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Willem De Zwijger

Broken arrow keys

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Posted · Original PosterOP

I ordered a keyboard to find out that the arrow keys are broken. It is a full sized mechanical keyboard. I also found out that if I mash the two broken keys, down and left arrow keys, and then press right arrow key that it is registered as a zero. This mainly happens with the left arrow key. 

I have restarted my PC, and unplugged the power for 10 seconds, without luck. Also changing the USB prort didn't do anything. I havn't tried a USB 3.0 port, but I doubt that it will do anything, since my cable is USB 3.0. 

 

I posted this on the PCMR subreddit too, but only one person replied in 1.5 hours, without useful info.

 

If this happens to be off-topic or the wrong forum, I'm sorry, this is my first post on here and I'm not a native English speaker :).

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9 minutes ago, Willem De Zwijger said:

I ordered a keyboard to find out that the arrow keys are broken. It is a full sized mechanical keyboard. I also found out that if I mash the two broken keys, down and left arrow keys, and then press right arrow key that it is registered as a zero. This mainly happens with the left arrow key. 

I have restarted my PC, and unplugged the power for 10 seconds, without luck. Also changing the USB prort didn't do anything. I havn't tried a USB 3.0 port, but I doubt that it will do anything, since my cable is USB 3.0. 

 

I posted this on the PCMR subreddit too, but only one person replied in 1.5 hours, without useful info.

 

If this happens to be off-topic or the wrong forum, I'm sorry, this is my first post on here and I'm not a native English speaker :).

What kind of keyboard is it? Model and etc. Returning it is not possible? You should just RMA if possible. 

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Sound like there is something wrong with the keyboard matrix here.

The only way to fix this would be to open the keyboard up and find out where exactly it is broken. That could be as simple as just seeing a broken trace (which I don't expect, if it hasn't been opened and broken physically) or maybe you can see a broken diode or something. Worst case scenario you'll have to measure all the traces with a multimeter.

 

Try to see online if you can find any information on the matrix your keyboard uses.


Don't forgot the quote / @ me so I get a notification for your response. Quoting is the arrow button in the bottom left of my post.

 

"There's no such thing as perfect. You're beautiful as you are Courage. With all your imperfections you can do anything." - Bathtub Barracuda

"Wish i could find a way to stop the pain.         -         Besides the one that i keep thinking of."

My gear:                    

Spoiler

PC:

The brains: AMD Ryzen 7 1700 ||

The torso: MSI X370 Gaming Pro Carbon ||

Short term memory: 2x8GB G.Skill TridentZ RGB 3200Mhz ||

Pixel pusher: EVGA RTX 2070 Super XC Gaming || 

Where I store memes: Samsung 960 EVO 250GB + Seagate Barracuda 2TB + Samsung 860 EVO 1TB || 

Un-heater: Be Quiet! Dark Rock 3 ||

Carboard box: Thermaltake Core G21 TG ||

Power squid: Corsair RM750x ||

 

Peripherals:

Sound helmet: Beyerdynamic DT-990 250 Ohm ||

Clickity-clack (sadly not clicky :( ): Coolermaster Masterkeys Pro S RGB ||

Return the (drawing) slab! : Wacom Intuos Pen Small (2015) ||

Rodent: Asus ROG Gladius ||

Cloth for rodent: CM Storm Swift-RX XXL ||

 

Old PC:

CPU: AMD Athlon X2 255 || Motherboard: ASUS M4A89GTD PRO || RAM: 4x2GB DDR3 || GPU: Nvidia Quadro 512MB || Case: Antec Sonata III || PSU: Antec Earthwatts 500W Bronze

Setup: Current setup

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1 minute ago, Minibois said:

Sound like there is something wrong with the keyboard matrix here.

The only way to fix this would be to open the keyboard up and find out where exactly it is broken. That could be as simple as just seeing a broken trace (which I don't expect, if it hasn't been opened and broken physically) or maybe you can see a broken diode or something. Worst case scenario you'll have to measure all the traces with a multimeter.

 

Try to see online if you can find any information on the matrix your keyboard uses.

He should try to RMA first, not just go disassembling it don't you think?

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1 minute ago, noxdeouroboros said:

He should try to RMA first, not just go disassembling it don't you think?

Well yeah duh, but I'm not here to suggest the logical things, only the fun things!!!

/s

 

I would assume people have the common sense to pursue this route before anything else, plus someone who doesn't know what could be wrong wouldn't be the first person to puncture some labels on the back of the keyboard to open it up (and possibly ruin all those 'warranty void if removed' stickers!).


Don't forgot the quote / @ me so I get a notification for your response. Quoting is the arrow button in the bottom left of my post.

 

"There's no such thing as perfect. You're beautiful as you are Courage. With all your imperfections you can do anything." - Bathtub Barracuda

"Wish i could find a way to stop the pain.         -         Besides the one that i keep thinking of."

My gear:                    

Spoiler

PC:

The brains: AMD Ryzen 7 1700 ||

The torso: MSI X370 Gaming Pro Carbon ||

Short term memory: 2x8GB G.Skill TridentZ RGB 3200Mhz ||

Pixel pusher: EVGA RTX 2070 Super XC Gaming || 

Where I store memes: Samsung 960 EVO 250GB + Seagate Barracuda 2TB + Samsung 860 EVO 1TB || 

Un-heater: Be Quiet! Dark Rock 3 ||

Carboard box: Thermaltake Core G21 TG ||

Power squid: Corsair RM750x ||

 

Peripherals:

Sound helmet: Beyerdynamic DT-990 250 Ohm ||

Clickity-clack (sadly not clicky :( ): Coolermaster Masterkeys Pro S RGB ||

Return the (drawing) slab! : Wacom Intuos Pen Small (2015) ||

Rodent: Asus ROG Gladius ||

Cloth for rodent: CM Storm Swift-RX XXL ||

 

Old PC:

CPU: AMD Athlon X2 255 || Motherboard: ASUS M4A89GTD PRO || RAM: 4x2GB DDR3 || GPU: Nvidia Quadro 512MB || Case: Antec Sonata III || PSU: Antec Earthwatts 500W Bronze

Setup: Current setup

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