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David Vu

PC won't POST, solid red CPU light on mobo after overclock ( new build)

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Posted · Original PosterOP

Hi everyone,

So I've completed my new build for about a week, everything was running great: no overheating, everything is cool and smooth. And ... I decided to overclock it today (I currently own a new I9 9900k).

 

So I was following some youtube tutorial to attempt to overclock my new CPU to 5.0ghz, just to see how lucky I am with this new CPU (If I remember correctly, I set my vcore to 1.350v). After I click save&exit, the PC fails to boot again. Fans and CPU cooler would be turned on for about 10 secs and the system would reboot again ( NO I/O )

CPU debug LED is solid red. I've tried reseting the bios using CMOS jumper and removing the battery method but none of those works. Do you guys think that I accidentally fried my CPU? I wasn't able to test out the new settings at all so I think this is unlikely.

 

Maybe my PSU is failing? I have had this PSU for about 4+ years ( from my old build). I didn't get a new one because I was thinking 650w would probably enough for an RTX 2080ti and a i9 9900k.

I've ordered a new 850w PSU and it is on its way. In the meantime, how do I go about ruling out that my mobo and my CPU aren't dead?
Thanks

 

System specs:
16gb ram 3200
Gigabyte Z390 Aorus Pro
i9-9900k
RTX 2080ti
Rosewill 650w PSU 80+ Gold Cert (I have had this about 4+ years)

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22 minutes ago, David Vu said:

how do I go about ruling out that my mobo and my CPU aren't dead?

You'll need a spare CPU or motherboard that you know works.


PLEASE QUOTE ME IF YOU ARE REPLYING TO ME
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Leave it unplugged for a while and press and hold down the power button

 

Try again in a couple hours.

 

Mysteriously this has helped me in the past.


My System: i7-8700k 5.0ghz delidded @1.365v // Cryorig H7 Quad Lumi // Gigabyte Aorus Z370 Gaming 5 // 16GB Corsair Vengeance DDR4 3200 // Sapphire Radeon RX Vega 64 UV/OC 1677core/1050hbm // NZXT S340 White // Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 850w // Intel 660P 1TB NVME M.2 SSD/120GB PNY CS900/480GB PNY CS1311/1TB Hitachi Deskstar // Displays: ASUS VG248QE/Acer K242HYL/Acer K242HYL // Corsair K68 Mechanical Keyboard - Logitech G502 // Corsair H70 Gaming Headset

 

Wife's System: i7-8700 // Arctic Freezer 33 // Gigabyte Z390M Gaming // 16GB Corsair Vengeance LPX 3200 // Sapphire Vega 56 8GB // Thermaltake Versa H17 // Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 850w // 500GB Silicon Power A55/4TB Western Digital HDD // Displays: ASUS VG245H/ASUS VP248Q // Corsair K68 Mechanical Keyboard // Logitech G602

 

TV Gamer: Ryzen 5 1600 3.8Ghz @1.375v // Wraith Spire // Gigabyte B450 Aorus M // 16GB GeIL DDR4 3200 // XFX Radeon RX 580 8GB // Thermaltake Versa H17 // Corsair Vengeance 650W // 120GB Sandisk SSD/4TB Western Digital Blue // Display: 50" Westinghouse 1080p // Rii Wireless Mini Keyboard w/Touchpad/Xbox One Controllers

 

Son's System: i5-9400 // Cryorig H7 Quad Lumi // ASRock Z370 Extreme 4 // 16GB Corsair Vengeance DDr4 3200 // ASUS Radeon RX 570 4GB // NZXT S340 Black // Seasonic S12II 620w Bronze // 525GB Crucial MX300/500GB Wester Digital Blue // Display: Dell P2417H - Eagletech KG010 Mechanical Keyboard // Logitech G203

 

 

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11 hours ago, David Vu said:

Hi everyone,

So I've completed my new build for about a week, everything was running great: no overheating, everything is cool and smooth. And ... I decided to overclock it today (I currently own a new I9 9900k).

 

So I was following some youtube tutorial to attempt to overclock my new CPU to 5.0ghz, just to see how lucky I am with this new CPU (If I remember correctly, I set my vcore to 1.350v). After I click save&exit, the PC fails to boot again. Fans and CPU cooler would be turned on for about 10 secs and the system would reboot again ( NO I/O )

CPU debug LED is solid red. I've tried reseting the bios using CMOS jumper and removing the battery method but none of those works. Do you guys think that I accidentally fried my CPU? I wasn't able to test out the new settings at all so I think this is unlikely.

 

Maybe my PSU is failing? I have had this PSU for about 4+ years ( from my old build). I didn't get a new one because I was thinking 650w would probably enough for an RTX 2080ti and a i9 9900k.

I've ordered a new 850w PSU and it is on its way. In the meantime, how do I go about ruling out that my mobo and my CPU aren't dead?
Thanks

 

System specs:
16gb ram 3200
Gigabyte Z390 Aorus Pro
i9-9900k
RTX 2080ti
Rosewill 650w PSU 80+ Gold Cert (I have had this about 4+ years)

RAM training probably failed.

You need to clear CMOS correctly.  However there HAVE Been cases where, if you used the power button to power off after a RAM timing fail, instead of flipping the power supply rocker switch, the BIOS can get corrupted completely, which is a problem on the Aorus Pro/Ultra/Wifi, since there is no onboard switch for switching main/backup BIOSes (This was mentioned on Buildzoid's video for RAM testing on the Aorus Master, he said, if you get a RAM timing fail, flip the power supply switch, not the case power button, but I am not sure what difference that makes).

 

Unplug the power supply from the wall/AC cable.

Use a screwdriver to short the clear CMOS jumper for 30 seconds.  

Replug in AC power supply cable.

 

System should now POST normally after several on/off fast boot loops (usually two fast 1-second on-off cycles, followed by a 30 second on-off cycle, followed by a POST).

 

If this STILL fails, try the following:

 

1) Power off with the power supply rocker switch.

2) hold down power+reset case buttons while powering on.  Hold down both until it powers off by itself.

3) Power on.  System should switch to the other BIOS and POST.

 

If this still fails, you have two nuclear options:

 

1) unplug AC, take out all RAM dimms, plug power cable, power on with NO RAM inserted.  This will fail of course but the BIOS may be corrupted and may be able to be restored unless the BIOS is completely unwriteable.

Power off, unplug AC Again, power on.  This works for many people.

 

2) unplug AC, take out RAM and CPU from the socket, plug in power cable, power on with no CPU inserted (fail), power off, insert RAM, power on with no CPU inserted, power off, insert CPU, reapply thermal paste (you need to have spare paste available, but if you are desperate, spread the 'old' paste around but be prepared for bad temps), power on.

 

This will ALWAYS work IF the CPU or BIOS are not destroyed.

The purpose of those two steps is to force the BIOS to completely reactivate and reset its NVRAM, when clearing CMOS won't even work.

 

If none of these work, the motherboard is most likely dead.  Probably a corrupt BIOS.  Very unlikely the CPU simply died.

 

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Posted · Original PosterOP
8 hours ago, Falkentyne said:

RAM training probably failed.

You need to clear CMOS correctly.  However there HAVE Been cases where, if you used the power button to power off after a RAM timing fail, instead of flipping the power supply rocker switch, the BIOS can get corrupted completely, which is a problem on the Aorus Pro/Ultra/Wifi, since there is no onboard switch for switching main/backup BIOSes (This was mentioned on Buildzoid's video for RAM testing on the Aorus Master, he said, if you get a RAM timing fail, flip the power supply switch, not the case power button, but I am not sure what difference that makes).

 

Unplug the power supply from the wall/AC cable.

Use a screwdriver to short the clear CMOS jumper for 30 seconds.  

Replug in AC power supply cable.

 

System should now POST normally after several on/off fast boot loops (usually two fast 1-second on-off cycles, followed by a 30 second on-off cycle, followed by a POST).

 

If this STILL fails, try the following:

 

1) Power off with the power supply rocker switch.

2) hold down power+reset case buttons while powering on.  Hold down both until it powers off by itself.

3) Power on.  System should switch to the other BIOS and POST.

 

If this still fails, you have two nuclear options:

 

1) unplug AC, take out all RAM dimms, plug power cable, power on with NO RAM inserted.  This will fail of course but the BIOS may be corrupted and may be able to be restored unless the BIOS is completely unwriteable.

Power off, unplug AC Again, power on.  This works for many people.

 

2) unplug AC, take out RAM and CPU from the socket, plug in power cable, power on with no CPU inserted (fail), power off, insert RAM, power on with no CPU inserted, power off, insert CPU, reapply thermal paste (you need to have spare paste available, but if you are desperate, spread the 'old' paste around but be prepared for bad temps), power on.

 

This will ALWAYS work IF the CPU or BIOS are not destroyed.

The purpose of those two steps is to force the BIOS to completely reactivate and reset its NVRAM, when clearing CMOS won't even work.

 

If none of these work, the motherboard is most likely dead.  Probably a corrupt BIOS.  Very unlikely the CPU simply died.

 

Thank you so much for the constructive answer.

I think it's very likely that my bios is corrupted. I just rma both my CPU and mobo back to newegg for a replacement just in case. Hopefully the request gets authorized because I just ordered the parts less than a week ago.

By the way, do you guys know how strictly is newegg when it comes to return/replacement? I'm missing a few screws in my mobo box, that shouldn't hurt anything right?

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Just try booting up with one stick of ram in there.. might force the bios to realise there has been a hardware change.

Only reason I mention its worth a try is that I had a similar issue back in the day when i was overclocking my 5820k.. tried bios reset and battery with no luck.. Starting with only one stick of ram in there instead of the 4 seemed to kick the bios back into action.. similar to how the guy mentions it above..

No idea if it will help but worth a shot before you RMA the stuff.

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