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CeePeeBee

AIO For Low Noise and Aesthetics

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Posted · Original PosterOP

Hi all,

 

I'm the owner of a 2600X with a Coolermaster ML240L RGB currently hooked up to it. Whilst fine now I've put some Corsair ML120 PRO fans on there for my white aesthetic and for better temps than I was getting with the stock Coolermaster ones included, I continue to get long periods of "air bubble" gurgles throughout sessions. I've had this cooler for a year now and whilst messing with overclocking some time ago I must have changed the pump fan controls. I only noticed a month or so ago when I was trying to investigate the issue. Anyway, I've since had the pump on 100%, and run this for well over a week several times over to try and get rid of the air bubbles yet they still come and go.

 

Now, I'm not sure if this is anything to do with how it's mounted (shouldn't be - front panel with inlet/outlet on the top, swinging down and across into the side of the block) but these periods of "gargle" are annoying as all hell.

 

I'm just looking to see if there is anything else on the market that has good AIO performance, low pump noise level at 100% (fans I've got covered), in the 240mm range? Ignore budget for now as whilst I can probably get what I want from an air cooler, I'm looking for a cleaner look and feel as I'm used to sitting looking at the S340 Elite side panel.

 

Let me know your thoughts guys. I was looking at the CORSAIR H100i RGB PLATINUM SE (the white one) as that fits perfectly with my colour scheme but reviews say noise level is incredibly high.

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You will always have some air bubbles in AIOs since its impossible to 100% fill them. Just take and gently shake the unit and turn it up and down etc to help move it around and move the air. This should help.


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I'd rather blame the cooler itself, ML120L and 240L are one of the worst series of AIO liquid coolers you could buy now from a bigger brand like Cooler Master


CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: 1TB HP EX920 PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172), 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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Posted · Original PosterOP
2 minutes ago, Jurrunio said:

I'd rather blame the cooler itself, ML120L and 240L are one of the worst series of AIO liquid coolers you could buy now from a bigger brand like Cooler Master

The ML120L and 240L are from Cooler Master...........

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Posted · Original PosterOP
19 minutes ago, Skiiwee29 said:

You will always have some air bubbles in AIOs since its impossible to 100% fill them. Just take and gently shake the unit and turn it up and down etc to help move it around and move the air. This should help.

Thanks for the reply. I have been doing that and it does go away, but invariably comes back and hangs around again. Tipping doesn't necessarily help so I need ot power down and really fiddle with the loop and tip it upside down sometimes to start the process. 

 

I'm just wondering whether the ML range are known for this sort of thing and whether some AIOs are better at keep air bubbles out than others?

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11 minutes ago, CeePeeBee said:

The ML120L and 240L are from Cooler Master...........

Exactly what I said


CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: 1TB HP EX920 PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172), 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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Posted · Original PosterOP
2 minutes ago, Jurrunio said:

Exactly what I said

Sorry I mis-read your point. I thought you were saying Cooler Master are bad, buy a new Cooler Master product :)

 

Okay, thanks for the update - which AIO do you recommend then? H100i SE? Something else?

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Have you seen the alphacool eisbaer products? Their LT variants have a smaller block which you might like. If you want to make sure that this bubbling problem doesn't come up again, you could add a reservoir to that. If you don't want to add a large extra part my idea would be to add T fitting with quick disconnects in the inlet tube. You could fill the loop through the quickdisconnect on the 3rd opening of the T fitting, then remove the filler tube.


My i7780x-iw build:  i7 7700k @5.0Ghz max 68C, Delidded with LM- Msi Gaming 4G 980  @1441Mhz max 62C- Msi z270 Gaming Pro Carbon - Hyperx Savage 2x4GB + Corsair Vengeance LP 2x4GB @3000mhz CL16 - Be Quiet Straight Power E11 650w - InWin 303 Black - EK-Kit S240 - NB eLoop 120mm PWM - Be Quiet Shadow Wings 140mm 1000rpm (3pcs) - Bitfenix Spectre LED PWM 120mm (4pcs) - Samsung 250GB 860 Evo - Seagate Barracuda 1TB + 2TB - Phanteks Cable Extension kit B&W

Peripherals:  Acer XF270HBbmiiprzx 144hz 1080p TN - LG Flatron IPS235V 60hz 1080p IPS - CM Storm Quickfire TK - Coolermaster MK750 - CM Storm Reaper - Logitech G303 - Logitech G502 - Logitech G603

Audio:  Samson SR850 - Trust Screamer - Creative Gigaworks T20 II

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2 hours ago, CeePeeBee said:

Sorry I mis-read your point. I thought you were saying Cooler Master are bad, buy a new Cooler Master product :)

 

Okay, thanks for the update - which AIO do you recommend then? H100i SE? Something else?

Also the NZXT X52, if you're into looks. CM ML240R is another option, though their even newer ML240P seems to have gone backwards in overall performance.


CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: 1TB HP EX920 PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172), 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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If you want low noise, then AIO is not for you.

But if you are adamant on AIO, then get Alphacool Eisbaer 240 LT. It uses better pump than most of other AIOs, so you can get good cooling performance even with 7v adapter, which brings the pump noise to lower level


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Posted · Original PosterOP

Thanks for your replies all.

 

I've checked out the Alphacool Eisbaer - it's hideous :) I'm sure it performs great but the block needs to be kind of aesthetically pleasing, and so do the tubes (which seem to have disconnects on them in the pics I've seen).

 

I could just continue with the M240 L RGB and just keep tipping but I'd prefer something a equivalent but with a better rep.

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1 hour ago, CeePeeBee said:

Thanks for your replies all.

 

I've checked out the Alphacool Eisbaer - it's hideous :) I'm sure it performs great but the block needs to be kind of aesthetically pleasing, and so do the tubes (which seem to have disconnects on them in the pics I've seen).

 

I could just continue with the M240 L RGB and just keep tipping but I'd prefer something a equivalent but with a better rep.

Did you check Eisbaer  or Eisbaer LT

Regarding the tubes, you can replace them with whatever tubes you want, including hard tubing.


Ex-EX build: Liquidfy C+... R.I.P.

Ex-build:

Meshify C – sold

Ryzen 5 1600x @4.0 GHz/1.4V – sold

Gigabyte X370 Aorus Gaming K7 – sold

Corsair Vengeance LPX 2x8 GB @3200 Mhz – sold

Alpenfoehn Brocken 3 Black Edition – it's somewhere

Sapphire Vega 56 Pulse – ded

Intel SSD 660p 1TB – sold

be Quiet! Straight Power 11 750w – sold

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1 hour ago, Quadriplegic said:

Regarding the tubes, you can replace them with whatever tubes you want, including hard tubing.

i agree, though refilling it wouldn't be the easiest thing ever. I see that there's an extra opening on the side of the block, nevertheless i think it would be far from being an easy job


My i7780x-iw build:  i7 7700k @5.0Ghz max 68C, Delidded with LM- Msi Gaming 4G 980  @1441Mhz max 62C- Msi z270 Gaming Pro Carbon - Hyperx Savage 2x4GB + Corsair Vengeance LP 2x4GB @3000mhz CL16 - Be Quiet Straight Power E11 650w - InWin 303 Black - EK-Kit S240 - NB eLoop 120mm PWM - Be Quiet Shadow Wings 140mm 1000rpm (3pcs) - Bitfenix Spectre LED PWM 120mm (4pcs) - Samsung 250GB 860 Evo - Seagate Barracuda 1TB + 2TB - Phanteks Cable Extension kit B&W

Peripherals:  Acer XF270HBbmiiprzx 144hz 1080p TN - LG Flatron IPS235V 60hz 1080p IPS - CM Storm Quickfire TK - Coolermaster MK750 - CM Storm Reaper - Logitech G303 - Logitech G502 - Logitech G603

Audio:  Samson SR850 - Trust Screamer - Creative Gigaworks T20 II

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Posted · Original PosterOP

Thanks for all your replies.

 

I've taken the rad off, moved it around a bit...let it fully loop a few times but sadly I still get sporadic bubbling that seems to last for a good 25mins at a time.

 

Out of warranty so no RMA - looking for a replacement I think

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Posted · Original PosterOP
2 hours ago, SavageNeo said:

Go to bios and make custom curve on the aio. Or put it on silent mode. Disable PBO and CPB in bios

Hey, thanks.

 

It's the pump that's causing the issue and I've tried changing the curve on the AIO pump. Sometimes if I set it to off then immediately 100% again it clears the issue. It has to be air bubbles right? It's just so bloody loud and happens often!

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