PC crashing (No BSOD) while gaming and RAM not lighting up

[MrChemistryCow9]

Hi, I recently took out my CPU and repasted it (A week or 2 ago), and a little got into the socket, but it was cleaned well. It has been working fine until about 2 days ago. I would be playing a game such as GTA V or KSP and after 0-15 minutes in a game it crashed. It couldn't have gone above 87 C as P95 on Small FFTs doesn't go above that and that's to the MAX. I tried resetting BIOS to default, and turning off XMP and GPU OC. Still would crash PC. No warning, just off. It functions fine under idle. XMP seems to make it more unstable along with CPU oc but I don't know for sure as it still crashes. My RAM, also will not light up in iCUE which is odd, and it will only freeze typically with ASRock Polychrome open. (Not open right now) I ran memtest86 with 1 pass and there were 0 errors. Tried chipset, BIOS update, geforce drivers, windows update, none of that worked.

 

I'm on Windows 10 1903 and ASRock BIOS 2.8

3800x

X570 Taichi

H100i Platinum SE

Corsair Vengeance Pro 3000MHZ 15 CAS 16GB

EVGA 2080 XC Ultra Gaming

Thermaltake Smart (M) 750 Watt Bronze

 

Thanks for the help! It's been puzzling me lately.

[Niklos]

The first thing to do as usual is to go look at windows logs to see if it tells you something interesting.

[shark103]

You wrote that this happens while gaming so GPU under load and tested CPU temps.

Test it with high synthetic GPU load. Maybe you didn't clean everything from the socket and there is a problem with CPU <> GPU communication when GPU is under load and that results in crashes.

[MrChemistryCow9]

6 hours ago, shark103 said:

You wrote that this happens while gaming so GPU under load and tested CPU temps.

Test it with high synthetic GPU load. Maybe you didn't clean everything from the socket and there is a problem with CPU <> GPU communication when GPU is under load and that results in crashes.

Alright. I'll try this after school. Thanks.

[MrChemistryCow9]

8 hours ago, shark103 said:

You wrote that this happens while gaming so GPU under load and tested CPU temps.

Test it with high synthetic GPU load. Maybe you didn't clean everything from the socket and there is a problem with CPU <> GPU communication when GPU is under load and that results in crashes.

I did this. At 80% it didn't crash, but with kombustor and p95 running, kombustor crashed it because it used nearly 100% (reported) power 110-115% (reported by precision x1) I don't understand why this would cause a crash, my PSU should be able to support it plenty unless it is drawing more than expected.

[shark103]

1 hour ago, MrChemistryCow9 said:

I did this. At 80% it didn't crash, but with kombustor and p95 running, kombustor crashed it because it used nearly 100% (reported) power 110-115% (reported by precision x1) I don't understand why this would cause a crash, my PSU should be able to support it plenty unless it is drawing more than expected.

Did it work without a problem before "re-paste accident" under similar conditions ? Any occasional crashes, freezes etc ?

 

That PSU you got is which one:
- Smart M

- Smart BX1 /BX1 RGB

- Smart Pro RGB

- Smart DPS G 
 There are quite few thermaltakes with "smart" in name but none that is called "smartpower"  This is important as each of them is from different tier and only the last one (Smart  DPS G) is suitable in 100% for 2080 and 3800x.

[MrChemistryCow9]

4 hours ago, shark103 said:

Did it work without a problem before "re-paste accident" under similar conditions ? Any occasional crashes, freezes etc ?

 

That PSU you got is which one:
- Smart M

- Smart BX1 /BX1 RGB

- Smart Pro RGB

- Smart DPS G 
 There are quite few thermaltakes with "smart" in name but none that is called "smartpower"  This is important as each of them is from different tier and only the last one (Smart  DPS G) is suitable in 100% for 2080 and 3800x.

I had none of these issues before unless I was hard overclocking which I am not. I have the Smart M. How do you know which is suitable?

[shark103]

6 hours ago, MrChemistryCow9 said:

I had none of these issues before unless I was hard overclocking which I am not. I have the Smart M. How do you know which is suitable?

So you spent quite a lot of money 3800x, 570 board,2080 and got a cheap and nasty PSU - did someone advise you on that ?
Every PSU in reality has a Tier there is a list here on the forum also. They don't mean that PC with low tier will not work at all, it means that it could be not suitable for a PC that is on some level by components. It's based on quality of internal components of PSU, how it behaves under load etc.

Your is "Tier D - Potentially dangerous, but only in specific situations" for your component most people wouldn't even think about that PSU. With 99% certainty I would say that PSU while under heavy load (or load that has high peaks) it not supplying enough juice and system crashes.

PS. Smart Pro RGB would also be good for your build.

[MrChemistryCow9]

15 hours ago, shark103 said:

So you spent quite a lot of money 3800x, 570 board,2080 and got a cheap and nasty PSU - did someone advise you on that ?
Every PSU in reality has a Tier there is a list here on the forum also. They don't mean that PC with low tier will not work at all, it means that it could be not suitable for a PC that is on some level by components. It's based on quality of internal components of PSU, how it behaves under load etc.

Your is "Tier D - Potentially dangerous, but only in specific situations" for your component most people wouldn't even think about that PSU. With 99% certainty I would say that PSU while under heavy load (or load that has high peaks) it not supplying enough juice and system crashes.

PS. Smart Pro RGB would also be good for your build.

A frys employee recommended it to me. This was before I had my current build as the PSU transferred over. I fixed it anyways though, it was a lose power cable. I didn't know that psus were really tiered back when I got it 2 years ago. Also isn't the Smart Pro RGB a bad PSU too, as this isn't really an entry level system?

[shark103]

52 minutes ago, MrChemistryCow9 said:

A frys employee recommended it to me. This was before I had my current build as the PSU transferred over. I fixed it anyways though, it was a lose power cable. I didn't know that psus were really tiered back when I got it 2 years ago. Also isn't the Smart Pro RGB a bad PSU too, as this isn't really an entry level system?

Ahh so it's from an older system, that's why it was paired with those component. Lose power cable  a bit funny and good that nothing more serious  

Smart Pro RGB would be border line but could be if system would not be OCed and pushed to the limits. That's why at first i wrote that ony DPS G is suitable from "Smart" Thermaltakes.

[MrChemistryCow9]

47 minutes ago, shark103 said:

Ahh so it's from an older system, that's why it was paired with those component. Lose power cable  a bit funny and good that nothing more serious  

Smart Pro RGB would be border line but could be if system would not be OCed and pushed to the limits. That's why at first i wrote that ony DPS G is suitable from "Smart" Thermaltakes.

Yea. I am glad it wasn't a bad psu.

[MrChemistryCow9]

8 hours ago, shark103 said:

Ahh so it's from an older system, that's why it was paired with those component. Lose power cable  a bit funny and good that nothing more serious  

Smart Pro RGB would be border line but could be if system would not be OCed and pushed to the limits. That's why at first i wrote that ony DPS G is suitable from "Smart" Thermaltakes.

I just did a quick cable clean up job on my pc. I guess I screwed it up again as it started crashing when it went over 100% power with cpu load. I tried fixes and none worked, and I can tell when they do as kombustor doesn't report GPU power if its not working. What would you do?

[shark103]

8 hours ago, MrChemistryCow9 said:

I just did a quick cable clean up job on my pc. I guess I screwed it up again as it started crashing when it went over 100% power with cpu load. I tried fixes and none worked, and I can tell when they do as kombustor doesn't report GPU power if its not working. What would you do?

After fixing lose cable, crashing at max load and what would I do ? That's simple but probably not what anyone looking for help wants to hear - get a new PSU. 

With the current one you could "fix" the issue for a bit by going back to stock (zero OC) on both CPU and GPU or even undervolt CPU a bit but that would only be putting a bandage over a hole in a wheel - won't fix the problem only hide it for a bit. Get a new PSU asap and while picking it look at the tier list

Anything tier A or higher will be good (don't go for S instead of A as it won't give you anything, only do that if you can get it cheaper that lower tier one). For wattage use a psu calculator < this is the best one I know as it also allows to input OC, AIOs etc (don't buy recommended psu just use this to calculate how much W you need).