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LukeSavenije

[psucultists] PSU Tier List

Spotty

For help choosing a power supply please Create a New Thread asking for assistance including your budget and system hardware to receive the best answers relevant to your specific needs.

Message added by Spotty

- Vote stage two

Just two variants this time. Choose wisely.

Variant A - keep it as is, i.e low priority units have gray color but placed inline

Variant B - split off low priority units to subtier

Open the spoiler for visual assist :

Spoiler

1.thumb.png.523eade3f308c4e61b4949feb1dea4fd.png

 

for 15.0 update (part 2  

100 members have voted

  1. 1. what variant is preferable for you?

    • a: keep it as is
      11
    • b: give gray color units it's own tier
      34


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Posted · Original PosterOP
Just now, Sapphiree said:

Take seasonic and keep your head calm, lower price for adata doesn't come from anything even if the interior is based on seasonic platform.

ehm... no?

 

it's a CWT... not even anywhere close to any Seasonic unit

missing-image.svg


PSU Tier List 4.0//Motherboard Tier List//Community Standards//ATX Specification//Group Regulation//Topologies and Regulations//How many watts?//PSU Protections

Don't forget to quote or mention me

 

Primary PC:

Spoiler

CPU: I5-8600k 5.0ghz

GPU: GTX 1070 ti EVGA SC Gaming

RAM: 2x8 3333 mhz DDR4 Trident Z

MOBO: MSI Gaming Pro Carbon AC

HDD: 1 TB 7200 RPM Seagate Baracudda, 1 TB 5400 RPM Samsung Spinpoint HD103SI

SSD: Samsung 860 EVO 500 GB

Case: Cooler Master Masterbox Lite 5 RGB (modified)

PSU: Seasonic Focus GX650

 

Consoles:

Spoiler

PS4 Slim Glacier White 500 GB

PS4 FTP Special Edition 500 GB

PS3 Super Slim 500 GB

PS2 OG

Xbox OG

DS Lite White

DS Lite Black/blue

DS Lite Blue

DSI XL Orange

Gameboy Advanced Color

PS Vita v2

Wii

 

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5 hours ago, Sapphiree said:

Take seasonic and keep your head calm, lower price for adata doesn't come from anything even if the interior is based on seasonic platform. There is a saying - you pay twice for cheap.

You're saying that like you know smth bad about that ADATA unit we do not. It surely doesn't break performance records, but with 15$ between it and Seasonic Focus Gold (which doesn't have particularly fantastic performance either), i wouldn't say that the latter is worth it.


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6 hours ago, Sapphiree said:

Take seasonic and keep your head calm, lower price for adata doesn't come from anything even if the interior is based on seasonic platform. There is a saying - you pay twice for cheap.

But the XPG Core Reactor isn't cheap, in any sense of the word. It's cheap-er to buy, but the quality is around the same as the GX, though the Core Reactor is based off of a CWT platform, not Seasonic's


CPU: Intel® Core™ i9-9900K Processor  Motherboard: ASRock Phantom Gaming 4-CB  CPU Cooler: Scythe Fuma 2  GPU: Asus Dual OC 2080  RAM: Corsair Vengeance 32GB (4x8GB) 3000Mhz CL15

Case: CyberpowerPC Onyxia (Proprietary Thermaltake View 21, side intake, not front)  PSU: ATNG 800w 80+ Bronze (replacing when shortage is over) Storage: 1TB Western Digital Blue 3D + 1TB Crucial P1 + 1TB ADATA XPG Gammix S11 Pro + 4TB Seagate Barracuda 5400RPM OS: Windows 10 Home

Headphones: Philips SHP9500s   Keyboard: Corsair K70 RGB MK.2 Cherry MX Red  Displays: Acer XG270HU (27" 1440p 144hz TN), Samsung UN32EH4003FXZA (32" 768p 60hz TV)

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4 minutes ago, thestarsarehigh said:

First review I've found of the Seasonic Prime Fanless TX-700. It's in German but Chrome translated it pretty well. Never heard of this website though. 

Gamezoom 'reviews' aren't reviews by any means, just a bunch of randomly generated data, info found online in other sources and stolen images.


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On 5/1/2020 at 11:37 AM, Juular said:

Entire Seasonic S12III series are independent regulation, not DC-DC but double mag amp, it would be moved to tier B in the next revision. You might've heard about Seasonic S12II 650W+ which is DC-DC indeed, or rather units with wattage like X50W are DC-DC, whereas X30W ones are group. reg.

Why is it grayed out now? I am pretty sure it was regular few days ago...

 

I am building a PC for a friend with 5500 xt 8gb, Ryzen 1600 AF and 8gb of RAM, and was thinking about getting 550w version, but i am not sure right now and would use some advice.

 

Offer is not great in that price range, and the only "ok" units are Chieftec Proton BDF-S (2 years warranty), Cooler Master MWE White and Masterwatt Lite and LC Power Super Silent...so if there's something wrong with S12iii, then it will be really hard to find something decent...

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1 hour ago, the_hateful_one said:

Why is it grayed out now?

Not sure, but well, for the start it doesn't have any detailed reviews from reliable sources, there are that Polish review with crossloads at least but it's hard to say it can be trusted. But, since it's a budget PSU, with appropriate price tag it would be good choice still. If Chieftec Proton or CM MWE (if it's V2, with MPE suffix) is the same price or cheaper then go for them instead. As of LC Power, their lineups are hell, you need to tell exact model or link it.


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Hi

 

I thinking of buying the Corsair rm750x 2018, but got some what of a weird question 😅

 

If i look up the NA model and the EU model of rm750x 2018, then they look a little different from the back and the NA model seems larger?

 

asking because my local/online shop has a picture of the one with the blue in it, but corsair own has the picture of the other one with the big coils? and then I became curious as why there are different pictures of the same model ?  

 

CP-9020179-EU and CP-9020179-NA

 

and when i look at jonnyguru review of it, then it looks more as the NA model then the EU model?

 

EDIT: Ahhh is it because they use the picture of the 2015 model of the rm750x ?? 
EDIT 2: But then i don't know  why Jonnyguru rm750x 2018 looks different?

 

CP-9020179-NA.thumb.jpg.790137c3c08ad908d45ba92bb1d21ee1.jpgCP-9020179-EU.thumb.jpg.35ac61b1f3fd37c13b2c0f713bd3a533.jpg

 

 

 

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Posted · Original PosterOP
14 minutes ago, Gungi said:

and when i look at jonnyguru review of it, then it looks more as the NA model then the EU model?

tldr: there are two RMx versions, that aren't region dependent, rather are age dependent

 

there was one in 2015 that was bigger than the current 2018 version, which are the versions you're comparing

 

they're otherwise similar in performance, but are based off two different CWT platforms, that's why you're seeing differences


PSU Tier List 4.0//Motherboard Tier List//Community Standards//ATX Specification//Group Regulation//Topologies and Regulations//How many watts?//PSU Protections

Don't forget to quote or mention me

 

Primary PC:

Spoiler

CPU: I5-8600k 5.0ghz

GPU: GTX 1070 ti EVGA SC Gaming

RAM: 2x8 3333 mhz DDR4 Trident Z

MOBO: MSI Gaming Pro Carbon AC

HDD: 1 TB 7200 RPM Seagate Baracudda, 1 TB 5400 RPM Samsung Spinpoint HD103SI

SSD: Samsung 860 EVO 500 GB

Case: Cooler Master Masterbox Lite 5 RGB (modified)

PSU: Seasonic Focus GX650

 

Consoles:

Spoiler

PS4 Slim Glacier White 500 GB

PS4 FTP Special Edition 500 GB

PS3 Super Slim 500 GB

PS2 OG

Xbox OG

DS Lite White

DS Lite Black/blue

DS Lite Blue

DSI XL Orange

Gameboy Advanced Color

PS Vita v2

Wii

 

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13 minutes ago, LukeSavenije said:

tldr: there are two RMx versions, that aren't region dependent, rather are age dependent

 

there was one in 2015 that was bigger than the current 2018 version, which are the versions you're comparing

 

they're otherwise similar in performance, but are based off two different CWT platforms, that's why you're seeing differences

 

Okay its just here is the link to jonnyguru review of the 2018 model

http://www.jonnyguru.com/blog/2018/05/08/corsair-rm750x-2018-750w-power-supply/2/

 

And here is the link to corsair rm750x model

 

https://www.corsair.com/eu/en/Categories/Products/Power-Supply-Units/Power-Supply-Units-Advanced/RMx-Series/p/CP-9020179-EU

 

both should be the 2018 version right?

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4 hours ago, Gungi said:

both should be the 2018 version right?

Yes, differences in transient filter you see might be just general revisions CWT did at some point, but bridge rectifier heatsink and Y-caps still suggest that it's 2018 version.


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Sorry for late response.

On 6/23/2020 at 11:33 PM, Juular said:

If Chieftec Proton or CM MWE (if it's V2, with MPE suffix) is the same price or cheaper then go for them instead.

I am a bit conufsed now, isn't MWE V2 MPE model grayed out in the current list? Btw that exact model is available and all units are around the same price point...

 

And just so we are clear, you still think MWE is better choice than S12iii even if it's just 80+ certified? Also S12iii comes with 5 years warranty as opposed to 3 years for MWE...

 

I will skip LC model...

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@the_hateful_one MWE V2 is grayed out because current revision has problems with higher than expected ripple at low load, still below specifications and it's better unit than both Chieftec Proton BDF-S and Seasonic S12III technically, but really, for this build it doesn't really matter much and if you were to upgrade it eventually i'd recommend to look at smth more expensive anyway.


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2 minutes ago, Juular said:

@the_hateful_one MWE V2 is grayed out because current revision has problems with higher than expected ripple at low load, still below specifications and it's better unit than both Chieftec Proton BDF-S and Seasonic S12III technically, but really, for this build it doesn't really matter much and if you were to upgrade it eventually i'd recommend to look at smth more expensive anyway.

I hear you loud and clear, i was putting way to much thinking into it definitely :D

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On 6/25/2020 at 5:25 PM, Juular said:

@the_hateful_one MWE V2 is grayed out because current revision has problems with higher than expected ripple at low load, still below specifications and it's better unit than both Chieftec Proton BDF-S and Seasonic S12III technically, but really, for this build it doesn't really matter much and if you were to upgrade it eventually i'd recommend to look at smth more expensive anyway.

Hi there!  I have a month old Gaming PC (Ryzen 5-3600 / Nvidia Geforce 1660 TI / Asus Tuf B450 Plus Gaming).  The PSU I have is the MWE V2 650 (100-240V Input).  Should i be concerned?  Everything is at stock (PBO off) and I typically just game on it and keep it turned off when I am not using it.  What specifically can higher than expected ripple at low load do to a pc? 

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4 hours ago, Imp07 said:

What specifically can higher than expected ripple at low load do to a pc? 

It's higher than expected for the PSU with this topology and it's components, seems to be some issue with burst mode of PWM controller at low loads. Most tier B units would have just as much ripple across entire load range anyway and it's not that high overall so don't worry.


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2 hours ago, Juular said:

It's higher than expected for the PSU with this topology and it's components, seems to be some issue with burst mode of PWM controller at low loads. Most tier B units would have just as much ripple across entire load range anyway and it's not that high overall so don't worry.

Thank you so much!  I won't worry then and will enjoy my gaming PC :)

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wp_20200625_19_53_46_pro.thumb.jpg.78fe23fae5cb219e124f3fec23ae30f9.jpg

This happened, luckily i caught it before it did further damage. Anyone any idea how to get the plastic out of the connector on my motherbord or do i just need to buy a new one? 

wp_20200627_16_43_34_pro.jpg

WP_20200627_16_47_59_Pro (1).jpg

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5 minutes ago, legobrammetje said:

 

This happened, luckily i caught it before it did further damage. Anyone any idea how to get the plastic out of the connector on my motherbord or do i just need to buy a new one? 

 

This is why we don't cheap out on power supplies. Anyway, if the plastic is melted on, you are basically screwed and need both a new power supply and motherboard.


CPU: Intel® Core™ i9-9900K Processor  Motherboard: ASRock Phantom Gaming 4-CB  CPU Cooler: Scythe Fuma 2  GPU: Asus Dual OC 2080  RAM: Corsair Vengeance 32GB (4x8GB) 3000Mhz CL15

Case: CyberpowerPC Onyxia (Proprietary Thermaltake View 21, side intake, not front)  PSU: ATNG 800w 80+ Bronze (replacing when shortage is over) Storage: 1TB Western Digital Blue 3D + 1TB Crucial P1 + 1TB ADATA XPG Gammix S11 Pro + 4TB Seagate Barracuda 5400RPM OS: Windows 10 Home

Headphones: Philips SHP9500s   Keyboard: Corsair K70 RGB MK.2 Cherry MX Red  Displays: Acer XG270HU (27" 1440p 144hz TN), Samsung UN32EH4003FXZA (32" 768p 60hz TV)

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Posted · Original PosterOP
33 minutes ago, legobrammetje said:

This happened, luckily i caught it before it did further damage. Anyone any idea how to get the plastic out of the connector on my motherbord or do i just need to buy a new one? 

I'm afraid that motherboard is done... it looks like the plastic from the connector either covered or melted the pins


PSU Tier List 4.0//Motherboard Tier List//Community Standards//ATX Specification//Group Regulation//Topologies and Regulations//How many watts?//PSU Protections

Don't forget to quote or mention me

 

Primary PC:

Spoiler

CPU: I5-8600k 5.0ghz

GPU: GTX 1070 ti EVGA SC Gaming

RAM: 2x8 3333 mhz DDR4 Trident Z

MOBO: MSI Gaming Pro Carbon AC

HDD: 1 TB 7200 RPM Seagate Baracudda, 1 TB 5400 RPM Samsung Spinpoint HD103SI

SSD: Samsung 860 EVO 500 GB

Case: Cooler Master Masterbox Lite 5 RGB (modified)

PSU: Seasonic Focus GX650

 

Consoles:

Spoiler

PS4 Slim Glacier White 500 GB

PS4 FTP Special Edition 500 GB

PS3 Super Slim 500 GB

PS2 OG

Xbox OG

DS Lite White

DS Lite Black/blue

DS Lite Blue

DSI XL Orange

Gameboy Advanced Color

PS Vita v2

Wii

 

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35 minutes ago, MrBrightSyde said:

This is why we don't cheap out on power supplies. Anyway, if the plastic is melted on, you are basically screwed and need both a new power supply and motherboard.

More likely that the connector just wasn't plugged in all the way


 

Quote

Women. They are a complete mystery.

-Stephen Hawking

 

I think the hoomans put their builds here?

Why do you hoomans give your builds a name? Here's my build, which I shall call "Do as I Say, Not As I Do" (seriously, don't get this build)

Spoiler

Ryzen 1500X @3,925 GHz

Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo + 2x ML120

MSI B350 Tomahawk Arctic

2x8GB Corsair Vengeance LPX 3000 MHz CL15 (Micron B-die) @2933 MHz

Sapphire Radeon R9 280 Dual-X @1120 MHz / 1450 MHz

120GB 850 Evo

120GB Kingston SSD

500GB WD Blue

Cooler Master Elite 430

Seasonic Prime Titanium 650W

Logitech G710 with Kailh Box Jade

Logitech G502

HyperX Cloud

And my laptop, which I shall call "If It's Stupid But It Works" (It can actually play CS:GO at 50 FPS, and Civ V at 25 FPS)

Spoiler

Lenovo Thinkpad L460

Intel Core i3 6100U

4GB (probably) DDR4 2133 MHz

Intel HD Graphics 520 0.3-1.0 GHz

128GB Samsung MZ7LF128HCHP

Corsair M65 Pro RGB (worst mouse I've ever had)

Sennheiser CX 5.00G

And here would be where I would put a picture of my cat. But apparently, images are not allowed here. So take this instead (*ΦωΦ*)

Hello fellow night theme users

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14 hours ago, legobrammetje said:

This happened, luckily i caught it before it did further damage.

I'm guessing there was a smell that gave away something's wrong? Looks gruesome.

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Hello, i've come with two new additions to the PSU market in Turkey

 

https://www.teknobiyotik.com/donanim/psu-guc-kaynagi-power-supply/high-power-element-br-750w-80-bronze-siyah-atx-guc-kaynagi-hp1-m750br-h12s.html

Its supposed to be DC-DC PSU. any idea what would be its equal?

 

second one is a cheaper FSP PSU,

 

https://inventus.com.tr/mi_products/Product.aspx?PID=10915

https://www.fsplifestyle.com/en/product/HVPRO550W.html

 

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@viceice Really hard to say what is that High Power PSU, it almost looks like it isn't made by Sirfa but so far it indeed looks like DC-DC but not LLC so if anything it would endup no higher than in tier B if we'll find more about it.

FSP PSU looks like yet another variation of Hexa 85+ platform.


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