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orze

costume water cooling for my pc?

For custom water cooling here are my thoughts:

 

Do you want a relatively cool and quiet computer? If so get a TR Noctua cooler and some good case fans.

 

Do you want a computer that is marginally cooler and costs a lot of money?  Then go custom water cooling.

 

This might make you think I don't like custom water cooling, but it's the total opposite.  If you want to take on a rather difficult project that ends with you owning a computer that looks incredible, is completely custom, and allows you to learn some new things then go with custom water cooling.   It will sure as hell be more rewarding than just slapping a new cooler on your PC, and also grants you access to the Kingdom of Turbo-Nerdom.

 

 

Oh also use a secondary PSU when filling the loop, that way if it leaks you won't destroy your hardware.

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Posted · Original PosterOP

so i got a pretty decent system and i do HAVE water cooling but its a AIO

not too long ago i was thinking on moving to a costume water cooling system like a decent 360mm rad and all.

but i donnu if its worth it.

like will my 1920x will get much lower temps? this days i got a 

https://www.arctic.ac/worldwide_en/liquid-freezer-360.html

and i had it for years now. back from my 5820k until today. and it been doing a decent work.

this days its still runs well with my cpu hitting a max of 84c (a 1920x Oc to 3.95ghz)

but i wonder if i get a beter cooler will i be able to push it the extra bit to reach 4ghz 

even tho i will most likely upgrade to a 3rd gen TR wan those will go out anyways.

still beter cooling wont hurt!

 

anyhow what do u think.

another plus im thinking is the next gpu ill get either navi or nvidia i will want to water cool so a costume system has it pluses.

i think its more down to do i do it now just cpu and add a gpu later. or is it not worth the headache now and just wait for the new gpu for the whole thing to happen

 


 

cpu: TR 1920

mobo: asus prime x399-a

gpu: asus strix 1080oc

ram: 32gb G.SKILL Trident Z 3200 c14

psu: Antec HCP1300w Platinum (overkill i know...got it for a good price)

thats all needed right?...i didnt learn to this exam....

 

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Look you never really need custom water cooling unless you are

1. Enthusiast

2. Want to lower the volume of you system so it wont be loud

 

I personally don't recommend the hassle because it's not as easy as you think and there is a high risk of everything breaking if you don't 100% know what you are doing. 

 

It's up to you if you think you need it and you are confident enough then go for it but otherwise I wouldn't recommend it your aio does the same thing essentially

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I don’t think I’ll go back from custom water cooling. 

 

Makes pc building better, also don’t have to hear as much from my rigs. 

 

I didnt know what I was doing but I’m not an idiot. Haven’t lost a single piece of hardware. Even with all the soaked parts and leaks. Plenty of real youtubers that make decent videos on it. 

 

Depends on what you want out of it and what you’re willing to invest. 

 

 


Main RIg Corsair Air 540, I7 8700k, ASUS ROG Strix Z370-H, G.Skill TridentZ 16GB, EVGA 1080 SC, EVGA 850 GQ, Acer KG251Q 1920x1080@240hz 

 

Spare RIg Corsair Air 540, I7 4770K, Asus Maximus VI Extreme, G.Skill Ares 32Gb, EVGA 1060 SSC, Corsair CX850M, Acer xG270HU 2560x1440@144hz

 

 

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Posted · Original PosterOP
2 hours ago, Mick Naughty said:

I don’t think I’ll go back from custom water cooling. 

 

Makes pc building better, also don’t have to hear as much from my rigs. 

 

I didnt know what I was doing but I’m not an idiot. Haven’t lost a single piece of hardware. Even with all the soaked parts and leaks. Plenty of real youtubers that make decent videos on it. 

 

Depends on what you want out of it and what you’re willing to invest. 

 

 

yea i was thinking of it too

im no stranger to building pc's i built this 1 

i also got a good freind who know this tuff allot so he said he will give me a hand

 

my thinking was more down on noise and cooling.

 

this pc at the end of the day isnt too loud.

loudest part is the GPU but im running a 1300w psu so i got allot of headroom for the fan not starting and a 360 rad so....not allot of fan speed needed for normal use

its just down to. wan i get a new gpu. is it worth it or is it worth it EVEN NOW.

like making a loop only for the cpu and later on adding the gpu.

thats all.

im gonna wait for the next gen of nvidia or amd gpu's anyways cus i got a 1080 that MORE then does the job for my case use of it...


 

cpu: TR 1920

mobo: asus prime x399-a

gpu: asus strix 1080oc

ram: 32gb G.SKILL Trident Z 3200 c14

psu: Antec HCP1300w Platinum (overkill i know...got it for a good price)

thats all needed right?...i didnt learn to this exam....

 

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I would never do custom for just cpu. Was normally never a concern with the noise from a cpu cooler but it’s a big issue now. Given how taxed they are. 

I had blocks on 4 out of 5 of my 1080’s. Just prefer it that way. Also boosts a lot higher cutting the temps in half 


Main RIg Corsair Air 540, I7 8700k, ASUS ROG Strix Z370-H, G.Skill TridentZ 16GB, EVGA 1080 SC, EVGA 850 GQ, Acer KG251Q 1920x1080@240hz 

 

Spare RIg Corsair Air 540, I7 4770K, Asus Maximus VI Extreme, G.Skill Ares 32Gb, EVGA 1060 SSC, Corsair CX850M, Acer xG270HU 2560x1440@144hz

 

 

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4 hours ago, Mick Naughty said:

I don’t think I’ll go back from custom water cooling. 

 

Makes pc building better, also don’t have to hear as much from my rigs. 

 

I didnt know what I was doing but I’m not an idiot. Haven’t lost a single piece of hardware. Even with all the soaked parts and leaks. Plenty of real youtubers that make decent videos on it. 

 

Depends on what you want out of it and what you’re willing to invest. 

 

 

I had a friend who followed a guide and he messed up on one tube and his mother board died it's still not for everyone if you did it doesn't mean everybody can the person has to be confident in themselves

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Posted · Original PosterOP
1 hour ago, Mick Naughty said:

I would never do custom for just cpu. Was normally never a concern with the noise from a cpu cooler but it’s a big issue now. Given how taxed they are. 

I had blocks on 4 out of 5 of my 1080’s. Just prefer it that way. Also boosts a lot higher cutting the temps in half 

in other words wait till a gpu i want comes out and make a system for it and my cpu....gotcha.

 

shouldent be a problem i will have the friend to help me if anything confuses me.


 

cpu: TR 1920

mobo: asus prime x399-a

gpu: asus strix 1080oc

ram: 32gb G.SKILL Trident Z 3200 c14

psu: Antec HCP1300w Platinum (overkill i know...got it for a good price)

thats all needed right?...i didnt learn to this exam....

 

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9 hours ago, Pauleft said:

Look you never really need custom water cooling unless you are

1. Enthusiast

2. Want to lower the volume of you system so it wont be loud

 

I personally don't recommend the hassle because it's not as easy as you think and there is a high risk of everything breaking if you don't 100% know what you are doing. 

 

It's up to you if you think you need it and you are confident enough then go for it but otherwise I wouldn't recommend it your aio does the same thing essentially

Ummmmm lower temps?

 

 

Ok typical guy talking and has no idea what he's talking about.

 

Aio's are crap. Now a custom loop is going to be better all around but how much left does that 1950x have?  They oc like crap so even if you tack on an extra few hundred watts of cooling power unless your cpu can hit the clocks it's pointless. 

 

 

Water-cooling is easy. Problems start when you watch idiots on YouTube.  You just need to fallow the basic water-cooling rules that have been around since we were using pond pumps 

 

 

Make sure all tube cuts at straight. 

 

Make sure all hoses at on the barbs and all the way on. When using compression fittings this is very important.

 

Check all fittings. Do not over tighten. Nice and snug 

 

Assemble the loop in the case. Then pull it out or if you can't just remove the cpu block and pull it away from those board. First timers should always leak test for 24 hours outside of there case. 

 

 

I haven't leak test anything in years. I just toss it together and go. Modern stuff has really made it easy. No more Teflon taping threads. Heating hoses up to get them over barbs and not struggleng trying to stretch that tube. It's really easy now.

 

 

 

All that said I personally would not waste the money on that 1950x.  Even overclocked a 3900x is going to destroy it. And for the $350+ for a quality loop you can sell that mobo and cpu and  pick up a mobo and a 3900x. That's a much better buy. Those 1950's don't have much left in the tank in terms of overclocking so if I was looking to spend $350. I would sell my mobo for $350 with the 1950x for a quick sale. that gives $700  $499 for a 3900x leaves $200 for a mobo. $199 ASRock steel legand. Now you have a cpu that's faster all around. Clocks higher and overall just better. 

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Posted · Original PosterOP
1 hour ago, bignaz said:

Ummmmm lower temps?

 

 

Ok typical guy talking and has no idea what he's talking about.

 

Aio's are crap. Now a custom loop is going to be better all around but how much left does that 1950x have?  They oc like crap so even if you tack on an extra few hundred watts of cooling power unless your cpu can hit the clocks it's pointless. 

 

 

Water-cooling is easy. Problems start when you watch idiots on YouTube.  You just need to fallow the basic water-cooling rules that have been around since we were using pond pumps 

 

 

Make sure all tube cuts at straight. 

 

Make sure all hoses at on the barbs and all the way on. When using compression fittings this is very important.

 

Check all fittings. Do not over tighten. Nice and snug 

 

Assemble the loop in the case. Then pull it out or if you can't just remove the cpu block and pull it away from those board. First timers should always leak test for 24 hours outside of there case. 

 

 

I haven't leak test anything in years. I just toss it together and go. Modern stuff has really made it easy. No more Teflon taping threads. Heating hoses up to get them over barbs and not struggleng trying to stretch that tube. It's really easy now.

 

 

 

All that said I personally would not waste the money on that 1950x.  Even overclocked a 3900x is going to destroy it. And for the $350+ for a quality loop you can sell that mobo and cpu and  pick up a mobo and a 3900x. That's a much better buy. Those 1950's don't have much left in the tank in terms of overclocking so if I was looking to spend $350. I would sell my mobo for $350 with the 1950x for a quick sale. that gives $700  $499 for a 3900x leaves $200 for a mobo. $199 ASRock steel legand. Now you have a cpu that's faster all around. Clocks higher and overall just better. 

1920x and yea. i do wait for 3rd gen TR tho if that wont do i might move to am4


 

cpu: TR 1920

mobo: asus prime x399-a

gpu: asus strix 1080oc

ram: 32gb G.SKILL Trident Z 3200 c14

psu: Antec HCP1300w Platinum (overkill i know...got it for a good price)

thats all needed right?...i didnt learn to this exam....

 

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12 hours ago, bignaz said:

Ummmmm lower temps?

 

 

Ok typical guy talking and has no idea what he's talking about.

 

Aio's are crap. Now a custom loop is going to be better all around but how much left does that 1950x have?  They oc like crap so even if you tack on an extra few hundred watts of cooling power unless your cpu can hit the clocks it's pointless. 

 

 

Water-cooling is easy. Problems start when you watch idiots on YouTube.  You just need to fallow the basic water-cooling rules that have been around since we were using pond pumps 

 

 

Make sure all tube cuts at straight. 

 

Make sure all hoses at on the barbs and all the way on. When using compression fittings this is very important.

 

Check all fittings. Do not over tighten. Nice and snug 

 

Assemble the loop in the case. Then pull it out or if you can't just remove the cpu block and pull it away from those board. First timers should always leak test for 24 hours outside of there case. 

 

 

I haven't leak test anything in years. I just toss it together and go. Modern stuff has really made it easy. No more Teflon taping threads. Heating hoses up to get them over barbs and not struggleng trying to stretch that tube. It's really easy now.

 

 

 

All that said I personally would not waste the money on that 1950x.  Even overclocked a 3900x is going to destroy it. And for the $350+ for a quality loop you can sell that mobo and cpu and  pick up a mobo and a 3900x. That's a much better buy. Those 1950's don't have much left in the tank in terms of overclocking so if I was looking to spend $350. I would sell my mobo for $350 with the 1950x for a quick sale. that gives $700  $499 for a 3900x leaves $200 for a mobo. $199 ASRock steel legand. Now you have a cpu that's faster all around. Clocks higher and overall just better. 

I had a custom water loop 4 months ago until I switched fully to an aio don't jump into conclusions bud.

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Posted · Original PosterOP
3 hours ago, Pauleft said:

I had a custom water loop 4 months ago until I switched fully to an aio don't jump into conclusions bud.

he does have a point tho...i mean i doubt my thin ass rad can do beter then those 3 times thicker rads i saw on some custom loop rads... XD


 

cpu: TR 1920

mobo: asus prime x399-a

gpu: asus strix 1080oc

ram: 32gb G.SKILL Trident Z 3200 c14

psu: Antec HCP1300w Platinum (overkill i know...got it for a good price)

thats all needed right?...i didnt learn to this exam....

 

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16 minutes ago, orze said:

he does have a point tho...i mean i doubt my thin ass rad can do beter then those 3 times thicker rads i saw on some custom loop rads... XD

I mean I'm not saying it can't but its not like it's gonna be majorly different most of the time it's a small difference like 2-3-4 c

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Posted · Best Answer

For custom water cooling here are my thoughts:

 

Do you want a relatively cool and quiet computer? If so get a TR Noctua cooler and some good case fans.

 

Do you want a computer that is marginally cooler and costs a lot of money?  Then go custom water cooling.

 

This might make you think I don't like custom water cooling, but it's the total opposite.  If you want to take on a rather difficult project that ends with you owning a computer that looks incredible, is completely custom, and allows you to learn some new things then go with custom water cooling.   It will sure as hell be more rewarding than just slapping a new cooler on your PC, and also grants you access to the Kingdom of Turbo-Nerdom.

 

 

Oh also use a secondary PSU when filling the loop, that way if it leaks you won't destroy your hardware.

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45 minutes ago, AlexTheGreatish said:

If you want to take on a rather difficult project that ends with you owning a computer that looks incredible, is completely custom, and allows you to learn some new things then go with custom water cooling.   It will sure as hell be more rewarding than just slapping a new cooler on your PC, and also grants you access to the Kingdom of Turbo-Nerdom.

I love this statement! It is also is not limited to custom watercooling and PC building. One can switch out the underlined words and it will fit with any enthusiast hobby (cars, mech keyboards, woodworking, etc.).

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7 hours ago, AlexTheGreatish said:

Oh also use a secondary PSU when filling the loop, that way if it leaks you won't destroy your hardware.

This should be an important takeaway from Alex's post and as long as it has a 24-pin (with the paperclip short between pins 4 & 5) and a molex connector, it matter little of the brand or to an extent; quality. If you have an EVGA PSU, they provide a plug so you don't need to bridge the 24-pin connector at all, just plug it in! Using a separate PSU means no power running through the motherboard and any spills shouldn't be destructive. If you're doing an extended (i.e. 24 hour) leak test, use the secondary PSU for this purpose as well. I have a Corsair SFX modular PSU (with the EVGA 24-pin plug) just for these instances that I picked up on a sweet discount.

 

Another couple of (not so common) tools I use are the Primochill finishing tool (make sure you buy the correct size for the tubes you intend to use.) for near perfect PETG ends (athough not suitable for acrylic) and the Dr. Drop pressure tester (EKWB has just released something similar) for pre-testing for leaks prior to adding any coolant.

 

And Alex... I'll give you a wave next time I see you in the "Kingdom of Turbo-Nerdom " as I just received my Phanteks PH-D140 distribution plate to tidy up my custom loop 9_9

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Posted · Original PosterOP
16 hours ago, AlexTheGreatish said:

For custom water cooling here are my thoughts:

 

Do you want a relatively cool and quiet computer? If so get a TR Noctua cooler and some good case fans.

 

Do you want a computer that is marginally cooler and costs a lot of money?  Then go custom water cooling.

 

This might make you think I don't like custom water cooling, but it's the total opposite.  If you want to take on a rather difficult project that ends with you owning a computer that looks incredible, is completely custom, and allows you to learn some new things then go with custom water cooling.   It will sure as hell be more rewarding than just slapping a new cooler on your PC, and also grants you access to the Kingdom of Turbo-Nerdom.

 

 

Oh also use a secondary PSU when filling the loop, that way if it leaks you won't destroy your hardware.

Ok lets start with holy fukin shit im a big fan! Im fuking gigaling like a school girl  right now

 

And yea. At the end of the day i work from this pc and dont mind westing money on it. I feel ill wait for a new gpu im intrested in and just go for it 

And hell i built my pc and changing it all the time....i feel like it will be the great next step THANK YOU SO MUCH EVERY 1! For the feed back. I think Alex said what i wanted to hear

 

Now ill start researching rads and all of that.

I got good time to learn it until navi comes out to see if its worth it

Ill just go for a 360mm to replace my aio i think


 

cpu: TR 1920

mobo: asus prime x399-a

gpu: asus strix 1080oc

ram: 32gb G.SKILL Trident Z 3200 c14

psu: Antec HCP1300w Platinum (overkill i know...got it for a good price)

thats all needed right?...i didnt learn to this exam....

 

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