Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...
K0rN b4LL

Power Supply questions

Recommended Posts

Posted · Original PosterOP

Got a few questions about power supplies.  Firstly what is the main difference between the form factors?  An article I read on Newegg (https://www.newegg.com/insider/how-to-choose-a-pc-power-supply-buying-guide/) that says the main ones are the ATX12V and EPS12V but I don't really understand what the difference is outside of different connector types.  Also for the motherboard I want (https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Motherboard/X570-AORUS-ELITE-rev-10#kf) it says it has both 24 pin and 8 pin connectors but only shows one connector in the picture.  Would both types just plug into the same spot?

 

Is there any real benefit to using a hardwired PSU vs a modular/hybrid?  Like how much more likely is it that a modular plug is gonna go bad versus a hard wired one?  I figure this is more down to the manufacturer but still.

 

How important are the higher level 80 PLUS ratings?  Would having a lower rating like bronze or silver have any negative effect vs a plat or titanium or is it just how much you wanna spend on the electric bill?

 

 

How do I determine if the 12V rails have the right wattage?  I've heard that they can be labeled differently on different PSU's and the labeled wattage doesn't always add up to the real total wattage so what should I be looking for?

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
7 minutes ago, K0rN b4LL said:

Firstly what is the main difference between the form factors?

size, get wht your case supports

 

7 minutes ago, K0rN b4LL said:

it says it has both 24 pin and 8 pin connectors but only shows one connector in the picture. 

You need both a 8 pin and 24 pin, every modern psu has this.

 

8 minutes ago, K0rN b4LL said:

Is there any real benefit to using a hardwired PSU vs a modular/hybrid? 

cheaper. Failure is uncommon and effiency difference is tiny.

 

8 minutes ago, K0rN b4LL said:

How important are the higher level 80 PLUS ratings?  Would having a lower rating like bronze or silver have any negative effect vs a plat or titanium or is it just how much you wanna spend on the electric bill?

Really just small power bill savings, probalby won't pay off. But normally higher 80+ is a just better built psu, but not alwys.

 

Whats youre system build?

 

YOur probably overthinking this. NOrmally just get a good 500-700w and your good.

Link to post
Share on other sites
2 minutes ago, K0rN b4LL said:

Firstly what is the main difference between the form factors?

Size and mounting way. Pick the one your case supports. Usually that will be ATX, but maybe SFX.

2 minutes ago, K0rN b4LL said:

but I don't really understand what the difference is outside of different connector types.  

Well that is the difference. The connector and thus the power that goes through it.

The 24 pin (ATX) is also what is used to turn on the PSU and is general board power, while the EPS is CPU power.

3 minutes ago, K0rN b4LL said:

Also for the motherboard I want (https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Motherboard/X570-AORUS-ELITE-rev-10#kf) it says it has both 24 pin and 8 pin connectors but only shows one connector in the picture.  Would both types just plug into the same spot?

They plug in here:

Spoiler

image.png.0fa94569b2c29c1eedcf93aba68ae2c1.png

 

5 minutes ago, K0rN b4LL said:

Is there any real benefit to using a hardwired PSU vs a modular/hybrid?  Like how much more likely is it that a modular plug is gonna go bad versus a hard wired one?  I figure this is more down to the manufacturer but still.

The benefit of modular is just ease of installation, or rather ease of cable management.

They don't tend to go bad, but you will have a warranty regardless.

6 minutes ago, K0rN b4LL said:

How important are the higher level 80 PLUS ratings?  Would having a lower rating like bronze or silver have any negative effect vs a plat or titanium or is it just how much you wanna spend on the electric bill?

The rating itself is not that important for quality, but only for power usage, but the difference won't be huge.

If you want more info, read this:

But the general gist (on 230V, 100% load): 

Bronze = 85% efficient

Gold = 89% efficient

Titanium = 94% efficient

Those won't be very large improvements, but may lower your power bill a couple of euros/dollars/whatever a year.

 

Don't choose a PSU based on efficiency though, pick a good one. 80+ is not an indication of quality, merely indication of efficiency. There are bad 80+ Gold units and good 80+ Bronze units  and vice-versa.

10 minutes ago, K0rN b4LL said:

How do I determine if the 12V rails have the right wattage?  I've heard that they can be labeled differently on different PSU's and the labeled wattage doesn't always add up to the real total wattage so what should I be looking for?

Most people won't have to worry about this at all, unless you're running weird configurations/heavy power draw components (like multiple GPU's or HEDT CPU's)


I apologize for the way I am. If my post seemed rude, that was not my intention. Just my ineptness in forming a nice coherent message.

"those times will never come back :("

"I wish I could find a way to end the pain, other than the way I keep thinking of"

Link to post
Share on other sites
37 minutes ago, K0rN b4LL said:

How important are the higher level 80 PLUS ratings?  Would having a lower rating like bronze or silver have any negative effect vs a plat or titanium or is it just how much you wanna spend on the electric bill?

Apart from saving a bit on power, it can also make the PSU quieter. Potentially by quite a lot, but it also depends on the heatsinks and fan.

 

Going from eg. 80% efficiency to 90% efficiency only saves you 11% on your power bill, but it cuts the heat generated inside the power supply in half (imagine the difference for a GPU or CPU cooler if you cut power consumption in half).

Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Original PosterOP
On 1/19/2020 at 4:20 PM, Electronics Wizardy said:

Whats youre system build?

 

I'm a bit a way off from saving enough $ so things might change.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Original PosterOP

How far above the estimated wattage should I look for?  Right now the system builder puts me at around 394W so should a 450ish be enough or should I be looking more for the 600+ range?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×