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fluxdeity

Phanteks Bad Customer Service

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5 minutes ago, fluxdeity said:

The cable coming from the Halo ring is 3 pin, the other side of that cable you have shown, is 4 pins as well..the package for the Halo ring says 5v. Why would I overvolt it and plug it into 12v header? 

What I linked you to comes from the adapter Phanteks told you is sold separate.  The Halo plugs into the other side of the adapter.  That 12v the goes into a 12v RGB_Header.  If your mobo only has a 5v then you're SOL.  That's why he asked you to check your mobo box for one.  Also, on the official page and the more accurate Newegg listing it says "RGB Motherboard adapter required(Sold separately".  The product page on Amazon was put up by Amazon, not Phanteks.  https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16811984012 scroll down to overview as Phanteks provided that image to Newegg.  You could buy a controller, though.  But, again, this is on you.


Bloodshed and the Fenris-Wolf:

| CPU:  Ryzen 3 2200g(buying a 3900x in January for it) | CPU Cooler:  Stock at the moment(have a dark rock pro 4 for that 3900x) | Paste:  Kryonaut | Motherboard:  ASRock x470 Taichi(replacing with a Gigabyte x570 Aorus Elite) | RAM:  G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 | Boot Drives:  Crucial MX500 500 GB M.2-2280+Crucial BX500 120 GB 2.5" SSD | Storage Drives:  Toshiba X300 4 TB 128 MB Cache 3.5" HDD+PNY CS900 240 GB | GPU:  Sapphire Radeon VII 16 GB HBM2 Video Card | Case:  Cooler Master MasterBox MB511 RGB | PSU:  EVGA SuperNOVA G2 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply w/CableMod E-Series Cable Kit (Black/Red) | Case Fans:  2 Corsair SP140 49.49 CFM 140 mm Fans | Displays:  AOC U2879VF 28.0" 3840x2160 60 Hz Monitor+AOC G2460PQU 24.0" 1920x1080 144 Hz Monitor(Replacing with an LG 240 Hz monitor) | Mouse:  Corsair M65 Pro RGB | Keyboard:  Ducky Shine 7 Blackout - MK Exclusive First Release - RGB LED Double Shot PBT Mechanical Keyboard with Silent Red Switches | Mousepad:  Gaya Entertainment Oversized Gaming Mousepad Doom | Audio:  Massdrop x AKG K7XX Audiophile Open-back Headphones+Audio-Technica ATR2500-USB Cardioid Condenser USB Microphone+Kingston HyperX Cloud II 7.1 Channel Headset+iBasso IT01 Dynamic Driver Audiophile In-Ear Monitors/Earbuds (Black)+Pair of Mackie MR624s(came with stands+isolation pads) | OSes:  Windows 10 Pro+openSUSE Tumbleweed |



VashTheStampede(ROG Zephyrus M GU502):

| CPU:  i7-9750h | RAM:  32GB Dual Channel 2666mhz CL 19(Stock+Samsung 16GB DDR4 PC4-21300, 2666MHZ, 260 PIN SODIMM, 1.2V, CL 19 ) | Storage:  1TB SSD with Optane | GPU:  Nvidia RTX 2060 | Display:  144hz 3ms | Mouse:  Corsair M65 Pro |

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Posted · Original PosterOP

 

5 hours ago, valdyrgramr said:

I want you think about this very slowly.

Can you tell me again how the 3-pin plugs into the 4-pin adapter you linked?

20190522_024330.jpg

51D3olaedzL._AC_SY400_.jpg


CPU: Ryzen 5 2600 4ghz @ 1.35v  CPU Cooler: Mugen 5 Rev b  Motherboard: MSI B450 Gaming Pro Carbon  GPU: Zotac RTX 2060 +150/+1000 Memory: 16GB Viper 4 @ 3200 CL14 Samsung B-die  Storage: 1TB Patriot VPN100 NVMe; 500GB 860evo; 128gb 840pro CaseCooler Master Q500L  PSU: CX750M V2 Operating System: Windows 10 Pro Other: 6 Corsair LL Fans; 2 aRGB Strips

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4 hours ago, fluxdeity said:

Can you tell me again how the 3-pin plugs into the 4-pin adapter you linked?

You don't need both of those you only need the female from the halo to the male part of the adapter.  The reason there are extra parts on both of them is for daisy chaining.


Bloodshed and the Fenris-Wolf:

| CPU:  Ryzen 3 2200g(buying a 3900x in January for it) | CPU Cooler:  Stock at the moment(have a dark rock pro 4 for that 3900x) | Paste:  Kryonaut | Motherboard:  ASRock x470 Taichi(replacing with a Gigabyte x570 Aorus Elite) | RAM:  G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 | Boot Drives:  Crucial MX500 500 GB M.2-2280+Crucial BX500 120 GB 2.5" SSD | Storage Drives:  Toshiba X300 4 TB 128 MB Cache 3.5" HDD+PNY CS900 240 GB | GPU:  Sapphire Radeon VII 16 GB HBM2 Video Card | Case:  Cooler Master MasterBox MB511 RGB | PSU:  EVGA SuperNOVA G2 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply w/CableMod E-Series Cable Kit (Black/Red) | Case Fans:  2 Corsair SP140 49.49 CFM 140 mm Fans | Displays:  AOC U2879VF 28.0" 3840x2160 60 Hz Monitor+AOC G2460PQU 24.0" 1920x1080 144 Hz Monitor(Replacing with an LG 240 Hz monitor) | Mouse:  Corsair M65 Pro RGB | Keyboard:  Ducky Shine 7 Blackout - MK Exclusive First Release - RGB LED Double Shot PBT Mechanical Keyboard with Silent Red Switches | Mousepad:  Gaya Entertainment Oversized Gaming Mousepad Doom | Audio:  Massdrop x AKG K7XX Audiophile Open-back Headphones+Audio-Technica ATR2500-USB Cardioid Condenser USB Microphone+Kingston HyperX Cloud II 7.1 Channel Headset+iBasso IT01 Dynamic Driver Audiophile In-Ear Monitors/Earbuds (Black)+Pair of Mackie MR624s(came with stands+isolation pads) | OSes:  Windows 10 Pro+openSUSE Tumbleweed |



VashTheStampede(ROG Zephyrus M GU502):

| CPU:  i7-9750h | RAM:  32GB Dual Channel 2666mhz CL 19(Stock+Samsung 16GB DDR4 PC4-21300, 2666MHZ, 260 PIN SODIMM, 1.2V, CL 19 ) | Storage:  1TB SSD with Optane | GPU:  Nvidia RTX 2060 | Display:  144hz 3ms | Mouse:  Corsair M65 Pro |

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Posted · Original PosterOP
1 minute ago, valdyrgramr said:

You don't need both of those you only need the female from the halo to the male part of the adapter.  The reason there are extra part on both of them is for daisy chaining.

I understand they daisy chain. I'm asking why I would plug the female 3-pin cable from the Halo into the 4-pin adapter? Everything online says 12v RGB headers can fry 5v RGB components.


CPU: Ryzen 5 2600 4ghz @ 1.35v  CPU Cooler: Mugen 5 Rev b  Motherboard: MSI B450 Gaming Pro Carbon  GPU: Zotac RTX 2060 +150/+1000 Memory: 16GB Viper 4 @ 3200 CL14 Samsung B-die  Storage: 1TB Patriot VPN100 NVMe; 500GB 860evo; 128gb 840pro CaseCooler Master Q500L  PSU: CX750M V2 Operating System: Windows 10 Pro Other: 6 Corsair LL Fans; 2 aRGB Strips

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1 minute ago, fluxdeity said:

I understand they daisy chain. I'm asking why I would plug the female 3-pin cable from the Halo into the 4-pin adapter? Everything online says 12v RGB headers can fry 5v RGB components.

Where are you getting this info?


Bloodshed and the Fenris-Wolf:

| CPU:  Ryzen 3 2200g(buying a 3900x in January for it) | CPU Cooler:  Stock at the moment(have a dark rock pro 4 for that 3900x) | Paste:  Kryonaut | Motherboard:  ASRock x470 Taichi(replacing with a Gigabyte x570 Aorus Elite) | RAM:  G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 | Boot Drives:  Crucial MX500 500 GB M.2-2280+Crucial BX500 120 GB 2.5" SSD | Storage Drives:  Toshiba X300 4 TB 128 MB Cache 3.5" HDD+PNY CS900 240 GB | GPU:  Sapphire Radeon VII 16 GB HBM2 Video Card | Case:  Cooler Master MasterBox MB511 RGB | PSU:  EVGA SuperNOVA G2 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply w/CableMod E-Series Cable Kit (Black/Red) | Case Fans:  2 Corsair SP140 49.49 CFM 140 mm Fans | Displays:  AOC U2879VF 28.0" 3840x2160 60 Hz Monitor+AOC G2460PQU 24.0" 1920x1080 144 Hz Monitor(Replacing with an LG 240 Hz monitor) | Mouse:  Corsair M65 Pro RGB | Keyboard:  Ducky Shine 7 Blackout - MK Exclusive First Release - RGB LED Double Shot PBT Mechanical Keyboard with Silent Red Switches | Mousepad:  Gaya Entertainment Oversized Gaming Mousepad Doom | Audio:  Massdrop x AKG K7XX Audiophile Open-back Headphones+Audio-Technica ATR2500-USB Cardioid Condenser USB Microphone+Kingston HyperX Cloud II 7.1 Channel Headset+iBasso IT01 Dynamic Driver Audiophile In-Ear Monitors/Earbuds (Black)+Pair of Mackie MR624s(came with stands+isolation pads) | OSes:  Windows 10 Pro+openSUSE Tumbleweed |



VashTheStampede(ROG Zephyrus M GU502):

| CPU:  i7-9750h | RAM:  32GB Dual Channel 2666mhz CL 19(Stock+Samsung 16GB DDR4 PC4-21300, 2666MHZ, 260 PIN SODIMM, 1.2V, CL 19 ) | Storage:  1TB SSD with Optane | GPU:  Nvidia RTX 2060 | Display:  144hz 3ms | Mouse:  Corsair M65 Pro |

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Ok dude look, this isn't a processor. RGB LEDs aren't that sensitive to voltage. Literally just try it. If it breaks, get an RMA. I seriously doubt it will, I've never broken a 5v LED by running 12v through it.

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Posted · Original PosterOP
1 minute ago, valdyrgramr said:

Where are you getting this info?

 

Just now, Lokio27 said:

Ok dude look, this isn't a processor. RGB LEDs aren't that sensitive to voltage. Literally just try it. If it breaks, get an RMA. I seriously doubt it will, I've never broken a 5v LED by running 12v through it.

Ok even if I did, the Halo ring will not physically work with that 4-pin adapter. Just look! It's a keyed connector, as you can see by the tab on top of the plug in the pic I took. The adapter is keyed as well. The 4 pins inside the adapter do not line up with the keying on the 3-pin plug from the Halo

rgb.png


CPU: Ryzen 5 2600 4ghz @ 1.35v  CPU Cooler: Mugen 5 Rev b  Motherboard: MSI B450 Gaming Pro Carbon  GPU: Zotac RTX 2060 +150/+1000 Memory: 16GB Viper 4 @ 3200 CL14 Samsung B-die  Storage: 1TB Patriot VPN100 NVMe; 500GB 860evo; 128gb 840pro CaseCooler Master Q500L  PSU: CX750M V2 Operating System: Windows 10 Pro Other: 6 Corsair LL Fans; 2 aRGB Strips

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4 hours ago, fluxdeity said:

Ok even if I did, the Halo ring will not physically work with that 4-pin adapter. Just look! It's a keyed connector, as you can see by the tab on top of the plug in the pic I took. The adapter is keyed as well. The 4 pins inside the adapter do not line up with the keying on the 3-pin plug from the Halo

You have the one on the halo upside down and the one on the halo has enough clearance to fit into the adapter.  If you don't wanna risk it just return it and buy what you said you were.  Everyone else with both has had no problem hooking these 2 up.


Bloodshed and the Fenris-Wolf:

| CPU:  Ryzen 3 2200g(buying a 3900x in January for it) | CPU Cooler:  Stock at the moment(have a dark rock pro 4 for that 3900x) | Paste:  Kryonaut | Motherboard:  ASRock x470 Taichi(replacing with a Gigabyte x570 Aorus Elite) | RAM:  G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 | Boot Drives:  Crucial MX500 500 GB M.2-2280+Crucial BX500 120 GB 2.5" SSD | Storage Drives:  Toshiba X300 4 TB 128 MB Cache 3.5" HDD+PNY CS900 240 GB | GPU:  Sapphire Radeon VII 16 GB HBM2 Video Card | Case:  Cooler Master MasterBox MB511 RGB | PSU:  EVGA SuperNOVA G2 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply w/CableMod E-Series Cable Kit (Black/Red) | Case Fans:  2 Corsair SP140 49.49 CFM 140 mm Fans | Displays:  AOC U2879VF 28.0" 3840x2160 60 Hz Monitor+AOC G2460PQU 24.0" 1920x1080 144 Hz Monitor(Replacing with an LG 240 Hz monitor) | Mouse:  Corsair M65 Pro RGB | Keyboard:  Ducky Shine 7 Blackout - MK Exclusive First Release - RGB LED Double Shot PBT Mechanical Keyboard with Silent Red Switches | Mousepad:  Gaya Entertainment Oversized Gaming Mousepad Doom | Audio:  Massdrop x AKG K7XX Audiophile Open-back Headphones+Audio-Technica ATR2500-USB Cardioid Condenser USB Microphone+Kingston HyperX Cloud II 7.1 Channel Headset+iBasso IT01 Dynamic Driver Audiophile In-Ear Monitors/Earbuds (Black)+Pair of Mackie MR624s(came with stands+isolation pads) | OSes:  Windows 10 Pro+openSUSE Tumbleweed |



VashTheStampede(ROG Zephyrus M GU502):

| CPU:  i7-9750h | RAM:  32GB Dual Channel 2666mhz CL 19(Stock+Samsung 16GB DDR4 PC4-21300, 2666MHZ, 260 PIN SODIMM, 1.2V, CL 19 ) | Storage:  1TB SSD with Optane | GPU:  Nvidia RTX 2060 | Display:  144hz 3ms | Mouse:  Corsair M65 Pro |

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Posted · Original PosterOP
1 minute ago, valdyrgramr said:

You have the one on the halo upside down and the one on the halo has enough clearance to fit into the adapter.  If you don't wanna risk it just return it and buy what you said you were.  Everyone else with both has had no problem hooking these 2 up.

I didn't flip my picture, just cropped it over. I know they don't go together as the pic shows, the keyed connector on mine is on top and the adapter pictured has the keyed connection on bottom. The keyed section on both plugs is in the middle, so the keyed section would go together, yes. But the 4 pins on the adapter are equally spaced. The 3 pins on my Halo ring are equally spaced as well, meaning none of the pins on the adapter would plug into my halo ring when the keyed connections line up.


CPU: Ryzen 5 2600 4ghz @ 1.35v  CPU Cooler: Mugen 5 Rev b  Motherboard: MSI B450 Gaming Pro Carbon  GPU: Zotac RTX 2060 +150/+1000 Memory: 16GB Viper 4 @ 3200 CL14 Samsung B-die  Storage: 1TB Patriot VPN100 NVMe; 500GB 860evo; 128gb 840pro CaseCooler Master Q500L  PSU: CX750M V2 Operating System: Windows 10 Pro Other: 6 Corsair LL Fans; 2 aRGB Strips

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2 minutes ago, fluxdeity said:

I didn't flip my picture, just cropped it over. I know they don't go together as the pic shows, the keyed connector on mine is on top and the adapter pictured has the keyed connection on bottom. The keyed section on both plugs is in the middle, so the keyed section would go together, yes. But the 4 pins on the adapter are equally spaced. The 3 pins on my Halo ring are equally spaced as well, meaning none of the pins on the adapter would plug into my halo ring when the keyed connections line up.

Tell that everyone else who got it fit.  But, if you don't want to risk it, again, just buy what you said you were. 


Bloodshed and the Fenris-Wolf:

| CPU:  Ryzen 3 2200g(buying a 3900x in January for it) | CPU Cooler:  Stock at the moment(have a dark rock pro 4 for that 3900x) | Paste:  Kryonaut | Motherboard:  ASRock x470 Taichi(replacing with a Gigabyte x570 Aorus Elite) | RAM:  G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 | Boot Drives:  Crucial MX500 500 GB M.2-2280+Crucial BX500 120 GB 2.5" SSD | Storage Drives:  Toshiba X300 4 TB 128 MB Cache 3.5" HDD+PNY CS900 240 GB | GPU:  Sapphire Radeon VII 16 GB HBM2 Video Card | Case:  Cooler Master MasterBox MB511 RGB | PSU:  EVGA SuperNOVA G2 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply w/CableMod E-Series Cable Kit (Black/Red) | Case Fans:  2 Corsair SP140 49.49 CFM 140 mm Fans | Displays:  AOC U2879VF 28.0" 3840x2160 60 Hz Monitor+AOC G2460PQU 24.0" 1920x1080 144 Hz Monitor(Replacing with an LG 240 Hz monitor) | Mouse:  Corsair M65 Pro RGB | Keyboard:  Ducky Shine 7 Blackout - MK Exclusive First Release - RGB LED Double Shot PBT Mechanical Keyboard with Silent Red Switches | Mousepad:  Gaya Entertainment Oversized Gaming Mousepad Doom | Audio:  Massdrop x AKG K7XX Audiophile Open-back Headphones+Audio-Technica ATR2500-USB Cardioid Condenser USB Microphone+Kingston HyperX Cloud II 7.1 Channel Headset+iBasso IT01 Dynamic Driver Audiophile In-Ear Monitors/Earbuds (Black)+Pair of Mackie MR624s(came with stands+isolation pads) | OSes:  Windows 10 Pro+openSUSE Tumbleweed |



VashTheStampede(ROG Zephyrus M GU502):

| CPU:  i7-9750h | RAM:  32GB Dual Channel 2666mhz CL 19(Stock+Samsung 16GB DDR4 PC4-21300, 2666MHZ, 260 PIN SODIMM, 1.2V, CL 19 ) | Storage:  1TB SSD with Optane | GPU:  Nvidia RTX 2060 | Display:  144hz 3ms | Mouse:  Corsair M65 Pro |

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3 hours ago, Lokio27 said:

Ok dude look, this isn't a processor. RGB LEDs aren't that sensitive to voltage. Literally just try it. If it breaks, get an RMA. I seriously doubt it will, I've never broken a 5v LED by running 12v through it.

I broke a 3V 10mm red LED (one of the earlier+more robust ones) by hooking it up to a single 9V battery....mind you that was a single LED, not multiple in series or parallel...but still......they are sensitive to voltage. Just like any other semi conductor.


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Could these be knockoffs?

 

Phanteks products only come in 4 pin.

 

These could be simple RGB LEDs that cycle on a fan header.

 

Where did you buy them?

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1 hour ago, N1tro199 said:

Could these be knockoffs?

 

Phanteks products only come in 4 pin.

 

These could be simple RGB LEDs that cycle on a fan header.

 

Where did you buy them?

The normal halos have 3 pins, irrc.  It's the lux ones that have 4.


Bloodshed and the Fenris-Wolf:

| CPU:  Ryzen 3 2200g(buying a 3900x in January for it) | CPU Cooler:  Stock at the moment(have a dark rock pro 4 for that 3900x) | Paste:  Kryonaut | Motherboard:  ASRock x470 Taichi(replacing with a Gigabyte x570 Aorus Elite) | RAM:  G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 | Boot Drives:  Crucial MX500 500 GB M.2-2280+Crucial BX500 120 GB 2.5" SSD | Storage Drives:  Toshiba X300 4 TB 128 MB Cache 3.5" HDD+PNY CS900 240 GB | GPU:  Sapphire Radeon VII 16 GB HBM2 Video Card | Case:  Cooler Master MasterBox MB511 RGB | PSU:  EVGA SuperNOVA G2 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply w/CableMod E-Series Cable Kit (Black/Red) | Case Fans:  2 Corsair SP140 49.49 CFM 140 mm Fans | Displays:  AOC U2879VF 28.0" 3840x2160 60 Hz Monitor+AOC G2460PQU 24.0" 1920x1080 144 Hz Monitor(Replacing with an LG 240 Hz monitor) | Mouse:  Corsair M65 Pro RGB | Keyboard:  Ducky Shine 7 Blackout - MK Exclusive First Release - RGB LED Double Shot PBT Mechanical Keyboard with Silent Red Switches | Mousepad:  Gaya Entertainment Oversized Gaming Mousepad Doom | Audio:  Massdrop x AKG K7XX Audiophile Open-back Headphones+Audio-Technica ATR2500-USB Cardioid Condenser USB Microphone+Kingston HyperX Cloud II 7.1 Channel Headset+iBasso IT01 Dynamic Driver Audiophile In-Ear Monitors/Earbuds (Black)+Pair of Mackie MR624s(came with stands+isolation pads) | OSes:  Windows 10 Pro+openSUSE Tumbleweed |



VashTheStampede(ROG Zephyrus M GU502):

| CPU:  i7-9750h | RAM:  32GB Dual Channel 2666mhz CL 19(Stock+Samsung 16GB DDR4 PC4-21300, 2666MHZ, 260 PIN SODIMM, 1.2V, CL 19 ) | Storage:  1TB SSD with Optane | GPU:  Nvidia RTX 2060 | Display:  144hz 3ms | Mouse:  Corsair M65 Pro |

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47 minutes ago, valdyrgramr said:

The normal halos have 3 pins, irrc.  It's the lux ones that have 4.

Checked website image.png.e4755ee034603459d15dd6c562ff3c3a.png(Phanteks) they have 4 wires too. So I guess 4 pins aswell

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17 minutes ago, N1tro199 said:

Checked website image.png.e4755ee034603459d15dd6c562ff3c3a.png(Phanteks) they have 4 wires too. So I guess 4 pins aswell

The cheaper ones have 3.  You can find it in amazon reviews.  They're not fakes.


Bloodshed and the Fenris-Wolf:

| CPU:  Ryzen 3 2200g(buying a 3900x in January for it) | CPU Cooler:  Stock at the moment(have a dark rock pro 4 for that 3900x) | Paste:  Kryonaut | Motherboard:  ASRock x470 Taichi(replacing with a Gigabyte x570 Aorus Elite) | RAM:  G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 | Boot Drives:  Crucial MX500 500 GB M.2-2280+Crucial BX500 120 GB 2.5" SSD | Storage Drives:  Toshiba X300 4 TB 128 MB Cache 3.5" HDD+PNY CS900 240 GB | GPU:  Sapphire Radeon VII 16 GB HBM2 Video Card | Case:  Cooler Master MasterBox MB511 RGB | PSU:  EVGA SuperNOVA G2 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply w/CableMod E-Series Cable Kit (Black/Red) | Case Fans:  2 Corsair SP140 49.49 CFM 140 mm Fans | Displays:  AOC U2879VF 28.0" 3840x2160 60 Hz Monitor+AOC G2460PQU 24.0" 1920x1080 144 Hz Monitor(Replacing with an LG 240 Hz monitor) | Mouse:  Corsair M65 Pro RGB | Keyboard:  Ducky Shine 7 Blackout - MK Exclusive First Release - RGB LED Double Shot PBT Mechanical Keyboard with Silent Red Switches | Mousepad:  Gaya Entertainment Oversized Gaming Mousepad Doom | Audio:  Massdrop x AKG K7XX Audiophile Open-back Headphones+Audio-Technica ATR2500-USB Cardioid Condenser USB Microphone+Kingston HyperX Cloud II 7.1 Channel Headset+iBasso IT01 Dynamic Driver Audiophile In-Ear Monitors/Earbuds (Black)+Pair of Mackie MR624s(came with stands+isolation pads) | OSes:  Windows 10 Pro+openSUSE Tumbleweed |



VashTheStampede(ROG Zephyrus M GU502):

| CPU:  i7-9750h | RAM:  32GB Dual Channel 2666mhz CL 19(Stock+Samsung 16GB DDR4 PC4-21300, 2666MHZ, 260 PIN SODIMM, 1.2V, CL 19 ) | Storage:  1TB SSD with Optane | GPU:  Nvidia RTX 2060 | Display:  144hz 3ms | Mouse:  Corsair M65 Pro |

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@fluxdeity a couple of things:

1. All your links are broken in the OP. Can you please edit your post and fix the links? Right now, every single link you've made redirects to this forum thread.

2. Can you post the specific and exact model number you've purchased? And provide a link to where you bought it from?

 

The Phanteks website clearly lists the 4-pin adapter as required to make RGB Motherboard controlling work:

851017585_phantekRGBHalos.PNG.661b987e3c1e6b9ba6b21dd7c4719a48.PNG

Highlighting was done by myself.

 

All reference pictures I can find of the Phanteks RGB Halo rings also show a 4-pin cable. I also watched an unboxing video - again, a 4-pin cable.

 

So I'm curious how yours ended up with a 3-pin cable. Someone else mentioned that the cheaper ones came with 3-pin cables, but I can't find any 3-pin version listed on the Phanteks website.

 

Some links and further information could really be helpful.


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Posted · Original PosterOP
41 minutes ago, dalekphalm said:

@fluxdeity a couple of things:

1. All your links are broken in the OP. Can you please edit your post and fix the links? Right now, every single link you've made redirects to this forum thread.

2. Can you post the specific and exact model number you've purchased? And provide a link to where you bought it from?

 

The Phanteks website clearly lists the 4-pin adapter as required to make RGB Motherboard controlling work:

851017585_phantekRGBHalos.PNG.661b987e3c1e6b9ba6b21dd7c4719a48.PNG

Highlighting was done by myself.

 

All reference pictures I can find of the Phanteks RGB Halo rings also show a 4-pin cable. I also watched an unboxing video - again, a 4-pin cable.

 

So I'm curious how yours ended up with a 3-pin cable. Someone else mentioned that the cheaper ones came with 3-pin cables, but I can't find any 3-pin version listed on the Phanteks website.

 

Some links and further information could really be helpful.

I purchased the PH-FF120DRGBP_BK01. I believe this one is the 3-pin model that they do not even make an adapter for.

I bought it from this link. The first and third picture shows the 4-pin model which I thought I was buying. I didn't notice the first time around but it also shows the model I received in the second picture. The last picture even shows the LUX bundle with the 4-pin Halo ring and the 4-pin adapter.

 

Not sure if I would blame Newegg for false advertising or Phanteks for making such confusing SKUs/Products, not even producing the 3-pin adapter I need, and not helping retailers list their merchandise properly.


CPU: Ryzen 5 2600 4ghz @ 1.35v  CPU Cooler: Mugen 5 Rev b  Motherboard: MSI B450 Gaming Pro Carbon  GPU: Zotac RTX 2060 +150/+1000 Memory: 16GB Viper 4 @ 3200 CL14 Samsung B-die  Storage: 1TB Patriot VPN100 NVMe; 500GB 860evo; 128gb 840pro CaseCooler Master Q500L  PSU: CX750M V2 Operating System: Windows 10 Pro Other: 6 Corsair LL Fans; 2 aRGB Strips

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Posted · Original PosterOP
1 hour ago, dalekphalm said:

@fluxdeity 

Some links and further information could really be helpful.

I was able to find this amazon review of one person who was able to find the RGB adapter they talk of. His came with the DRGB LED Strips. It's the same 3-pin adapter I need but they don't sell it anywhere by itself. I can't find it anywhere. So I will have to return these Halo rings and look for something else.

The only adapter I can find from phanteks is a 4-pin, yet this guy has a 3-pin that works with the 3-pin Halo rings.

amazon.png


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3 minutes ago, fluxdeity said:

I purchased the PH-FF120DRGBP_BK01. I believe this one is the 3-pin model that they do not even make an adapter for.

I bought it from this link. The first and third picture shows the 4-pin model which I thought I was buying. I didn't notice the first time around but it also shows the model I received in the second picture. The last picture even shows the LUX bundle with the 4-pin Halo ring and the 4-pin adapter.

 

Not sure if I would blame Newegg for false advertising or Phanteks for making such confusing SKUs/Products, not even producing the 3-pin adapter I need, and not helping retailers list their merchandise properly.

So the DRGB model is a totally different product, it appears. It's separately listed on the Phanteks website, and also lists a different required adapter.

 

Example:

PH-FF120RGBP_BK01

http://phanteks.com/Halos.html

1228198642_phantekRGBHalos_1.PNG.c1d3052a71106bd8c821ab577c670a46.PNG

 

PH-FF120DRGBP_BK01 (Notice the D between 120 and RGB)

http://www.phanteks.com/HalosDigital.html

223060415_phantekRGBHalos-Dmodel.PNG.73d351e4051b987713eb770466315924.PNG

 

The RGB adapter is called the "DRGB Adapter".

Check here:

http://www.phanteks.com/DRGB.html

 

Also found this:

https://www.amazon.ca/Phanteks-PH-DRGB_SKT-Digital-Starter-Controller/dp/B07C1HQYR7


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Posted · Original PosterOP
13 minutes ago, dalekphalm said:

 

PH-FF120DRGBP_BK01 (Notice the D between 120 and RGB)

http://www.phanteks.com/HalosDigital.html

223060415_phantekRGBHalos-Dmodel.PNG.73d351e4051b987713eb770466315924.PNG

 

The RGB adapter is called the "DRGB Adapter".

Check here:

http://www.phanteks.com/DRGB.html

The model number I purchased from Newegg doesn't even appear on their website. It would appear Phanteks is to blame for this, as I suspected. The one I purchased is supposedly this one. The model number is different though, I purchased PH-FF120DRGBP_BK01 but Phanteks calls it PH-FF1X0DRGBP. As you can see it doesn't include the BK01 that I got from Newegg. Also on the Phanteks website they show both models! Phanteks shows the 4-pin in the first picture, but the last picture shows what I received(3-pin model with no way to hook up)

phanteks.png


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1 minute ago, fluxdeity said:

The model number I purchased from Newegg doesn't even appear on their website. It would appear Phanteks is to blame for this, as I suspected. The one I purchased is supposedly this one. The model number is different though, I purchased PH-FF120DRGBP_BK01 but Phanteks calls it PH-FF1X0DRGBP. As you can see it doesn't include the BK01 that I got from Newegg. Also on the Phanteks website, same as Newegg, they show both models! Phanteks shows the 4-pin in the first picture, but the last picture shows what I received(3-pin model with no way to hook up)

The X just means placeholder for either 2 or 4, depending on 120mm or 140mm.

 

I'd say Phanteks is slightly to blame for having confusing products. NewEgg might need to more accurately list the two different products as well.

 

But, in either case, they both (The D and non-D versions) clearly list an adapter is required, on the Phanteks website. Anything not on the Phanteks website is the responsibility of the retailer.


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Posted · Original PosterOP
34 minutes ago, dalekphalm said:

The X just means placeholder for either 2 or 4, depending on 120mm or 140mm.

 

I'd say Phanteks is slightly to blame for having confusing products. NewEgg might need to more accurately list the two different products as well.

 

But, in either case, they both (The D and non-D versions) clearly list an adapter is required, on the Phanteks website. Anything not on the Phanteks website is the responsibility of the retailer.

I didn't refer to the X, I said the listing on Phanteks website doesn't include the BK01 at the end.

 

And on Phanteks website the listing for the digital version, which is the one I purchased, shows a 4-pin and 3-pin model in the pictures. 


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1 hour ago, fluxdeity said:

I didn't refer to the X, I said the listing on Phanteks website doesn't include the BK01 at the end.

 

And on Phanteks website the listing for the digital version, which is the one I purchased, shows a 4-pin and 3-pin model in the pictures. 

You can't always go by pictures, since sometimes they are stock photos that apply to multiple products. This applies to any business - always refer to specifications, unless they clearly state the picture is of the specific product you bought.

 

The BK01 just means it's the black version (not that they make any other version that I'm aware of).


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