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freezemod.com question currency

so i have a question about  https://freezemod.com/ and i emailed them and sent a message on there face book but no replay. so ill ask the question here and hope to get an answer. 

 

so my question is what currency is freezmod in? my guess is us but  i need to no any one can help thx.

I have dyslexia plz be kind to me. dont like my post dont read it or respond thx

also i edit post alot because you no why...

Thrasher_565 hub links build logs

Corsair Lian Li Bykski Barrow thermaltake nzxt aquacomputer 5v argb pin out guide + argb info

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Looks like USD, Euro, or GBP are your options...

A girl who loves to love.

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5 minutes ago, Aimi said:

Looks like USD, Euro, or GBP are your options...

how do you no what one its on?. i click the $ 3 E but nothing happens... or click the flags and nothing happens there...

I have dyslexia plz be kind to me. dont like my post dont read it or respond thx

also i edit post alot because you no why...

Thrasher_565 hub links build logs

Corsair Lian Li Bykski Barrow thermaltake nzxt aquacomputer 5v argb pin out guide + argb info

5v device to 12v mb header

Odds and Sods Argb Rgb Links

 

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Everything there looks uncomfortably cheap... doubt you're getting anything quality from there, other than the Bykski stuff they carry, that's decent AFAIK. The in-house stuff looks like garbage. 

Intel HEDT and Server platform enthusiasts: Intel HEDT Xeon/i7 Megathread 

 

Main PC 

CPU: i9 7980XE @4.5GHz/1.22v/-2 AVX offset 

Cooler: EKWB Supremacy Block - custom loop w/360mm +280mm rads 

Motherboard: EVGA X299 Dark 

RAM:4x8GB HyperX Predator DDR4 @3200Mhz CL16 

GPU: Nvidia FE 2060 Super/Corsair HydroX 2070 FE block 

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OS: Windows 11

 

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7 minutes ago, Zando Bob said:

Everything there looks uncomfortably cheap... doubt you're getting anything quality from there, other than the Bykski stuff they carry, that's decent AFAIK. The in-house stuff looks like garbage. 

ya if its in usd its the cheapest stuff i can find some of it. like there 360 copper rads $26.25. i no they have a store on aliexpress.com witch shows canadian currency but the prices on freezemod.com seems better... also aliexpress.com dindnt use paypal (i lost my viza cared haha)

I have dyslexia plz be kind to me. dont like my post dont read it or respond thx

also i edit post alot because you no why...

Thrasher_565 hub links build logs

Corsair Lian Li Bykski Barrow thermaltake nzxt aquacomputer 5v argb pin out guide + argb info

5v device to 12v mb header

Odds and Sods Argb Rgb Links

 

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1 minute ago, thrasher_565 said:

ya if its in usd its the cheapest stuff i can find some of it. like there 360 copper rads $26.25. i no they have a store on aliexpress.com witch shows canadian currency but the prices on freezemod.com seems better... also aliexpress.com dindnt use paypal (i lost my viza cared haha)

Cheap =/= better. Sometimes cheaper stuff is on par with more expensive brands, but stuff this cheap is a yikes and I'd defo steer clear. Especially with watercooling, if they cheap out and make something with the wrong/tainted metals you'll get horrid corrosion and stuff, and cheaper shit has a higher chance of leaking too (which will then kill your hardware, ending up a lot more expensive than just getting quality parts in the first place). 

Intel HEDT and Server platform enthusiasts: Intel HEDT Xeon/i7 Megathread 

 

Main PC 

CPU: i9 7980XE @4.5GHz/1.22v/-2 AVX offset 

Cooler: EKWB Supremacy Block - custom loop w/360mm +280mm rads 

Motherboard: EVGA X299 Dark 

RAM:4x8GB HyperX Predator DDR4 @3200Mhz CL16 

GPU: Nvidia FE 2060 Super/Corsair HydroX 2070 FE block 

Storage:  1TB MP34 + 1TB 970 Evo + 500GB Atom30 + 250GB 960 Evo 

Optical Drives: LG WH14NS40 

PSU: EVGA 1600W T2 

Case & Fans: Corsair 750D Airflow - 3x Noctua iPPC NF-F12 + 4x Noctua iPPC NF-A14 PWM 

OS: Windows 11

 

Display: LG 27UK650-W (4K 60Hz IPS panel)

Mouse: EVGA X17

Keyboard: Corsair K55 RGB

 

Mobile/Work Devices: 2020 M1 MacBook Air (work computer) - iPhone 13 Pro Max - Apple Watch S3

 

Other Misc Devices: iPod Video (Gen 5.5E, 128GB SD card swap, running Rockbox), Nintendo Switch

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1 minute ago, Zando Bob said:

Cheap =/= better. Sometimes cheaper stuff is on par with more expensive brands, but stuff this cheap is a yikes and I'd defo steer clear. Especially with watercooling, if they cheap out and make something with the wrong/tainted metals you'll get horrid corrosion and stuff, and cheaper shit has a higher chance of leaking too (which will then kill your hardware, ending up a lot more expensive than just getting quality parts in the first place). 

i hear what your saying but the ony way to no is to try it... its wont be for my water cooling pc but for pcs i build and sell the cheaper the better thow i see your point.

i got alphcool stuff and its cheap stuff even thow i still payed $100 for a 360 rad. had poor paint job. i alos got an expensive Aquacomputer airplex modularity 360 rad and there things on it i dont like too and i payed like $300 a rad so....

I have dyslexia plz be kind to me. dont like my post dont read it or respond thx

also i edit post alot because you no why...

Thrasher_565 hub links build logs

Corsair Lian Li Bykski Barrow thermaltake nzxt aquacomputer 5v argb pin out guide + argb info

5v device to 12v mb header

Odds and Sods Argb Rgb Links

 

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1 minute ago, thrasher_565 said:

i hear what your saying but the ony way to no is to try it... its wont be for my water cooling pc but for pcs i build and sell the cheaper the better thow i see your point.

i got alphcool stuff and its cheap stuff even thow i still payed $100 for a 360 rad. had poor paint job. i alos got an expensive Aquacomputer airplex modularity 360 rad and there things on it i dont like too and i payed like $300 a rad so....

I paid about $60 for my 360mm rad, it's well built and I've had no issues so far (Black Ice 360GTS Steal U-Flow). I wouldn't go shit tier cheap for rigs you're flipping as well. You'll end up with pissed customers when something breaks, or someone who's actually knowledgable on the subject and makes it their goal to destroy you for selling rigs with really shoddy parts, either way not a good look if you want to build a nice reputation. You can go pretty cheap, but avoid cutting corners where stuff matters (again, the loop leaking can kill the entire rig so that's really a corner you don't wanna cut unless you have enough money it's not an issue). 

 

Doing research on quality stuff is better than just looking at price. If you find something cheap or expensive, look at the actual products and at reviews and make a decision based off that. The in-house freezemod stuff is pretty crap, you can tell that just by looking at the stock photos for it, I wouldn't trust it in any rig anyone cares about. On the flip side it'd be silly to go out and buy all EK parts because they're one of the most well known companies (I did end up with a lot of EK parts though, lol), you can get similar/the same quality for less, or better quality for about the same (My Heatkiller IV blocks have been slightly cheaper than the EK stuff but better built IMO, and EK is already solid quality). Basically shop around, but don't go shit tier or massively high end if you want to get good value out of your purchase. I ended up with GTS Stealth rads because they were cheaper, the thickness I needed, and quality in my experience. EK fittings and tubing because those were cheap (stubby barbs for about a buck each and then EK-ZMT tubing because it looks very clean, is cheap, and much more leak-proof), EK GPU block because there's no Heatkiller blocks for the Radeon VII, Heatkiller IV CPU block because it was slightly cheaper than the EK options while performing better, being built better, and looking just as nice/nicer in my opinion. EK pump/res combo because they were the only ones who had one for a good price that fit the size I wanted. Then some assorted EK fittings because I was in a hurry and knew they had the ones I wanted. I could have saved a good amount of money by shopping around more, but time/convenience was more important to me. If you've got time and going as cheap as possible is important to you, then you shop around and look for alternatives of similar quality for less. I've built another loop with an assortment of random fittings, blocks, and rads that I got cheap used, all depends on the use case and what you value more, your money or time/convenience. 

Intel HEDT and Server platform enthusiasts: Intel HEDT Xeon/i7 Megathread 

 

Main PC 

CPU: i9 7980XE @4.5GHz/1.22v/-2 AVX offset 

Cooler: EKWB Supremacy Block - custom loop w/360mm +280mm rads 

Motherboard: EVGA X299 Dark 

RAM:4x8GB HyperX Predator DDR4 @3200Mhz CL16 

GPU: Nvidia FE 2060 Super/Corsair HydroX 2070 FE block 

Storage:  1TB MP34 + 1TB 970 Evo + 500GB Atom30 + 250GB 960 Evo 

Optical Drives: LG WH14NS40 

PSU: EVGA 1600W T2 

Case & Fans: Corsair 750D Airflow - 3x Noctua iPPC NF-F12 + 4x Noctua iPPC NF-A14 PWM 

OS: Windows 11

 

Display: LG 27UK650-W (4K 60Hz IPS panel)

Mouse: EVGA X17

Keyboard: Corsair K55 RGB

 

Mobile/Work Devices: 2020 M1 MacBook Air (work computer) - iPhone 13 Pro Max - Apple Watch S3

 

Other Misc Devices: iPod Video (Gen 5.5E, 128GB SD card swap, running Rockbox), Nintendo Switch

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7 minutes ago, Zando Bob said:

I paid about $60 for my 360mm rad, it's well built and I've had no issues so far (Black Ice 360GTS Steal U-Flow). I wouldn't go shit tier cheap for rigs you're flipping as well. You'll end up with pissed customers when something breaks, or someone who's actually knowledgable on the subject and makes it their goal to destroy you for selling rigs with really shoddy parts, either way not a good look if you want to build a nice reputation. You can go pretty cheap, but avoid cutting corners where stuff matters (again, the loop leaking can kill the entire rig so that's really a corner you don't wanna cut unless you have enough money it's not an issue). 

 

Doing research on quality stuff is better than just looking at price. If you find something cheap or expensive, look at the actual products and at reviews and make a decision based off that. The in-house freezemod stuff is pretty crap, you can tell that just by looking at the stock photos for it, I wouldn't trust it in any rig anyone cares about. On the flip side it'd be silly to go out and buy all EK parts because they're one of the most well known companies (I did end up with a lot of EK parts though, lol), you can get similar/the same quality for less, or better quality for about the same (My Heatkiller IV blocks have been slightly cheaper than the EK stuff but better built IMO, and EK is already solid quality). Basically shop around, but don't go shit tier or massively high end if you want to get good value out of your purchase. I ended up with GTS Stealth rads because they were cheaper, the thickness I needed, and quality in my experience. EK fittings and tubing because those were cheap (stubby barbs for about a buck each and then EK-ZMT tubing because it looks very clean, is cheap, and much more leak-proof), EK GPU block because there's no Heatkiller blocks for the Radeon VII, Heatkiller IV CPU block because it was slightly cheaper than the EK options while performing better, being built better, and looking just as nice/nicer in my opinion. EK pump/res combo because they were the only ones who had one for a good price that fit the size I wanted. Then some assorted EK fittings because I was in a hurry and knew they had the ones I wanted. I could have saved a good amount of money by shopping around more, but time/convenience was more important to me. If you've got time and going as cheap as possible is important to you, then you shop around and look for alternatives of similar quality for less. I've built another loop with an assortment of random fittings, blocks, and rads that I got cheap used, all depends on the use case and what you value more, your money or time/convenience. 

hmm maybe i should just forget about it then. i was just think i could put a cheap loop and that might look more attractive to buy but water cooling is a pain in the ass and air dose just as good.i have gotten the cheap non name brad 90 degree fittins and they look the same as to alphacool 90. besides i think dazmodz sell that 90 called the "darkside" also i got the bykski rgb cpu block and its a knock off of ek. looks good the led wire a bit loose but other than that and i got ot for like $45 time will tell if there metal problems with it thow.  besides ied be buy  budget build like $100 case, $100 ram, $100mb, $100 cpu $80 psu and look for a better  then stock heat sink.

I have dyslexia plz be kind to me. dont like my post dont read it or respond thx

also i edit post alot because you no why...

Thrasher_565 hub links build logs

Corsair Lian Li Bykski Barrow thermaltake nzxt aquacomputer 5v argb pin out guide + argb info

5v device to 12v mb header

Odds and Sods Argb Rgb Links

 

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3 minutes ago, thrasher_565 said:

hmm maybe i should just forget about it then. i was just think i could put a cheap loop and that might look more attractive to buy but water cooling is a pain in the ass and air dose just as good.i have gotten the cheap non name brad 90 degree fittins and they look the same as to alphacool 90. besides i think dazmodz sell that 90 called the "darkside" also i got the bykski rgb cpu block and its a knock off of ek. looks good the led wire a bit loose but other than that and i got ot for like $45 time will tell if there metal problems with it thow.  besides ied be buy  budget build like $100 case, $100 ram, $100mb, $100 cpu $80 psu and look for a better  then stock heat sink.

If you're going for a budget build to flip, just use a decent budget AIO. Non-techies all think that's watercooling anyways, and it's cheaper (and more reliable for people with no know how of loop maintenance) and easier to install. 

Intel HEDT and Server platform enthusiasts: Intel HEDT Xeon/i7 Megathread 

 

Main PC 

CPU: i9 7980XE @4.5GHz/1.22v/-2 AVX offset 

Cooler: EKWB Supremacy Block - custom loop w/360mm +280mm rads 

Motherboard: EVGA X299 Dark 

RAM:4x8GB HyperX Predator DDR4 @3200Mhz CL16 

GPU: Nvidia FE 2060 Super/Corsair HydroX 2070 FE block 

Storage:  1TB MP34 + 1TB 970 Evo + 500GB Atom30 + 250GB 960 Evo 

Optical Drives: LG WH14NS40 

PSU: EVGA 1600W T2 

Case & Fans: Corsair 750D Airflow - 3x Noctua iPPC NF-F12 + 4x Noctua iPPC NF-A14 PWM 

OS: Windows 11

 

Display: LG 27UK650-W (4K 60Hz IPS panel)

Mouse: EVGA X17

Keyboard: Corsair K55 RGB

 

Mobile/Work Devices: 2020 M1 MacBook Air (work computer) - iPhone 13 Pro Max - Apple Watch S3

 

Other Misc Devices: iPod Video (Gen 5.5E, 128GB SD card swap, running Rockbox), Nintendo Switch

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1 minute ago, Zando Bob said:

If you're going for a budget build to flip, just use a decent budget AIO. Non-techies all think that's watercooling anyways, and it's cheaper (and more reliable for people with no know how of loop maintenance) and easier to install. 

ya i got a Cooler Master ML120R in my first build only because i got it and i wanted the big rgb controller that connects by usb so you can use the software to control it....well so i thought the controller dose not work so wast of money... stay away for cooler master stuff. anyway haha i guess im just disgusted with rgb and there half assing it. my build i got like 38 corsair hd fans and i got them refurbished and now im find out that some of the lighting hubs don't work....

I have dyslexia plz be kind to me. dont like my post dont read it or respond thx

also i edit post alot because you no why...

Thrasher_565 hub links build logs

Corsair Lian Li Bykski Barrow thermaltake nzxt aquacomputer 5v argb pin out guide + argb info

5v device to 12v mb header

Odds and Sods Argb Rgb Links

 

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