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Jason Greene

Can you replace "Liquid Water"(in water cooling) with "Liquid Metal"?

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Just now, _d0nut said:

Looking it up it says 

Ag(Silver) 428 W/m-K

Cu(Copper) 401 W/m-K

Au(Gold) 318 W/m-K

 

would be cool to see a manufacturer selling a 400$ or more silver cooler. either liquid or air. 

 

because why not. 

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35 minutes ago, _d0nut said:

Looking it up it says 

Ag(Silver) 428 W/m-K

Cu(Copper) 401 W/m-K

Au(Gold) 318 W/m-K

This is for solids. Not fluids.

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1 hour ago, GoldenLag said:

would be cool to see a manufacturer selling a 400$ or more silver cooler. either liquid or air. 

 

because why not. 

Difference between copper and aluminium when making heatsink fins is minimal, some company(noctua?) tested it i think. they said it provided virtually no thermal gains and was super heavy, and super expensive to manufacture. Off the top of my head aluminium is 200ish W/m-K so I'd guess Silver vs Aluminium wouldn't make much of a difference. 


i like water.

GPU Cooling Tier List | CPU Cooling Tier List | Motherboard Tier List | PSU Tier List       <<<<<<PLEASE CHECK THESE BEFORE BUYING

SYSTEM SPECS

CPU: i5-8400

Motherboard: MSI B360 GAMING ARCTIC

GPU: OEM Dell GTX 1070, Cooler Master Vertical GPU Mount

Case: Lian Li PC-O11 Dynamic White

Case Fans: 9x Corsair LL120 RGB + Commander Pro(I know, overkill for my specs but I'm upgrading soon)

Thermal Paste: Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut

CPU Cooler: Cryorig H7

RAM: 2 X 8GB G.Skill TridentZ RGB 3200MHz 

PSU: Corsair RM650x

Cables: Cablemod C-Series ModFlex White for RMi and RMx

 

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1 minute ago, _d0nut said:

Difference between copper and aluminium when making heatsink fins is minimal, some company(noctua?) tested it i think. they said it provided virtually no thermal gains and was super heavy, and super expensive to manufacture. Off the top of my head aluminium is 200ish W/m-K so I'd guess Silver vs Aluminium wouldn't make much of a difference. 

i was aware its practically pointless. but its purely a "why not" reasoning

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Just now, GoldenLag said:

i was aware its practically pointless. but its purely a "why not" reasoning

I think the closest to a retail product with a non-aluminium fin heatsink is

http://www.zalman.com/contents/products/view.html?no=441

shitty downdraft cooler though.


i like water.

GPU Cooling Tier List | CPU Cooling Tier List | Motherboard Tier List | PSU Tier List       <<<<<<PLEASE CHECK THESE BEFORE BUYING

SYSTEM SPECS

CPU: i5-8400

Motherboard: MSI B360 GAMING ARCTIC

GPU: OEM Dell GTX 1070, Cooler Master Vertical GPU Mount

Case: Lian Li PC-O11 Dynamic White

Case Fans: 9x Corsair LL120 RGB + Commander Pro(I know, overkill for my specs but I'm upgrading soon)

Thermal Paste: Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut

CPU Cooler: Cryorig H7

RAM: 2 X 8GB G.Skill TridentZ RGB 3200MHz 

PSU: Corsair RM650x

Cables: Cablemod C-Series ModFlex White for RMi and RMx

 

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Posted · Original PosterOP

Okay but (going back to my second question), the question about "Liquid Metal" in a laptop. If you take a small Q-tip/paint brush and applied "Liquid Metal" all along the heatpipes and maybe re-sealed the heatpipes in some type of protective (I don't know for example) adhesive or electric tape or silicon (or whatever they use), wouldn't that (in theory) make for better thermals?

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10 hours ago, GoldenLag said:

Mercury would work fine, but its also mercury. You know the thing that isnt good for you. 

Mercury would also be a pain in the rear because it forms amalgams with all sorts of metals, including these used in watercooling components:

  • Aluminum. Actually looks quite pretty

aluminum-and-mercury.gif.20d01d29733959b88bf03ba6dfd9a92c.gif

  • Copper. That was used in dental fillings because it solidifies
  • Nickel. Coating your copper waterblocks gets you nothing with mercury, it reacts with that too
  • Zinc. Zinc is in brass, so forget most of your fittings

And a whole bunch of others. The elemts in orange form amalgams with mercury. Most iron alloys would be okay though.

943306649_Screenshot(62).png.9b8d4893c2df8bd5d9309ffada01168f.png

1 hour ago, Jason Greene said:

If you take a small Q-tip/paint brush and applied "Liquid Metal" all along the heatpipes and maybe re-sealed the heatpipes [...], wouldn't that (in theory) make for better thermals?

It wouldn't make a real difference. Copper is about 5 times as conductive as liquid metal TIMs with 380W/mK vs 73W/mK for Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut, so even though you'd have more metal transferring heat from one end to the other, it's five times worse than what you already have. You also can't apply liquid metal very thick without spending a small fortune, and a few fractions of a mm around a heatpipe just aren't worth it.


PC: Screw day theme users, I guess ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

CPU: i7 6850k @ 4.3GHz MoBo: MSI X99A SLI Plus RAM: 4×8GB HyperX Fury @ 2800MHz 14-16-16-35 GPU: GTX 1080ti FE @ 2100MHz Cooling: Dual 60x360mm rad, 30x360mm rad, Nickel Plexi EKWB blocks, Corsair ML120, Alphacool DDC+Eisbecher 150, Aquaero 5LT Case: Lian Li PC O-11 Dynamic PSU: Seasonic M12II Evo 850W + Custom DIY Cables Storage: 250GB 970Evo + 525GB Crucial MX300 + 2x 120GB Kingston A400 SSDs + 4x 2TB Seagate Ironwolf in Raid 5 Coming Soon: Currently waiting for more news on Threadripper 3 and its possible upgrade paths vs Cascade Lake X, I could really use some more cores.

Laptop: Acer Travelmate B117 (absolutely low power, but 12h battery life :D)

Phone: Oneplus 2 64GB

Peripherals:

Monitor: LG 34UC79G Keyboard: Corsair K63 Wireless Mouse: Logitech G603 Mousepad: HP Omen 300 Headphones: AKG K7XX  Other stuff: Novation Launchpad MK2, Aune T1 USB DAC/Amp, Definitive Audio MX1024 mixing board, cheap-ass XLR condenser mic

Cameras:

DSLR: Canon EOS 600D (Magic Lantern OS) Action Cam: GoPro Hero 3 Silver

Mountainbike:

Frame: Banshee Legend MKIII Fork: Marzocchi 380 C2R2 Titanium Rear shock: Rock Shox Vivid Air/Coil (switched depending on how I feel) Wheels: Spank Spike Race 33 Tires: Maxxis Minion DHR2/DHF Brakes: Magura MT5 Calipers with Shimano XT Levers Deraileur: Shimano Zee, Casette reduced to 6 Speed Crankset: Truvativ Descendant + 38T FSA Chainring Wheight: 16.4kg w/o pedals

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Posted · Original PosterOP
15 minutes ago, fabafaba said:

Mercury would also be a pain in the rear because it forms amalgams with all sorts of metals, including these used in watercooling components:

  • Aluminum. Actually looks quite pretty

aluminum-and-mercury.gif.20d01d29733959b88bf03ba6dfd9a92c.gif

  • Copper. That was used in dental fillings because it solidifies
  • Nickel. Coating your copper waterblocks gets you nothing with mercury, it reacts with that too
  • Zinc. Zinc is in brass, so forget most of your fittings

And a whole bunch of others. The elemts in orange form amalgams with mercury. Most iron alloys would be okay though.

943306649_Screenshot(62).png.9b8d4893c2df8bd5d9309ffada01168f.png

It wouldn't make a real difference. Copper is about 5 times as conductive as liquid metal TIMs with 380W/mK vs 73W/mK for Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut, so even though you'd have more metal transferring heat from one end to the other, it's five times worse than what you already have. You also can't apply liquid metal very thick without spending a small fortune, and a few fractions of a mm around a heatpipe just aren't worth it.

Ohhhhhh I forgot to mention (it's in my other topic about fan noise within laptops) in regards to db levels. I meant to ask if you applied "Liquid Metal" along the heatpipes wouldn't that reduce the need for the fans to run as loud/much?

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1 minute ago, Jason Greene said:

Ohhhhhh I forgot to mention (it's in my other topic about fan noise within laptops) in regards to db levels. I meant to ask if you applied "Liquid Metal" along the heatpipes wouldn't that reduce the need for the fans to run as loud/much?

As I said, it wouldn't make a difference if you coat the heatpipes in liquid metal because you can't apply it in a large enough amount. If you'd apply liquid metal between the CPU and the cooler, you'd get better temps or lower noise, depending on your laptops fancurve.


PC: Screw day theme users, I guess ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

CPU: i7 6850k @ 4.3GHz MoBo: MSI X99A SLI Plus RAM: 4×8GB HyperX Fury @ 2800MHz 14-16-16-35 GPU: GTX 1080ti FE @ 2100MHz Cooling: Dual 60x360mm rad, 30x360mm rad, Nickel Plexi EKWB blocks, Corsair ML120, Alphacool DDC+Eisbecher 150, Aquaero 5LT Case: Lian Li PC O-11 Dynamic PSU: Seasonic M12II Evo 850W + Custom DIY Cables Storage: 250GB 970Evo + 525GB Crucial MX300 + 2x 120GB Kingston A400 SSDs + 4x 2TB Seagate Ironwolf in Raid 5 Coming Soon: Currently waiting for more news on Threadripper 3 and its possible upgrade paths vs Cascade Lake X, I could really use some more cores.

Laptop: Acer Travelmate B117 (absolutely low power, but 12h battery life :D)

Phone: Oneplus 2 64GB

Peripherals:

Monitor: LG 34UC79G Keyboard: Corsair K63 Wireless Mouse: Logitech G603 Mousepad: HP Omen 300 Headphones: AKG K7XX  Other stuff: Novation Launchpad MK2, Aune T1 USB DAC/Amp, Definitive Audio MX1024 mixing board, cheap-ass XLR condenser mic

Cameras:

DSLR: Canon EOS 600D (Magic Lantern OS) Action Cam: GoPro Hero 3 Silver

Mountainbike:

Frame: Banshee Legend MKIII Fork: Marzocchi 380 C2R2 Titanium Rear shock: Rock Shox Vivid Air/Coil (switched depending on how I feel) Wheels: Spank Spike Race 33 Tires: Maxxis Minion DHR2/DHF Brakes: Magura MT5 Calipers with Shimano XT Levers Deraileur: Shimano Zee, Casette reduced to 6 Speed Crankset: Truvativ Descendant + 38T FSA Chainring Wheight: 16.4kg w/o pedals

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