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Codquag

Bought a 1080ti 2nd hand with artifacting, thoughts?

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Posted · Original PosterOP

Specs:

4770k

Gigabyte board

Zotac GTX 1080ti AMP EXTREME

Samsung 860 500gb

Seagate 1tb Hdd

Corsair HX1000

 

Computer keeps crashing after a couple minutes of running a load and maybe 10 minutes without a load, can see artifacting before either the application closes or computer crashes. Running Unigine Valley to stress test the GPU.

 

Previously had 2 GTX 980 in sli and thought it was the old drivers messing with it so ran DDU in safe mode and the problem almost seems worse after reinstalling the correct drivers again.

 

I've read the the PSU might be the problem, the HX1000 I have I bought off ebay so maybe it could be bad. I have an EVGA 750B2 that I bought brand new so maybe switching it out could help but I've never seen artifacting due to a PSU before, doesnt mean that I'm wrong thought lol.

 

I've attached a couple pics of the artifacting I've seen. From what I can tell the GPU is dying and I've seen somewhere that boosting the power limit on the card could help but I'm doubtful.

 

The card was bought from Microcenter and I have the receipt for it but I'm not sure how their 2nd hand warranties work. Any insight/help is much appreciated.

 

Tldr: bought 2nd hand 1080ti and it has artifacting and crashes a lot.

20200302_220407.jpg

Snapchat-623050952.jpg

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Did you DDU your graphics drivers before installing the 1080ti?


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Well, seems kinda dead to me, but test with the other PSU just to be safe, at which point go in for a refund


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4 minutes ago, Codquag said:

Previously had 2 GTX 980 in sli and thought it was the old drivers messing with it so ran DDU in safe mode and the problem almost seems worse after reinstalling the correct drivers again.

 

Just now, SpookyCitrus said:

Did you DDU your graphics drivers before installing the 1080tis?

 


Bethesda PC:   R7 3700X  -  Crosshair VIII hero  -  Corsair Vengeance RGB 16GB@3.2GHz -  Strix 1070Ti  -  Samsung 860 Evo 256GB  -  WD Blue 2TB SSD -  Lian Li PC-011D  -  H100i RGB Platinum SE  -  Rm650x

CrumpleBox V3:  Xeon X5680  -  Asus X58 Sabertooth  -  DDr3 16GB@1.33Ghz  -  PNY OC GTX 1060 3GB- XFX Ghost HD 7770 -  TT smart RGB 700W  -  

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5 minutes ago, Codquag said:

The card was bought from Microcenter and I have the receipt for it but I'm not sure how their 2nd hand warranties work. Any insight/help is much appreciated.

Did you check if it was still within manufacturer warranty?


I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k (won) - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Kill Trident Z RGB - Force MP500 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - The venerated Hyper 212 Evo (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G2 650W - Black and green theme, Razer branwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

Linux Proliant ML150 G6:

Dual Xeon X5560 - 24GB ECC DDR3 - GTX 750 TI - old Seagate 1.5TB HDD - Dark moded Ubuntu (and Win7, cuz why not)

 

EVGA G3 threadSeasonic Focus threadUserbenchmark (Et al.) is trash explained, PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

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Posted · Original PosterOP
1 minute ago, SpookyCitrus said:

Did you DDU your graphics drivers before installing the 1080tis?

No I did not 

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Posted · Original PosterOP
Just now, Fasauceome said:

Did you check if it was still within manufacturer warranty?

Not yet but I think the way zotac does rma is that you have to go through where it was originally bought

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4 minutes ago, Codquag said:

No I did not 

Install DDU and run it, it will uninstall all graphics drivers from your old cards and the new ones you installed for the 1080ti so there is no chance for corruption or driver incompatibility. After you run DDU, use Geforce Experience to install the latest drivers. If it still has the issue after that then it is a dead GPU and you should return it to microcenter ASAP.


Main Desktop: Cpu - I9-9900k @5ghz | Mobo - Gigabyte Z390 Aorus Master | Gpu - Asus ROG STRIX 2080ti OC Ram - G.Skill Trident Z RGB 16GB 3200mhz | Aio - H100i Pro RGB | Psu - Evga 850 G3 | Case - Fractal Design Meshify C White | Storage - Samsung 970 Pro M.2 NVME SSD 1x 1TB 1x 512GB / 1x Seagate Ironwolf Pro 4TB HDD |

 

TV Streaming PC: Intel Nuc CPU - i7 8th Gen | RAM - 16GB DDR4 2666mhz | Storage - 256GB WD Black M.2 NVME SSD |

 

Phone: Samsung Galaxy S10+ - Ceramic White 512GB |

 

If you ask for a Mid Tower case recommend, I will 90% of the time recommend the Fractal Design Meshify C or S2.

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This GPU seems to be dead. In my country the store still has to legally offer a one year waranty even on second hand items as they can't just sell you a broken item, so I would return it to the store for a refund. I don't know how it is in the US tho


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10 minutes ago, Codquag said:

Not yet but I think the way zotac does rma is that you have to go through where it was originally bought

then you should take it back to the store and have them reimburse you. Their warranty services may be lacking but if the item is defective the least they have to do is give a refund.


I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k (won) - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Kill Trident Z RGB - Force MP500 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - The venerated Hyper 212 Evo (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G2 650W - Black and green theme, Razer branwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

Linux Proliant ML150 G6:

Dual Xeon X5560 - 24GB ECC DDR3 - GTX 750 TI - old Seagate 1.5TB HDD - Dark moded Ubuntu (and Win7, cuz why not)

 

EVGA G3 threadSeasonic Focus threadUserbenchmark (Et al.) is trash explained, PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

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I think you have a 15 day return window, so I'd just go get your money back. I highly doubt it's the PSU.


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PSU: Thermaltake TR2 Case: Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ITX

Monitor: Dell P2214H x2 Mouse: Logitech MX Master Keyboard: G.Skill KM780 Cherry MX Red

 

 

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If by second hand you mean something like craigslist then the most probable scenario is that you got scammed... 

 

Because even if it had a warranty it would be void because the previous owner obviously briged it during OCing it maybe tempered with HWmods,voltages,bios mods etc and couldnt get to RMA it thus tried to scam somebody by selling it to him. 

 

having said that what you could try is a) check the temps of your system during a benchmark if they are too high try to clean the cooler, reapply paste and change the pads for the memory and vrm

 

b) DDU your system

 

c) try it on a different Power supply (if its hard to try on a friends power supply then try using a different cable from your own power supply until you find one that could donate you a PSU for testing or allow you to try your card in his system) also be sure you connect all the power supply cables your card probably has two 8 pin connectors they both need to be connected. 

 

If nothing of the sort works then you briged your card and without a receipt you probably wont get into warranty... I am sorry m8 next time if you have to go 2nd hand try to do that at places that offer some sort of buyer protection and be sure the seller has a good feedback. 

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Have you tried running the card in debug mode?

Some factory overclocks don't seem to do well with age.

I know my Gigabyte GTX 1080 Xtreme had more issues as it go older and now sits in a box. The EVGA 1080 SC card I bought at the same time still runs stock but there is zero overclocking headroom on it now.  

debug.jpg.b195ae493140c9f971b9242335a5f22d.jpg

 

 


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RIG#2 CPU: Intel i7 8086k | Motherboard: ASUS ROG Maximus X Hero | RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 16GB DDR4 3200 | GPU: EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 ti XC | PSU: Corsair RMx1000W | Case: Cooler Master HAF X | Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 | SSD#1: Crucial MX300 2.5" 1TB | SSD#2: Crucial MX500 2.5" 1TB | Monitor: LG 55" 4k B9 OLED TV  

 

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Posted · Original PosterOP

Pretty sure I found the problem, the gold plating on the pins are scratched. Is this fixable, or can I RMA it. I have the receipt for the card. I talked to the guy I bought it from and he said he didnt want to give me my money back so am I gucked?

20200305_220240.jpg

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3 minutes ago, Codquag said:

Pretty sure I found the problem, the gold plating on the pins are scratched. Is this fixable, or can I RMA it. I have the receipt for the card. I talked to the guy I bought it from and he said he didnt want to give me my money back so am I gucked?

20200305_220240.jpg

eBay guarantees a refund even is the seller refuses to pay. The seller will likely be banned if eBay finds after evaluation that they sold you a damaged card and refused to refund the money.

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Posted · Original PosterOP
27 minutes ago, KnowledgeByTech said:

eBay guarantees a refund even is the seller refuses to pay. The seller will likely be banned if eBay finds after evaluation that they sold you a damaged card and refused to refund the money.

Unfortunately I did not buy the card off of ebay but instead off of Facebook marketplace. I had the seller sign a paper saying the card was in working order and he said he doesnt feel that he has to give me my money back because I "looked the card up and down" when I bought it and didnt notice it because I wasnt looking for it. I don't know what the laws are in the U.S. for stuff like that but my main question would be can I rma it or repair it as it sits.

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22 minutes ago, Codquag said:

Unfortunately I did not buy the card off of ebay but instead off of Facebook marketplace. I had the seller sign a paper saying the card was in working order and he said he doesnt feel that he has to give me my money back because I "looked the card up and down" when I bought it and didnt notice it because I wasnt looking for it. I don't know what the laws are in the U.S. for stuff like that but my main question would be can I rma it or repair it as it sits.

But are you sure though that you are not the one who did the damage? 

 

As for the scratched pins they are fixable but only if you know what you are doing and since you asked if they are fixable I assume you do not so that leaves you to go to an electronics repair shop and ask them to resolder them. (ask for prices first since those kind of shops may have a lot different charging policies ) 

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