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Edgar R. Zakarian

Skoda fabia 2002, no oil (dipstick) but no oil warning? wtf

1 hour ago, Bombastinator said:

I’m doing it when I was told to by my mechanic.  I am only to add oil if it is below the minimum line.  The thing also gets its oil changed much more frequently now, and the weight of oil used was changed as well.  The car is on its last legs.  It’s worth barely more than it’s metal weight and needs to be junked.  I’m hoping to put that off till spring.

The problem with 'mechanics' is that it's not in their interests to tell you how to do things properly yourself.

 

As I said before, always check the oil when the engine is cold, even turning it over pumps oil up into the engine and leaves the level in the sump lower than it really is.  the minimum mark is exactly that... the absolute minimum you should have in the engine. You should never let it fall below that line... in fact you should keep it as close to the max level as possible at all times.  Get into the habit of doing weekly checks, take 10mins and go around and check tyre pressures (must also be done cold, as the air warms when driven and expands giving a false reading) and keep them a fraction above recommended... and if car is loaded, add about 4psi all round. Check all fluids, oils, washer, power steering, brake and clutch... and gearbox if it's an auto (which should be warmed up first). If the brake fluid has a green tinge to it, it's normally a sign of moisture in it, and it could do with a flush through. Check the water level in the radiator, and top of if needed and before winter, get it tested to make sure it's got enough antifreeze in it.  I'd also recommend doing the gearbox oil every 20k at least... especially on an auto... a knackered auto box is a car killer on anything over 10yrs old... Personally I can't stand them... less power, less reliable, fewer mpg's... they're not that common over here and 99% of people learn to drive in and own manual gearboxes... Auto's are for those that can't handle a manual... the older people and the disabled... and sometimes those that spend a lot of time on highways for work.

 

Also.. never use the manufacturer intervals for oil changes. The older the car, the more frequent you should change the oil... I tend to do mine every year regardless of miles done and I average about 6k a year in my main car, even less in my summer/weekend car.

 

If you're worried about oil burn, next time you take the car out for a run... when it's fully warmed up... give it a hard boot, not a gently acceleration... foot to the floor (when it's safe to do so of course) take the revs up high and keep an eye on the exhaust fumes... if you see smoke with a tinge of blue... Sure sign of burning oil. Most common issue is worn piston rings... but that doesn't mean you have to get them done... mild wear on a car with higher miles isn't uncommon and regular oil changes and checks is often all you really need on more modern cars.

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Posted · Original PosterOP

And engine seems to work fine. But there's no oil inside the car when I check the dipstick. 
If i open the lid on the engine, I can see some oil residue though.


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Posted · Original PosterOP
Just now, Dissitesuxba11s said:

It's running fine now but after a bit of time your engine will just shut off since the engine seized. Put oil in that engine unless you want a new car.

Yeah definitely doing that. Not starting the car again before I get some oil. But really weird that I got no warning light. Worries me a bit. 
Plus it's never used any oil before. So for it to get worn that fast and that much is a bit strange. (thinking piston rings, right?)


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Just now, Edgar R. Zakarian said:

Yeah definitely doing that. Not starting the car again before I get some oil. But really weird that I got no warning light. Worries me a bit. 
Plus it's never used any oil before. So for it to get worn that fast and that much is a bit strange. (thinking piston rings, right?)

Maybe the oil pressure sensor is out? Can you see if there is leaking somewhere? 

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Posted · Original PosterOP
Just now, Dissitesuxba11s said:

Maybe the oil pressure sensor is out? Can you see if there is leaking somewhere? 

oil pool below the car? Didn't notice any, but will definitely check. 
Engine has a plastic shield, so couldn't really see that ,but nothing obvious.

 


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Just now, Edgar R. Zakarian said:

oil pool below the car? Didn't notice any, but will definitely check. 
Engine has a plastic shield, so couldn't really see that ,but nothing obvious.

 

I would do an oil and filter change, and monitor oil level to see if you are burning oil. Hopefully it's nothing too bad.

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Oil warning lights are notorious for only turning on at last resort if it does at all, aka it's pretty much dry, and that's why you should check manually regularly...

you likely still have some oil left, below the stick but not low enough to trigger the sensor.


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Posted · Original PosterOP
2 minutes ago, Dissitesuxba11s said:

I would do an oil and filter change, and monitor oil level to see if you are burning oil. Hopefully it's nothing too bad.

Yeah I did that last january. So it's time. But still weird.


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Posted · Original PosterOP
1 minute ago, Kilrah said:

Oil warning lights are notorious for only turning on at last resort if it does at all, aka it's pretty much dry, and that's why you should check manually regularly...

you likely still have some oil left, below the stick but not low enough to trigger the sensor.

Really good to know. Thanks. 
I'll fill it up with some good Mobil 1 oil and monitor it once every two weeks and see what's going on. Or maybe once a month. 
It's really a lot of oil gone.


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My car burns oil and I am under orders to check the oil every time I fill the tank


Life is like a bowl of chocolates: there are all these little crinkly paper cups everywhere.

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Probably doesn't have a low oil level sensor. My 2004 Audi is the only car that I've dealt with that does.

 

It will however have an oil pressure light, that will turn on if oil isn't getting through the oil pump.(unless the light is burnt out)

If that light comes on, pull over asap and put oil in.

 

If you know the oil is low now, put oil in it before driving it. Going on hills or turns may cause the pump not not pickup oil and may cause the pressure light to come on.


Will work for electronic components and parts


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Posted · Original PosterOP
14 minutes ago, Bombastinator said:

My car burns oil and I am under orders to check the oil every time I fill the tank

Jesus christ dude :| I hope I'm not in that situation. 
I'll need to buy a 20L barrel to drive around xD


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Posted · Original PosterOP
28 minutes ago, t0wer said:

Probably doesn't have a low oil level sensor. My 2004 Audi is the only car that I've dealt with that does.

 

It will however have an oil pressure light, that will turn on if oil isn't getting through the oil pump.(unless the light is burnt out)

If that light comes on, pull over asap and put oil in.

 

If you know the oil is low now, put oil in it before driving it. Going on hills or turns may cause the pump not not pickup oil and may cause the pressure light to come on.

You're completely correct. That's what I intend to do. 
But before I drive it over to fill up the oil (buy the oil), I think I might have some 2-stroke oil. Think that'll hurt the car 80km/h for like 40 km? 
That's how far I am from the nearest shop currently. Just wanna fill like 100-200 mL until I buy the new oil and replace it. 

Don't know if there's a big difference between 2-stroke& 4-stroke(normal oil)

 

 

okay, so apparently NO, not short term anyway:

 


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There are MAJOR differences between 2 strokes and 4 stroke engines. DO NOT USE METHODS USED FOR OILING 2 STROKES ON 4 STROKE ENGINES. You add engine oil to your engine, not your fuel tank. Your car uses a synthetic oil, synthetic oil does not burn. Check your oil while car is parked on a flat surface, while engine is cold. DO NOT run your car if you dont even see oil mark on dipstick. Only use appropriate oil for your engine.


y'all need to poop more often.

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Your warning light will be a pressure warning, not level. You *should* be OK so long as there is oil pressure, however the oil also cools the internals of the engine so not having that volume of oil in the sump to transfer heat away isn't ideal. You may also loose pressure under braking or cornering as the oil sloshes away from the pickup.


Probably banned for disagreeing

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Posted · Original PosterOP

Thanks for all the input guys. 
Seems like the car might've burnt the oil. 

Cons: Engine might be getting worn, only 180.000 km :( 
Pros: I won't have to change the oil anymore, just fill it hahaha


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36 minutes ago, Edgar R. Zakarian said:

Thanks for all the input guys. 
Seems like the car might've burnt the oil. 

Cons: Engine might be getting worn, only 180.000 km :( 
Pros: I won't have to change the oil anymore, just fill it hahaha

It still may need  to be changed occasionally.  Depends on how the oil is disappearing


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3 hours ago, Edgar R. Zakarian said:

Yeah I did that last january. So it's time. But still weird.

Just as an aside to this conversation, even if you don't drive enough distance to warrant an oil change in a year, if you live in an area with seasonal climates, you should change your oil for every season (so, change it to winter oil in fall, and summer oil in spring) or every six months, at minimum.


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Posted · Original PosterOP
2 hours ago, straight_stewie said:

Just as an aside to this conversation, even if you don't drive enough distance to warrant an oil change in a year, if you live in an area with seasonal climates, you should change your oil for every season (so, change it to winter oil in fall, and summer oil in spring) or every six months, at minimum.

Our climate goes from +5c to +30c total lately xD that's really a pretty small span. Haven't had snow for more than a week the last 2 years. 


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On 1/17/2020 at 3:26 PM, Bombastinator said:

My car burns oil and I am under orders to check the oil every time I fill the tank

I hope you are checking the oil before you start the car at all... and not after you've driven it to the pumps... because that's a sure fire way to overfill the oil which can cause as many issues as letting it run low.

 

Oil must be checked when the engine is cold and has been standing for a few hrs after being last driven, it also needs to be on the flat/level.

 

Autobox oil on the other hand, should always be checked when the car is warmed up properly.


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3 minutes ago, Anomnomnomaly said:

I hope you are checking the oil before you start the car at all... and not after you've driven it to the pumps... because that's a sure fire way to overfill the oil which can cause as many issues as letting it run low.

 

Oil must be checked when the engine is cold and has been standing for a few hrs after being last driven, it also needs to be on the flat/level.

 

Autobox oil on the other hand, should always be checked when the car is warmed up properly.

I’m doing it when I was told to by my mechanic.  I am only to add oil if it is below the minimum line.  The thing also gets its oil changed much more frequently now, and the weight of oil used was changed as well.  The car is on its last legs.  It’s worth barely more than it’s metal weight and needs to be junked.  I’m hoping to put that off till spring.


Life is like a bowl of chocolates: there are all these little crinkly paper cups everywhere.

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Some cars have "short" dipsticks.

 

This is a "problem" with Scania trucks at work, if you use the dipstick you often never get any oil on it. And there's no oil warning, and the oil pressure is fine. It's just a "bit low", but since it's a bit low.. Nothing gets on the dipstick, lol.

 

Just wait til you get a proper modern car like me, with no dipstick. No nothing, you open the hood.. There's a fancy plastic cover with the Ford logo on it.. And a hole for washer fluid and the battery cables. lol.

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A friend of mine had a Subaru once. It got 200 miles per gallon... of oil. We called it Smokey.

 

Anyway, it's not surprising for a car to start burning a little oil after 100K miles (~160K km). Just need to check the level regularly and fill it up as needed. And just because the dipstick doesn't get any oil on it doesn't mean there's no oil in the pan; the dipstick doesn't necessarily go all the way down. 

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Posted · Best Answer
1 hour ago, Bombastinator said:

I’m doing it when I was told to by my mechanic.  I am only to add oil if it is below the minimum line.  The thing also gets its oil changed much more frequently now, and the weight of oil used was changed as well.  The car is on its last legs.  It’s worth barely more than it’s metal weight and needs to be junked.  I’m hoping to put that off till spring.

The problem with 'mechanics' is that it's not in their interests to tell you how to do things properly yourself.

 

As I said before, always check the oil when the engine is cold, even turning it over pumps oil up into the engine and leaves the level in the sump lower than it really is.  the minimum mark is exactly that... the absolute minimum you should have in the engine. You should never let it fall below that line... in fact you should keep it as close to the max level as possible at all times.  Get into the habit of doing weekly checks, take 10mins and go around and check tyre pressures (must also be done cold, as the air warms when driven and expands giving a false reading) and keep them a fraction above recommended... and if car is loaded, add about 4psi all round. Check all fluids, oils, washer, power steering, brake and clutch... and gearbox if it's an auto (which should be warmed up first). If the brake fluid has a green tinge to it, it's normally a sign of moisture in it, and it could do with a flush through. Check the water level in the radiator, and top of if needed and before winter, get it tested to make sure it's got enough antifreeze in it.  I'd also recommend doing the gearbox oil every 20k at least... especially on an auto... a knackered auto box is a car killer on anything over 10yrs old... Personally I can't stand them... less power, less reliable, fewer mpg's... they're not that common over here and 99% of people learn to drive in and own manual gearboxes... Auto's are for those that can't handle a manual... the older people and the disabled... and sometimes those that spend a lot of time on highways for work.

 

Also.. never use the manufacturer intervals for oil changes. The older the car, the more frequent you should change the oil... I tend to do mine every year regardless of miles done and I average about 6k a year in my main car, even less in my summer/weekend car.

 

If you're worried about oil burn, next time you take the car out for a run... when it's fully warmed up... give it a hard boot, not a gently acceleration... foot to the floor (when it's safe to do so of course) take the revs up high and keep an eye on the exhaust fumes... if you see smoke with a tinge of blue... Sure sign of burning oil. Most common issue is worn piston rings... but that doesn't mean you have to get them done... mild wear on a car with higher miles isn't uncommon and regular oil changes and checks is often all you really need on more modern cars.


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