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Did my CPU got fried???

Hello everyone,

So today I was playing Battlefield, I smelled something burning. My temps were normal tho. I shut down my PC immediately, hoping the smell wasn't coming from it. I tried to reboot, and CPU_LED started to light up. So I turned my PC off again, and pulled off the CPU power plug, and I saw the plastic burned and molded into the socket. I don't know why and how that happened, but I want to know that if it killed my cpu or not. Any thoughts? What steps should I do to revive my pc? Thanks for all the answers!

 

I attached the pic of my socket.

Here is my full specs of the machine I am rocking

AMD FX 8350 @ 4.5 GHZ

ASUS M5A99FX PRO

ASUS GTX 760

CORSAIR TX 850M PSU

CORSAIR H80i v2 LIQUID COOLER

Cables are phanteks branded. So is my case.

 

5CA8467A-09DA-4D9D-BBCE-16027AC19BE0.JPG

31C7BD8E-9EF3-46AA-8376-89D8B7FDB6AC.JPG

CPU: Ryzen 5 5600X - GPU: EVGA RTX 3070 XC3 ULTRA - Motherboard: ASUS ROG STRIX B550-I - Ram: Corsair Vengance LPX 16GB @3200Mhz - CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-L12S - PSU: Corsair SF600 Platinum - SSDs: WD Black SN750 500GB w/ EKWB Heatsink - Case: FormD T1

Laptop: 2020 M1 Macbook Air 8/256

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By the way I built this baby 6 years ago. Is it normal for this age?

CPU: Ryzen 5 5600X - GPU: EVGA RTX 3070 XC3 ULTRA - Motherboard: ASUS ROG STRIX B550-I - Ram: Corsair Vengance LPX 16GB @3200Mhz - CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-L12S - PSU: Corsair SF600 Platinum - SSDs: WD Black SN750 500GB w/ EKWB Heatsink - Case: FormD T1

Laptop: 2020 M1 Macbook Air 8/256

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2 minutes ago, Descorator said:

Hello everyone,

So today I was playing Battlefield, I smelled something burning. My temps were normal tho. I shut down my PC immediately, hoping the smell wasn't coming from it. I tried to reboot, and CPU_LED started to light up. So I turned my PC off again, and pulled off the CPU power plug, and I saw the plastic burned and molded into the socket. I don't know why and how that happened, but I want to know that if it killed my cpu or not. Any thoughts? What steps should I do to revive my pc? Thanks for all the answers!

 

I attached the pic of my socket.

Here is my full specs of the machine I am rocking

AMD FX 8350 @ 4.5 GHZ

ASUS M5A99FX PRO

ASUS GTX 760

CORSAIR TX 850M PSU

CORSAIR H80i v2 LIQUID COOLER

Cables are phanteks branded. So is my case.

 

5CA8467A-09DA-4D9D-BBCE-16027AC19BE0.JPG

31C7BD8E-9EF3-46AA-8376-89D8B7FDB6AC.JPG

All I can tell you is that is one of the +12v connections, and its right dickered!

 

But seriously, the fact that just now has melted makes me think your rig was pulling all of the power through that one connection, could be the motherboard solder joints have broken, the connector was out of tolerances and it made the other pins not make a connection or something on the PSU side that 'broke' the connection to the other pins. 

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    EVGA Supernova 1000w 
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Just now, Descorator said:

By the way I built this baby 6 years ago. Is it normal for this age?

Not normal at all. The only way you really test if trying the cpu in a different system. Dont use that motherboard or psu, it may have issues. See if you can still RMA stuff. Are those custom cables, or cable that came with the PSU?

 

I suspect it may just be a random event because if something WAS built wrong, it wouldnt wait and show up after being used for 6 years.

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Well, it’s about time for an upgrade anyways, but you will definitely need to replace PSU/motherboard

Bethesda PC:   R7 3700X  -  Asrock B550 Extreme 4  -  Corsair Dominator Platinum RGB 16GB@3.6GHz -  Zotac AMP Extreme 1080TI -  Samsung 860 Evo 256GB  -  WD Blue 2TB SSD -  500DX  -  Stock cooling lul  -  Rm650x

CrumpleBox V3:  Xeon X5680  -  Asus X58 Sabertooth  -  DDr3 16GB@1.33Ghz  -  Gigabyte 1660s -  TT smart RGB 700W  -  

Cooler Master Storm Trooper  -  120GB Samsung 850 Pro   -  LTT Edition Chromax NH-D15 ?

 

CrumpleBox 3 ROTF: I5-6400  -  MSI B150m Mortar  -  16GB 2133Mhz Vengeance Pro RGB  -  Strix 1070Ti - GTX 1070 FE  -  Adata 128GB SSD  -  Fractal Design Define C  -  Gammaxx 400V2  -  Cooler Master silent pro gold 1000W

CrumpleBox 2: i7-7820x - MSI X299 Raider - 32GB Thermaltake Toughram 3.6Ghz - 2x Sapphire Nitro Fury - 128GB PCie Adata SSD - O11 Dynamic - EVGA CLC 360 - Corsair RM1000X

 

Perhiperals:  Gateway 900p60 monitor  -  Dell 1024x768@75  -  Logi. G403 Carbon  -  Logi. G502  -  SteSer. Arctis 5  -  SteSer. Rival 110 - Corsair Strafe RGB MK.2

 

 

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1 minute ago, Grockle88 said:

Well, it’s about time for an upgrade anyways, but you will definitely need to replace PSU/motherboard

I don't think that It was because of the PSU, but maybe my mobo

CPU: Ryzen 5 5600X - GPU: EVGA RTX 3070 XC3 ULTRA - Motherboard: ASUS ROG STRIX B550-I - Ram: Corsair Vengance LPX 16GB @3200Mhz - CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-L12S - PSU: Corsair SF600 Platinum - SSDs: WD Black SN750 500GB w/ EKWB Heatsink - Case: FormD T1

Laptop: 2020 M1 Macbook Air 8/256

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2 minutes ago, Bajantechnician said:

Not normal at all. The only way you really test if trying the cpu in a different system. Dont use that motherboard or psu, it may have issues. See if you can still RMA stuff. Are those custom cables, or cable that came with the PSU?

 

I suspect it may just be a random event because if something WAS built wrong, it wouldnt wait and show up after being used for 6 years.

Hmm I can't RMA anything since 6 years passed :(. The last week i did clean some dust out of my system safely, but it was a routine clean that I do every month or so.

CPU: Ryzen 5 5600X - GPU: EVGA RTX 3070 XC3 ULTRA - Motherboard: ASUS ROG STRIX B550-I - Ram: Corsair Vengance LPX 16GB @3200Mhz - CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-L12S - PSU: Corsair SF600 Platinum - SSDs: WD Black SN750 500GB w/ EKWB Heatsink - Case: FormD T1

Laptop: 2020 M1 Macbook Air 8/256

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4 minutes ago, Ben Quigley said:

All I can tell you is that is one of the +12v connections, and its right dickered!

 

But seriously, the fact that just now has melted makes me think your rig was pulling all of the power through that one connection, could be the motherboard solder joints have broken, the connector was out of tolerances and it made the other pins not make a connection or something on the PSU side that 'broke' the connection to the other pins. 

Welp, I think Imma repair/replace the socket and try it again :P

CPU: Ryzen 5 5600X - GPU: EVGA RTX 3070 XC3 ULTRA - Motherboard: ASUS ROG STRIX B550-I - Ram: Corsair Vengance LPX 16GB @3200Mhz - CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-L12S - PSU: Corsair SF600 Platinum - SSDs: WD Black SN750 500GB w/ EKWB Heatsink - Case: FormD T1

Laptop: 2020 M1 Macbook Air 8/256

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If the PSU is also 6 years ago, just go ahead and replace it. Modern PSU's have more circuit protections than even just a few generations ago.

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Poor connections can cause this. Something right in that area probably got loose and the amount of current going through it cause the loose connection to get hot, then probably loosened it even more producing even more heat.

 

If you were able to perform a successful shutdown I've got my money on the CPU is fine. After the shutdown that connector cooled down and probably disconnected completely causing your attempted restart to fail.

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2 minutes ago, Windows7ge said:

Poor connections can cause this. Something right in that area probably got loose and the amount of current going through it cause the loose connection to get hot, then probably loosened it even more producing even more heat.

 

If you were able to perform a successful shutdown I've got my money on the CPU is fine. After the shutdown that connector cooled down and probably disconnected completely causing your attempted restart to fail.

So If I figure a way out to clean the burnt socket it will be all good?

CPU: Ryzen 5 5600X - GPU: EVGA RTX 3070 XC3 ULTRA - Motherboard: ASUS ROG STRIX B550-I - Ram: Corsair Vengance LPX 16GB @3200Mhz - CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-L12S - PSU: Corsair SF600 Platinum - SSDs: WD Black SN750 500GB w/ EKWB Heatsink - Case: FormD T1

Laptop: 2020 M1 Macbook Air 8/256

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Just now, Descorator said:

So If I figure a way out to clean the burnt socket it will be all good?

I wouldn’t, I’m pretty sure the connectors on both end are toast, but replace that cable and the Mobo and you should be fine

Bethesda PC:   R7 3700X  -  Asrock B550 Extreme 4  -  Corsair Dominator Platinum RGB 16GB@3.6GHz -  Zotac AMP Extreme 1080TI -  Samsung 860 Evo 256GB  -  WD Blue 2TB SSD -  500DX  -  Stock cooling lul  -  Rm650x

CrumpleBox V3:  Xeon X5680  -  Asus X58 Sabertooth  -  DDr3 16GB@1.33Ghz  -  Gigabyte 1660s -  TT smart RGB 700W  -  

Cooler Master Storm Trooper  -  120GB Samsung 850 Pro   -  LTT Edition Chromax NH-D15 ?

 

CrumpleBox 3 ROTF: I5-6400  -  MSI B150m Mortar  -  16GB 2133Mhz Vengeance Pro RGB  -  Strix 1070Ti - GTX 1070 FE  -  Adata 128GB SSD  -  Fractal Design Define C  -  Gammaxx 400V2  -  Cooler Master silent pro gold 1000W

CrumpleBox 2: i7-7820x - MSI X299 Raider - 32GB Thermaltake Toughram 3.6Ghz - 2x Sapphire Nitro Fury - 128GB PCie Adata SSD - O11 Dynamic - EVGA CLC 360 - Corsair RM1000X

 

Perhiperals:  Gateway 900p60 monitor  -  Dell 1024x768@75  -  Logi. G403 Carbon  -  Logi. G502  -  SteSer. Arctis 5  -  SteSer. Rival 110 - Corsair Strafe RGB MK.2

 

 

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Honestly though, if you can afford it, I would just upgrade, since you will need a new MOBO anyways

Bethesda PC:   R7 3700X  -  Asrock B550 Extreme 4  -  Corsair Dominator Platinum RGB 16GB@3.6GHz -  Zotac AMP Extreme 1080TI -  Samsung 860 Evo 256GB  -  WD Blue 2TB SSD -  500DX  -  Stock cooling lul  -  Rm650x

CrumpleBox V3:  Xeon X5680  -  Asus X58 Sabertooth  -  DDr3 16GB@1.33Ghz  -  Gigabyte 1660s -  TT smart RGB 700W  -  

Cooler Master Storm Trooper  -  120GB Samsung 850 Pro   -  LTT Edition Chromax NH-D15 ?

 

CrumpleBox 3 ROTF: I5-6400  -  MSI B150m Mortar  -  16GB 2133Mhz Vengeance Pro RGB  -  Strix 1070Ti - GTX 1070 FE  -  Adata 128GB SSD  -  Fractal Design Define C  -  Gammaxx 400V2  -  Cooler Master silent pro gold 1000W

CrumpleBox 2: i7-7820x - MSI X299 Raider - 32GB Thermaltake Toughram 3.6Ghz - 2x Sapphire Nitro Fury - 128GB PCie Adata SSD - O11 Dynamic - EVGA CLC 360 - Corsair RM1000X

 

Perhiperals:  Gateway 900p60 monitor  -  Dell 1024x768@75  -  Logi. G403 Carbon  -  Logi. G502  -  SteSer. Arctis 5  -  SteSer. Rival 110 - Corsair Strafe RGB MK.2

 

 

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3 minutes ago, Descorator said:

So If I figure a way out to clean the burnt socket it will be all good?

Nope. Unless you have the resources to remove that connector, replace it, and replace the cable on that PSU (which there's no guarantee it won't do it again for reasons unknown) then I'd scrap the board (or keep it for parts) and replace the PSU since its already 6 years old.

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3 minutes ago, Grockle88 said:

Honestly though, if you can afford it, I would just upgrade, since you will need a new MOBO anyways

Thanks for the replies and answers mate :3

CPU: Ryzen 5 5600X - GPU: EVGA RTX 3070 XC3 ULTRA - Motherboard: ASUS ROG STRIX B550-I - Ram: Corsair Vengance LPX 16GB @3200Mhz - CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-L12S - PSU: Corsair SF600 Platinum - SSDs: WD Black SN750 500GB w/ EKWB Heatsink - Case: FormD T1

Laptop: 2020 M1 Macbook Air 8/256

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2 minutes ago, Windows7ge said:

Nope. Unless you have the resources to remove that connector, replace it, and replace the cable on that PSU (which there's no guarantee it won't do it again for reasons unknown) then I'd scrap the board (or keep it for parts) and replace the PSU since its already 6 years old.

Thanks for the advice, I will think about getting a new system.

CPU: Ryzen 5 5600X - GPU: EVGA RTX 3070 XC3 ULTRA - Motherboard: ASUS ROG STRIX B550-I - Ram: Corsair Vengance LPX 16GB @3200Mhz - CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-L12S - PSU: Corsair SF600 Platinum - SSDs: WD Black SN750 500GB w/ EKWB Heatsink - Case: FormD T1

Laptop: 2020 M1 Macbook Air 8/256

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1 minute ago, Descorator said:

Thanks for the advice, I will think about getting a new system.

Honestly, it’s not a terrible time in terms of times to upgrade for your PC to have blown, zen 2announcment in under 2 weeks

Bethesda PC:   R7 3700X  -  Asrock B550 Extreme 4  -  Corsair Dominator Platinum RGB 16GB@3.6GHz -  Zotac AMP Extreme 1080TI -  Samsung 860 Evo 256GB  -  WD Blue 2TB SSD -  500DX  -  Stock cooling lul  -  Rm650x

CrumpleBox V3:  Xeon X5680  -  Asus X58 Sabertooth  -  DDr3 16GB@1.33Ghz  -  Gigabyte 1660s -  TT smart RGB 700W  -  

Cooler Master Storm Trooper  -  120GB Samsung 850 Pro   -  LTT Edition Chromax NH-D15 ?

 

CrumpleBox 3 ROTF: I5-6400  -  MSI B150m Mortar  -  16GB 2133Mhz Vengeance Pro RGB  -  Strix 1070Ti - GTX 1070 FE  -  Adata 128GB SSD  -  Fractal Design Define C  -  Gammaxx 400V2  -  Cooler Master silent pro gold 1000W

CrumpleBox 2: i7-7820x - MSI X299 Raider - 32GB Thermaltake Toughram 3.6Ghz - 2x Sapphire Nitro Fury - 128GB PCie Adata SSD - O11 Dynamic - EVGA CLC 360 - Corsair RM1000X

 

Perhiperals:  Gateway 900p60 monitor  -  Dell 1024x768@75  -  Logi. G403 Carbon  -  Logi. G502  -  SteSer. Arctis 5  -  SteSer. Rival 110 - Corsair Strafe RGB MK.2

 

 

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28 minutes ago, Descorator said:

So If I figure a way out to clean the burnt socket it will be all good?

 I've been in computer repair for 8 years, I can understand if you're strapped for cash, but it's a very bad idea to try and use either your PSU or your MOBO again unless you want to fry more components.You have two options you can buy a new PSU and motherboard for your 8350 or you can upgrade and get a modern CPU with a new MOBO and Ram, as well as a new PSU. Either way you're going to have to replace the Power Supply and get a new motherboard. Personally I'd wait for Zen2 and upgrade then.

Main Desktop: CPU - i9-14900k | Mobo - Gigabyte Z690 Aorus Elite AX DDR4 | GPU - ASUS TUF Gaming OC RTX 4090 RAM - Corsair Vengeance Pro RGB 64GB 3600mhz | AIO - H150i Pro XT | PSU - Corsair RM1000X | Case - Phanteks P500A Digital - White | Storage - Samsung 970 Pro M.2 NVME SSD 512GB / Sabrent Rocket 1TB Nvme / Samsung 860 Evo Pro 500GB / Samsung 970 EVO Plus 2tb Nvme / Samsung 870 QVO 4TB  |

 

TV Streaming PC: Intel Nuc CPU - i7 8th Gen | RAM - 16GB DDR4 2666mhz | Storage - 256GB WD Black M.2 NVME SSD |

 

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1 hour ago, Descorator said:

So If I figure a way out to clean the burnt socket it will be all good?

No, discard the motherboard and power supply (unless you have another 12v CPU cable if it came with two of them, then discard the motherboard), but it's probably best and smartest to buy a new PSU as well.

The power supply plug melted because only four of the 8 pins were connected, and I think the 4 pin is rated to 165W maximum (that's absolute maximum, not sustained load, 165W sustained will melt the connector).  This was a common thing that happened people upgraded Conroe X6800 boards to QX9650 and overclocked, when those boards only had 4 pin connectors (designed for dual core originally).  Either your board had a connection fault or the cable wasn't fully inserted.

 

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It's back alive everyone! Cleaned the socket, and downclocked the CPU, hope it doesn't burn to flames. I am testing the temps and hoping it would be fine. 

I think the problem was poor contact points, I was using an aftermarket CPU cable, now I plugged in the original one.

I know some of you will get mad at me but I really don't have enough money to get a new system. Even a new PSU or mobo...

So I thank all of you for helping me! 

@Falkentyne @SpookyCitrus@GrockleTD @Windows7ge

IMG_5412.JPG

CPU: Ryzen 5 5600X - GPU: EVGA RTX 3070 XC3 ULTRA - Motherboard: ASUS ROG STRIX B550-I - Ram: Corsair Vengance LPX 16GB @3200Mhz - CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-L12S - PSU: Corsair SF600 Platinum - SSDs: WD Black SN750 500GB w/ EKWB Heatsink - Case: FormD T1

Laptop: 2020 M1 Macbook Air 8/256

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6 minutes ago, Descorator said:

It's back alive everyone! Cleaned the socket, and downclocked the CPU, hope it doesn't burn to flames. I am testing the temps and hoping it would be fine. 

I think the problem was poor contact points, I was using an aftermarket CPU cable, now I plugged in the original one.

I know some of you will get mad at me but I really don't have enough money to get a new system. Even a new PSU or mobo...

So I thank all of you for helping me! 

@Falkentyne @SpookyCitrus@GrockleTD @Windows7ge

IMG_5412.JPG

I'd at least rig like a thermal probe to it and either monitor that or have it trip a little beeping speaker when it gets too hot.

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You should buy some Deoxit D5 contact cleaner and fully clean the pins of the power pins with it.

It's safe to use (just let it dry for 10 minutes after using it)

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