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Sumolizer

Which PSU?

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Posted · Original PosterOP
2 hours ago, Fasauceome said:

They're both just so old

 

At this point you're looking at power supplies that are mostly the same in terms of quality, none good really. It doesn't much matter which one you pick.

I'm kind of stuck here.

Why should i avoid that Thermaltake TR2 though?

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1 minute ago, Sumolizer said:

I'm kind of stuck here.

Why should i avoid that Thermaltake TR2 though?

It's a super old design, lacks protections and is generally one of the most outdated units you're looking at (a friend of mine had a TR2 in a PC from like 10 years ago)

 

Basically the CX is the most modern so if anything I'd pick that


I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k (won) - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Kill Trident Z RGB - Force MP500 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - The venerated Hyper 212 Evo (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G2 650W - Black and green theme, Razer branwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

Linux Proliant ML150 G6:

Dual Xeon X5560 - 24GB ECC DDR3 - GTX 750 TI - old Seagate 1.5TB HDD - Dark moded Ubuntu (and Win7, cuz why not)

 

EVGA G3 threadSeasonic Focus threadUserbenchmark (Et al.) is trash explained, PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

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Posted · Original PosterOP

So my Antec HCG520w just restarts my PC under load and i tried replacing all the components and it narrowed down to the PSU.

No NO good psu is available in my area.(Not even in Online)(And i wont go into details.

So i am stuck with these

Every PSU is Very OLD and used.

Here are my only options.

FSP 600w 80+ Bronze PSU.(FSP 600w-80TBN) it is a OEM power supply and i think it is for workstation. and it also feels quite heavy and of good quality.

These are my specs:

i5 2400

GTX 950

8 gigs of ddr3 1333mhz.

This PSU will be kind of a temporary one.I will upgrade it when i will upgrade my PC.

++++I just don't want it to go boom

et.jfif

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Posted · Original PosterOP

So my Antec HCG520w just restarts my PC under load and i tried replacing all the components and it narrowed down to the PSU.

No NO good psu is available in my area.(Not even in Online)(And i wont go into details.

So i am stuck with these

Every PSU is Very OLD and used.

Here are my only options.

FSP 600w 80+ Bronze PSU.(FSP 600w-80TBN) it is a OEM power supply and i think it is for workstation. and it also feels quite heavy and of good quality.

These are my specs:

i5 2400

GTX 950

8 gigs of ddr3 1333mhz.

This PSU will be kind of a temporary one.I will upgrade it when i will upgrade my PC.

++++I just don't want it to go boom

 

Here are the specs of PSU i found on a website.

I hope this helps.

 

General characteristics FSP Group FSP600-80TBN 600W
Power:
600 W
Standard:
ATX12V 2.3 / EPS12V
PFC: bub.jpgPower Factor Correction is a technique that promotes efficient energy consumption from the power grid. Power Factor correction is employed inside common electrical and electronic equipment that are powered from the AC outlet. Power factor correction enables the equipment to maximize the active power draw and minimize the reactive power draw from the AC outlet.
active
Cooling system:
1 fan (120 mm)
 
Current strength FSP Group FSP600-80TBN 600W
Current for the +3.3 V:
24 A
Current on The +5 V:
24 A
The current on the +12V line 1:
18 A
The current on the +12V line 2:
18 A
The current on the +12V line 3:
18 A
The current on the +12V line 4:
18 A
Current line -12:
0.5 A
Current on The +5 V Standby:
3 A
 
Additional information FSP Group FSP600-80TBN 600W
80 PLUS certified:
Bronze
Overvoltage protection: bub.jpgOVP circuits can be fixed or tracking and local or remote. A fixed OVP makes it possible to set a fixed voltage threshold, either manually or programmed remotely. It's a fixed value such that when the power-supply output voltage exceeds this value, the OVP circuit trips and the power supply tries to pull down the overvoltage on its output. The power supply output voltage can be changed, and the OVP threshold stays the same.
yes
Overload protection: bub.jpgOverload protection is a protection against a running overcurrent that would cause overheating of the protected equipment. Hence, an overload is also type of overcurrent. Overload protection typically operates on an inverse time curve where the tripping time becomes less as the current increases. Overload relays as well as �slow blow� fuses are commonly used to provide overload protection.
yes
Short circuit protection: bub.jpgShort circuit protection is often a desirable feature to add to power amplifiers or power supplies, for both safety concerns and protection of circuitry.
yes
Dimensions (HxWxD):
86x150x140 mm

PSU-600W-FSP600-80TBN-POWER-SUPPLY-ATX-80-BRONZE.jpg

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Posted · Original PosterOP
On 1/11/2020 at 7:04 PM, Spotty said:

Don't buy a 10 year old used low quality power supply.

 

What's your budget?
Where are you buying from (Country, and provide local websites you can buy from)
What are your system specs?

 

On 1/11/2020 at 7:07 PM, Fasauceome said:

what model VS are the ones you're looking at? orange or grey label?

 

if those are literally your only options, a grey label VS is about the best you'd get. Just don't expect to be upgrading to an i7 and GT 1080 using it.

 

On 1/13/2020 at 11:58 AM, SavageNeo said:

No.

Here are my only options.

FSP 600w 80+ Bronze PSU.(FSP 600w-80TBN) it is a OEM power supply and i think it is for workstation. and it also feels quite heavy and of good quality.

Here are the specs of PSU i found on a website.

I hope this helps.

 

General characteristics FSP Group FSP600-80TBN 600W
Power:
600 W
Standard:
ATX12V 2.3 / EPS12V
PFC: bub.jpgPower Factor Correction is a technique that promotes efficient energy consumption from the power grid. Power Factor correction is employed inside common electrical and electronic equipment that are powered from the AC outlet. Power factor correction enables the equipment to maximize the active power draw and minimize the reactive power draw from the AC outlet.
active
Cooling system:
1 fan (120 mm)
 
Current strength FSP Group FSP600-80TBN 600W
Current for the +3.3 V:
24 A
Current on The +5 V:
24 A
The current on the +12V line 1:
18 A
The current on the +12V line 2:
18 A
The current on the +12V line 3:
18 A
The current on the +12V line 4:
18 A
Current line -12:
0.5 A
Current on The +5 V Standby:
3 A
 
Additional information FSP Group FSP600-80TBN 600W
80 PLUS certified:
Bronze
Overvoltage protection: bub.jpgOVP circuits can be fixed or tracking and local or remote. A fixed OVP makes it possible to set a fixed voltage threshold, either manually or programmed remotely. It's a fixed value such that when the power-supply output voltage exceeds this value, the OVP circuit trips and the power supply tries to pull down the overvoltage on its output. The power supply output voltage can be changed, and the OVP threshold stays the same.
yes
Overload protection: bub.jpgOverload protection is a protection against a running overcurrent that would cause overheating of the protected equipment. Hence, an overload is also type of overcurrent. Overload protection typically operates on an inverse time curve where the tripping time becomes less as the current increases. Overload relays as well as �slow blow� fuses are commonly used to provide overload protection.
yes
Short circuit protection: bub.jpgShort circuit protection is often a desirable feature to add to power amplifiers or power supplies, for both safety concerns and protection of circuitry.
yes
Dimensions (HxWxD):
86x150x140 mm

PSU-600W-FSP600-80TBN-POWER-SUPPLY-ATX-80-BRONZE.jpg

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11 minutes ago, Sumolizer said:

FSP 600w 80+ Bronze PSU.(FSP 600w-80TBN) it is a OEM power supply and i think it is for workstation. and it also feels quite heavy and of good quality.

You can't judge the quality of a power supply by how heavy it is.

That PSU is from 2008. https://clearesult5.sharepoint.com/sites/PLS/Shared Documents/SP586_FSP_FSP600-80TBN_ATZ_600W_Report.pdf

 

I've been keeping an eye on the thread and all the different power supplies you've asked about, and so far I don't have anything to contribute other than what I have already said:

On 1/12/2020 at 1:04 AM, Spotty said:

Don't buy a 10 year old used low quality power supply.

 

I can't in good faith recommend any of those units to you as it's impossible for anyone to know the condition of a 10+ year old power supply, especially since many of the ones you are looking at were not considered to be of particularly good quality when they were new.

 

 

If those are the only power supplies you can afford just pick whatever is the cheapest and easiest for you to get (doesn't require travelling to a different city to buy).

Only advice I can really give you is look for one that doesn't have a voltage switch at the back, is full range (100-240V), and 80+ certified (bronze preferably). So of the ones you have mentioned that includes the VX450, CX430 v2, CX500M, FSP 600W-80TBN, Antec Earthwatts 500W, Seasonic SS500-ETphonehome, and Enermax Pro82. My guess is the Corsair CX500M is going to be one of the more expensive options since it's newer and semi-modular, but if you do buy it make sure it comes with all the cables included otherwise you'd be stuck needing to spend more money on buying replacement cables.

 

Not the Cooler Master Elite or Thermaltake TR2.

 

Beyond that it really just comes down to luck whether or not a 10 year old power supply is going to work (and for how long). The "best quality" power supply might also be the one that was treated the worst and was used to power a mining rig 24/7 for the past 3 years or was owned by a crazy cat lady who smoked 2 packets of cigarettes a day and is completely gunked up. 🤷‍♂️


CPU: Intel i7 6700k  | Motherboard: Gigabyte Z170x Gaming 5 | RAM: 2x8GB 3000MHz G.Skill Ripjaws 5 | GPU: Gigabyte Aorus GTX 1080ti | PSU: Corsair RM750x (2018) | Case: BeQuiet SilentBase 800 | Cooler: Corsair H100i AIO | SSD: Samsung 970 Evo 500GB + Samsung 840 500GB | HDD: Seagate Ironwolf 8TB + 2x Seagate Ironwolf 6TB | Monitor: Acer Predator XB271HU + Samsung BX2450

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Posted · Original PosterOP
15 minutes ago, Spotty said:

You can't judge the quality of a power supply by how heavy it is.

That PSU is from 2008. https://clearesult5.sharepoint.com/sites/PLS/Shared Documents/SP586_FSP_FSP600-80TBN_ATZ_600W_Report.pdf

 

I've been keeping an eye on the thread and all the different power supplies you've asked about, and so far I don't have anything to contribute other than what I have already said:

 

I can't in good faith recommend any of those units to you as it's impossible for anyone to know the condition of a 10+ year old power supply, especially since many of the ones you are looking at were not considered to be of particularly good quality when they were new.

 

 

If those are the only power supplies you can afford just pick whatever is the cheapest and easiest for you to get (doesn't require travelling to a different city to buy).

Only advice I can really give you is look for one that doesn't have a voltage switch at the back, is full range (100-240V), and 80+ certified (bronze preferably). So of the ones you have mentioned that includes the VX450, CX430 v2, CX500M, FSP 600W-80TBN, Antec Earthwatts 500W, Seasonic SS500-ETphonehome, and Enermax Pro82. My guess is the Corsair CX500M is going to be one of the more expensive options since it's newer and semi-modular, but if you do buy it make sure it comes with all the cables included otherwise you'd be stuck needing to spend more money on buying replacement cables.

 

Not the Cooler Master Elite or Thermaltake TR2.

 

Beyond that it really just comes down to luck whether or not a 10 year old power supply is going to work (and for how long). The "best quality" power supply might also be the one that was treated the worst and was used to power a mining rig 24/7 for the past 3 years or was owned by a crazy cat lady who smoked 2 packets of cigarettes a day and is completely gunked up. 🤷‍♂️

I checked that FSP Power supply in the local shop.

1)Its condition was really really great (Like never been used)

2)It didn't have tha 100-240w switch.

3) and i will make sure to test the psu with my rig with either aida64 or furmark before buying it.

I prefer the local shop because it saves the money of shipment and i can check the psu before buying it.

Its just sort of a temporary psu as i will be upgrading it to either a cx450(2017) when i will upgrade my gpu and cpu in late this year.

I just don't want the risk of explosion , fire , PSU taking gpu with it.

 

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4 hours ago, Sumolizer said:

and it also feels quite heavy and of good quality.

there was a period here manufacturers added weights to their power supplies so that people would think they were higher quality. This may not be one of them, but it's a lesson in how the weight and "feel" of a PSU means nothing for quality.


I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k (won) - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Kill Trident Z RGB - Force MP500 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - The venerated Hyper 212 Evo (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G2 650W - Black and green theme, Razer branwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

Linux Proliant ML150 G6:

Dual Xeon X5560 - 24GB ECC DDR3 - GTX 750 TI - old Seagate 1.5TB HDD - Dark moded Ubuntu (and Win7, cuz why not)

 

EVGA G3 threadSeasonic Focus threadUserbenchmark (Et al.) is trash explained, PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

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Posted · Original PosterOP
3 hours ago, Fasauceome said:

there was a period here manufacturers added weights to their power supplies so that people would think they were higher quality. This may not be one of them, but it's a lesson in how the weight and "feel" of a PSU means nothing for quality.

Got it.

But should i go for it?

I think its the most reliable option i have

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1 minute ago, Sumolizer said:

Got it.

But should i go for it?

I think its the most reliable option i have

as @Spotty mentioned, the newer options such as the CX, even though they're green labels, are still better. that FSP PSU is just too ancient, 12 years old.


I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k (won) - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Kill Trident Z RGB - Force MP500 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - The venerated Hyper 212 Evo (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G2 650W - Black and green theme, Razer branwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

Linux Proliant ML150 G6:

Dual Xeon X5560 - 24GB ECC DDR3 - GTX 750 TI - old Seagate 1.5TB HDD - Dark moded Ubuntu (and Win7, cuz why not)

 

EVGA G3 threadSeasonic Focus threadUserbenchmark (Et al.) is trash explained, PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

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Sorry but I don't think anybody in their right mind is going to recommend you 10 year old, used power supplies. 10 years is way past the MTTF (mean time to failure) for a power supply. If they give you the power supply for free take it. But paying money for it? No way, such a device is worthless. Get something decent even if you have to go the extra mile and spend more than you want to. Maybe others thing differently but I simply cannot recommend something like a 10 year old PSU, If I did I would not be able to sleep at night anymore.


There is no replacement for RGB except more RGB 😜

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Posted · Original PosterOP
5 hours ago, oeci said:

Sorry but I don't think anybody in their right mind is going to recommend you 10 year old, used power supplies. 10 years is way past the MTTF (mean time to failure) for a power supply. If they give you the power supply for free take it. But paying money for it? No way, such a device is worthless. Get something decent even if you have to go the extra mile and spend more than you want to. Maybe others thing differently but I simply cannot recommend something like a 10 year old PSU, If I did I would not be able to sleep at night anymore.

Its around 70-80 miles from here and its not worth it as there is "ONLY A CHANCE" that i will get a good psu. Last time I went there and got myself a buggy psu that i am still using.

 

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Posted · Original PosterOP
9 hours ago, oeci said:

Sorry but I don't think anybody in their right mind is going to recommend you 10 year old, used power supplies. 10 years is way past the MTTF (mean time to failure) for a power supply. If they give you the power supply for free take it. But paying money for it? No way, such a device is worthless. Get something decent even if you have to go the extra mile and spend more than you want to. Maybe others thing differently but I simply cannot recommend something like a 10 year old PSU, If I did I would not be able to sleep at night anymore.

 

19 hours ago, Fasauceome said:

as @Spotty mentioned, the newer options such as the CX, even though they're green labels, are still better. that FSP PSU is just too ancient, 12 years old.

 

On 1/16/2020 at 3:16 PM, Spotty said:

You can't judge the quality of a power supply by how heavy it is.

That PSU is from 2008. https://clearesult5.sharepoint.com/sites/PLS/Shared Documents/SP586_FSP_FSP600-80TBN_ATZ_600W_Report.pdf

 

I've been keeping an eye on the thread and all the different power supplies you've asked about, and so far I don't have anything to contribute other than what I have already said:

 

I can't in good faith recommend any of those units to you as it's impossible for anyone to know the condition of a 10+ year old power supply, especially since many of the ones you are looking at were not considered to be of particularly good quality when they were new.

 

 

If those are the only power supplies you can afford just pick whatever is the cheapest and easiest for you to get (doesn't require travelling to a different city to buy).

Only advice I can really give you is look for one that doesn't have a voltage switch at the back, is full range (100-240V), and 80+ certified (bronze preferably). So of the ones you have mentioned that includes the VX450, CX430 v2, CX500M, FSP 600W-80TBN, Antec Earthwatts 500W, Seasonic SS500-ETphonehome, and Enermax Pro82. My guess is the Corsair CX500M is going to be one of the more expensive options since it's newer and semi-modular, but if you do buy it make sure it comes with all the cables included otherwise you'd be stuck needing to spend more money on buying replacement cables.

 

Not the Cooler Master Elite or Thermaltake TR2.

 

Beyond that it really just comes down to luck whether or not a 10 year old power supply is going to work (and for how long). The "best quality" power supply might also be the one that was treated the worst and was used to power a mining rig 24/7 for the past 3 years or was owned by a crazy cat lady who smoked 2 packets of cigarettes a day and is completely gunked up. 🤷‍♂️

I got only 3 option

1)Repair of that Antec High current gamer 520w (Seems risky) (By repair i mean i will take that PSU in a shop)

2) Buy that FSP 600w 80+ Powersupply.

3)Buy a CiT 480UB watt psu (Which some users say that its a potential bomb in pc).I used it with a Q66600 and GTX650 for a year and never had problems.

I am really really stuck now.

The PSU will be temporary as i will upgrade it after maybe 6 or 7 months

Update

I just happened to open my PSU (I was very carefull not to touch any capacitor) and OMG there were literally bags of dust . The whole PSU was clogged with dust. Not to mention that the PCB was very dirty.

Should i blow the dust away with leafblower?

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5 hours ago, Sumolizer said:

I just happened to open my PSU (I was very carefull not to touch any capacitor) and OMG there were literally bags of dust . The whole PSU was clogged with dust. Not to mention that the PCB was very dirty.

Should i blow the dust away with leafblower?

might as well, I don't think it would fix anything but worth a shot of course


I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k (won) - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Kill Trident Z RGB - Force MP500 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - The venerated Hyper 212 Evo (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G2 650W - Black and green theme, Razer branwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

Linux Proliant ML150 G6:

Dual Xeon X5560 - 24GB ECC DDR3 - GTX 750 TI - old Seagate 1.5TB HDD - Dark moded Ubuntu (and Win7, cuz why not)

 

EVGA G3 threadSeasonic Focus threadUserbenchmark (Et al.) is trash explained, PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

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Posted · Original PosterOP
1 hour ago, Fasauceome said:

might as well, I don't think it would fix anything but worth a shot of course

I just saw a Jayz2cents vid , He just literally cleaned the PSU and got rid of random restarts

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7 minutes ago, Sumolizer said:

I just saw a Jayz2cents vid , He just literally cleaned the PSU and got rid of random restarts

It can work but don't expect a miracle


I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k (won) - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Kill Trident Z RGB - Force MP500 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - The venerated Hyper 212 Evo (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G2 650W - Black and green theme, Razer branwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

Linux Proliant ML150 G6:

Dual Xeon X5560 - 24GB ECC DDR3 - GTX 750 TI - old Seagate 1.5TB HDD - Dark moded Ubuntu (and Win7, cuz why not)

 

EVGA G3 threadSeasonic Focus threadUserbenchmark (Et al.) is trash explained, PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

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Posted · Original PosterOP
1 hour ago, Fasauceome said:

It can work but don't expect a miracle

I just cleaned the dust and things are working fine tho.

I played Apex legends for about 20 or 30 mins and PC didn't crashed.

I hope that cleaning fixed it.

Will update

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Posted · Original PosterOP
On 1/17/2020 at 7:29 PM, Fasauceome said:

It can work but don't expect a miracle

Ok so it didn't worked.

What to do now?

1)Take that Antec PSU to a repair shop.

2) Buy that FSP power supply.

3)Order that Thermaltake tr2.

4)Order Seasonic SS500ET.

The 3 and 4 options are the some online sellers so i have no guarantee that the PSU will work or not.

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Posted · Original PosterOP
On 1/16/2020 at 3:16 PM, Spotty said:

You can't judge the quality of a power supply by how heavy it is.

That PSU is from 2008. https://clearesult5.sharepoint.com/sites/PLS/Shared Documents/SP586_FSP_FSP600-80TBN_ATZ_600W_Report.pdf

 

I've been keeping an eye on the thread and all the different power supplies you've asked about, and so far I don't have anything to contribute other than what I have already said:

 

I can't in good faith recommend any of those units to you as it's impossible for anyone to know the condition of a 10+ year old power supply, especially since many of the ones you are looking at were not considered to be of particularly good quality when they were new.

 

 

If those are the only power supplies you can afford just pick whatever is the cheapest and easiest for you to get (doesn't require travelling to a different city to buy).

Only advice I can really give you is look for one that doesn't have a voltage switch at the back, is full range (100-240V), and 80+ certified (bronze preferably). So of the ones you have mentioned that includes the VX450, CX430 v2, CX500M, FSP 600W-80TBN, Antec Earthwatts 500W, Seasonic SS500-ETphonehome, and Enermax Pro82. My guess is the Corsair CX500M is going to be one of the more expensive options since it's newer and semi-modular, but if you do buy it make sure it comes with all the cables included otherwise you'd be stuck needing to spend more money on buying replacement cables.

 

Not the Cooler Master Elite or Thermaltake TR2.

 

Beyond that it really just comes down to luck whether or not a 10 year old power supply is going to work (and for how long). The "best quality" power supply might also be the one that was treated the worst and was used to power a mining rig 24/7 for the past 3 years or was owned by a crazy cat lady who smoked 2 packets of cigarettes a day and is completely gunked up. 🤷‍♂️

Ok so it didn't worked.

What to do now?

1)Take that Antec PSU to a repair shop.

2) Buy that FSP power supply.

3)Order that Thermaltake tr2.

4)Order Seasonic SS500ET.

The 3 and 4 options are the some online sellers so i have no guarantee that the PSU will work or not.(But I do get a 7 Days warranty anyway)

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1 minute ago, Sumolizer said:

What to do now?

1)Take that Antec PSU to a repair shop.

2) Buy that FSP power supply.

3)Order that Thermaltake tr2.

4)Order Seasonic SS500ET.

 

On 1/16/2020 at 9:16 PM, Spotty said:

Not the Cooler Master Elite or Thermaltake TR2.

The thermaltake TR2 430W lacks PFC and only has a 25°C temp rating.  BAD

 

PSUs aren't really repairable. I doubt your local repair shop would be able to fix it.

 

Maybe I've missed it, but what is your current power supply and what is wrong with it? You say that it's broken but how so? What happens when you try to power a system with it? Is it completely dead not starting at all? Have you tried the paperclip test to see if the fan on the unit spins?


CPU: Intel i7 6700k  | Motherboard: Gigabyte Z170x Gaming 5 | RAM: 2x8GB 3000MHz G.Skill Ripjaws 5 | GPU: Gigabyte Aorus GTX 1080ti | PSU: Corsair RM750x (2018) | Case: BeQuiet SilentBase 800 | Cooler: Corsair H100i AIO | SSD: Samsung 970 Evo 500GB + Samsung 840 500GB | HDD: Seagate Ironwolf 8TB + 2x Seagate Ironwolf 6TB | Monitor: Acer Predator XB271HU + Samsung BX2450

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Posted · Original PosterOP
7 minutes ago, Spotty said:

 

The thermaltake TR2 430W lacks PFC and only has a 25°C temp rating.  BAD

 

PSUs aren't really repairable. I doubt your local repair shop would be able to fix it.

 

Maybe I've missed it, but what is your current power supply and what is wrong with it? You say that it's broken but how so? What happens when you try to power a system with it? Is it completely dead not starting at all? Have you tried the paperclip test to see if the fan on the unit spins?

I have a Antec High Current Gamer 520w (from 2012)

The PSU is completely good when Low power gaming or browsing.

But when i run a Intensive game like Apex Legend , My PC Restarts.

I mean it Restarts under load

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1 minute ago, Sumolizer said:

I have a Antec High Current Gamer 520w (from 2012)

The PSU is completely good when Low power gaming or browsing.

But when i run a Intensive game like Apex Legend , My PC Restarts.

I mean it Restarts under load

Restarts? As in it shuts down then immediately starts back up again?

Any BSOD or error code?

Does it shut down immediately when you try playing games or does it shut down randomly or after some period of time?


CPU: Intel i7 6700k  | Motherboard: Gigabyte Z170x Gaming 5 | RAM: 2x8GB 3000MHz G.Skill Ripjaws 5 | GPU: Gigabyte Aorus GTX 1080ti | PSU: Corsair RM750x (2018) | Case: BeQuiet SilentBase 800 | Cooler: Corsair H100i AIO | SSD: Samsung 970 Evo 500GB + Samsung 840 500GB | HDD: Seagate Ironwolf 8TB + 2x Seagate Ironwolf 6TB | Monitor: Acer Predator XB271HU + Samsung BX2450

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Posted · Original PosterOP
20 minutes ago, Spotty said:

Restarts? As in it shuts down then immediately starts back up again?

Yes

 

20 minutes ago, Spotty said:

Any BSOD or error code?

Does it shut down immediately when you try playing games or does it shut down randomly or after some period of time?

No BSOD or error codes.

In games like Apex Legends,The game wont even reach menu. And the PC restarts.

Games Like Realm Royale , Dying Light . The PC does not restart.

While in games like Killing Floor 2 , It restarts after about 2 min (While in-match)

So 

A Seasonic 500ET or a FSP 600w ? :}

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