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RTX 2060 problems

Schlegell

Hello

 

at this point I don't know where else to turn. So basically I have an old computer we are talking I7 4790, ASrock Z97 killer motherboard, and GTX 760 GPU and a 600W AEROcool strike x 80 plus bronze PSU. So my GPU started failing around Q4 2019 I baked it so it worked again and worked for over 4 months now but i decided to buy a RTX 2060. for 14 days it ran like a charm then it just stopped working PC doesn't even turn on. I don't know how to describe it but when u press the power button it just stutters a bit, looks like it will turn on for a sec but then dies completely. At this point I tried re-slotting the GPU, reinstalling updates... I am in no position to really throw money away but I need this GPU to work because i'm a student. I am suspecting the old PSU but i'm not sure and I am not willing to throw out 150€ to find out. Would really appreciate any help, tips how to test it, literally anything.

 

Thanks in advance.

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sounds like the PSU

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 10 and Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

How many watts do I needATX 3.0 & PCIe 5.0 spec, PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

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10 minutes ago, Schlegell said:

Hello

 

at this point I don't know where else to turn. So basically I have an old computer we are talking I7 4790, ASrock Z97 killer motherboard, and GTX 760 GPU and a 600W AEROcool strike x 80 plus bronze PSU. So my GPU started failing around Q4 2019 I baked it so it worked again and worked for over 4 months now but i decided to buy a RTX 2060. for 14 days it ran like a charm then it just stopped working PC doesn't even turn on. I don't know how to describe it but when u press the power button it just stutters a bit, looks like it will turn on for a sec but then dies completely. At this point I tried re-slotting the GPU, reinstalling updates... I am in no position to really throw money away but I need this GPU to work because i'm a student. I am suspecting the old PSU but i'm not sure and I am not willing to throw out 150€ to find out. Would really appreciate any help, tips how to test it, literally anything.

 

Thanks in advance.

Sounds to me like a faulty PSU. If the PC will not even turn on, it is unlikely the GPU is at fault. If the GPU was faulty, you would at least get the PC to boot, and you could try to plug the monitor into the onboard video.

 

Especially because you upgraded to a more powerful GPU, likely the PSU cannot supply stable power.

 

A decent quality PSU can be bought for around 50 EUR, so no reason not to try and fix it. Buy it from a place where you can return it if that turns out not to be the fix.

 

Something like this: https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/kCtQzy/evga-br-500w-80-bronze-certified-atx-power-supply-100-br-0500-k1

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takle the card out and run the iGPU, does that work?

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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1 minute ago, maartendc said:

Sounds to me like a faulty PSU. If the PC will not even turn on, it is unlikely the GPU is at fault. If the GPU was faulty, you would at least get the PC to boot, and you could try to plug the monitor into the onboard video.

 

Especially because you upgraded to a more powerful GPU, likely the PSU cannot supply stable power.

 

A decent quality PSU can be bought for around 50 EUR, so no reason not to try and fix it. Something like this: https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/kCtQzy/evga-br-500w-80-bronze-certified-atx-power-supply-100-br-0500-k1

 

1 minute ago, Jurrunio said:

takle the card out and run the iGPU, does that work?

The PC turns on just okay if i leave the GPU in the PCIe slot and just disconnect the 8 pin from the GPU, and also if I run it from the onboard HDMI turns on just fine aswell, so it's safe to say it's the PSU?

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Just now, Schlegell said:

The PC turns on just okay if i leave the GPU in the PCIe slot and just disconnect the 8 pin from the GPU, and also if I run it from the onboard HDMI turns on just fine aswell, so it's safe to say it's the PSU?

Could be PSU killing the card, could be just bad luck with cards. Good PSU wont cost nearly as much as a card though so I'd still replace the PSU

 

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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Probably going to buy a PSU now and if it doesn't work i'll just put the GPU in the oven. Thanks a lot guys.

 

EDIT: And 650W PSU should be enough?

 

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3 minutes ago, Schlegell said:

Probably going to buy a PSU now and if it doesn't work i'll just put the GPU in the oven. Thanks a lot guys.

 

NO, don't put a new GPU in the oven, it'll get worse before it gets better. 

3 minutes ago, Schlegell said:

EDIT: And 650W PSU should be enough?

 

A 450 watt PSU will be enough. Get a high quality PSU, around 450 to 550 watts.

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 10 and Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

How many watts do I needATX 3.0 & PCIe 5.0 spec, PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

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2 minutes ago, Fasauceome said:

NO, don't put a new GPU in the oven, it'll get worse before it gets better. 

A 450 watt PSU will be enough. Get a high quality PSU, around 450 to 550 watts.

Im looking at a Cooler master MWE BRONZE 550W 80+ ?

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Just now, Schlegell said:

Im looking at a Cooler master MWE BRONZE 550W 80+ ?

The MWE V2 is worth considering, but not the V1.

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 10 and Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

How many watts do I needATX 3.0 & PCIe 5.0 spec, PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

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Buy a good power supply so you don’t have to worry about stuff like this. Don’t cheap out on it and buy a quality unit from the tier list. 

No cpu mobo or ram atm

2tb wd black gen 4 nvme 

2tb seagate hdd

Corsair rm750x 

Be quiet 500dx 

Gigabyte m34wq 3440x1440

Xbox series x

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30 minutes ago, Schlegell said:

 

The PC turns on just okay if i leave the GPU in the PCIe slot and just disconnect the 8 pin from the GPU, and also if I run it from the onboard HDMI turns on just fine aswell, so it's safe to say it's the PSU?

Yes, sounds like the PSU for sure. Faulty GPU's rarely cause a system not to boot at all, they will just not show an image, but the PC should boot.

25 minutes ago, Schlegell said:

Probably going to buy a PSU now and if it doesn't work i'll just put the GPU in the oven. Thanks a lot guys.

 

EDIT: And 650W PSU should be enough?

 

DONT put a GPU in the oven. I am not sure where this idea took hold, probably a dumb LTT video. If the card is super old, and it is 100 % not working anymore, AND you are not using the same oven to cook food, sure, go for it.

 

But WHY would you do that to a GPU that is probably still under warranty?? Just return it to the manufacturer for a replacement!

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32 minutes ago, Fasauceome said:

The MWE V2 is worth considering, but not the V1.

Thanks, note taken.

16 minutes ago, maartendc said:

Yes, sounds like the PSU for sure. Faulty GPU's rarely cause a system not to boot at all, they will just not show an image, but the PC should boot.

DONT put a GPU in the oven. I am not sure where this idea took hold, probably a dumb LTT video. If the card is super old, and it is 100 % not working anymore, AND you are not using the same oven to cook food, sure, go for it.

 

But WHY would you do that to a GPU that is probably still under warranty?? Just return it to the manufacturer for a replacement!

I did it with the GTX 760 and it worked, that's why I considered it. About the manufacturer in my country you can't really do that in my knowledge. And don't really know how to return a card to ZOTAC if it's faulty 

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On 3/30/2020 at 6:39 PM, Schlegell said:

Thanks, note taken.

I did it with the GTX 760 and it worked, that's why I considered it. About the manufacturer in my country you can't really do that in my knowledge. And don't really know how to return a card to ZOTAC if it's faulty 

Just look on Zotac's website: they have support websites for most European countries (I assume you are in Europe given the price in euros):

 

For example German website:

https://www.zotac.com/de/support#contact

 

You just send them a support request through their website, and I am sure they will ask you to send the GPU back to them for a repair or replacement. Most electronics companies have a system like this nowadays (and you shouldnt buy from a manufacturer who doesn't).

 

Standard warranty by law for all electronics in Europe is 2 years. Since it is a 2060, I assume it was bought less than 2 years ago. Not offering warranty replacement would be illegal within the EU.

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