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Best case scenario, the fuse is broken in the power supply.  You could open it up and replace the fuse. However that would void the warranty

Most likely though, a component failed inside the power supply, which caused the power supply to consume an excessive amount of energy for a few seconds, which caused the protection in your electrical panel to trigger and disconnect the electricity to protect the house wiring from overheating or getting damaged.

You would have to replace those broken components inside the psu and that's not something a beginner / amateur can do.

 

If the psu is still under warranty, return it for warranty, not much you can do.

 

It has nothing to do with 110v AC vs 220v AC - the psu is modern enough that it would work with around 90v AC ... 260v AC, it auto works in any country with voltage in that range.

 

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Posted · Original PosterOP

I built a PC in South Korea, in October 2017. This is a PCPartPicker link to all the specifications. I built it successfully and was able to play it from 2017 until late 2019, when me and my family had to move away to India. I should mention that South Korea uses 110 volts AC, and India uses 220.

 

So when I plugged the PC in directly, the lights flickered on and it worked for two seconds, then pop! Everything shut off. The PC had killed the power to the whole house! We had to call an electrician to reset the power, and then we pretended like it had never happened.

 

We bought a new power cord to replace the old one, and yesterday, attempted to turn it back on. We put the new power cord in through a surge protector and nothing happened - the PC didn't turn on. I believe the power supply was fried (even though it was rated from 100-240 V AC).

 

Should I do a paperclip test or just pay to replace it? For info, my power supply is a SeaSonic G 550 W, link here: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/DPCwrH/seasonic-power-supply-ssr550rm.

 

Paperclip test or declare it DOA and get a new one? It wouldn't be the hardest thing in the world, but it would just be annoying.


8 hours ago, aisle9 said:

A turd with an HDMI cable jammed into it is more powerful than a MacBook Air, and up until this year it had a better display, too.

☢️ Know Your Allergens: ☢️

Pollen | Plastic | Radiation | Antimatter

part list

 

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Posted · Best Answer

 

Best case scenario, the fuse is broken in the power supply.  You could open it up and replace the fuse. However that would void the warranty

Most likely though, a component failed inside the power supply, which caused the power supply to consume an excessive amount of energy for a few seconds, which caused the protection in your electrical panel to trigger and disconnect the electricity to protect the house wiring from overheating or getting damaged.

You would have to replace those broken components inside the psu and that's not something a beginner / amateur can do.

 

If the psu is still under warranty, return it for warranty, not much you can do.

 

It has nothing to do with 110v AC vs 220v AC - the psu is modern enough that it would work with around 90v AC ... 260v AC, it auto works in any country with voltage in that range.

 

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Posted · Original PosterOP
3 minutes ago, mariushm said:

Best case scenario, the fuse is broken in the power supply.  You could open it up and replace the fuse. However that would void the warranty

Most likely though, a component failed inside the power supply, which caused the power supply to consume an excessive amount of energy for a few seconds, which caused the protection in your electrical panel to trigger and disconnect the electricity to protect the house wiring from overheating or getting damaged.

You would have to replace those broken components inside the psu and that's not something a beginner / amateur can do.

 

If the psu is still under warranty, return it for warranty, not much you can do.

 

It has nothing to do with 110v AC vs 220v AC - the psu is modern enough that it would work with around 90v AC ... 260v AC, it auto works in any country with voltage in that range.

Thank you for your input! ? 

I won't bother with opening it up, I'll leave that to the pros.

A quick Google search shows that my PSU has a 5-year warranty, so I'll RMA it. The PSU is discontinued by SeaSonic, however, so I may also consider getting a new one. In any case, both of these methods mean that I'll have to unplug every cable and record which ones were unplugged. 

Right now, I don't have access to the manual or warranty documents yet. I did save them, so I should be able to get them once I return home. I'll post a detailed update once I'm home.

 

Once again, thank you!


8 hours ago, aisle9 said:

A turd with an HDMI cable jammed into it is more powerful than a MacBook Air, and up until this year it had a better display, too.

☢️ Know Your Allergens: ☢️

Pollen | Plastic | Radiation | Antimatter

part list

 

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