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What could cause a psu to shoot literal sparks out the back

berberries

This isn't some cheap PSU either, it's a Corsair RM850x bought in May 2019. Barely a year old.

 

It's still under warranty, so I'm going to try get it replaced in the next week or so. But I'm just curious on what could cause this catastrophic failure.


I was playing American Truck Simulator (I'm tryna grind all the achievements because why not, I have nothing better to do at home) and just had a youtube video playing in the background. Monitors just turned black and pc shut off as if someone pulled the plug off the PC. Then when it tried to start itself up again (within a second) a couple of sparks shot out the back of the psu and i quickly switched off the psu switch and pulled the plug out the back. Computer was also sitting on the table and filters were cleaned regularly (just last week it was cleaned too)

 

Main specs are an i9-9900k (I know, I bought it before Ryzen 3rd gen performance numbers were even rumored) and an RTX 2080 SUPER. Full specs are in my signature under "Main Rig - Hana".

 

I have already pulled out the PSU and popped in another RM850x from my other build, and the pc booted up like nothing ever happened.

 

This is completely out of curiosity. I don't intend to try repair the PSU myself or anything, but what could have caused it to happen?

Main Rig: CPU: AMD Ryzen™ 9 3950X Processor (Stock, -0.1V offset)  /// Motherboard: Asus Pro WS X570-Ace /// CPU Cooler: Deepcool GamerStorm Castle 360 RGB V2 /// GPU: Gigabyte AORUS GeForce® RTX 2080 SUPER™ 8G /// RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws V 128GB (4x32GB) 3200Mhz CL16 /// Chassis: Fractal Design Define R6 USB-C Blackout TG /// PSU: Corsair RM850i /// Storage: 500GB Samsung 970 EVO Plus NVMe (boot) + 1TB WD Black SN750 NVMe (Working Drive) + 2x 1TB Samsung 850 EVO 2.5" SATA SSD RAID0 (Game Library) + 2TB Seagate BarraCuda (Backup) /// OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Peripherals (Main Rig): Mouse: Logitech MX Master 3 + Logitech G903 Lightspeed /// Keyboard: Keychron Q1 ANSI - JWK Lavender Linear Switches (TX Switch Film, Krytox 205g0), Durock V2 Stabilisers, Polycarbonate Plate, Tape Mod, GMK Blue Samurai + Keychron K4 V2 Hotswap RGB Aluminum Frame - Gateron Milky Black (Deskeys Switch Film, Krytox 205g0), Foam Mod, Tape Mod, GMK Rainy Day PBT Clones /// Tablet: Wacom Intuos M BT /// Monitor: 4x LG 27UL500-W (4K IPS Freesync) /// DAC: Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 /// Speakers: Logitech Z625 /// Mic: Focusrite CM25 MkII /// Headphones: Audio-Technica ATH-M50x, ATH-LS70iS IEMs /// Racing Wheel: Logitech G920 Driving Force with Shifter /// Eye Tracker: Steelseries Sentry  /// External Drives: 500GB Samsung T5 SSD (Working Drive)

 

Home Server - NASty: CPU: AMD Ryzen™ 7 2700x Processor /// Motherboard: Asus PRIME X470-Pro  /// CPU Cooler: be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 /// GPU: Gigabyte GeForce® GT 1030 OC 2G /// RAM: G.SKILL TridentZ RGB 64GB (4x16GB) 3200Mhz CL16 /// Chassis: Fractal Design Define R5 Window /// PSU: Corsair RM750x /// Storage: LSI SAS 9211-8i (IT Mode) + 10x 4TB Seagate Exos Enterprise Drive /// OS: UNRaid

 

Tester Rig: CPU: AMD Athlon™ 200GE Processor /// Motherboard: Asus ROG Crosshair VI Hero WIFI  /// CPU Cooler: AMD Wraith Prism RGB /// GPU: Palit GeForce® GTX 1050 2GB StromX /// RAM: Klevv Bolt 8GB (1x8GB) 3000Mhz CL15 /// Chassis: The AMAZING $30 "Computer Case"! /// PSU: Seasonic Focus GX-750 /// Storage: 1TB Samsung 860 EVO 2.5" SATA SSD + 240GB Transcend SSD220S 2.5" SATA SSD /// OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Laptop (Asus UX430UN): CPU: Intel® Core™ i7-8550U Processor  /// GPU: NVIDIA GeForce MX150 /// RAM: 16GB 2133Mhz /// Storage: 512GB SanDisk SD8SN8U512G1002 (boot) /// OS: Windows 10 Home

 

Other Tech: Console: Xbox One S 1TB, Apple TV 4K /// Printer: Canon imageCLASS MF635Cx /// Phone: Apple iPhone 12 Pro Max 256GB Graphite (Daily Driver)  /// Tablet: Apple iPad 9.7-inch Wi-Fi (2018) 32GB + Apple Pencil (1st Generation) /// Headphones: Apple Airpods Pro, Sony WF-1000XM3, Sony WH-1000XM3 /// Smartwatch: Apple Watch Series 6 GPS Space Grey

 

Cameras: Bodies: Canon EOS-1D X Mark II, Canon EOS 5D Mark IV,  Sony A6000 /// Lenses: Canon EF 24-70mm F/2.8L USM, Canon EF 16-35mm F/2.8L II USM, Canon EF 70-200mm F/2.8L IS II USM, Tamron SP 150-600mm F/5-6.3 Di VC USD G2 (Canon), Sony SEL-P1650 E 16-50mm F3.5-5.6 PZ OSS /// Lighting: 2x Godox SL60-W Continuous LED, 2x Canon Speedlite 580EXII /// Tripods: Leofoto LS-324C Carbon Fiber Tripod + Leofoto LH-40 Ballhead, Leofoto MC-80 Multipurpose Clamp, Triopo DG-3 Gimbal Head /// Yes, I am a Canon Fanboy, deal with it

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Maybe the insulation failed, from what I understand sparks are just electrical discharge through the air, which shouldn't happen if it is properly insulated.

 

If you wanna know more I found this video, at some point they said it's often an overloaded mosfet: 

 

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24 minutes ago, berberries said:

This isn't some cheap PSU either, it's a Corsair RM850x bought in May 2019. Barely a year old.

 

It's still under warranty, so I'm going to try get it replaced in the next week or so. But I'm just curious on what could cause this catastrophic failure.


I was playing American Truck Simulator (I'm tryna grind all the achievements because why not, I have nothing better to do at home) and just had a youtube video playing in the background. Monitors just turned black and pc shut off as if someone pulled the plug off the PC. Then when it tried to start itself up again (within a second) a couple of sparks shot out the back of the psu and i quickly switched off the psu switch and pulled the plug out the back. Computer was also sitting on the table and filters were cleaned regularly (just last week it was cleaned too)

 

Main specs are an i9-9900k (I know, I bought it before Ryzen 3rd gen performance numbers were even rumored) and an RTX 2080 SUPER. Full specs are in my signature under "Main Rig - Hana".

 

I have already pulled out the PSU and popped in another RM850x from my other build, and the pc booted up like nothing ever happened.

 

This is completely out of curiosity. I don't intend to try repair the PSU myself or anything, but what could have caused it to happen?

Off hand, it probably pulled too much power and something melted, when the psu was turned on again, the melt causes a short.

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Just wondering, did you regularly cut power to the PSU? Either by using the switch on the back of the PSU, or by e.g. turning off an extension cord that the PSU was plugged into. 

:)

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The little elves that work inside it (850 of them in your case, one for each watt) have learned how to mass produce firearms and have started a revolution. That's why it's important not to get much more wattage than necessary. Any down time the elves have is time they can use for plotting and inventing.

Make sure to quote or tag me (@JoostinOnline) or I won't see your response!

PSU Tier List  |  The Real Reason Delidding Improves Temperatures"2K" does not mean 2560×1440 

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11 minutes ago, merco said:

Maybe the insulation failed, from what I understand sparks are just electrical discharge through the air, which shouldn't happen if it is properly insulated.

 

5 minutes ago, Kisai said:

Off hand, it probably pulled too much power and something melted, when the psu was turned on again, the melt causes a short.

I see, thanks for the insight

 

1 minute ago, seon123 said:

Just wondering, did you regularly cut power to the PSU? Either by using the switch on the back of the PSU, or by e.g. turning off an extension cord that the PSU was plugged into. 

Nope, I just shut it down through windows and leave it as is, the switch is only turned off when I'm replacing hardware or cleaning every 2 months or so. Extension cord side I don't ever turn it off.

 

2 minutes ago, JoostinOnline said:

The little elves that work inside it (850 of them in your case, one for each watt) have learned how to mass produce firearms and have started a revolution. That's why it's important not to get much more wattage than necessary. Any down time the elves have is time they can use for plotting and inventing.

I understand my system full load will draw roughly 500W max, maybe a little more. But the 650w wasn't in stock and the 850w was 20SGD (13USD) more than the 750w. So it just kinda made sense to get the 850w.

Main Rig: CPU: AMD Ryzen™ 9 3950X Processor (Stock, -0.1V offset)  /// Motherboard: Asus Pro WS X570-Ace /// CPU Cooler: Deepcool GamerStorm Castle 360 RGB V2 /// GPU: Gigabyte AORUS GeForce® RTX 2080 SUPER™ 8G /// RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws V 128GB (4x32GB) 3200Mhz CL16 /// Chassis: Fractal Design Define R6 USB-C Blackout TG /// PSU: Corsair RM850i /// Storage: 500GB Samsung 970 EVO Plus NVMe (boot) + 1TB WD Black SN750 NVMe (Working Drive) + 2x 1TB Samsung 850 EVO 2.5" SATA SSD RAID0 (Game Library) + 2TB Seagate BarraCuda (Backup) /// OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Peripherals (Main Rig): Mouse: Logitech MX Master 3 + Logitech G903 Lightspeed /// Keyboard: Keychron Q1 ANSI - JWK Lavender Linear Switches (TX Switch Film, Krytox 205g0), Durock V2 Stabilisers, Polycarbonate Plate, Tape Mod, GMK Blue Samurai + Keychron K4 V2 Hotswap RGB Aluminum Frame - Gateron Milky Black (Deskeys Switch Film, Krytox 205g0), Foam Mod, Tape Mod, GMK Rainy Day PBT Clones /// Tablet: Wacom Intuos M BT /// Monitor: 4x LG 27UL500-W (4K IPS Freesync) /// DAC: Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 /// Speakers: Logitech Z625 /// Mic: Focusrite CM25 MkII /// Headphones: Audio-Technica ATH-M50x, ATH-LS70iS IEMs /// Racing Wheel: Logitech G920 Driving Force with Shifter /// Eye Tracker: Steelseries Sentry  /// External Drives: 500GB Samsung T5 SSD (Working Drive)

 

Home Server - NASty: CPU: AMD Ryzen™ 7 2700x Processor /// Motherboard: Asus PRIME X470-Pro  /// CPU Cooler: be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 /// GPU: Gigabyte GeForce® GT 1030 OC 2G /// RAM: G.SKILL TridentZ RGB 64GB (4x16GB) 3200Mhz CL16 /// Chassis: Fractal Design Define R5 Window /// PSU: Corsair RM750x /// Storage: LSI SAS 9211-8i (IT Mode) + 10x 4TB Seagate Exos Enterprise Drive /// OS: UNRaid

 

Tester Rig: CPU: AMD Athlon™ 200GE Processor /// Motherboard: Asus ROG Crosshair VI Hero WIFI  /// CPU Cooler: AMD Wraith Prism RGB /// GPU: Palit GeForce® GTX 1050 2GB StromX /// RAM: Klevv Bolt 8GB (1x8GB) 3000Mhz CL15 /// Chassis: The AMAZING $30 "Computer Case"! /// PSU: Seasonic Focus GX-750 /// Storage: 1TB Samsung 860 EVO 2.5" SATA SSD + 240GB Transcend SSD220S 2.5" SATA SSD /// OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Laptop (Asus UX430UN): CPU: Intel® Core™ i7-8550U Processor  /// GPU: NVIDIA GeForce MX150 /// RAM: 16GB 2133Mhz /// Storage: 512GB SanDisk SD8SN8U512G1002 (boot) /// OS: Windows 10 Home

 

Other Tech: Console: Xbox One S 1TB, Apple TV 4K /// Printer: Canon imageCLASS MF635Cx /// Phone: Apple iPhone 12 Pro Max 256GB Graphite (Daily Driver)  /// Tablet: Apple iPad 9.7-inch Wi-Fi (2018) 32GB + Apple Pencil (1st Generation) /// Headphones: Apple Airpods Pro, Sony WF-1000XM3, Sony WH-1000XM3 /// Smartwatch: Apple Watch Series 6 GPS Space Grey

 

Cameras: Bodies: Canon EOS-1D X Mark II, Canon EOS 5D Mark IV,  Sony A6000 /// Lenses: Canon EF 24-70mm F/2.8L USM, Canon EF 16-35mm F/2.8L II USM, Canon EF 70-200mm F/2.8L IS II USM, Tamron SP 150-600mm F/5-6.3 Di VC USD G2 (Canon), Sony SEL-P1650 E 16-50mm F3.5-5.6 PZ OSS /// Lighting: 2x Godox SL60-W Continuous LED, 2x Canon Speedlite 580EXII /// Tripods: Leofoto LS-324C Carbon Fiber Tripod + Leofoto LH-40 Ballhead, Leofoto MC-80 Multipurpose Clamp, Triopo DG-3 Gimbal Head /// Yes, I am a Canon Fanboy, deal with it

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1 hour ago, Kisai said:

Off hand, it probably pulled too much power and something melted, when the psu was turned on again, the melt causes a short.

Now how it works. This is just a random failure, OP, did you contact Corsair support about that ? @jonnyGURU

Tag or quote me so i see your reply

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A fuse exploding could cause the broken filament of the fuse to be thrown in air as sparks .. ex  a component dies for some reason, shorting out (always on instead of switching on/off as supposed to do) which means more current is taken from mains for a short period, which causes the fuse to blow out. Usually fuses are wrapped in heatshrink (sleeve) material for this reason (and to protect you and the psu internals and the plastic fan from shards of glass from the fuse case.

 

Primary (high voltage) mosfets or switching transistors can also blow up violently and those chunks of epoxy / silicon can cause sparks ...

Some ac filtering capacitors can blow up with sparks ... in the past used to happen when humidity would (over time) get inside those capacitors and eventually cause some short inside

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Just a component that decided to fail prematurely... can happen.

F@H
Desktop: i9-13900K, ASUS Z790-E, 64GB DDR5-6000 CL36, RTX3080, 2TB MP600 Pro XT, 2TB SX8200Pro, 2x16TB Ironwolf RAID0, Corsair HX1200, Antec Vortex 360 AIO, Thermaltake Versa H25 TG, Samsung 4K curved 49" TV, 23" secondary, Mountain Everest Max

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1 hour ago, Juular said:

did you contact Corsair support about that

In my country (Singapore) warranty service for most if not all pc components are handled by the distributors here not by the brand's support. Unfortunately it is the weekends and their offices are closed, gotta call them on monday. But yeah if @jonnyGURU could shed a light on it I wouldn't mind.

 

1 hour ago, mariushm said:

A fuse exploding could cause the broken filament of the fuse to be thrown in air as sparks .. ex  a component dies for some reason, shorting out (always on instead of switching on/off as supposed to do) which means more current is taken from mains for a short period, which causes the fuse to blow out. Usually fuses are wrapped in heatshrink (sleeve) material for this reason (and to protect you and the psu internals and the plastic fan from shards of glass from the fuse case.

 

Primary (high voltage) mosfets or switching transistors can also blow up violently and those chunks of epoxy / silicon can cause sparks ...

Some ac filtering capacitors can blow up with sparks ... in the past used to happen when humidity would (over time) get inside those capacitors and eventually cause some short inside

Half of this reaches beyond my area of understanding lol, but thanks for explaining this.

 

1 hour ago, Kilrah said:

Just a component that decided to fail prematurely... can happen.

Well that just sucks for me then, have 3x corsair RMx PSUs (2x 850w and 1x 750w). First Corsair I had fail, first one overall to ever fail with sparks flying out the back. But I know corsair products are generally pretty reliable, have a friend who's still on an 8 year old RM650. So i guess its just bad luck which resulted in a shocking sight.

Main Rig: CPU: AMD Ryzen™ 9 3950X Processor (Stock, -0.1V offset)  /// Motherboard: Asus Pro WS X570-Ace /// CPU Cooler: Deepcool GamerStorm Castle 360 RGB V2 /// GPU: Gigabyte AORUS GeForce® RTX 2080 SUPER™ 8G /// RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws V 128GB (4x32GB) 3200Mhz CL16 /// Chassis: Fractal Design Define R6 USB-C Blackout TG /// PSU: Corsair RM850i /// Storage: 500GB Samsung 970 EVO Plus NVMe (boot) + 1TB WD Black SN750 NVMe (Working Drive) + 2x 1TB Samsung 850 EVO 2.5" SATA SSD RAID0 (Game Library) + 2TB Seagate BarraCuda (Backup) /// OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Peripherals (Main Rig): Mouse: Logitech MX Master 3 + Logitech G903 Lightspeed /// Keyboard: Keychron Q1 ANSI - JWK Lavender Linear Switches (TX Switch Film, Krytox 205g0), Durock V2 Stabilisers, Polycarbonate Plate, Tape Mod, GMK Blue Samurai + Keychron K4 V2 Hotswap RGB Aluminum Frame - Gateron Milky Black (Deskeys Switch Film, Krytox 205g0), Foam Mod, Tape Mod, GMK Rainy Day PBT Clones /// Tablet: Wacom Intuos M BT /// Monitor: 4x LG 27UL500-W (4K IPS Freesync) /// DAC: Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 /// Speakers: Logitech Z625 /// Mic: Focusrite CM25 MkII /// Headphones: Audio-Technica ATH-M50x, ATH-LS70iS IEMs /// Racing Wheel: Logitech G920 Driving Force with Shifter /// Eye Tracker: Steelseries Sentry  /// External Drives: 500GB Samsung T5 SSD (Working Drive)

 

Home Server - NASty: CPU: AMD Ryzen™ 7 2700x Processor /// Motherboard: Asus PRIME X470-Pro  /// CPU Cooler: be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 /// GPU: Gigabyte GeForce® GT 1030 OC 2G /// RAM: G.SKILL TridentZ RGB 64GB (4x16GB) 3200Mhz CL16 /// Chassis: Fractal Design Define R5 Window /// PSU: Corsair RM750x /// Storage: LSI SAS 9211-8i (IT Mode) + 10x 4TB Seagate Exos Enterprise Drive /// OS: UNRaid

 

Tester Rig: CPU: AMD Athlon™ 200GE Processor /// Motherboard: Asus ROG Crosshair VI Hero WIFI  /// CPU Cooler: AMD Wraith Prism RGB /// GPU: Palit GeForce® GTX 1050 2GB StromX /// RAM: Klevv Bolt 8GB (1x8GB) 3000Mhz CL15 /// Chassis: The AMAZING $30 "Computer Case"! /// PSU: Seasonic Focus GX-750 /// Storage: 1TB Samsung 860 EVO 2.5" SATA SSD + 240GB Transcend SSD220S 2.5" SATA SSD /// OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Laptop (Asus UX430UN): CPU: Intel® Core™ i7-8550U Processor  /// GPU: NVIDIA GeForce MX150 /// RAM: 16GB 2133Mhz /// Storage: 512GB SanDisk SD8SN8U512G1002 (boot) /// OS: Windows 10 Home

 

Other Tech: Console: Xbox One S 1TB, Apple TV 4K /// Printer: Canon imageCLASS MF635Cx /// Phone: Apple iPhone 12 Pro Max 256GB Graphite (Daily Driver)  /// Tablet: Apple iPad 9.7-inch Wi-Fi (2018) 32GB + Apple Pencil (1st Generation) /// Headphones: Apple Airpods Pro, Sony WF-1000XM3, Sony WH-1000XM3 /// Smartwatch: Apple Watch Series 6 GPS Space Grey

 

Cameras: Bodies: Canon EOS-1D X Mark II, Canon EOS 5D Mark IV,  Sony A6000 /// Lenses: Canon EF 24-70mm F/2.8L USM, Canon EF 16-35mm F/2.8L II USM, Canon EF 70-200mm F/2.8L IS II USM, Tamron SP 150-600mm F/5-6.3 Di VC USD G2 (Canon), Sony SEL-P1650 E 16-50mm F3.5-5.6 PZ OSS /// Lighting: 2x Godox SL60-W Continuous LED, 2x Canon Speedlite 580EXII /// Tripods: Leofoto LS-324C Carbon Fiber Tripod + Leofoto LH-40 Ballhead, Leofoto MC-80 Multipurpose Clamp, Triopo DG-3 Gimbal Head /// Yes, I am a Canon Fanboy, deal with it

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Considering you're in Singapore which is very close to ocean, I would think the air humidity (and salt contents) may be a factor in your power supplies failing, even if from a reputable manufacturer.

 

Maybe measure how the air is in your room/house and consider buying a dehumidifier or some air purifier for your room / house to make the air more "standard"

Engineers test and account for various scenarios (often power supplies sold in countries located at higher altitude will have different components), some products sold in countries with more humidity (india, regions close the ocean) will account for this humidity, in products sold to some countries they put additional plastic or textile mesh materials to block ants and bugs and spiders and tiny lizards from getting between the bottom of circuit boards and metal case (because they cause shorts and kill products with their bodies cause short circuits)  but sometimes compromises are made ( like in "yeah, ok, so the psu will fail more often in these countries and we'll lose some money with the rma process, but it will still be cheaper to make psu like this compared to upgrading the components or adding some extra parts throughout the whole line" ... there's competition and they have to keep the prices at some points otherwise distributors would not order and competitors would sell more stuff)

 

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16 minutes ago, mariushm said:

Considering you're in Singapore which is very close to ocean, I would think the air humidity (and salt contents) may be a factor in your power supplies failing, even if from a reputable manufacturer.

 

Maybe measure how the air is in your room/house and consider buying a dehumidifier or some air purifier for your room / house to make the air more "standard"

Engineers test and account for various scenarios (often power supplies sold in countries located at higher altitude will have different components), some products sold in countries with more humidity (india, regions close the ocean) will account for this humidity, in products sold to some countries they put additional plastic or textile mesh materials to block ants and bugs and spiders and tiny lizards from getting between the bottom of circuit boards and metal case (because they cause shorts and kill products with their bodies cause short circuits)  but sometimes compromises are made ( like in "yeah, ok, so the psu will fail more often in these countries and we'll lose some money with the rma process, but it will still be cheaper to make psu like this compared to upgrading the components or adding some extra parts throughout the whole line" ... there's competition and they have to keep the prices at some points otherwise distributors would not order and competitors would sell more stuff)

 

I see, yes it is very humid here, given that we are also pretty much at the equator (like 1 degree north) with relative humidity frequently in the 90s and at 100% every time it rains.

 

My room usually has the AC on especially when I'm going to be sitting at my computer for extended periods of time (AC was off when this happened) which will bring the humidity down to about 40%.

 

I guess that may be a cause of premature failure, just unlucky. This couldn't at a worse time though, Singapore is still in a semi "lockdown" basically non essential travel is not allowed and we are constantly encouraged to stay at home with schools all converting to full e-learning. Have a couple of assignments deadlines coming up in the next few weeks and the PC I had to pull the other PSU from to use for now is where I usually render all my work in Autodesk Maya so I can continue working on my main rig. What's worse is I just realised that Monday is also a Public Holiday so offices won't be open. Yay to one more day of downtime! Really couldn't happen at a worse time.

Main Rig: CPU: AMD Ryzen™ 9 3950X Processor (Stock, -0.1V offset)  /// Motherboard: Asus Pro WS X570-Ace /// CPU Cooler: Deepcool GamerStorm Castle 360 RGB V2 /// GPU: Gigabyte AORUS GeForce® RTX 2080 SUPER™ 8G /// RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws V 128GB (4x32GB) 3200Mhz CL16 /// Chassis: Fractal Design Define R6 USB-C Blackout TG /// PSU: Corsair RM850i /// Storage: 500GB Samsung 970 EVO Plus NVMe (boot) + 1TB WD Black SN750 NVMe (Working Drive) + 2x 1TB Samsung 850 EVO 2.5" SATA SSD RAID0 (Game Library) + 2TB Seagate BarraCuda (Backup) /// OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Peripherals (Main Rig): Mouse: Logitech MX Master 3 + Logitech G903 Lightspeed /// Keyboard: Keychron Q1 ANSI - JWK Lavender Linear Switches (TX Switch Film, Krytox 205g0), Durock V2 Stabilisers, Polycarbonate Plate, Tape Mod, GMK Blue Samurai + Keychron K4 V2 Hotswap RGB Aluminum Frame - Gateron Milky Black (Deskeys Switch Film, Krytox 205g0), Foam Mod, Tape Mod, GMK Rainy Day PBT Clones /// Tablet: Wacom Intuos M BT /// Monitor: 4x LG 27UL500-W (4K IPS Freesync) /// DAC: Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 /// Speakers: Logitech Z625 /// Mic: Focusrite CM25 MkII /// Headphones: Audio-Technica ATH-M50x, ATH-LS70iS IEMs /// Racing Wheel: Logitech G920 Driving Force with Shifter /// Eye Tracker: Steelseries Sentry  /// External Drives: 500GB Samsung T5 SSD (Working Drive)

 

Home Server - NASty: CPU: AMD Ryzen™ 7 2700x Processor /// Motherboard: Asus PRIME X470-Pro  /// CPU Cooler: be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 /// GPU: Gigabyte GeForce® GT 1030 OC 2G /// RAM: G.SKILL TridentZ RGB 64GB (4x16GB) 3200Mhz CL16 /// Chassis: Fractal Design Define R5 Window /// PSU: Corsair RM750x /// Storage: LSI SAS 9211-8i (IT Mode) + 10x 4TB Seagate Exos Enterprise Drive /// OS: UNRaid

 

Tester Rig: CPU: AMD Athlon™ 200GE Processor /// Motherboard: Asus ROG Crosshair VI Hero WIFI  /// CPU Cooler: AMD Wraith Prism RGB /// GPU: Palit GeForce® GTX 1050 2GB StromX /// RAM: Klevv Bolt 8GB (1x8GB) 3000Mhz CL15 /// Chassis: The AMAZING $30 "Computer Case"! /// PSU: Seasonic Focus GX-750 /// Storage: 1TB Samsung 860 EVO 2.5" SATA SSD + 240GB Transcend SSD220S 2.5" SATA SSD /// OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Laptop (Asus UX430UN): CPU: Intel® Core™ i7-8550U Processor  /// GPU: NVIDIA GeForce MX150 /// RAM: 16GB 2133Mhz /// Storage: 512GB SanDisk SD8SN8U512G1002 (boot) /// OS: Windows 10 Home

 

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6 hours ago, Juular said:

Now how it works. This is just a random failure, OP, did you contact Corsair support about that ? @jonnyGURU

I have nothing to add without seeing the unit. 

 

Any part inside the PSU can potentially fail spectacularly.  You have power coursing through the whole thing when suddenly power jumps to ground. 

 

What happens when you drop a wrench on a car battery? 

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12 hours ago, Juular said:

Now how it works. This is just a random failure, OP, did you contact Corsair support about that ? @jonnyGURU

I've literately had another device 'melt' on the inside and do this. This is what happens when you rest objects on devices where the metal chassis is also the heatsink.

 

In the case of the OP, we are all spitballing here without the OP opening the PSU up, and that voids the warranty.

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