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Planning for a new build within $800 to $1000

vinaytrex

Hello Everyone,

Im planning to build a new pc for moderate gaming. but I'm gonna use it mainly for photoshop and minor premierepro/AE edits.

 

I have a basic understanding of things work inside the PC & I'm planning to stick with INTEL because of placebo reasons.

 

if you can help me build a new PC from scratch, i would really Appreciate it.

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need os/monitor/peripherals?

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X Heatsink: Gelid Phantom Black GPU: Palit RTX 3060 Ti Dual RAM: Corsair DDR4 2x8GB 3000Mhz mobo: Asus X570-P case: Fractal Design Define C PSU: Superflower Leadex Gold 650W

 

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PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i7-8700 3.2 GHz 6-Core Processor  ($309.99 @ Best Buy) 
Motherboard: MSI B360M BAZOOKA Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard  ($79.98 @ Amazon) 
Memory: GeIL EVO POTENZA 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory  ($58.99 @ Newegg) 
Storage: Silicon Power A80 512 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive  ($69.98 @ Amazon) 
Video Card: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2060 SUPER 8 GB Video Card  ($399.99 @ Best Buy) 
Case: CiT F3 MicroATX Mini Tower Case  ($25.18 @ Amazon) 
Power Supply: Corsair CX (2017) 550 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply  ($59.99 @ Corsair) 
Total: $1004.10
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-01-18 23:48 EST-0500

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X Heatsink: Gelid Phantom Black GPU: Palit RTX 3060 Ti Dual RAM: Corsair DDR4 2x8GB 3000Mhz mobo: Asus X570-P case: Fractal Design Define C PSU: Superflower Leadex Gold 650W

 

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I do not know about that ram and storage, i would build this:

15 hours ago, Herman Mcpootis said:

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i7-8700 3.2 GHz 6-Core Processor  ($309.99 @ Best Buy) 
Motherboard: MSI B360M BAZOOKA Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard  ($79.98 @ Amazon) 
Memory: GeIL EVO POTENZA 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory  ($58.99 @ Newegg) 
Storage: Silicon Power A80 512 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive  ($69.98 @ Amazon) 
Video Card: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2060 SUPER 8 GB Video Card  ($399.99 @ Best Buy) 
Case: CiT F3 MicroATX Mini Tower Case  ($25.18 @ Amazon) 
Power Supply: Corsair CX (2017) 550 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply  ($59.99 @ Corsair) 
Total: $1004.10
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-01-18 23:48 EST-0500

You forgot the cooler

I would recomend this build if you want to go intel

for 1050$ I'd get a i7 9700

 

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16 hours ago, vinaytrex said:

Hello Everyone,

Im planning to build a new pc for moderate gaming. but I'm gonna use it mainly for photoshop and minor premierepro/AE edits.

 

I have a basic understanding of things work inside the PC & I'm planning to stick with INTEL because of placebo reasons.

 

if you can help me build a new PC from scratch, i would really Appreciate it.

You must know, you a

 

re sacrificing a lot of performance by going with intel. at this price point amd is the way to go. For about the same price you get 8 cores instead of 6 and 16 threads instead of 6.

 

If I were you I would really consider this:

 

 

The mobo may need a bios update, if you go with this you must check that it is ryzen 3000 ready. That is if you do not have an am4 cpu with wi

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3 hours ago, filiboss123 said:

I do not know about that ram and storage, i would build this:

You forgot the cooler

I would recomend this build if you want to go intel

for 1050$ I'd get a i7 9700

 

You know this build you posted is just a universal downgrade compared to the one you quoted right?

 

Worse PSU

Worse Ram

Worse storage

Worse GPU

Worse CPU (you can argue clockspeed but threads are more important)

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11 minutes ago, GoldenLag said:

You know this build you posted is just a universal downgrade compared to the one you quoted right?

 

Worse PSU

Worse Ram

Worse storage

Worse GPU

Worse CPU (you can argue clockspeed but threads are more important)

you know that I was trying to keep it  under 1000$. and that I added something the other build did not have, a decent cooler.

the ram is not worse, intel unlike amd cpus do not benefit that much from high speed ram.

the cpu, gpu, storage and psu, are worse, I agree, however it was the best you can do for under 1000$.

The ssd provides good boot speeds, the cpu is good (the best you could do), the psu does the job (amd it is reliable) and for what he is planning on using the pc, a 1660ti is enough.

the other build did not even have a decent cooler!

 

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4 minutes ago, filiboss123 said:

you know that I was trying to keep it  under 1000$. and that I added something the other build did not have, a decent cooler.

The i7 8700 build is a lot better, it'd be better value add a 212 Black and similar cooler to it and go a bit over the 1k margin than do the pretty meaningful downgrade across the board you've made.

 

There's good value and there's cheap, no point in save a little more if you're getting considerably worse.

Personal Desktop":

CPU: Intel Core i7 10700K @5ghz |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock Pro 4 |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Z490UD ATX|~| RAM: 16gb DDR4 3333mhzCL16 G.Skill Trident Z |~| GPU: RX 6900XT Sapphire Nitro+ |~| PSU: Corsair TX650M 80Plus Gold |~| Boot:  SSD WD Green M.2 2280 240GB |~| Storage: 1x3TB HDD 7200rpm Seagate Barracuda + SanDisk Ultra 3D 1TB |~| Case: Fractal Design Meshify C Mini |~| Display: Toshiba UL7A 4K/60hz |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro.

Luna, the temporary Desktop:

CPU: AMD R9 7950XT  |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock 4 Pro |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Aorus Master |~| RAM: 32G Kingston HyperX |~| GPU: AMD Radeon RX 7900XTX (Reference) |~| PSU: Corsair HX1000 80+ Platinum |~| Windows Boot Drive: 2x 512GB (1TB total) Plextor SATA SSD (RAID0 volume) |~| Linux Boot Drive: 500GB Kingston A2000 |~| Storage: 4TB WD Black HDD |~| Case: Cooler Master Silencio S600 |~| Display 1 (leftmost): Eizo (unknown model) 1920x1080 IPS @ 60Hz|~| Display 2 (center): BenQ ZOWIE XL2540 1920x1080 TN @ 240Hz |~| Display 3 (rightmost): Wacom Cintiq Pro 24 3840x2160 IPS @ 60Hz 10-bit |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro (games / art) + Linux (distro: NixOS; programming and daily driver)
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6 minutes ago, Princess Luna said:

The i7 8700 build is a lot better, it'd be better value add a 212 Black and similar cooler to it and go a bit over the 1k margin than do the pretty meaningful downgrade across the board you've made.

 

There's good value and there's cheap, no point in save a little more if you're getting considerably worse.

I was trying do a build in his pricepoint, with well known brands which are known for reliability.

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20 hours ago, vinaytrex said:

Hello Everyone,

Im planning to build a new pc for moderate gaming. but I'm gonna use it mainly for photoshop and minor premierepro/AE edits.

 

I have a basic understanding of things work inside the PC & I'm planning to stick with INTEL because of placebo reasons.

 

if you can help me build a new PC from scratch, i would really Appreciate it.

If you are willing to push additional $233 this would be awesome build because well... everything. Its difficult sometimes meet exactly the price point.

 

PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/CymKcq

CPU: Intel Core i5-9600K 3.7 GHz 6-Core Processor  ($219.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U12S 55 CFM CPU Cooler  ($59.95 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock Z390 Pro4 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard  ($114.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Aegis 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory  ($62.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial P1 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive  ($99.99 @ B&H)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER 8 GB WINDFORCE OC 3X Video Card  ($499.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Focus G ATX Mid Tower Case  ($55.88 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair RM (2019) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply  ($119.99 @ Best Buy)
Total: $1233.77
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-01-19 19:13 EST-0500

 

 

 

 

To be an expert is to know more about less.

  • 2014 Build --> FX 8350 4.7GHz {} ASRock Fatal1ty 990FX Killer {} Reference GTX 980 4GB {} 2x4GB 1866MHz HyperX {} Seagate 2TB 7200rpm {} 840 EVO 120GB {} XFX PRO850W {} Noctua NH D14 {} Fractal Define R4 White Windowed
  • 2018 Build --> Ryzen 7 2700X {} ASRock Fatal1ty X470 Gaming K4 {} Gigabyte RTX 2070 8GB {} 2x8GB HX Fury 3200MHz {} Toshiba P300 2TB {} Kingston 480GB A1000 {} Corsair RM750W {} Enermax LIQMAX II 240 {} Fractal Focus G
  • 2021 Build --> Ryzen 9 5900X {} ASUS ROG Strix X570-F GAMING {} ASUS GeForce RTX 3080Ti ROG STRIX OC {} Gigabyte AORUS RGB DDR4 32GB {} Kingston KC2500 M.2 2280 NVMe 2TB {} Seasonic FOCUS GX-1000 {} ASUS ROG Ryujin 240 AIO {} NYXT H710i
  • Laptop --> ASUS ROG STRIX G713RS {} Ryzen 9 6900HX {} 32GB DDR5 {} RTX 3080 {} 1TB NVMe {} Win 11 Home
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6 minutes ago, filiboss123 said:

I was trying do a build in his pricepoint, with well known brands which are known for reliability.

There's no reason to follow the price limit literally if you can reason why spend more... Forum is for debate and keeping an open mind is beneficial, it's part to explain OP what is good value and what isn't.

 

Also your statement is false on the account Kingston is a shitty brand for SSD, without mention you chosen a pretty mediocre Power Supply regardless of branding... just to name some of the wrong choices.

 

I think deep down all you wanted to make was squeeze that bequiet! cooler in there with low effort on what you were pricing cut to accommodate it. That wasn't a smart move but you can always learn from it.

Personal Desktop":

CPU: Intel Core i7 10700K @5ghz |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock Pro 4 |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Z490UD ATX|~| RAM: 16gb DDR4 3333mhzCL16 G.Skill Trident Z |~| GPU: RX 6900XT Sapphire Nitro+ |~| PSU: Corsair TX650M 80Plus Gold |~| Boot:  SSD WD Green M.2 2280 240GB |~| Storage: 1x3TB HDD 7200rpm Seagate Barracuda + SanDisk Ultra 3D 1TB |~| Case: Fractal Design Meshify C Mini |~| Display: Toshiba UL7A 4K/60hz |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro.

Luna, the temporary Desktop:

CPU: AMD R9 7950XT  |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock 4 Pro |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Aorus Master |~| RAM: 32G Kingston HyperX |~| GPU: AMD Radeon RX 7900XTX (Reference) |~| PSU: Corsair HX1000 80+ Platinum |~| Windows Boot Drive: 2x 512GB (1TB total) Plextor SATA SSD (RAID0 volume) |~| Linux Boot Drive: 500GB Kingston A2000 |~| Storage: 4TB WD Black HDD |~| Case: Cooler Master Silencio S600 |~| Display 1 (leftmost): Eizo (unknown model) 1920x1080 IPS @ 60Hz|~| Display 2 (center): BenQ ZOWIE XL2540 1920x1080 TN @ 240Hz |~| Display 3 (rightmost): Wacom Cintiq Pro 24 3840x2160 IPS @ 60Hz 10-bit |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro (games / art) + Linux (distro: NixOS; programming and daily driver)
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7 minutes ago, Princess Luna said:

There's no reason to follow the price limit literally if you can reason why spend more... Forum is for debate and keeping an open mind is beneficial, it's part to explain OP what is good value and what isn't.

 

Also your statement is false on the account Kingston is a shitty brand for SSD, without mention you chosen a pretty mediocre Power Supply regardless of branding... just to name some of the wrong choices.

 

I think deep down all you wanted to make was squeeze that bequiet! cooler in there with low effort on what you were pricing cut to accommodate it. That wasn't a smart move but you can always learn from it.

well perhaps, sorry for that.  

was just trying to help.

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7 hours ago, filiboss123 said:

you know that I was trying to keep it  under 1000$

Then you only need to change the GPU......

Also 4$ and 10 cents isball that much to care about?

 

7 hours ago, filiboss123 said:

the ram is not worse, intel unlike amd cpus do not benefit that much from high speed ram.

Except they do benefit from it.

 

Also you payed more for worse Ram, so i dont see why you would do that. 

7 hours ago, filiboss123 said:

the psu does the job (amd it is reliable)

Its a worse PSU. 

 

Jusy fyi, the cxm and cx are two rather different PSUs. 

 

7 hours ago, filiboss123 said:

however it was the best you can do for under 1000$.

He is 4$ above 1000$...... You dont need to do a universal downgrade to make the budget work. 

 

7 hours ago, filiboss123 said:

the other build did not even have a decent cooler

 

True, tho the drp4 isnt neccesary. And you can make the stock cooler work. 

 

7 hours ago, filiboss123 said:

was trying do a build in his pricepoint, with well known brands which are known for reliability

Sorry if came off as a bit rude. 

 

But here is something worth noting about reliability and companies.

 

Just because the sticker on the box come from a brand you deem reliable, doesnt mean it is. 

 

Companies arent reliable, the induvidual parts are. As such one should disregard the sticker and just get the best you can afford. 

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AMD would be a way better buy. But if you wanna stick with Intel, here's a build.

 

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i7-8700 3.2 GHz 6-Core Processor  ($309.99 @ Best Buy) 
Motherboard: ASRock H370M Pro4 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard  ($84.99 @ Amazon) 
Memory: G.Skill Aegis 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory  ($64.99 @ Newegg) 
Storage: Silicon Power A80 512 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive  ($69.98 @ Amazon) 
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2060 SUPER 8 GB WINDFORCE OC Video Card  ($399.99 @ Amazon) 
Case: Cooler Master MasterBox Q300L MicroATX Mini Tower Case  ($44.99 @ Best Buy) 
Power Supply: Corsair CX (2017) 550 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply  ($59.99 @ Corsair) 
Total: $1034.92
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-01-20 11:03 EST-0500

SSD TIER LIST

 

 

CPU - Ryzen 7 3700X

Mobo - ASRock X470 Taichi

Memory - G.Skill Trident Z RGB (8x2 3200MHz) 

Storage - Sabrent Rocket 1TB - Seagate Barracuda 2TBWD Black 1TB

GPU - MSI GeForce GTX 980Ti LIGHTNING

CaseFractal Design Meshify C

PSUSuper Flower Leadex II Gold 650W

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