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Mangrovius

PC won't let me in Windows/Various crashes

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Posted · Original PosterOP

PLEASE NOTE: I don't know much about troubleshooting/fixing problems, so the steps I've taken might seem stupid. Sorry.

 

25-01: I installed the game Diablo 3 to my PC. When starting the game, it crashed my pc. No bluescreen, just shuts off as if the power got disconnected. After deleting D3Prefs.txt (the file that saves my ingame settings like resolution or anti aliassing), the problem was fixed.

 

26-01: When starting my computer again and launching Diablo 3, it crashed again. Deleting D3Prefs.txt fixed the problem again. I noticed that when starting Overwatch, I have the same problem with the same temporary fix. Contacted Blizzard support, couldn't come to a fix.

 

27-01: Noticed other games from Steam and RIOT games also crash my PC uppon startup (THIS DID NOT HAPPEN BEFORE 27-01). Weird. Unistalled graphics drivers, installed an older driver, still crashes. I did a system recovery back to 20-01, did not fix the problem.

 

28-01: When I started my PC and input my password, my PC crashed. Tried again, same result. Removed BIOS battery to clear CMOS. After that it wouldn't get me to the ''login'' screen for Windows. It would show me the Windows Icon, then that circling load icon, then another circling load icon without the windows icon above it, and when that one was done, I don't get a login screen. It just stays black. 

My computer has been working normally for about 3 months now (that's when I built it). Now I can't get into Windows and don't know what to do. I've tried:
 

  • Inserting the RAM in different slots/using only 1 stick.
  • Clearing CMOS
  • Different GPU Drivers
  • Disabling startup of all non microsoft services via MSConfig

 

My computer specifications:

 

GPU: GTX 1660 TI

CPU: i7-4790K

Motherboard: MSI Z97 Gaming 5

PSU: 650W EVGA (I think bronze)

Cooler: stock intel cooler (temps never went over 70 when playing games such as GTAV/Witcher 3)

RAM: Corsair Vengance 16GB (2x8)
Storage: 1 128GB SSD , 1 500GB HDD. Windows and drivers are installed on the SSD, games and other stuff on HDD

 

BIOS version: Honestly, I have no clue. It's either Version 1.0 or 1.D.

 

P.S. My motherboard shows certain numbers at the bottom. I have no clue what they are for but if they are important, the numbers shown are 28 or 34. If there is any additional information I should upload please let me know.

 

 

 

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2 minutes ago, RageTester said:

Well what about a theory that 1 RAM stick failed 1st, and days after 2nd died too.

If both sticks have failed the system wouldn't even POST.


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I wish all people would have this nice of a layout on thier posts when asking for help. And just as detailed.

Anyways.

I think the numbers that the motherboard is showing is the temperature of the CPU. The manual states that when the system has posted it will display the CPU temp.

 

What you can do is download Hirens BootCD and burn it to a USB drive with something like Rufus. This contains a mini version of windows and tools to check for disk errors. Boot to the USB and wait for the OS to fully startup. Then on the desktop there is a folder called "Ultilities". Open it and go to Hard Disk Tools>Diagnostics and then open WD Data Lifeguard Diagnostics. Then right-click on the drive where your OS is installed and select "Run Diagnostics". A pop-up box should appear and then you can press either "QUICK TEST" or "EXTENDED TEST". Quick test is fast, but doesn't scan everything. Extended test can take hours depending on the size of the drive, but covers everything.


Please ping or quote me if you want a response. :) 

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I just can't see a source then... but maybe it's a power supply problem. Can't believe he killed SSD in 3 months.

I misread info about the drive, so try windows startup repair...

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Looked up the POST codes you gave, 28 is related to CPU temps, 34 is for CPU post memory initalization, which with both codes things point to the CPU here.

 

I'd suggest ditching the stock cooler for something better, a good aircooler or an AIO would probrably do the trick based on the codes you gave.

 

I say that since the 28 code does indicate a temp problem and higher temps could be causing it to throw the other code because the CPU may be getting too hot to work properly at times, this problem symptom-wise showing up as a memory related issue pertaining to code 34.

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25 minutes ago, Beerzerker said:

Looked up the POST codes you gave, 28 is related to CPU temps, 34 is for CPU post memory initalization, which with both codes things point to the CPU here.

 

I'd suggest ditching the stock cooler for something better, a good aircooler or an AIO would probrably do the trick based on the codes you gave.

 

I say that since the 28 code does indicate a temp problem and higher temps could be causing it to throw the other code because the CPU may be getting too hot to work properly at times, this problem symptom-wise showing up as a memory related issue pertaining to code 34.

Slapping a better cooler on won't fix the issue. From what I've read in the manual for the specific motherboard is that the error codes shown is just the CPU temp as after it's done POSTing the LED debug display become a temp monitor.

Spoiler

image.png.253475194eef4cd6aaa6e6bc8b6c1a5d.png

 


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I'm not so sure about that with the codes seen.

You may be correct but one thing is certain, it would only help things to upgrade it's cooling since he's running a stock Intel cooler and those are known (NOT) to be great performers.

Either way the codes reported all point in the general direction of the CPU regardless of when these occur.

Can't hurt to try it and would only make things better anyway for the chip.

 

Even a cheaper cooler such as this: https://www.newegg.com/cooler-master-hyper-212-evo-rr-212e-20pk-r2/p/N82E16835103099 would be better than the stock Intel cooler itself.

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Posted · Original PosterOP
On 1/29/2020 at 10:57 AM, Uptivuptiz said:

I wish all people would have this nice of a layout on thier posts when asking for help. And just as detailed.

Anyways.

I think the numbers that the motherboard is showing is the temperature of the CPU. The manual states that when the system has posted it will display the CPU temp.

 

What you can do is download Hirens BootCD and burn it to a USB drive with something like Rufus. This contains a mini version of windows and tools to check for disk errors. Boot to the USB and wait for the OS to fully startup. Then on the desktop there is a folder called "Ultilities". Open it and go to Hard Disk Tools>Diagnostics and then open WD Data Lifeguard Diagnostics. Then right-click on the drive where your OS is installed and select "Run Diagnostics". A pop-up box should appear and then you can press either "QUICK TEST" or "EXTENDED TEST". Quick test is fast, but doesn't scan everything. Extended test can take hours depending on the size of the drive, but covers everything.

Did the extended test, it showed ''pass''. WHen pressing test results, it says ''The exception unknown software exception (0xc06d007e) occured in the application at location 0x00000000076B596C2.''

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1 hour ago, Mangrovius said:

Did the extended test, it showed ''pass''. WHen pressing test results, it says ''The exception unknown software exception (0xc06d007e) occured in the application at location 0x00000000076B596C2.''

Huh... That's weird. What you can try and do (this might not work since I've never tried it myself) is to startup on the USB, connect the PC to ethernet and download Minitool Partition Wizard. Then click "Launch Application".

Spoiler

image.png.689cacb22e83f2d3f9a9743f63118209.png

Now you will see all your drives and partitions. Right-click on the drive that contains Windows and then click "Surface Test".

Spoiler

image.thumb.png.1c64de70bd6dbce19d2532ddfa927421.png

Afterwards another window will pop-up. Just click "Start Now".

Spoiler

image.thumb.png.c44e1c8b0a76f3abf0a6df0ad8bcd3b9.png

The scan will then start (this will take a long time) and all the squares should (hopefully) turn green. If there's any red squares that might be an indication that the drive is going bad.


Please ping or quote me if you want a response. :) 

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Posted · Original PosterOP
16 hours ago, Uptivuptiz said:

Huh... That's weird. What you can try and do (this might not work since I've never tried it myself) is to startup on the USB, connect the PC to ethernet and download Minitool Partition Wizard. Then click "Launch Application".

  Reveal hidden contents

image.png.689cacb22e83f2d3f9a9743f63118209.png

Now you will see all your drives and partitions. Right-click on the drive that contains Windows and then click "Surface Test".

  Reveal hidden contents

image.thumb.png.1c64de70bd6dbce19d2532ddfa927421.png

Afterwards another window will pop-up. Just click "Start Now".

  Reveal hidden contents

image.thumb.png.c44e1c8b0a76f3abf0a6df0ad8bcd3b9.png

The scan will then start (this will take a long time) and all the squares should (hopefully) turn green. If there's any red squares that might be an indication that the drive is going bad.

I'm having a slight problem. the PENetwork thing isn't detecting my network card. I tried putting the Minipartition thing on the USB and then installing it, but the setup closes itself after selecting the language.

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2 hours ago, Mangrovius said:

I'm having a slight problem. the PENetwork thing isn't detecting my network card. I tried putting the Minipartition thing on the USB and then installing it, but the setup closes itself after selecting the language.

That is unfortunate... I don't really have any other ideas. Sorry.


Please ping or quote me if you want a response. :) 

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Posted · Original PosterOP
1 hour ago, Uptivuptiz said:

That is unfortunate... I don't really have any other ideas. Sorry.

Well Sh*t. What about reinstalling Windows and then downloading that partition tool to see if my drives dying? Would that be worth trying?

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2 minutes ago, Mangrovius said:

Well Sh*t. What about reinstalling Windows and then downloading that partition tool to see if my drives dying? Would that be worth trying?

It's an option, but whether it's worth it or not is up to you.


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Posted · Original PosterOP
Just now, Uptivuptiz said:

It's an option, but whether it's worth it or not is up to you.

That drive only has Windows and drivers on it anyway, it's not like I'll lose anything important.

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Just now, Mangrovius said:

That drive only has Windows and drivers on it anyway, it's not like I'll lose anything important.

Ok. Then I would recommend you do it just to be safe.


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Posted · Original PosterOP
Just now, Uptivuptiz said:

Ok. Then I would recommend you do it just to be safe.

I'll do that. Quick question though. When reinstalling Windows via USB, won't it ask me for a product key? How can I get that key back? Can I just use the same key twice or how does that work?

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1 minute ago, Mangrovius said:

I'll do that. Quick question though. When reinstalling Windows via USB, won't it ask me for a product key? How can I get that key back? Can I just use the same key twice or how does that work?

The key that you used when you first activated Windows is stored on the motherboard. If it prompts you to type it again just try and see if it accepts the same key, otherwise just skip activation. We can figure out the details about that later.


Please ping or quote me if you want a response. :) 

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Posted · Original PosterOP
1 hour ago, Uptivuptiz said:

The key that you used when you first activated Windows is stored on the motherboard. If it prompts you to type it again just try and see if it accepts the same key, otherwise just skip activation. We can figure out the details about that later.

Oh god. I downloaded the MediaCreationTool thing from Windows and put it on the USB. Whenever I try to install windows though, it says ''Windows cannot install required files. Make sure all files required for installation are available, and restart the installation. Error code 0x9007025D''.

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30 minutes ago, Mangrovius said:

Oh god. I downloaded the MediaCreationTool thing from Windows and put it on the USB. Whenever I try to install windows though, it says ''Windows cannot install required files. Make sure all files required for installation are available, and restart the installation. Error code 0x9007025D''.

Yeah then your SSD i faulty. I'd suggest you RMA it.


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Just now, Mangrovius said:

RMA?

If it's still under warrenty you can send it back to where you bought it from and get your money back, get it fixed or get a new one.


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Posted · Original PosterOP
34 minutes ago, Uptivuptiz said:

If it's still under warrenty you can send it back to where you bought it from and get your money back, get it fixed or get a new one.

Lol warranty ran out 12 days ago, guess I'm buying another. Thank you very much for the help, appreciate it.

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Posted · Original PosterOP
38 minutes ago, Uptivuptiz said:

If it's still under warrenty you can send it back to where you bought it from and get your money back, get it fixed or get a new one.

I just tried installing Windows to my HDD, that gives the same error message. Both drives died simultaniously?

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Just now, Mangrovius said:

I just tried installing Windows to my HDD, that gives the same error message. Both drives died simultaniously?

Huh......... Try another USB. Also download the MediaCreationTool again just to be safe.


Please ping or quote me if you want a response. :) 

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