3d printing 3d SLA resin printing custom Hardline water-cooling

[Snaffles]

So I have a photon sla resin 3d printer and I was wondering if it was safe to 3d print the tubing for it as I have some designs I thought would be pretty hard if not impossible to do with petg tubing and a heat gun the only reason I haven't already started is because I'm worried due to SLA being  resin based if it would be likely to leech a chemical or plasticiser into the loop gumming it up or would it be very likely to degrade quickly and leak due to having water run through it I apologise if this is a stupid query I just thought it might be cool if you could.

[airdeano]

welcome to the Linus Tech Tips forums!

 

you've pretty much nailed the reasons prolly why not.

that and tolerances have to be need to be dead-nuts accurate.

ive tried FDM printing fittings and due to the layering, the tolerances are not clear-cut, mico layers of mico leaks.

the technologies are not there yet for closed system environments like water cooling. but possibly soon.

 

[Snaffles]

Dang I was hoping because it wasn't filliment based but UV resin the layering wouldn't be an issue because it was only the tubes I was printing I've bought the fittings so I wasn't going to need to print those but the same issues would probably carry over to anything really the tolerances were so minute but I guess it makes sense here's hoping it eventually does become possible soon it would be pretty sick.

[Hackentosher]

You could theoretically 3D print PETG tubing/other parts using an FDM process, but I'd be worried about the layers splitting over time. You could bake the part in your oven on low temp to help fuse the layers better.

[Skynetbeta]

SLA printing water cooling components is possible .

You need to make sure that your part is fully cured and that your resin is non reactive once cured.

I would suggest a resin rated for food or medical use. 

 

In regards to FDM printing of water cooling components both material and post processing is key.

I have have gotten the best results when printing in nylon carbon fiber. The key is to print with 3 mm thick walls and in an orientation to prevent shearing of the layers. 

After printing infiltrate your parts with a low viscosity epoxy resin and sand to your final dimensions. 

 

Alternatively if neither of the above methods is available to you simply print out of your material of choice then make a silicone mold.

Once you have your mold you can cast out of a clear resin or urethane.

Casting your parts also allows you to add thermal additives making the fabrication of heat-sinks possible.