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iHacKZz_v1

NEED HELP WITH ASUS ROG ZEPHYRUS G501VIK

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Avoid liquid metal. Its not worth the massive risk in a laptop that always tilts. Use Kryonaut. Only 1-3C warmer than LM but safe and you won't kill the laptop with it

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that isn't melted pads it's thermal putty by all the looks of things. making a rough guess, i will say it wants 0.5mm pads.

 

if you can't tell whether that's copper or aluminium i seriously suggest you do a 1 second google search on what copper and aluminium look like. the coldplates are copper and the VRM plate is copper, the memory plate is aluminium

 

do not put liquid metal on the memory, do not put liquid metal on the VRM either unless you want your laptop to become very dead, very quickly.

 

putting liquid metal on a laptop at ALL is a bad idea due to the amount of things it can leak onto. it should be reserved only for the CPU and GPU and you should put on the barest of minimums to avoid any potential leakage, making sure to use a conformal coating of some kind on the surrounding area

 

I suggest you use something like Kryonaut or Noctua NT-H2 on the CPU and GPU instead. laptops are going to run hot no matter what you do and despite my best efforts to improve the TIM on mine, it still hits 92C when everything is at full load.


this post was sponsored by folding gang. fold today or be a virgin forever.

 

systems:

8700k/2080ti - 8350k/980ti - 4790k/1080ti - 4460/1070ti - r3600/v64 - p9950be/750ti

laptops:

8750h/1060 - 3200u/vIGPU

 

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Posted · Original PosterOP
On 4/4/2020 at 5:09 AM, yaboistar said:

that isn't melted pads it's thermal putty by all the looks of things. making a rough guess, i will say it wants 0.5mm pads.

 

if you can't tell whether that's copper or aluminium i seriously suggest you do a 1 second google search on what copper and aluminium look like. the coldplates are copper and the VRM plate is copper, the memory plate is aluminium

 

do not put liquid metal on the memory, do not put liquid metal on the VRM either unless you want your laptop to become very dead, very quickly.

 

putting liquid metal on a laptop at ALL is a bad idea due to the amount of things it can leak onto. it should be reserved only for the CPU and GPU and you should put on the barest of minimums to avoid any potential leakage, making sure to use a conformal coating of some kind on the surrounding area

 

I suggest you use something like Kryonaut or Noctua NT-H2 on the CPU and GPU instead. laptops are going to run hot no matter what you do and despite my best efforts to improve the TIM on mine, it still hits 92C when everything is at full load.

Thanks for the quick reply. I had already order more Kryonaut and .5 mm  % Thermal Grizzly Minus Pad 8 and it's about to be here today. I also did google what size pad I need and didnt find anything. If .05 doesnt fit, can I stack them on top of each other? I'm assuming not since air bubble will most likely get in there but just wondering so I dont have to re order them. And is thermal pads better than the putty stuff or do I need to get more thermal putty? Im mainly doing this cuz my cpu temps hit 95, max 98°C when I play doom eternal on the top settings. It doesnt lag at all but my laptop gets super hot after a while. I use XTU to undervolt and it still got to 95° on 2 of the 4 cores.

And I assumed it would be a bad idea to use liquid metal on the gpu chips.

 

Again thanks for the help!. 

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Posted · Original PosterOP
1 minute ago, iHacKZz_v1 said:

Thanks for the quick reply. I had already order more Kryonaut and .5 mm  % Thermal Grizzly Minus Pad 8 and it's about to be here today. I also did google what size pad I need and didnt find anything. If .05 doesnt fit, can I stack them on top of each other? I'm assuming not since air bubble will most likely get in there but just wondering so I dont have to re order them. And is thermal pads better than the putty stuff or do I need to get more thermal putty? Im mainly doing this cuz my cpu temps hit 95, max 98°C when I play doom eternal on the top settings. It doesnt lag at all but my laptop gets super hot after a while. I use XTU to undervolt and it still got to 95° on 2 of the 4 cores.

And I assumed it would be a bad idea to use liquid metal on the gpu chips.

 

Again thanks for the help!. 

Sorry .5** not .05

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9 minutes ago, iHacKZz_v1 said:

Thanks for the quick reply. I had already order more Kryonaut and .5 mm  % Thermal Grizzly Minus Pad 8 and it's about to be here today. I also did google what size pad I need and didnt find anything. If .05 doesnt fit, can I stack them on top of each other? I'm assuming not since air bubble will most likely get in there but just wondering so I dont have to re order them. And is thermal pads better than the putty stuff or do I need to get more thermal putty? Im mainly doing this cuz my cpu temps hit 95, max 98°C when I play doom eternal on the top settings. It doesnt lag at all but my laptop gets super hot after a while. I use XTU to undervolt and it still got to 95° on 2 of the 4 cores.

And I assumed it would be a bad idea to use liquid metal on the gpu chips.

 

Again thanks for the help!. 

laptops will run hot no matter what so don't expect a huge improvement

 

if it's putty then 0.5mil should fit but yeah it's better to just order 1mil pads rather than double up if it doesn't fit. however, considering how squashed the putty was it should be fine as 0.5mil


this post was sponsored by folding gang. fold today or be a virgin forever.

 

systems:

8700k/2080ti - 8350k/980ti - 4790k/1080ti - 4460/1070ti - r3600/v64 - p9950be/750ti

laptops:

8750h/1060 - 3200u/vIGPU

 

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Is it orange? its cooper.

Is it not orange? It is not cooper, could be aluminium or nickel but most likely aluminium. 

 

Liquid metal corrodes both cooper and aluminium. 

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Posted · Original PosterOP
4 hours ago, yaboistar said:

laptops will run hot no matter what so don't expect a huge improvement

 

if it's putty then 0.5mil should fit but yeah it's better to just order 1mil pads rather than double up if it doesn't fit. however, considering how squashed the putty was it should be fine as 0.5mil

Okay so I replaced it all with .5 pads. Made sure it was all touching and it's all on point. But why I run Doom Eternal on top settings, my CPU still get super hot.... 

Core #0 hit 98°

Core #1 hit 93°

Core #2 hit 95°

Core #3 hit 92°

I made sure I applied the right thermal paste and cut the thermal pads to the correct sizes. Is there a reason this it's still running so hot? 

 

Specs are:

Core i7 7700HQ

NVIDIA GTX 1080 Max-Q

 Any reason this is happening? Maybe it's just the layout of the laptop is horrible. The cpu and gpu are right next to each other in the middle and so are the gpu chips. I'm really not sure why it runs so hot. 

 

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Posted · Original PosterOP
1 minute ago, iHacKZz_v1 said:

Okay so I replaced it all with .5 pads. Made sure it was all touching and it's all on point. But why I run Doom Eternal on top settings, my CPU still get super hot.... 

Core #0 hit 98°

Core #1 hit 93°

Core #2 hit 95°

Core #3 hit 92°

I made sure I applied the right thermal paste and cut the thermal pads to the correct sizes. Is there a reason this it's still running so hot? 

 

Specs are:

Core i7 7700HQ

NVIDIA GTX 1080 Max-Q

 Any reason this is happening? Maybe it's just the layout of the laptop is horrible. The cpu and gpu are right next to each other in the middle and so are the gpu chips. I'm really not sure why it runs so hot. 

 

But when I run Doom Eternal***

 

And I used Kryonaut for the CPU and GPU and thermal pads just for the GPU Ram chips. 

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Posted · Original PosterOP
7 hours ago, papajo said:

Is it orange? its cooper.

Is it not orange? It is not cooper, could be aluminium or nickel but most likely aluminium. 

 

Liquid metal corrodes both cooper and aluminium. 

I'm pretty sure copper is fine with liquid metal. Its only aluminum that gets corroded

 

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Posted · Original PosterOP

After tweaking with this crap for hours, I finally figured out the issue. So the intel i7 7700HQ (Kaby Lake) processor is set to automatically over clock due to the shitty stock asus comman center app. Once I set my max processor to 99% in power settings and undervolting a little using Intel XTU, I'm getting 85°C average on all cores. I can run Doom Eternal on Ultra Nightmare at 120+ fps and maintain under 90°C. Turns out I probably never needed to even replace the thermal paste in the first place. Asus just has horrible software for controlling the cpu overclock. The only available options are "standard" and "extreme". There is no way to completely disable overclocking except by undervolting and setting processor max to 99%. 

 

Thanks to everyone who replied and I hope this helps the next person who has an issue with Asus Craptops!

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21 minutes ago, iHacKZz_v1 said:

After tweaking with this crap for hours, I finally figured out the issue. So the intel i7 7700HQ (Kaby Lake) processor is set to automatically over clock due to the shitty stock asus comman center app. Once I set my max processor to 99% in power settings and undervolting a little using Intel XTU, I'm getting 85°C average on all cores. I can run Doom Eternal on Ultra Nightmare at 120+ fps and maintain under 90°C. Turns out I probably never needed to even replace the thermal paste in the first place. Asus just has horrible software for controlling the cpu overclock. The only available options are "standard" and "extreme". There is no way to completely disable overclocking except by undervolting and setting processor max to 99%. 

 

Thanks to everyone who replied and I hope this helps the next person who has an issue with Asus Craptops!

well I guess  you had slightly better FPS before when your CPU was hitting 95C... the software overclocks the computer up to its thermal limits (or in other words to a temp that asus feels comfortable to keep it within warranty.) 

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8 hours ago, papajo said:

Is it orange? its cooper.

Is it not orange? It is not cooper, could be aluminium or nickel but most likely aluminium. 

 

Liquid metal corrodes both cooper and aluminium. 

Liquid metal does NOT corrode copper!  it only tarnishes it.  It corrodes aluminum.  However if the fit is not completely perfectly flat and solid and you don't use a foam dam, the gallium could get absorbed into the copper, leaving hardened indium and tin with bad uneven heat transfer which will hurt temps.

 

I have LM on my reference Vega 64 heatsink and that's copper.  No issues (molded die).  I also have LM on my MSI throttlebook, copper heatsink (no issues but had to do work to retard the gallium absorption and indium hardening).

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16 minutes ago, Falkentyne said:

Liquid metal does NOT corrode copper!  it only tarnishes it.  It corrodes aluminum.  However if the fit is not completely perfectly flat and solid and you don't use a foam dam, the gallium could get absorbed into the copper, leaving hardened indium and tin with bad uneven heat transfer which will hurt temps.

 

I have LM on my reference Vega 64 heatsink and that's copper.  No issues (molded die).  I also have LM on my MSI throttlebook, copper heatsink (no issues but had to do work to retard the gallium absorption and indium hardening).

And that is because you say it is so? 

 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liquid_metal

 

Gallium corrodes all metals except tungsten and tantalum furthermore I have linked some examples of corrosion in this topic.

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1 hour ago, papajo said:

And that is because you say it is so? 

 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liquid_metal

 

Gallium corrodes all metals except tungsten and tantalum furthermore I have linked some examples of corrosion in this topic.

Please READ the source you said.

REACT is NOT the same thing as CORRODE.  Gallium corrodes aluminum, destroying its atomic structure.  It does NOT corrode copper.

Gallium and copper have a battery effect.  Gallum will slowly diffuse into copper until the battery balance is close to 0 and the diffusion stops.  The problem with copper is, this absorption effect is increased by high heat and greatly accelerated by oxygen (oxidation), so you need an airtight barrier  If too much absorption occurs, the remaining indium and tin and partial gallium left over can no longer maintain its eutectic properties and it hardens up, creating hot spots and very bad temps.  But there are ways to prevent this from happening--e.g. baking a copper IHS with LM spread on it, in an oven at 100C for an hour, then removing the layer, but leaving the silver stain behind (the so-called "corroded" copper, by your own words), then reapplying a fresh layer on top of it, which leaves the battery effect very close to a nickel-gallium level, for example.

 

plenty of professional overclockers have used the same application of LM on copper heatsinks for years without needing to reapply.

I have my own liquid metal.  150 grams worth.

 

You may want to take your post over to notebookreview's clevo section and tell them this and you'll be chased right out of that forum by saying what you said here.

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8 minutes ago, Falkentyne said:

Please READ the source you said.

REACT is NOT the same thing as CORRODE. 

didnt read after that just control+F in the wikipedia article and paste: Gallium is corrosive to all metals except tungsten and tantalum

 

it will lead you to the point where it states exactly that word for word.

 

Edit and practically speaking reacting is the same as corroding since after a reaction the initial elements are not the same but form new elements with different properties.

 

edit2: and you continue to ignore the physical evidence (in the form of pictures and people reporting their issue) I provided. 

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4 minutes ago, papajo said:

didnt read after that just control+F in the wikipedia article and paste: Gallium is corrosive to all metals except tungsten and tantalum

 

it will lead you to the point where it states exactly that word for word.

Liquid metal is not 'gallium'.  Just for your information.  And that is a "Wiki" article.  Anyone can edit a wiki article just for your information.

You need to take a course in chemistry and learn the difference between reaction and corrosion.

 

It's extremely immature to post a wiki article then act like you know more about LM than people who have worked with copper heatsinks and IHS's for years, which I seriously doubt you have.

 

And can you please explain to me why my three LM'd heatsinks and IHS have not completely corroded to dust and my temps have been stable for more than 6 months?


I'm waiting.

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Just now, Falkentyne said:

Liquid metal is not 'gallium'.  Just for your information.  And that is a "Wiki" article.  Anyone can edit a wiki article just for your information.

You need to take a course in chemistry and learn the difference between reaction and corrosion.

 

And can you please explain to me why my three LM'd heatsinks and IHS have not completely corroded to dust and my temps have been stable for more than 6 months?


I'm waiting.

conductonaut is liquid metal lol 

 

you are just self absorbed trying to twist things to death you are just wrong accept it

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7 minutes ago, Falkentyne said:

You still have refused to answer my question.  I'm done with you.  Have a nice day.

What question? you are just saying nonsense

 

a) the issue of the argument is if conductonaut does anything to copper

 

b) Conductonaut is liquidmetal that contains mainly gallium 

 

c) I presented to you PHYSICAL PROOF of it corroding  stuff and a WIKIPEDIA (not wikileaks) article stating exactly that word by word

 

d) you are ignoring the physical proof as if it never was presented and are saying that wikipedia is wrong and you are right because of ...reasons... besides me being a physicist and totally sure about what I am saying on this topic (although it belongs more to chemistry but its a rather elementary thing for any guy who studies physical sciences cuz he/she knows or atleast is able to understand after researching for it for a few seconds) while showing your ignorance by confusing things that can not be confused unless one is ignorant on the subject. 

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18 minutes ago, papajo said:

And can you please explain to me why my three LM'd heatsinks and IHS have not completely corroded to dust and my temps have been stable for more than 6 months?

Oh sorry this question you mean? well I didn't read it but the answer is rather simple corrosion doesn't necessarily appear instantly other factors (e.g purity of the heatsink metal, density, flatness of its surface,temperatures,quantity of liquid metal used pressure etc) can affect its speed check again after a year, also after that back an forth I am not sure if you can detect corrosion if its not severe. 

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