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Posted (edited) · Original PosterOP

So

After stupid/crazy amount of fiddling, I finally managed to attach the brackets to the block.

But, as I try and maneuver the block, the lines come in contact with the fan.

So, my issue/concern is that should flip the cooler itself 180 so the lines come from the bottom of the case?

 

Aaannnd

A tiny fray/break from outside the line, is that a red flag? Can it be fixed? Or will it be ok?

 

P.S. I did NOT apply paste yet, so there's still time.

20200406_141437_HDR.jpg

20200331_182606_HDR.jpg

Edited by G4mingArt1st
Did NOT apply paste yet
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I don't know that you'll have enough clearance to get the tubes out from behind the PSU shroud. Give it a shot, see if you can.

You may be better off top mounting it if you can (by the pics, it looks like there's space)


~Remember to quote posts to continue support on your thread~
-Don't be this kind of person-

CPU:  Intel  i7-4790k | RAM: 4x4GB G.Skill Ripjaws Z | Cooling: XSPC/EK/Bitspower loop | MOBO: MSI Z97-G45 | PSU: Seasonic Prime 750 Titanium  

SSD: 250GB Crucial MX200 (OS) | 1TB Crucial MX500 | Case: Phanteks Evolv X | GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 Ti FTW3 (with EK Block) | HDD: 1x Seagate Barracuda 2TB

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Posted · Original PosterOP
1 minute ago, Semper said:

I don't know that you'll have enough clearance to get the tubes out from behind the PSU shroud. Give it a shot, see if you can.

You may be better off top mounting it if you can (by the pics, it looks like there's space)

It won't do any good because it's a 360 RAD and a Lancool 2 ATX Full Tower

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2 hours ago, G4mingArt1st said:

Is the lines positioned like this, ok?

Will the coolant/freon flow freely like this?

 

 

That should be good to go, so long as you can close the side panel. So long as you don't have any kinks or unreasonably harsh turns, you'll be fine.


~Remember to quote posts to continue support on your thread~
-Don't be this kind of person-

CPU:  Intel  i7-4790k | RAM: 4x4GB G.Skill Ripjaws Z | Cooling: XSPC/EK/Bitspower loop | MOBO: MSI Z97-G45 | PSU: Seasonic Prime 750 Titanium  

SSD: 250GB Crucial MX200 (OS) | 1TB Crucial MX500 | Case: Phanteks Evolv X | GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 Ti FTW3 (with EK Block) | HDD: 1x Seagate Barracuda 2TB

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Posted · Original PosterOP
5 minutes ago, Semper said:

That should be good to go, so long as you can close the side panel. So long as you don't have any kinks or unreasonably harsh turns, you'll be fine.

The fears of a new custom builder.

I just hope everything will flow well and stuff.

But, next comes the "RGB line assembly."

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You can change it every few years (a common one to recommend is five years) if you so desire. Generally speaking though, your "old" paste, if it's of reasonable quality (and although older, Arctic Silver 5 isn't "bad") won't get to the point where it's a major issue within the normal life expectancy of a system. It's more likely that your pump will give way before your TIM becomes an issue.

Any time you remove your waterblock, you'll need to replace your paste however.

I've got paste from ~10 years ago in a few systems here and there (family members) that's still trucking on just fine.


~Remember to quote posts to continue support on your thread~
-Don't be this kind of person-

CPU:  Intel  i7-4790k | RAM: 4x4GB G.Skill Ripjaws Z | Cooling: XSPC/EK/Bitspower loop | MOBO: MSI Z97-G45 | PSU: Seasonic Prime 750 Titanium  

SSD: 250GB Crucial MX200 (OS) | 1TB Crucial MX500 | Case: Phanteks Evolv X | GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 Ti FTW3 (with EK Block) | HDD: 1x Seagate Barracuda 2TB

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