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Budddy1

Is this a reliable power supply?

After reading every reply i have determined i need to learn more, i will eventually recycle it and invest in a modern Psu, Thank you all for criticizing my judgement and i will keep you all updated in another thread. Thanks!

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Not really sure, but I read some forums about the one who made it (coolmax) and they say, it's cheap, but it's the strongest one in the 50-70$ range. I would suggest doing more research though.

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Absolutely not.

Its a near ancient, very cheaply made PSU. Buy a better psu.


IBM Thinkpad Z61t

The 10 commandments of the modern tech support forum:

-Do not use the "home" edition of any OS and then complain you cant do something OS related.

-Do not update Windows 10 if it functions normally at the time.

-For the love of god dont update Nvidia drivers beyond 10 versions past release, if it doesnt work normally by then its just screwed. If you keep going its going to eventually perform worse than it did before.

-Always update AMD drivers as for some reason they are the polar opposite and cant get their drivers to work on release but they work great 5 years later.

-Do not download any Antivirus software, Windows Defender is adequate at keeping you from being stupid, other than that you only need Common Sense 2006 edition.

-Google your problems first, the helpful people on tech support forums are just people who know how to use google.

-Dont discuss irrelevancies on tech support forums, an answer to OP's question must be the first line of your first reply to a thread, follow it with whatever.

-Dont use any software that claims to fix registry errors.

-There are more brands out there than Corsair and EVGA, at least try and be original.

-Read your own posts before you post them.

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Take a note of its age, the sticker that says it supports an AMD Athlon or Pentium 4.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/224363/Coolmax-Cf-350b.html#product-FL-480ATX

The series is from pre 2004, they dont have 24 pins and still have an aux power connector for old xeon boards.

You couldnt actually power anything that has a pcie slot, the extra 4 pins on a 24 pin are for pcie, and this only has a 20 pin.

As well as a P4 cpu power connector instead of eps, let alone 8 pin eps.


IBM Thinkpad Z61t

The 10 commandments of the modern tech support forum:

-Do not use the "home" edition of any OS and then complain you cant do something OS related.

-Do not update Windows 10 if it functions normally at the time.

-For the love of god dont update Nvidia drivers beyond 10 versions past release, if it doesnt work normally by then its just screwed. If you keep going its going to eventually perform worse than it did before.

-Always update AMD drivers as for some reason they are the polar opposite and cant get their drivers to work on release but they work great 5 years later.

-Do not download any Antivirus software, Windows Defender is adequate at keeping you from being stupid, other than that you only need Common Sense 2006 edition.

-Google your problems first, the helpful people on tech support forums are just people who know how to use google.

-Dont discuss irrelevancies on tech support forums, an answer to OP's question must be the first line of your first reply to a thread, follow it with whatever.

-Dont use any software that claims to fix registry errors.

-There are more brands out there than Corsair and EVGA, at least try and be original.

-Read your own posts before you post them.

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If you have a Pentium 4 it's probably great!

 

Otherwise no.


I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k (won) - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Kill Trident Z RGB - Force MP500 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - The venerated Hyper 212 Evo (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G2 650W - Black and green theme, Razer branwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

Linux Proliant ML150 G6:

Dual Xeon X5560 - 24GB ECC DDR3 - GTX 750 TI - old Seagate 1.5TB HDD - Dark moded Ubuntu (and Win7, cuz why not)

 

EVGA G3 thread, BR/BT threadSeasonic Focus thread, S12II/M12II thread, Userbenchmark (Et al.) is trash explained, PSU misconceptions

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Take a closer look on the output table...

12V*18A=216W
Max on 12V: 180W

 

240W+180W=420W
Max combined: 450W

 

Who knows what else they might be making up?


 

Quote

Women. They are a complete mystery.

-Stephen Hawking

 

I think the hoomans put their builds here?

Why do you hoomans give your builds a name? Here's my build, which I shall call "Do as I Say, Not As I Do" (seriously, don't get this build)

Spoiler

Ryzen 1500X @3,925 GHz

Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo + 2x ML120

MSI B350 Tomahawk Arctic

2x8GB Corsair Vengeance LPX 3000 MHz CL15 (Micron B-die) @2933 MHz

Sapphire Radeon R9 280 Dual-X @1120 MHz / 1450 MHz

120GB 850 Evo

120GB Kingston SSD

500GB WD Blue

Cooler Master Elite 430

Seasonic Prime Titanium 650W

Logitech G710 with Kailh Box Jade

Logitech G502

HyperX Cloud

And my laptop, which I shall call "If It's Stupid But It Works" (It can actually play CS:GO at 50 FPS, and Civ V at 25 FPS)

Spoiler

Lenovo Thinkpad L460

Intel Core i3 6100U

4GB (probably) DDR4 2133 MHz

Intel HD Graphics 520 0.3-1.0 GHz

128GB Samsung MZ7LF128HCHP

Corsair M65 Pro RGB (worst mouse I've ever had)

Sennheiser CX 5.00G

And here would be where I would put a picture of my cat. But apparently, images are not allowed here. So take this instead (*ΦωΦ*)

Hello fellow night theme users

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Posted · Original PosterOP
1 minute ago, Streetguru said:

What exactly are you trying to put together?

I was planning on using it for a test bench of older computer hardware anywhere from lga 1366 till am3 etc

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4 minutes ago, Budddy1 said:

I was planning on using it for a test bench of older computer hardware anywhere from lga 1366 till am3 etc

Do you want to start a house fire? Cause that's how you start a house fire. Seriously, an exploding capacitor is like shrapnel. You can seriously injure yourself with this. Toss it in the trash before you get hurt

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8 minutes ago, Budddy1 said:

I was planning on using it for a test bench of older computer hardware anywhere from lga 1366 till am3 etc

Probably just grab a more modern PSU so you don't have any potential issues.


I edit my posts a lot

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This is a joke, right?

 

I mean... I remember that PSU from 15 years ago.  It wasn't a good PSU 15 years ago.

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3 hours ago, seon123 said:

Take a closer look on the output table...

12V*18A=216W
Max on 12V: 180W

 

240W+180W=420W
Max combined: 450W

 

Who knows what else they might be making up?

No, max of 180W with 12V at 18A is correct. It's because they're anticipating under load the voltage will drop to 10V at 18A = 180W. It's max output of either 12V or 18A, not both at the same time.

 

You missed the -5V, -12V, and 5VSB.

-5V 1A = 5W

-12V 1A = 12W
5VSB 2.5A = 12.5W
There's your missing 29.5W.


How could you forget about the -12V rail? :P

 

/sarcasm


CPU: Intel i7 6700k  | Motherboard: Gigabyte Z170x Gaming 5 | RAM: 2x8GB 3000MHz G.Skill Ripjaws 5 | GPU: Gigabyte Aorus GTX 1080ti | PSU: Corsair RM750x (2018) | Case: BeQuiet SilentBase 800 | Cooler: Corsair H100i AIO | SSD: Samsung 970 Evo 500GB + Samsung 840 500GB | HDD: Seagate Ironwolf 8TB + 2x Seagate Ironwolf 6TB | Monitor: Acer Predator XB271HU + Samsung BX2450

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Although similar units are pretty common in my country I can see why they're almost treated as relics in more developed places, those things are literally ancient junk when compared to modern PSUs, it even comes with the 6-pin aux power.

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Posted · Original PosterOP · Best Answer

After reading every reply i have determined i need to learn more, i will eventually recycle it and invest in a modern Psu, Thank you all for criticizing my judgement and i will keep you all updated in another thread. Thanks!

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