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dabritgamer

Need help with my broken keyboard

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Posted · Original PosterOP

Hi all!

not sure if this belongs here but anyway

i have broken my keyboard :(

while I was cleaning my setup I pulled the cable out of the keyboard, I am now completely confused on how to wire it back

i am fairly decent with a soldering iron but have no idea the correct way to solder it so I’ve come here

is there a universal wiring scheme I can go off or maybe some of y’all can help

the keyboard is a magic eagle havit 

attached are some pictures,

Thank!

13277CC7-0578-493D-B436-F60AEAAFFB76.jpeg

C8EA87D9-693A-489C-9AF8-863C9067A73E.jpeg

B34DD1F1-A9F4-4375-B19A-7F53D3AA1DF2.jpeg

54C00FAD-6DDE-4770-AA54-EE4FED5833F8.jpeg

ABE91629-1544-4869-B6AC-0DD0ADC05BCD.jpeg

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I'd use this as a reference...  

 

G likely is Ground, V I'd guess is Voltage (+), and D + and - are data + and -.

 

I can't explain the fifth pad (s), so I'd leave it empty for the time being.

usb-wiring-connection.jpg.ea41e18ddd2c44d2114180ebe4e4443c.jpg

Note: I'm just some guy on the internet, this could kill your keyboard. Just saying.


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Posted · Original PosterOP
Just now, Lord Mirdalan said:

I'd use this as a reference...  

 

G likely is Ground, V I'd guess is Voltage (+), and D + and - are data + and -.

 

I can't explain the fifth pad (s), so I'd leave it empty for the time being.

usb-wiring-connection.jpg.ea41e18ddd2c44d2114180ebe4e4443c.jpg

Thanks, will try now!

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1 minute ago, dabritgamer said:

I do not have a black cable?!?!?

 

Right you are... Do you have a continuity meter or voltmeter? If not, I'd treat yellow as black, and cross my fingers.

 

On a side note, you can also wire up an LED or something using the cable to test continuity.


Screwdriver specs: Long, pointy. Turns things. Some kind of metal.

 

Personal rig:

Xeon  E5-1630v4 | Quadro P4000 | Asus X99-E WS | 4x8GB G-Skill DDR4-2400 | Samsung 960 EVO 250GB | 8TB spinning rust

 

Work machine:

Core i9-9900X | 2x RTX 2080ti | Asus X299-WS Sage | 8x8GB G-Skill DDR4-3200 | Samsung 970 Pro 512GB | 3x1TB 860 EVO

 

Autodesk 3ds Max, AutoCAD, Inventor, Revit, Recap, and Fusion

Adobe Photoshop, Premiere, AfterEffects, Illustrator, Brackets, Dreamweaver

Matlab, MS Visual Studio, Davinci Resolve

 

And MS Paint

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Good thing it's a cheap keyboard, if you can't get that soldered back on might be less stressful to get a new one, from my experience when you buy a cheap keyboard you get a cheap keyboard. If I paid $30 for a keyboard used it for awhile and it broke, instead of spending a couple hours trying to solder it back together I'd just get another cheap keyboard. You can go to pretty much any store that sells electronics and computers, and more times than not you can find a $15-$20 keyboard if money is tight.


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If you ask for a Mid Tower case recommend, I will 90% of the time recommend the Fractal Design Meshify C or S2.

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Posted · Original PosterOP
10 hours ago, SpookyCitrus said:

Good thing it's a cheap keyboard, if you can't get that soldered back on might be less stressful to get a new one, from my experience when you buy a cheap keyboard you get a cheap keyboard. If I paid $30 for a keyboard used it for awhile and it broke, instead of spending a couple hours trying to solder it back together I'd just get another cheap keyboard. You can go to pretty much any store that sells electronics and computers, and more times than not you can find a $15-$20 keyboard if money is tight.

Hey thanks for the reply, I really like the feel of the keyboard and kinda wanna keep it, turns out the actual circuit board inside is pretty screwed, is there a way I can get a replacement?

or can I buy a second wired keyboard and replay the circuit?

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9 hours ago, dabritgamer said:

Hey thanks for the reply, I really like the feel of the keyboard and kinda wanna keep it, turns out the actual circuit board inside is pretty screwed, is there a way I can get a replacement?

or can I buy a second wired keyboard and replay the circuit?

Probably not, like I said most keyboards like that are going to be you buy one, it breaks, you buy another, most expensive keyboards don't even have a place where you can just buy parts for them besides looking around ebay and places for a broken one that you can take the good parts out of. But in this case why buy parts for it or do any of that when you can literally buy the exact same keyboard brand new for $28?

https://www.amazon.com/HAVIT-Rainbow-Backlit-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B073JL2NJR/ref=asc_df_B016Y2BVKA/?tag=&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312150453252&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6808165916342583429&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029954&hvtargid=pla-493058670424&ref=&adgrpid=62196158615&th=1


Main Desktop: Cpu - I7-8700k @5ghz | Mobo - Asus ROG STRIX Z390-E | Gpu - Asus ROG STRIX 2080ti OC Ram - G.Skill Trident Z RGB 16GB 3200mhz | Aio - H100i Pro RGB | Psu - Evga 850 GQ | Case - Fractal Design Meshify C White | Storage - Samsung 970 Pro M.2 NVME SSD 1x 1TB 1x 512GB / 1x Seagate Ironwolf Pro 4TB HDD |

 

TV Streaming PC: Intel Nuc CPU - i7 8th Gen | RAM - 16GB DDR4 2666mhz | Storage - 256GB WD Black M.2 NVME SSD |

 

Phone: Samsung Galaxy S10+ - Ceramic White 512GB |

 

If you ask for a Mid Tower case recommend, I will 90% of the time recommend the Fractal Design Meshify C or S2.

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