty much at the equator (like 1 degree north) with relative humidity frequently in the 90s and at 100% every time it rains.

 

My room usually has the AC on especially when I'm going to be sitting at my computer for extended periods of time (AC was off when this happened) which will bring the humidity down to about 40%.

 

I guess that may be a cause of premature failure, just unlucky. This couldn't at a worse time though, Singapore is still in a semi "lockdown" basically non essential travel is not allowed and we are constantly encouraged to stay at home with schools all converting to full e-learning. Have a couple of assignments deadlines coming up in the next few weeks and the PC I had to pull the other PSU from to use for now is where I usually render all my work in Autodesk Maya so I can continue working on my main rig. What's worse is I just realised that Monday is also a Public Holiday so offices won't be open. Yay to one more day of downtime! Really couldn't happen at a worse time.


Main Rig - Hana: CPU: Intel® Core™ i9-9900K Processor  /// Motherboard: Gigabyte Z390 Aorus Ultra /// CPU Cooler: Deepcool GamerStorm Castle 360 RGB V2 /// GPU: Gigabyte AORUS GeForce® RTX 2080 SUPER™ 8G /// RAM: G.SKILL TridentZ RGB 64GB (4x16GB) 3200Mhz CL16 /// Chassis: Fractal Design Define R6 USB-C Blackout TG /// PSU: Corsair RM850i /// Storage: 500GB Samsung 970 EVO Plus NVMe (boot) + 512GB WD SN520 NVMe (Working Drive) + 2x 1TB Samsung 850 EVO 2.5" SATA SSD RAID0 (Game Library) + 2TB Seagate BarraCuda (Backup) /// OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Peripherals (Main Rig - Hana): Mouse: Logitech G603 Lightspeed /// Keyboard: Logitech G613 Wireless Mechanical Gaming Keyboard /// Tablet: Wacom Intuos M BT /// Monitor: 3x LG 27UL500-W (4K IPS Freesync) + Dell Ultrasharp U2312HM /// DAC: Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 /// Speakers: Logitech Z625 /// Mic: Focusrite CM25 MkII /// Headphones: Audio-Technica ATH-M50x /// Racing Wheel: Logitech G920 Driving Force with Shifter /// Eye Tracker: Steelseries Sentry /// Printer: Canon imageCLASS MF635Cx /// External Drives: 500GB Samsung T5 SSD (Working Drive) + 1TB Seagate Backup Plus (Small Backups) + 500GB Seagate FreeAgent® GoFlexTM (Just for the GoFlex Sata adapter tbh)

 

HTPC/Render Machine - Ryzen: CPU: AMD Ryzen™ 7 2700X Processor /// Motherboard: ASRock B450 Steel Legend /// CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i PRO RGB /// GPU: MSI GTX 1070 GAMING X 8G /// RAM: G.SKILL TridentZ RGB 32GB (2x16GB) 3000Mhz CL16 @ 3000 CL15 /// Chassis: Fractal Design Meshify C Dark TG /// PSU: Corsair RM850x /// Storage: 500GB Samsung 860 EVO M.2 SATA SSD (boot) + 250GB Samsung 840 EVO /// OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Peripherals (HTPC/Render Machine - Ryzen): Mouse: Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum /// Keyboards: CoolerMaster MasterKeys Pro L RGB - MX Blue, Logitech Wireless Touch Keyboard K400 Plus /// Monitor: Philips 42PFL4208 (42" 1080p TV) /// Speakers: Sonos Beam (Black)

 

Home Server - NASty: CPU: AMD Ryzen™ 5 2600 Processor /// Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK  /// CPU Cooler: AMD Wraith Prism /// GPU: Palit GTX 1050 StormX 2G /// RAM: Corsair Vengeance RGB 16GB (2x8GB) 3000Mhz CL15 /// Chassis: Fractal Design Define R5 Window /// PSU: Corsair RM750x /// Storage: 6x 4TB Seagate Exos Enterprise Drive + 3TB Seagate BarraCuda  /// OS: UNRaid

 

Laptop (Asus UX430UN): CPU: Intel® Core™ i7-8550U Processor  /// Motherboard: Asus UX430UN /// CPU Cooler: Asus UX430UN /// GPU: NVIDIA GeForce MX150 /// RAM: 16GB (2x8GB) 2133Mhz /// Chassis: Asus UX430UN /// PSU: Asus ADP-65GD B AC Adapter /// Storage: 512GB SanDisk SD8SN8U512G1002 (boot) /// OS: Windows 10 Home

 

Other Tech: Console: Xbox One S 1TB /// Phone: Apple iPhone XS Max 256GB Space Grey (Daily Driver)  /// Tablet: Apple iPad 9.7-inch Wi-Fi (2018) 32GB + Apple Pencil (1st Generation) /// Headphones: Sony WF-1000XM3 (Daily Driver), Sony WH-1000XM3

 

Cameras: Bodies: Canon EOS-1D X, Canon EOS 5D Mark IV,  Sony A6000 /// Lenses: Canon EF 24-70mm F/2.8L USM, Canon EF 16-35mm F/2.8L II USM, Canon EF 70-200mm F/2.8L IS II USM, Sony SEL-P1650 E 16-50mm F3.5-5.6 PZ OSS /// Flashes: 2x Canon Speedlite 580EXII /// Tripods: Leofoto LS-324C Carbon Fiber Tripod + Leofoto LH-40 Ballhead, Leofoto MC-80 Multipurpose Clamp /// Yes, I am a Canon Fanboy, deal with it

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6 hours ago, Juular said:

Now how it works. This is just a random failure, OP, did you contact Corsair support about that ? @jonnyGURU

I have nothing to add without seeing the unit. 

 

Any part inside the PSU can potentially fail spectacularly.  You have power coursing through the whole thing when suddenly power jumps to ground. 

 

What happens when you drop a wrench on a car battery? 

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12 hours ago, Juular said:

Now how it works. This is just a random failure, OP, did you contact Corsair support about that ? @jonnyGURU

I've literately had another device 'melt' on the inside and do this. This is what happens when you rest objects on devices where the metal chassis is also the heatsink.

 

In the case of the OP, we are all spitballing here without the OP opening the PSU up, and that voids the warranty.

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