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outpost31

Reward: New build won't POST

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Posted · Original PosterOP


This new HTPC build powers off 95% of the time prior to POST (within 3 seconds), 5% it starts to load the BIOS screen but stops midway (always at 19 seconds). The fans spin during this time.
I've been troubleshooting on and off for a month and 3 or 4 times was able to get the system running long enough to install Windows (thought the issue was fixed!). But then once I powered the system off the no-POST issue has returned.

 

Here's what I've done to try to resolve this:

  1. Checked all connections, including reseating memory
  2. Pulled, and alternated one of the two sticks of memory
  3. Pulled working memory from another machine.
  4. Verified memory was placed in correct slots for Dual Channel config (tried memory in all possible slots)
  5. Replaced the PSU with new one (with the one listed in the build), prior was a known-good.
  6. Pulled mobo from case and attempt to boot while on a static bag and cardboard box to check case short (no change)
  7. Both ATX12V and ATX are connected
  8. Replaced the motherboard (with same exact model) with new one.
  9. Verified mobo is at latest bios revision (f11)
  10. Added a PC speaker (I will only get a single beep on successful POST, all other times it does not beep, and will still shutdown)
  11. Removed all devices except one stick of memory, and CPU (no change in behavior)
  12. Verified memory used, CPU, and mobo firmware are compatible on Gigabyte's site.
  13. On the rare instance when the system does boot and stay running, I loaded cam to monitor heat. All temps during that time were what I'd expect from a liquid cooled system 32-37C
  14. Swapped which mobo fans were powering which fans (this got it to boot, once)
  15. Cleared CMOS via jumper (this got it to boot once, but not consistently)
  16. Replaced CMOS battery with new one.
  17. Monitored temperatures with infrared heat gun (typical result)
  18. Added a spinning drive to so where was a minimum load on the system and removed msata drive 
  19. Tried a different PS switch in case the case one was defective (no change in behavior)
  20. Tried removing all front panel connectors and jumping PS header with a screwdriver.
  21. Removed SSD and HDD in attempt to just boot to BIOS (no change)
  22. Removed all memory and the system will start POST and beep continuously and then turn off.
  23. Replaced CPU with a NEW i7-3770 CPU 

Parts list:

 

CPU    Intel - Core i7-3770 3.4 GHz Quad-Core Processor    
CPU Cooler    NZXT - Kraken M22 Liquid CPU Cooler    
Motherboard    Gigabyte - GA-H77-DS3H ATX LGA1155 Motherboard    -
Memory    G.Skill - Ares Series 16 GB (4 x 4 GB) DDR3-1333 Memory   
Storage    Kingston - 120 GB mSATA Solid State Drive   
Power Supply    Corsair - SF 600 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular SFX Power Supply

SilverStone Grandia GD09B ATX Mini-Tower Computer Case

Enermax UCTB8 T.B. Silence Twister Bearing 80mm Case Fan

(2) Enermax UCTB8 T.B. Silence Twister Bearing 120mm Case Fan

Note: using IGPU

 

I'm way over budget (especially for parts of this age), but I'm determined. I've pretty much replaced everything on this build at this point and am still having the same issue.  Can anyone save my mind here?  Solve my problem and I'll reward you with a game off steam or something equivalent! 

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Maybe try using an air cooler instead? I'd guess that it could be a dying pump and it's providing with inconsistent cooling capabilities. Might be that when the cooler is cooling properly-ish, it posts and does fine. But when the cooler's pump dies then the CPU overheats and doesn't post.

 

I've seen certain instances where CAM didn't record temps properly and I'm pretty sure an infrared heat gun can be inaccurate too

 

You should be able to use the stock cooler from the new 3770


i like water.

GPU Cooling Tier List | CPU Cooling Tier List | Motherboard Tier List | PSU Tier List       <<<<<<PLEASE CHECK THESE BEFORE BUYING

SYSTEM SPECS

CPU: i5-8400

Motherboard: MSI B360 GAMING ARCTIC

GPU: OEM Dell GTX 1070, Cooler Master Vertical GPU Mount

Case: Lian Li PC-O11 Dynamic White

Case Fans: 9x Corsair LL120 RGB + Commander Pro(I know, overkill for my specs but I'm upgrading soon)

Thermal Paste: Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut

CPU Cooler: Cryorig H7

RAM: 2 X 8GB G.Skill TridentZ RGB 3200MHz 

PSU: Corsair RM650x

Cables: Cablemod C-Series ModFlex White for RMi and RMx

 

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3 minutes ago, _d0nut said:

But when the cooler's pump dies then the CPU overheats and doesn't post.

even without a cooler, the pc shall be able to boot into windows, then throttle down. i.e. even pump not working , system shall hold up longer.

 

I bet some capacitors on mobo is broken, consider its age and its gigabyte...

closely inspect any swollen things

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I mean, it might possibly be your wall power? Pretty unlikely but you could try a UPS. It's also possible that board isn't good enough to run the 3770 consistently but that's extremely unlikely. Maybe try disconnecting all your fans? Not likely to help but you've done basically everything else.

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Just now, dgsddfgdfhgs said:

even without a cooler, the pc shall be able to boot into windows, then throttle down. i.e. even pump not working , system shall hold up longer.

True

 

1 minute ago, dgsddfgdfhgs said:

 

I bet some capacitors on mobo is broken, consider its age and its gigabyte...

closely inspect any swollen things

What are the chances of OP buying a new H77 and having it have broken caps though? I had to get like 3 brand new Gigabyte H61's to help repair some of my friends' builds and they were all 100% working.


i like water.

GPU Cooling Tier List | CPU Cooling Tier List | Motherboard Tier List | PSU Tier List       <<<<<<PLEASE CHECK THESE BEFORE BUYING

SYSTEM SPECS

CPU: i5-8400

Motherboard: MSI B360 GAMING ARCTIC

GPU: OEM Dell GTX 1070, Cooler Master Vertical GPU Mount

Case: Lian Li PC-O11 Dynamic White

Case Fans: 9x Corsair LL120 RGB + Commander Pro(I know, overkill for my specs but I'm upgrading soon)

Thermal Paste: Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut

CPU Cooler: Cryorig H7

RAM: 2 X 8GB G.Skill TridentZ RGB 3200MHz 

PSU: Corsair RM650x

Cables: Cablemod C-Series ModFlex White for RMi and RMx

 

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Just now, _d0nut said:

True

 

What are the chances of OP buying a new H77 and having it have broken caps though? I had to get like 3 brand new Gigabyte H61's to help repair some of my friends' builds and they were all 100% working.

Well it's an old board that's probably been sitting in some warehouse for 6-7 years.

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Posted · Original PosterOP
12 minutes ago, Daniel Z. said:

I mean, it might possibly be your wall power? Pretty unlikely but you could try a UPS. It's also possible that board isn't good enough to run the 3770 consistently but that's extremely unlikely. Maybe try disconnecting all your fans? Not likely to help but you've done basically everything else.

Yes, I've tried both a UPS and wall power.  Also, another power cord.

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Posted · Original PosterOP
22 minutes ago, _d0nut said:

Maybe try using an air cooler instead? I'd guess that it could be a dying pump and it's providing with inconsistent cooling capabilities. Might be that when the cooler is cooling properly-ish, it posts and does fine. But when the cooler's pump dies then the CPU overheats and doesn't post.

 

I've seen certain instances where CAM didn't record temps properly and I'm pretty sure an infrared heat gun can be inaccurate too

 

You should be able to use the stock cooler from the new 3770

The Kraken is new out-of-the-box.  And I don't POST long enough for temps to rise from what I can tell.  

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Posted · Original PosterOP
13 minutes ago, Daniel Z. said:

Well it's an old board that's probably been sitting in some warehouse for 6-7 years.

I checked both boards for any swollen caps.  One board was new in a sealed box, the other more recent one was a "working pull".

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Welcome to the LTT forums! Wow! you are really determined to get this to boot! A few things I recommend trying: a) reformat the HDD and then try rebooting the computer I have had MOBOs that are evil an that will not start properly (for some strange reason) without an HDD (or SSD) attached, and I have also had issues with those MOBOs that if the drive was not wiped properly, they would just crash immediately, b) Try switching out your SATA cables, I have had a computer that was unstable because of a bad SATA cable, and c) try changing out your video cable, I have had issues before where a bad video cable made a computer unstable. (also for those few times that you can get into your BIOS make sure that your system has stable RAM timings, voltages, and I would also check to see if your installation media is stable, though all these should not effect your system posting)


In search of the future, new tech, and exploring the universe! All under the cover of anonymity!

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Posted · Original PosterOP
24 minutes ago, Wh0_Am_1 said:

Welcome to the LTT forums! Wow! you are really determined to get this to boot! A few things I recommend trying: a) reformat the HDD and then try rebooting the computer I have had MOBOs that are evil an that will not start properly (for some strange reason) without an HDD (or SSD) attached, and I have also had issues with those MOBOs that if the drive was not wiped properly, they would just crash immediately, b) Try switching out your SATA cables, I have had a computer that was unstable because of a bad SATA cable, and c) try changing out your video cable, I have had issues before where a bad video cable made a computer unstable. (also for those few times that you can get into your BIOS make sure that your system has stable RAM timings, voltages, and I would also check to see if your installation media is stable, though all these should not effect your system posting)

These are great suggestions!  Unfortunately, I'm using an onboard msata drive, so there aren't cables.  I did try connecting a sata drive and it didn't seem to make any difference.

 

I can't get into the BIOS to make any changes.  At most, it'll start to load the bios splash screen.

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Posted · Original PosterOP
13 minutes ago, dgsddfgdfhgs said:

Do you think somehow windows update crashes it?

get a bootable USB and try ubuntu on it, no need installation

I don't even get to the point where I can choose a boot device, unfortunately. 

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Posted · Original PosterOP
16 minutes ago, Daniel Z. said:

Maybe the default Intel iGPU drivers are not good? You could get a really cheap GPU and try that.

 I do have a 1660 that I bought for this that I haven't used yet, but I'm thinking that won't cause the system to reboot immediately.  I'll try it, though!

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Just now, outpost31 said:

 I do have a 1660 that I bought for this that I haven't used yet, but I'm thinking that won't cause the system to reboot immediately.  I'll try it, though!

Good idea

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Posted · Original PosterOP
Just now, dgsddfgdfhgs said:

actually based on the parts you have and replaced, you have 2 completed bootable setup !

Almost!  I'd just need to buy more memory and another case.

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