Jump to content

Upgrading to ryzen from i7 3770

Hey, I'm considering an upgrade for my rig. But I'm quite stumped by the AMD-world, I've got no idea what's what, or what to buy. I've been seduced by the Ryzen hype and I've decided that if I'm going to upgrade, I'm going to go Ryzen.

I'm wondering if someone more knowledgeable than me could assist me in choosing a suitable cpu/ mobo/ ram upgrade? I wonder what would be a reasonabe bang for the buck upgrade from an i7 3770. The ambition is to play games at 1080p, while using photoshop, sony vegas and other programs of that nature. Current system does well enough, but struggles with churning out enough fps in the latest titles.

Current specs are;

Msi GTX 1060 6GB,

i7 3770 (non-K),

16GB DDR3 1600 Mhz,

Asus P8Z77-VLX MOBO

 

:)

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

If you're on a budget, Ryzen 5 3600 (non-X), if you're not in a tight budget, perhaps a Ryzen 7 3700X. These are both great CPUs for the price, but obviously, it depends on what you need. The Ryzen 7 3700X will be better at multi-threaded applications, but the Ryzen 5 3600 will provide you better value for gaming. Given your current setup, if you want better FPS in modern games, you will have to upgrade your GPU as well, I'm afraid.

Quote me so I can reply back :) 

MY PC-> PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA T2 1000W 80 Plus Titanium MOTHERBOARD: ASUS X370 Crosshair VI Hero CPU: RYZEN 7 3700X RAM: G.Skill 32GB (4X8GB) DDR4 3200MHz C14 GPU: EVGA GTX 1080Ti FTW3 HYBRID STORAGE: Samsung 970 EVO 500GB NVMe SSD; 2TB WD Caviar Blue; Crucial MX500 500GB SSD CUSTOM LOOP: EK-Velocity Nickel + Plexi CPU block, EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Acetal + Nickel GPU Block w/ EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Backplate, EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM, EK-CoolStream PE 240 w/ 2x Noctua NF-F12 Chromax fans, EK-ACF Fitting 10/13mm Nickel, Mayhems UV White tubing 13/10mm, 3x Noctua NF-S12A Chromax case fans

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

I've heard from several people to steer clear of the 3600x, or the X's in general.. Is there a particular reason for that? As I've gathered they're better than the non-x, but I'm completely new to the AMD world, and am quite confused :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

You need to determine the level of improvement you're trying to achieve...I do nearly all my calculations and comparisons using the benchmark scores at Passmark.com. They are fairly reasonable and even if they are not 100% accurate, at least they permit you to compare different build levels.

 

For instance your 3770 rates 9277 and a Ryzen 5 3600 is at 19870, so likely better than a 100% improvement. But remember if you're budget limited some of the superseded Ryzens are now coming onto the market...and a Ryzen 7 2700 scores 15070. Also you can opt for an older generation motherboard to support say a 2700 or whatever...you just need to do your research as I'm of the opinion that Intel to AMD switches are going to become very popular given that the Ryzen options that span several generations of hardware allow you to spend a  little less [if $$ spent is an issue] by purchasing the best bang for buck CPUs and motherboards that you can - which will still allow you to upgrade over multiple levels as your finances allow...but do the research!!

 

AFAIK the critical area is Ryzen suitable ram; the earlier generations can be somewhat picky; though with the high level of research that you've done...that area should be covered!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

20 minutes ago, razersurf said:

As I've gathered they're better than the non-x, but I'm completely new to the AMD world, and am quite confused :)

They are not worth the extra cost. A single switch in Bios makes them identical essentially. 

 

Keep in mind you need a suitable board for Ryzen 3k. 

 

Like a B450 Max board from MSI. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

55 minutes ago, razersurf said:

I've heard from several people to steer clear of the 3600x, or the X's in general.. Is there a particular reason for that? As I've gathered they're better than the non-x,

As GoldenLag said it's more about not being worth paying more for.  That said you don't want to assume that every AMD 3000-series CPU is bad value if it has an X after it's name.  There are higher AMD CPUs for which there is no non-x version for consumers: like the Ryzen 7 3700x & 3800x.  With those two the same logic applies, get the 3700x it's in spitting distance of the 3800x as they have the same cores, just one's a tad higher bin on base and boost clocks (at stock). 

 

Effectively (not to confuse) but the relationship between Ryzen 5 3600 & 3600x is almost same as 3700x and 3800x , so it's almost like the 3700x is more like a 3800 without the -x.  It's the value CPU to grab, as it'll always be much cheaper than the 3800x.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Alright, so it's looking like a 3600 is in my near future. Wether or noit I'm going to go for just an upgrade on the current system or an entirely new system remains to be seen.

What's weird is that I tried to run a whole system benchmark on my pc using userbenchmark.com and for some reason, overclocked and standard-clock my GPU doesn't perform well at all. Whole pc blackscreens during the gpu bench and stutters through.. Is this a known issue with the benchmark utility? I've run unigine heaven and kombustor fine with and without any overclocking on the gpu..

 

UserBenchmarks: Game 12%, Desk 59%, Work 40%
CPU: Intel Core i7-3770 - 65.9%
GPU: Nvidia GTX 1060-6GB - 1.9%
SSD: Samsung 830 128GB - 63.7%
HDD: WD Green 1TB (2011) - 50%
RAM: Kingston HyperX DDR3 1600 C9 4x4GB - 59.1%
MBD: Asus P8Z77-V LX
 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, razersurf said:

I'm wondering if someone more knowledgeable than me could assist me in choosing a suitable cpu/ mobo/ ram upgrade?

Here is what I would go with for CPU, Mobo, and RAM.  If you have more budget room (like at least another $80-100) could bump this to an 8-Core.

 

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor  ($189.99 @ Best Buy) 
Motherboard: *MSI B450 Gaming Plus MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard  ($99.99 @ B&H) 
Memory: Team T-FORCE VULCAN Z 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory  ($54.99 @ Newegg) 
Total: $344.97
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
*Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-12-14 09:35 EST-0500

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, razersurf said:

What's weird is that I tried to run a whole system benchmark on my pc using userbenchmark.com and for some reason, overclocked and standard-clock my GPU doesn't perform well at all.

Do you have G-Sync or G-Sync Compatible (FreeSync effectively) turned on?  That has to be turned off for that benchmark to work properly as otherwise the frames get limited.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just now, LogicWeasel said:

Do you have G-Sync or G-Sync Compatible (FreeSync effectively) turned on?  That has to be turned off for that benchmark to work properly as otherwise the frames get limited.

Ah, I do have a G-sync compatible monitor with G-.sync turned on. In any case, it seems that without upgrading the gpu I wouldn't see huge gains in gaming performance, so I might do a completely new build instead of trying to upgrade the old one. Assuming either a 2060 super or a 2070 would pair nicely with the package you suggested?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, razersurf said:

G-sync compatible monitor with G-.sync turned on

What monitor do you have?  Is it a true G-Sync, because when I use the phrase "G-Sync compatible" I'm talking about using a FreeSync monitor with an NVIDIA GPU, it's basically G-Sync light, but NVIDIA allows it now (they didn't when FreeSync came out for first couple years).  With a FreeSync monitor you could grab an RX 5700 for big value compared to a 2070.  But if not I'll link a good 2070 or equivalent.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Turning off G-sync fixed the issue. I've got an AOC monitor of some description, can't remember the exact name. But it's a freesync monitor that is G-sync compatible. 144hz, 1080p, 24 inch.

UserBenchmarks: Game 53%, Desk 60%, Work 44%
CPU: Intel Core i7-3770 - 65.9%
GPU: Nvidia GTX 1060-6GB - 56%
SSD: Samsung 830 128GB - 64.6%
HDD: WD Green 1TB (2011) - 49.5%
RAM: Kingston HyperX DDR3 1600 C9 4x4GB - 59%
MBD: Asus P8Z77-V LX
 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

16 minutes ago, LogicWeasel said:

What monitor do you have?  Is it a true G-Sync, because when I use the phrase "G-Sync compatible" I'm talking about using a FreeSync monitor with an NVIDIA GPU, it's basically G-Sync light, but NVIDIA allows it now (they didn't when FreeSync came out for first couple years).  With a FreeSync monitor you could grab an RX 5700 for big value compared to a 2070.  But if not I'll link a good 2070 or equivalent.

New to the forum, keep forgetting to quote :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

29 minutes ago, razersurf said:

Assuming either a 2060 super or a 2070 would pair nicely with the package you suggested?

If you just wanted to do a GPU upgrade for now this would be a solid pick: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/FD2bt6/sapphire-radeon-rx-5700-8-gb-pulse-video-card-11294-01-20g

It's the same price-tier as 2060 (normal)  but out performs the 2060 Super (costs even more).  That said, it does draw more power than the GTX 1060 6G you have now.  So it's worth checking that your current PSU is up to snuff.

What exact model PSU do you have now?  (Example: "EVGA G2 550W", just saying "EVGA 500W" doesn't tell me if it's a good enough PSU to use with more modern GPUs).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Attached are pictures of PSU and entire system. 

9 minutes ago, LogicWeasel said:

If you just wanted to do a GPU upgrade for now this would be a solid pick: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/FD2bt6/sapphire-radeon-rx-5700-8-gb-pulse-video-card-11294-01-20g

It's the same price-tier as 2060 (normal)  but out performs the 2060 Super (costs even more).  That said, it does draw more power than the GTX 1060 6G you have now.  So it's worth checking that your current PSU is up to snuff.

What exact model PSU do you have now?  (Example: "EVGA G2 550W", just saying "EVGA 500W" doesn't tell me if it's a good enough PSU to use with more modern GPUs).

 

20191214_161508.jpg

20191214_161522.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Worth noting that I switched from an old 670 to the 1060 about a year ago. ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, razersurf said:

Attached are pictures of PSU and entire system. 

(snipped to save room)

 

[Picture of RS-600-ASAB-L3 ] 

 

@razersurfThanks for the helpful picture, that's perfect for figuring out that PSU.



@LukeSavenije I invoke the knowledge of Luke.  I googled this model # quick and it's coming up an early Cooler Master 600W GS Lite?  Based on what I'm seeing so far, I'm not feeling real comfortable with advising OP using it with any GPU higher than his current GTX 1060 6GB.  It looks like a cheaper Cooler Master that's at least 4-5 years old and may not even be 80Plus white, what do you think?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, razersurf said:

Worth noting that I switched from an old 670 to the 1060 about a year ago. ?

If you had the 144Hz monitor at that time I would have advised you would need a more powerful GPU to hit 1080p 144 FPS.  The 1060 is more of a medium/high settings, 1080p 75Hz kind of GPU.  It's not great for pushing much higher unless settings are cut to low or you're playing something easy like rocket league (can probs do 140 fps with mid-settings in eSports like that title).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, LogicWeasel said:

what do you think?

well, i found a bit more about it

 

it's a ~2012 Cooler Master GX600, has 540w on the 12v which likely means it's a groupreg, it's made by ATNG, this is what it looks like internally, and i don't feel comfortable recommending to run a 1060 off it

image.png.343cb306fbb8edc982931cdd2cebec56.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, LogicWeasel said:

If you had the 144Hz monitor at that time I would have advised you would need a more powerful GPU to hit 1080p 144 FPS.  The 1060 is more of a medium/high settings, 1080p 75Hz kind of GPU.  It's not great for pushing much higher unless settings are cut to low or you're playing something easy like rocket league (can probs do 140 fps with mid-settings in eSports like that title).

Up until recently (the last 13 years) I've mainly played counter strike source surf. Most of what I used the pc for was making community maps for css, the occasional video etc. Although lately I've gotten back into gaming again, and I want to play some of the new titles that come out. Had I known that when I got the 1060, I probably would've gone for something else. I did however buy it used, very cheaply, and it was more of a fpsboost right now type of thing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

51 minutes ago, LukeSavenije said:

well, i found a bit more about it

 

it's a ~2012 Cooler Master GX600, has 540w on the 12v which likely means it's a groupreg, it's made by ATNG, this is what it looks like internally, and i don't feel comfortable recommending to run a 1060 off it

 

Thanks for the info Luke!

 

@razersurf If Luke says the PSU isn't even good enough to trust ongoing with the 1060, than we've got safety and electrical performance concerns.  If you want to keep your CPU for now and not do a whole new computer (which you could as then you can find out after GPU upgrade if the CPU is worth replacing, or for down the road more), then I'd set a budget to do a GPU and PSU upgrade.

 

If you have the budget to grab something like that RX 5700 from Sapphire, then I'd pair it with a PSU like this:  https://pcpartpicker.com/product/FdRFf7/corsair-cx-2017-550w-80-bronze-certified-atx-power-supply-cp-9020121-na  Then you'd be all set on an upgrade.

 


Edit:  I just now noticed you're in Norway.  I would go with this PSU instead than if you're indeed buying parts in Norway: https://no.pcpartpicker.com/product/dDH48d/corsair-txm-gold-550w-80-gold-certified-semi-modular-atx-power-supply-cp-9020133-na

Edited by LogicWeasel
Realized likely buying in Norway
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, LogicWeasel said:

electrical performance concerns

mainly this, as I've written about it earlier

 

what you mainly need to know is that components can degrade faster under higher voltages, and this PSU isn't unlikely to cause those because of what I've written out above

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, GoldenLag said:

They are not worth the extra cost. A single switch in Bios makes them identical essentially. 

 

Keep in mind you need a suitable board for Ryzen 3k. 

 

Like a B450 Max board from MSI. 

This, but the 3700x doesn't apply.

 

They changed the naming scheme for third gen, as the 3700x is the is essentially the successor to the 2700 nonx. The 3700x is the 65w part and the better deal.

 

The 3800x is the successor to the 2700x and is 105w(I think).

 

Note that these tdp are not really accurate either

Before you reply to my post, REFRESH. 99.99% chance I edited my post. 

 

My System: i7-13700KF // Corsair iCUE H150i Elite Capellix // MSI MPG Z690 Edge Wifi // 32GB DDR5 G. SKILL RIPJAWS S5 6000 CL32 // Nvidia RTX 4070 Super FE // Corsair 5000D Airflow // Corsair SP120 RGB Pro x7 // Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 850w //1TB ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro/1TB Teamgroup MP33/2TB Seagate 7200RPM Hard Drive // Displays: LG Ultragear 32GP83B x2 // Royal Kludge RK100 // Logitech G Pro X Superlight // Sennheiser DROP PC38x

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, LogicWeasel said:

Thanks for the info Luke!

 

@razersurf If Luke says the PSU isn't even good enough to trust ongoing with the 1060, than we've got safety and electrical performance concerns.  If you want to keep your CPU for now and not do a whole new computer (which you could as then you can find out after GPU upgrade if the CPU is worth replacing, or for down the road more), then I'd set a budget to do a GPU and PSU upgrade.

 

If you have the budget to grab something like that RX 5700 from Sapphire, then I'd pair it with a PSU like this:  https://pcpartpicker.com/product/FdRFf7/corsair-cx-2017-550w-80-bronze-certified-atx-power-supply-cp-9020121-na  Then you'd be all set on an upgrade.

 


Edit:  I just now noticed you're in Norway.  I would go with this PSU instead than if you're indeed buying parts in Norway: https://no.pcpartpicker.com/product/dDH48d/corsair-txm-gold-550w-80-gold-certified-semi-modular-atx-power-supply-cp-9020133-na

I've compiled a list of wanted components now. Have I chosen well? :) Thank you for all your answers, its very helpful. I am indeed buying in Norway, and the prices here are horrendous in comparison to what you lot pay :c My total for these parts in Norway adds up to 710 USD.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

10 minutes ago, razersurf said:

I am indeed buying in Norway, and the prices here are horrendous in comparison to what you lot pay :c

PCPartPicker does have a Norway region option so it'll list only Norwegian retailers.  That way I can steer you toward the best parts for your market (unless you have someone who will mail these parts to you from the US and it's cheap enough to be viable?).

Here's a rough draft of what I mean:

 

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor  (kr2246.00 @ CDON NO)   Or whatever site has the best deal on this CPU or equivalent.
Motherboard: MSI X470 GAMING PLUS MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard  (kr1499.00 @ CDON NO)      Anything MSI B450 or higher that has "MAX" in the name, is good for what you need.  If you find cheaper go for it if it matches that description.
Memory: OLOy 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory  (kr844.76 @ Newegg Norway)     (Anything good value that is better than DDR4-2800 , maybe CL under 18 if you can)
Storage: ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive  (kr1652.00 @ CDON NO)   (This one is much faster than the Crucial P1 if price is similar I'd go for it).
Power Supply: Corsair TXM Gold 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply  (kr809.00 @ CDON NO)   (The cheapest PSU that's still good on PCPartPicker Norway)
Total: kr7050.76
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-12-14 23:00 CET+0100

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×