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unknown001

HELP i burned my psu

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Posted · Original PosterOP

i plugged in a sketchy hdd. as i was trying to install windows on it, i smelled burning plastic. when i looked at the hard drive, i noticed that the power cord was melted. is there anyway to fix this

note: i do not have a solder and i dont want to throw away the psu. the computer is unplugged

2019-04-22_15-32-35_385.jpg

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5 minutes ago, unknown001 said:

i plugged in a sketchy hdd. as i was trying to install windows on it, i smelled burning plastic. when i looked at the hard drive, i noticed that the power cord was melted. is there anyway to fix this

note: i do not have a solder and i dont want to throw away the psu. the computer is unplugged

If the PSU was shorting out and it burned down your SATA Power cable like nothing was happening then that's a crappy PSU and you should throw it out honestly

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What PSU was that?!
 

And that HDD was a SAS HDD by the way...


"Hell is full of good meanings, but Heaven is full of good works"

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Posted · Original PosterOP

the psu is a thermaltake tr2 500w

the psu didnt give me any issues during ownership

and could the hdd be the issue

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You could just cut the wires on that SATA connector and use some electrical tape to insulate the ends. Or just pull out the wires from the connector - see picture below

The power supply (if it still works), it will work without the connector at the end of those cables... just use another sata connector as if nothing happened.

Double check where you insert connectors next time.

 

 

image.png.0af172de6484f42dcd24c38ba2a961f9.png

 

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1 minute ago, unknown001 said:

i found clear tape. will that work?

No


Bloodshed and the Fenris-Wolf:

| CPU:  Ryzen 3 2200g(buying a 3900x in January for it) | CPU Cooler:  Stock at the moment(have a dark rock pro 4 for that 3900x) | Paste:  Kryonaut | Motherboard:  ASRock x470 Taichi(replacing with a Gigabyte x570 Aorus Elite) | RAM:  G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 | Boot Drives:  Crucial MX500 500 GB M.2-2280+Crucial BX500 120 GB 2.5" SSD | Storage Drives:  Toshiba X300 4 TB 128 MB Cache 3.5" HDD+PNY CS900 240 GB | GPU:  Sapphire Radeon VII 16 GB HBM2 Video Card | Case:  Cooler Master MasterBox MB511 RGB | PSU:  EVGA SuperNOVA G2 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply w/CableMod E-Series Cable Kit (Black/Red) | Case Fans:  2 Corsair SP140 49.49 CFM 140 mm Fans | Displays:  AOC U2879VF 28.0" 3840x2160 60 Hz Monitor+AOC G2460PQU 24.0" 1920x1080 144 Hz Monitor(Replacing with an LG 240 Hz monitor) | Mouse:  Corsair M65 Pro RGB | Keyboard:  Ducky Shine 7 Blackout - MK Exclusive First Release - RGB LED Double Shot PBT Mechanical Keyboard with Silent Red Switches | Mousepad:  Gaya Entertainment Oversized Gaming Mousepad Doom | Audio:  Massdrop x AKG K7XX Audiophile Open-back Headphones+Audio-Technica ATR2500-USB Cardioid Condenser USB Microphone+Kingston HyperX Cloud II 7.1 Channel Headset+iBasso IT01 Dynamic Driver Audiophile In-Ear Monitors/Earbuds (Black)+Pair of Mackie MR624s(came with stands+isolation pads) | OSes:  Windows 10 Pro+openSUSE Tumbleweed |



VashTheStampede(ROG Zephyrus M GU502):

| CPU:  i7-9750h | RAM:  32GB Dual Channel 2666mhz CL 19(Stock+Samsung 16GB DDR4 PC4-21300, 2666MHZ, 260 PIN SODIMM, 1.2V, CL 19 ) | Storage:  1TB SSD with Optane | GPU:  Nvidia RTX 2060 | Display:  144hz 3ms | Mouse:  Corsair M65 Pro |

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3 minutes ago, unknown001 said:

the psu is a thermaltake tr2 500w

the psu didnt give me any issues during ownership

Yes, and?!

That don't make it good or anything.


Why do people always think that because they don't think the PSU might have caused issues that they have a good one?!

 

3 minutes ago, unknown001 said:

and could the hdd be the issue

Its a SAS HDD.

How díd you connect it?!
Did you remove the thing bin the middle?!


"Hell is full of good meanings, but Heaven is full of good works"

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8 minutes ago, unknown001 said:

the psu is a thermaltake tr2 500w 

that's a bottom of the barrel PSU, I really don't recommend you use it, it's a fire hazard

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3 minutes ago, unknown001 said:

i found clear tape. will that work?

It will look ugly as shit, but you could get some PAPER, wrap each end of the wire in paper and then use the regular clear tape to keep the paper and everything in place.

Paper is electrical insulator.

But just go to the store and buy a small roll of electrical tape, or some heatshrink tube (you can then cut bits of heatshrink and use heat to shrink the tube over the exposed metal bits)

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1 minute ago, unknown001 said:

yes i removed the middle piece

That cable isn't designed to power the HDD you're using.  That's where you ran into trouble.  It's designed to power SATA drives and some other devices that use SATA power.  Removing the middle part on the drive doesn't magically make it work.  However, that is literally one of the worst PSUs on the market which can lead to further problems that Stefan knows more about than me.


Bloodshed and the Fenris-Wolf:

| CPU:  Ryzen 3 2200g(buying a 3900x in January for it) | CPU Cooler:  Stock at the moment(have a dark rock pro 4 for that 3900x) | Paste:  Kryonaut | Motherboard:  ASRock x470 Taichi(replacing with a Gigabyte x570 Aorus Elite) | RAM:  G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 | Boot Drives:  Crucial MX500 500 GB M.2-2280+Crucial BX500 120 GB 2.5" SSD | Storage Drives:  Toshiba X300 4 TB 128 MB Cache 3.5" HDD+PNY CS900 240 GB | GPU:  Sapphire Radeon VII 16 GB HBM2 Video Card | Case:  Cooler Master MasterBox MB511 RGB | PSU:  EVGA SuperNOVA G2 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply w/CableMod E-Series Cable Kit (Black/Red) | Case Fans:  2 Corsair SP140 49.49 CFM 140 mm Fans | Displays:  AOC U2879VF 28.0" 3840x2160 60 Hz Monitor+AOC G2460PQU 24.0" 1920x1080 144 Hz Monitor(Replacing with an LG 240 Hz monitor) | Mouse:  Corsair M65 Pro RGB | Keyboard:  Ducky Shine 7 Blackout - MK Exclusive First Release - RGB LED Double Shot PBT Mechanical Keyboard with Silent Red Switches | Mousepad:  Gaya Entertainment Oversized Gaming Mousepad Doom | Audio:  Massdrop x AKG K7XX Audiophile Open-back Headphones+Audio-Technica ATR2500-USB Cardioid Condenser USB Microphone+Kingston HyperX Cloud II 7.1 Channel Headset+iBasso IT01 Dynamic Driver Audiophile In-Ear Monitors/Earbuds (Black)+Pair of Mackie MR624s(came with stands+isolation pads) | OSes:  Windows 10 Pro+openSUSE Tumbleweed |



VashTheStampede(ROG Zephyrus M GU502):

| CPU:  i7-9750h | RAM:  32GB Dual Channel 2666mhz CL 19(Stock+Samsung 16GB DDR4 PC4-21300, 2666MHZ, 260 PIN SODIMM, 1.2V, CL 19 ) | Storage:  1TB SSD with Optane | GPU:  Nvidia RTX 2060 | Display:  144hz 3ms | Mouse:  Corsair M65 Pro |

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2 minutes ago, mariushm said:

It will look ugly as shit, but you could get some PAPER, wrap each end of the wire in paper and then use the regular clear tape to keep the paper and everything in place.

Paper is electrical insulator.

But just go to the store and buy a small roll of electrical tape, or some heatshrink tube (you can then cut bits of heatshrink and use heat to shrink the tube over the exposed metal bits)

The problem is that normal clear tape isn't designed to be an insulator, so it most likely wouldn't work.  Not sure if paper would help at all.


Bloodshed and the Fenris-Wolf:

| CPU:  Ryzen 3 2200g(buying a 3900x in January for it) | CPU Cooler:  Stock at the moment(have a dark rock pro 4 for that 3900x) | Paste:  Kryonaut | Motherboard:  ASRock x470 Taichi(replacing with a Gigabyte x570 Aorus Elite) | RAM:  G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 | Boot Drives:  Crucial MX500 500 GB M.2-2280+Crucial BX500 120 GB 2.5" SSD | Storage Drives:  Toshiba X300 4 TB 128 MB Cache 3.5" HDD+PNY CS900 240 GB | GPU:  Sapphire Radeon VII 16 GB HBM2 Video Card | Case:  Cooler Master MasterBox MB511 RGB | PSU:  EVGA SuperNOVA G2 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply w/CableMod E-Series Cable Kit (Black/Red) | Case Fans:  2 Corsair SP140 49.49 CFM 140 mm Fans | Displays:  AOC U2879VF 28.0" 3840x2160 60 Hz Monitor+AOC G2460PQU 24.0" 1920x1080 144 Hz Monitor(Replacing with an LG 240 Hz monitor) | Mouse:  Corsair M65 Pro RGB | Keyboard:  Ducky Shine 7 Blackout - MK Exclusive First Release - RGB LED Double Shot PBT Mechanical Keyboard with Silent Red Switches | Mousepad:  Gaya Entertainment Oversized Gaming Mousepad Doom | Audio:  Massdrop x AKG K7XX Audiophile Open-back Headphones+Audio-Technica ATR2500-USB Cardioid Condenser USB Microphone+Kingston HyperX Cloud II 7.1 Channel Headset+iBasso IT01 Dynamic Driver Audiophile In-Ear Monitors/Earbuds (Black)+Pair of Mackie MR624s(came with stands+isolation pads) | OSes:  Windows 10 Pro+openSUSE Tumbleweed |



VashTheStampede(ROG Zephyrus M GU502):

| CPU:  i7-9750h | RAM:  32GB Dual Channel 2666mhz CL 19(Stock+Samsung 16GB DDR4 PC4-21300, 2666MHZ, 260 PIN SODIMM, 1.2V, CL 19 ) | Storage:  1TB SSD with Optane | GPU:  Nvidia RTX 2060 | Display:  144hz 3ms | Mouse:  Corsair M65 Pro |

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Posted · Original PosterOP

uppon closer inspection, i found that the orange and black wire has melted together. so i am probably going to throw away the PSU. not sure if the SAS drive had anything to do with it

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16 minutes ago, unknown001 said:

uppon closer inspection, i found that the orange and black wire has melted together. so i am probably going to throw away the PSU. not sure if the SAS drive had anything to do with it

It was the fact that you tried to use SATA power on a non-SATA device.  I would just get a 2017 CX 550w grey label or pure/system power PSU whichever is cheaper.


Bloodshed and the Fenris-Wolf:

| CPU:  Ryzen 3 2200g(buying a 3900x in January for it) | CPU Cooler:  Stock at the moment(have a dark rock pro 4 for that 3900x) | Paste:  Kryonaut | Motherboard:  ASRock x470 Taichi(replacing with a Gigabyte x570 Aorus Elite) | RAM:  G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 | Boot Drives:  Crucial MX500 500 GB M.2-2280+Crucial BX500 120 GB 2.5" SSD | Storage Drives:  Toshiba X300 4 TB 128 MB Cache 3.5" HDD+PNY CS900 240 GB | GPU:  Sapphire Radeon VII 16 GB HBM2 Video Card | Case:  Cooler Master MasterBox MB511 RGB | PSU:  EVGA SuperNOVA G2 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply w/CableMod E-Series Cable Kit (Black/Red) | Case Fans:  2 Corsair SP140 49.49 CFM 140 mm Fans | Displays:  AOC U2879VF 28.0" 3840x2160 60 Hz Monitor+AOC G2460PQU 24.0" 1920x1080 144 Hz Monitor(Replacing with an LG 240 Hz monitor) | Mouse:  Corsair M65 Pro RGB | Keyboard:  Ducky Shine 7 Blackout - MK Exclusive First Release - RGB LED Double Shot PBT Mechanical Keyboard with Silent Red Switches | Mousepad:  Gaya Entertainment Oversized Gaming Mousepad Doom | Audio:  Massdrop x AKG K7XX Audiophile Open-back Headphones+Audio-Technica ATR2500-USB Cardioid Condenser USB Microphone+Kingston HyperX Cloud II 7.1 Channel Headset+iBasso IT01 Dynamic Driver Audiophile In-Ear Monitors/Earbuds (Black)+Pair of Mackie MR624s(came with stands+isolation pads) | OSes:  Windows 10 Pro+openSUSE Tumbleweed |



VashTheStampede(ROG Zephyrus M GU502):

| CPU:  i7-9750h | RAM:  32GB Dual Channel 2666mhz CL 19(Stock+Samsung 16GB DDR4 PC4-21300, 2666MHZ, 260 PIN SODIMM, 1.2V, CL 19 ) | Storage:  1TB SSD with Optane | GPU:  Nvidia RTX 2060 | Display:  144hz 3ms | Mouse:  Corsair M65 Pro |

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2 hours ago, unknown001 said:

uppon closer inspection, i found that the orange and black wire has melted together. so i am probably going to throw away the PSU. not sure if the SAS drive had anything to do with it

Orange is 3.3v , black is ground ... if they melted together, there's a high chance that the power supply detected this short circuit and simply shut itself down to protect itself.

If you break those two wires apart and insulate them and unplug the power supply from the mains for a minute or so and then plug again, there's a high chance the power supply will run without any problems.

 

You can check if the power supply functions properly with a multimeter and a short piece of wire or a paper clip.

Disconnect all connectors of the power supply from computer components, then look at the 24 pin connector and use a metal paper clip or a piece of wire to create a connection between the PS-ON "pin" (hole) and any GND / COM pin (black wires, com is short for Common, or return wire, ground).

 

image.png.142edc24b951999c26e62c7041c4e6d0.png

 

Basically, as you have the connector in your hands with the clip towards you, the 3rd and 4th holes from the top of the connector, COM and PS-ON

When you create a short with a wire or a paper clip, that tells the power supply to start and send power through all connectors.

Now you can use a multimeter to measure the voltages the power supply outputs.

Set the meter on DC voltage, if it's manual range set it to 20v or higher, put the black lead on any of the COM holes and then measure 3.3v , 5v and 12v by placing the other probe on the orange (3.3v) , red (5v) and 12v (yellow).  If you want to, also measure the 5v SB (purple)

There's no point measuring the -12v (blue), it's not important (practically not used in computers), and often you'll measure -8 or -10v and that's still considered good enough.

 

If you get 3.3v or around that value (like, 3.15v to 3.4v would be acceptable), the power supply works and it shouldn't be any risk to continue to use it.

 

 

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