Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...
amabe1996

Inwin A1 600W 80 Plus Bronze certified

4 minutes ago, BigRom said:

Here's a guy who had the same PSU and he seems to think its garbage, but the case itself nice.

That guy was running a 1080ti, the 2070 is not as power hungry

 

In win are a reasonably well regarded company and i'm sure the power supply they put in there case is fine if used correctly. but if you are worried about the psu i would suggest a different case, a good chunk of the cost of the a1 is for the psu. silverstone have some great mini itx options.

Recommended Posts

Posted · Original PosterOP

So I'm planning to buy a new PC mostly using it for gaming and Adobe Premier pro CC and After Effects.

I was kinda thinking that I would go for a mini ITX case, small but powerful.

Here's my Ideal specs for my New PC:

AMD ryzen 7 2700x

16GB ram 8x2 3200mhz

Gigabyte rtx 2070

Case: Inwin A1 with 600W psu.


Question: Is the PSU good enough for my system and if you this case is it worth it? If removing the PSU is it easy to uninstall? What kind of PSU would I need to purchase.

Any comment would really appreciate it.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Original PosterOP
1 minute ago, SuperCloneRanger said:

According this PSU calculator(with 1 ssd, 1 hdd, 2 fans and gpu at 1740mhz) your max load should be around 474w, so as long as you don't overclock 600w should be fine.

Thank you for that feedback, but how about the PSU itself do you happen to have an idea of the quality? I've checked some reviews, some of them have encountered faulty PSU. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
15 minutes ago, amabe1996 said:

Thank you for that feedback, but how about the PSU itself do you happen to have an idea of the quality? I've checked some reviews, some of them have encountered faulty PSU. 

Here's a guy who had the same PSU and he seems to think its garbage, but the case itself nice.

 

In terms of PSU wattage, you'd be fine even with a 550W one

Spoiler
Component Estimated Wattage
Total: 304W
AMD - Ryzen 7 2700X 3.7 GHz 8-Core Processor 13W - 105W
G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory 14W
Gigabyte - GeForce RTX 2070 8 GB GAMING OC Video Card 46W - 185W

 


CPU: AMD Ryzen 3 2200G@3.8Ghz  Heatsink: AMD Wraith GPU: Zotac GTX 1060 Mini 6GB RAM: Corsair DDR4 1x8GB 2866Mhz Mobo: ASRock B450M-Pro4  Case: Cooler Master Elite 361 PSU: Superflower Leadex Silver 600W

Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Original PosterOP
4 minutes ago, BigRom said:

Here's a guy who had the same PSU and he seems to think its garbage, but the case itself nice.

 

In terms of PSU wattage, you'd be fine even with a 550W one

  Hide contents
Component Estimated Wattage
Total: 304W
AMD - Ryzen 7 2700X 3.7 GHz 8-Core Processor 13W - 105W
G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory 14W
Gigabyte - GeForce RTX 2070 8 GB GAMING OC Video Card 46W - 185W

 


Yeah that's the part where I actually thinking if it's a good idea. I'm just concerned that if I purchase a different SF PSU i'ts going to take another $100 i think.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Best Answer
4 minutes ago, BigRom said:

Here's a guy who had the same PSU and he seems to think its garbage, but the case itself nice.

That guy was running a 1080ti, the 2070 is not as power hungry

 

In win are a reasonably well regarded company and i'm sure the power supply they put in there case is fine if used correctly. but if you are worried about the psu i would suggest a different case, a good chunk of the cost of the a1 is for the psu. silverstone have some great mini itx options.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Original PosterOP
7 minutes ago, SuperCloneRanger said:

That guy was running a 1080ti, the 2070 is not as power hungry

 

In win are a reasonably well regarded company and i'm sure the power supply they put in there case is fine if used correctly. but if you are worried about the psu i would suggest a different case, a good chunk of the cost of the a1 is for the psu. silverstone have some great mini itx options.

I'll try my luck with the case first, if it doesn't satisfy me I'll look for a different PSU. but for now I'll try to check with Silverston with there mini ITX cases. Thanks!

Link to post
Share on other sites
7 minutes ago, amabe1996 said:

I'll try my luck with the case first, if it doesn't satisfy me I'll look for a different PSU. but for now I'll try to check with Silverston with there mini ITX cases. Thanks!

I took a look at the options for itx, these cases stood out to me;

 

https://www.raijintek.com/en/products_detail.php?ProductID=90

 

https://www.raijintek.com/en/products_detail.php?ProductID=89

 

https://www.nzxt.com/products/h200-matte-white

 

http://phanteks.com/Enthoo-Evolv-ITX-TemperedGlass.html

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Original PosterOP
7 minutes ago, SuperCloneRanger said:

The Ophion really did stand out, I'm not into NZXT cases but I'll check both Ophion out. Thanks!

Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, SuperCloneRanger said:

According this PSU calculator(with 1 ssd, 1 hdd, 2 fans and gpu at 1740mhz) your max load should be around 474w, so as long as you don't overclock 600w should be fine.

to_all_the_papyton_shippers_by_hakike__g


You have commited three sins: used PSU calculators, relied on the brand name and udged PSU by its wattage. 

InWin is just like any other company – they offer both good and crap products.

It doesn't seem like there is that much of information available on this PSU:

http://www.jonnyguru.com/forums/showthread.php?16174-Can-600w-80plus-bronze-handle-rtx-2080

 


EX build: Liquidfy C+... R.I.P.

Current build:

Meshify C

Ryzen 5 1600x @4.0 GHz/1.4V

Gigabyte X370 Aorus Gaming K7

Corsair Vengeance LPX 2x8 GB @3200 Mhz

Alpenfoehn Brocken 3 Black Edition

Sapphire Vega 56 Pulse

Intel SSD 660p 1TB 

be Quiet! Straight Power 11 750w

Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, SuperCloneRanger said:

According this PSU calculator(with 1 ssd, 1 hdd, 2 fans and gpu at 1740mhz) your max load should be around 474w, so as long as you don't overclock 600w should be fine.

psu calculators... really? the biggest bullshit you can find, never accurate. i could run a 2080 ti and a 9900k with ease on that wattage

 

I'm more afraid of the quality of the psu... give me a couple minutes...


PSU Tier List//Graphics card (cooling) tier list//Build Guide Megathread//Motherboard Tier List//Linux Guide//Build logs///Before troubleshoot//Mark Solved//Off Topic//Community standards

Don't forget to quote or mention me

 

Primary PC:

Spoiler

CPU: I5-8600k  @4.5 ghz  GPU: GTX 1070 ti EVGA SC Gaming   RAM: 8+8 3360 mhz DDR4 Trident Z   MOBO: MSI Gaming Pro Carbon AC   HDD: 1 TB 7200 RPM Seagate Baracudda, 1 TB 5400 RPM Samsung ECOGREEN   SSD: Samsung 860 EVO 500 GB   Soundcard: built in   Case: Cooler Master Masterbox Lite 5 RGB   Screen: Salora 40LED1500

 

Second PC: Cedar mill

Spoiler

CPU: i3-2130   GPU: Intel HD graphics   RAM: 4+2 GB 1333 mhz DDR3    MOBO: HP H series   HDD: 320 GB WD Black 7200 RPM   PSU: HP 250 watt   Soundcard: built in   Case: Sunbeam Quarterback   Screen: IIyama Prolite T2240MTS, Samsung SyncMaster710N

 

Server: CookieVault

Spoiler

CPU: core2dual E8400   GPU: Intel HD graphics   RAM: 2+1+1+1 gb 1333 mhz ddr3   MOBO: HP Q series   HDD: 4x 1tb 5400 RPM Samsung Spinpoint Ecogreen   Soundcard: built in   Case: Compaq 6000 pro mt   Screen: Samsung SyncMaster710n

 

Laptop : Acer TravelMate 8573t

Spoiler

CPU: I3-2330M   GPU: Intel HD graphics   RAM: 8+2 GB 1333 mhz DDR3   MOBO: Acer   SSD: 250 gb mx500 sata   Soundcard: built in   Case: Acer TravelMate 8573t   Screen: TN 768p

 

Game consoles:

Spoiler

PS4 slim glacier white 500 gb, PS4 FTP Special Edition 500 gb, Xbox, 3 DS lites, DSI XL, Gameboy Advanced Color, PS Vita v2, Wii, PS3 500 gb

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

okay, seems to be a double forward dc-dc

 

so comparable to a cxm from what i can find


PSU Tier List//Graphics card (cooling) tier list//Build Guide Megathread//Motherboard Tier List//Linux Guide//Build logs///Before troubleshoot//Mark Solved//Off Topic//Community standards

Don't forget to quote or mention me

 

Primary PC:

Spoiler

CPU: I5-8600k  @4.5 ghz  GPU: GTX 1070 ti EVGA SC Gaming   RAM: 8+8 3360 mhz DDR4 Trident Z   MOBO: MSI Gaming Pro Carbon AC   HDD: 1 TB 7200 RPM Seagate Baracudda, 1 TB 5400 RPM Samsung ECOGREEN   SSD: Samsung 860 EVO 500 GB   Soundcard: built in   Case: Cooler Master Masterbox Lite 5 RGB   Screen: Salora 40LED1500

 

Second PC: Cedar mill

Spoiler

CPU: i3-2130   GPU: Intel HD graphics   RAM: 4+2 GB 1333 mhz DDR3    MOBO: HP H series   HDD: 320 GB WD Black 7200 RPM   PSU: HP 250 watt   Soundcard: built in   Case: Sunbeam Quarterback   Screen: IIyama Prolite T2240MTS, Samsung SyncMaster710N

 

Server: CookieVault

Spoiler

CPU: core2dual E8400   GPU: Intel HD graphics   RAM: 2+1+1+1 gb 1333 mhz ddr3   MOBO: HP Q series   HDD: 4x 1tb 5400 RPM Samsung Spinpoint Ecogreen   Soundcard: built in   Case: Compaq 6000 pro mt   Screen: Samsung SyncMaster710n

 

Laptop : Acer TravelMate 8573t

Spoiler

CPU: I3-2330M   GPU: Intel HD graphics   RAM: 8+2 GB 1333 mhz DDR3   MOBO: Acer   SSD: 250 gb mx500 sata   Soundcard: built in   Case: Acer TravelMate 8573t   Screen: TN 768p

 

Game consoles:

Spoiler

PS4 slim glacier white 500 gb, PS4 FTP Special Edition 500 gb, Xbox, 3 DS lites, DSI XL, Gameboy Advanced Color, PS Vita v2, Wii, PS3 500 gb

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, Quadriplegic said:


You have commited three sins: used PSU calculators, relied on the brand name and udged PSU by its wattage. 

InWin is just like any other company – they offer both good and crap products.

This wu wu bs around power supplies has to stop, its not magic, is electrical engineering.

 

PSU calculators are a good way to get a reasonable estimate of the power a pc will use. because they have to account for all situations, the estimate they give is based on the peak power of all the components combined. this is the correct way to do it, not only does it give you the power you require if you over tax or overclock your system it also puts you in the sweet spot of the efficiency curve. 

 

Although not a guarentee, a brands track record is a great way to determine if a new/unknown product is likely to be good. If a company has a history of making/using products of a reasonable quality the probability that the new/unknown product is also of a reasonable quality is high.

 

Of course a power supplies ratted wattage means something. i hope this is simple enough for you to understand.

udged?

 

Thinking your know something because you can parrot what you read on the internet just makes you look simple and making sweeping statements about a complex topic shows how little you actually know.

 

please see, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dunning–Kruger_effect

7 hours ago, LukeSavenije said:

I'm more afraid of the quality of the psu

This is why people are afraid to get into building. any power supply that conforms to the ATX standard and us/european electrical regulations will be fine, even under gross overload conditions.

Link to post
Share on other sites
26 minutes ago, SuperCloneRanger said:

Thinking your know something because you can parrot what you read on the internet just makes you look simple and making sweeping statements about a complex topic shows how little you actually know.

 

Yeah, that seems to be the case about you


EX build: Liquidfy C+... R.I.P.

Current build:

Meshify C

Ryzen 5 1600x @4.0 GHz/1.4V

Gigabyte X370 Aorus Gaming K7

Corsair Vengeance LPX 2x8 GB @3200 Mhz

Alpenfoehn Brocken 3 Black Edition

Sapphire Vega 56 Pulse

Intel SSD 660p 1TB 

be Quiet! Straight Power 11 750w

Link to post
Share on other sites
57 minutes ago, SuperCloneRanger said:

PSU calculators are a good way to get a reasonable estimate of the power a pc will use. because they have to account for all situations, the estimate they give is based on the peak power of all the components combined. this is the correct way to do it, not only does it give you the power you require if you over tax or overclock your system it also puts you in the sweet spot of the efficiency curve. 

Outervision PSU calculator is known to be inaccurate. It overestimates greatly. Try putting an Athlon 200GE in and see what it calculates. Shows 145W for the CPU alone. That's more than what my i7 6700k consumes. Ridiculous.

What do you think the "sweet spot of the efficiency curve" is exactly?

 

1 hour ago, SuperCloneRanger said:

Although not a guarentee, a brands track record is a great way to determine if a new/unknown product is likely to be good. If a company has a history of making/using products of a reasonable quality the probability that the new/unknown product is also of a reasonable quality is high.

Not at all. You cannot judge a PSU based on its brand. Look at Seasonic which has a high quality unit like the Prime Ultra Titanium but also has junk like the S12ii.
 

 

9 hours ago, amabe1996 said:

AMD ryzen 7 2700x

16GB ram 8x2 3200mhz

Gigabyte rtx 2070


Ryzen 2700x = 105W


RTX2070 Founders Edition = 190W (Up to around 225W for a AIB partner factory overclocked card)


CPU: Intel i7 6700k  | Motherboard: Gigabyte Z170x Gaming 5 | RAM: 2x8GB 3000MHz G.Skill Ripjaws 5 | GPU: Gigabyte Aorus GTX 1080ti | PSU: Corsair RM750x (2018) | Case: BeQuiet SilentBase 800 | Cooler: Corsair H100i AIO | SSD: Samsung 970 Evo 500GB + Samsung 840 500GB | HDD: Seagate Ironwolf 8TB + 2x Seagate Ironwolf 6TB | Monitor: Acer Predator XB271HU + Samsung BX2450

Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry OP. the thread was finished, but people love pointing out when they think you've got something wrong on the internet.

 

56 minutes ago, Spotty said:

Outervision PSU calculator is known to be inaccurate. It overestimates greatly. Try putting an Athlon 200GE in and see what it calculates. Shows 145W for the CPU alone. That's more than what my i7 6700k consumes. Ridiculous.

What do you think the "sweet spot of the efficiency curve" is exactly?

 

If you run the outervision calculator without a cpu and select desktop it gives 110w and i would say that's right. you have to power the motherboard(the chipset, usb, audio, ethernet) I bet the VRM consumes a few watts + a little extra to account for all the things people forget about and to add some healthy margins. it only adds 35w for the cpu(the cpus TDP). Seams pretty accurate to me. and thats the one you singled out as bad. I'd wager most of the PSU manufacturers have done there own internal testing to set there calculators.

 

Peak efficiency for most power supplies is around 40-60% load.

 

2 hours ago, SuperCloneRanger said:

Although not a guarentee, a brands track record is a great way to determine if a new/unknown product is likely to be good. If a company has a history of making/using products of a reasonable quality the probability that the new/unknown product is also of a reasonable quality is high.

1 hour ago, Spotty said:

Not at all. You cannot judge a PSU based on its brand. Look at Seasonic which has a high quality unit like the Prime Ultra Titanium but also has junk like the S12ii.

You need to learn to read, i said likely and the probability. obviously there are no guarantees, but a companies track record should definitely be taken into account when deciding to buy from them. by your logic i should trust or not trust power supplies equally, whether it's from aero cool or seasonic? i bet, all other things being equal, you would choose the seasonic. i know i would. just as a company known for poor supplies should be avoided, a company usually known for high quality supplies should be held in higher regard even if they have had a couple of bad products. not that the s2ii is a bad product, 4.5 stars with 2000 reviews says otherwise.

 

105w cpu

200w gpu

100w mobo

30w mem, hdd, fans

 

435w total

10 hours ago, SuperCloneRanger said:

around 474w

3674951a19ebbb83ae4c4fc9e4e5958cb0d48b25

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
31 minutes ago, SuperCloneRanger said:

You need to learn to read, i said likely and the probability. obviously there are no guarantees, but a companies track record should definitely be taken into account when deciding to buy from them. by your logic i should trust or not trust power supplies equally, whether it's from aero cool or seasonic? i bet, all other things being equal, you would choose the seasonic. i know i would. just as a company known for poor supplies should be avoided, a company usually known for high quality supplies should be held in higher regard even if they have had a couple of bad products. not that the s2ii is a bad product, 4.5 stars with 2000 reviews says otherwise.

Looks like someone seems to have a superiority complex, but seriously, track record means nothing. Every company is capable of releasing crap units, and the simple brand name shouldn't be trusted, model is what counts. Given your example, Seasonic or Aerocool, if I was not a power supply geek, I would just crack out the fancy PSU tier list and see what each model is generally like, and make my choice based on pricing and the tiering on the list.

 

Oh my, we do have a special person here, the S12 is around a decade old, uses a group regulation system that makes voltages go out of specification and lacks OTP and OCP. But sure, good old Kevin, without $10000 measuring equipment is definitely a more trustworthy source of reviews than Aris or the guys on Computerbase. To summarise, consumers know nothing, consumers can only tell if their unit died from "infant mortality" or if it was DoA, consumers also are capable of making negative/positive reviews for arbitrary reasons, some not even related to the PSU itself.

 

Directly quoting a review:

Quote

I haven't commented on ripple and other low-level power characteristics, partly because they're exemplary (par for the course for Seasonic), but also because they're irrelevant. Short of a no-brand $15 tin-box special, just about every PSU on a retail shelf is good enough for a modern system if the wattage is adequate. Computers require less power than they ever have (outside of gaming and overclocking) and motherboard power regulation is better than ever. This FOCUS has no bad behaviors under load, but you could put a $30 Corsair in your system with nary a difference.

Calling performance "low-level", sure mate. These are the reviews we should trust? People dismissing actual performance and relying on brand trust to ensure their unit is not crap.

 

 

lxaMlx8.gif

 

EDIT: Just to show how much you are overestimating (Also 100W for a motherboard, you sure your watch isn't set back 10 years ago?):

 

101952.png.3e2d85aad70755da792b1e70c69d6867.png

The test system is a i7 7820X (stock, but still a higher frequency on a less power efficient node), 4x8GB of RAM, X299 High end motherboard, 1TB SSD, RTX 2070 or other cards. A system that objectively consumes more power, but even then, the power consumption is way less than your "calculations" if you could even call it that. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, SuperCloneRanger said:

PSU calculators are a good way to get a reasonable estimate of the power a pc will use. 

if the psu is a 10 year old piece of crap they're pretty accurate, but in every normal situation, they're known to massively overestimate the wattage. the only reason that they do is because they don't want to be of fault in a worst case scenario

 

@Spotty is one of the best psu people around here, and most things he says can be taken in trust

 

if even Jon Garow says they overestimate, i think you can say by now that you're wrong...


PSU Tier List//Graphics card (cooling) tier list//Build Guide Megathread//Motherboard Tier List//Linux Guide//Build logs///Before troubleshoot//Mark Solved//Off Topic//Community standards

Don't forget to quote or mention me

 

Primary PC:

Spoiler

CPU: I5-8600k  @4.5 ghz  GPU: GTX 1070 ti EVGA SC Gaming   RAM: 8+8 3360 mhz DDR4 Trident Z   MOBO: MSI Gaming Pro Carbon AC   HDD: 1 TB 7200 RPM Seagate Baracudda, 1 TB 5400 RPM Samsung ECOGREEN   SSD: Samsung 860 EVO 500 GB   Soundcard: built in   Case: Cooler Master Masterbox Lite 5 RGB   Screen: Salora 40LED1500

 

Second PC: Cedar mill

Spoiler

CPU: i3-2130   GPU: Intel HD graphics   RAM: 4+2 GB 1333 mhz DDR3    MOBO: HP H series   HDD: 320 GB WD Black 7200 RPM   PSU: HP 250 watt   Soundcard: built in   Case: Sunbeam Quarterback   Screen: IIyama Prolite T2240MTS, Samsung SyncMaster710N

 

Server: CookieVault

Spoiler

CPU: core2dual E8400   GPU: Intel HD graphics   RAM: 2+1+1+1 gb 1333 mhz ddr3   MOBO: HP Q series   HDD: 4x 1tb 5400 RPM Samsung Spinpoint Ecogreen   Soundcard: built in   Case: Compaq 6000 pro mt   Screen: Samsung SyncMaster710n

 

Laptop : Acer TravelMate 8573t

Spoiler

CPU: I3-2330M   GPU: Intel HD graphics   RAM: 8+2 GB 1333 mhz DDR3   MOBO: Acer   SSD: 250 gb mx500 sata   Soundcard: built in   Case: Acer TravelMate 8573t   Screen: TN 768p

 

Game consoles:

Spoiler

PS4 slim glacier white 500 gb, PS4 FTP Special Edition 500 gb, Xbox, 3 DS lites, DSI XL, Gameboy Advanced Color, PS Vita v2, Wii, PS3 500 gb

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, SuperCloneRanger said:

any power supply that conforms to the ATX standard and us/european electrical regulations will be fine, even under gross overload conditions.

 

🙄

Link to post
Share on other sites
37 minutes ago, jonnyGURU said:

🙄

I know, i know. i said it to make a very poor point. a good supply by a competent engineer should be fused though. redacted.

 

have you got any insight on the sort of power a modern atx motherboard can take? I promise its not to win the silly internet fight. i did some looking around but theres not much to go on. i got the TDP's of the modern chipsets, a post about a video that supposedly showed a 40w difference between a low end and high end motherboard and numbers for some older stuff off anandtech. Thanks.

 

 

https://www.anandtech.com/show/2624/debunking-power-supply-myths

 

chipset info;

https://www.anandtech.com/show/12625/amd-second-generation-ryzen-7-2700x-2700-ryzen-5-2600x-2600/6

Link to post
Share on other sites
5 minutes ago, SuperCloneRanger said:

have you got any insight on the sort of power a modern atx motherboard can take?

Lol you just asked JonnyGURU if he has insight into power consumption, wtf

 

I would venture a guess he does


I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k (won) - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Kill Trident Z RGB - Force MP500 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - The venerated Hyper 212 Evo (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G2 650W - Black and green theme, Razer branwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

Linux Proliant ML150 G6:

Xeon X5560 - 24GB ECC DDR3 - MSI GTX 650 - some 7200RPM SATA II thing - Ubuntu (at the moment)

 

Feel free to critique my website. I am but a young entrepreneur.

Link to post
Share on other sites

 

3 minutes ago, fasauceome said:

Lol you just asked JonnyGURU if he has insight into power consumption, wtf

I figured he was the perfect person to ask, can you thin of anyone more qualified?

Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, SuperCloneRanger said:

I figured he was the perfect person to ask, can you thin of anyone more qualified?

not really, he does some good stuff, spotty and i should be around the good road tho

 

@jonnyGURU you agree with me and @Spotty on this one i assume? or did i miss something?


PSU Tier List//Graphics card (cooling) tier list//Build Guide Megathread//Motherboard Tier List//Linux Guide//Build logs///Before troubleshoot//Mark Solved//Off Topic//Community standards

Don't forget to quote or mention me

 

Primary PC:

Spoiler

CPU: I5-8600k  @4.5 ghz  GPU: GTX 1070 ti EVGA SC Gaming   RAM: 8+8 3360 mhz DDR4 Trident Z   MOBO: MSI Gaming Pro Carbon AC   HDD: 1 TB 7200 RPM Seagate Baracudda, 1 TB 5400 RPM Samsung ECOGREEN   SSD: Samsung 860 EVO 500 GB   Soundcard: built in   Case: Cooler Master Masterbox Lite 5 RGB   Screen: Salora 40LED1500

 

Second PC: Cedar mill

Spoiler

CPU: i3-2130   GPU: Intel HD graphics   RAM: 4+2 GB 1333 mhz DDR3    MOBO: HP H series   HDD: 320 GB WD Black 7200 RPM   PSU: HP 250 watt   Soundcard: built in   Case: Sunbeam Quarterback   Screen: IIyama Prolite T2240MTS, Samsung SyncMaster710N

 

Server: CookieVault

Spoiler

CPU: core2dual E8400   GPU: Intel HD graphics   RAM: 2+1+1+1 gb 1333 mhz ddr3   MOBO: HP Q series   HDD: 4x 1tb 5400 RPM Samsung Spinpoint Ecogreen   Soundcard: built in   Case: Compaq 6000 pro mt   Screen: Samsung SyncMaster710n

 

Laptop : Acer TravelMate 8573t

Spoiler

CPU: I3-2330M   GPU: Intel HD graphics   RAM: 8+2 GB 1333 mhz DDR3   MOBO: Acer   SSD: 250 gb mx500 sata   Soundcard: built in   Case: Acer TravelMate 8573t   Screen: TN 768p

 

Game consoles:

Spoiler

PS4 slim glacier white 500 gb, PS4 FTP Special Edition 500 gb, Xbox, 3 DS lites, DSI XL, Gameboy Advanced Color, PS Vita v2, Wii, PS3 500 gb

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
16 minutes ago, SuperCloneRanger said:

have you got any insight on the sort of power a modern atx motherboard can take? I promise its not to win the silly internet fight. i did some looking around but theres not much to go on. i got the TDP's of the modern chipsets, a post about a video that supposedly showed a 40w difference between a low end and high end motherboard and numbers for some older stuff off anandtech. Thanks.

Chipset itself will be less than 10W. You won't really find any reviews for it since it's not something that reviewers test, or can even really practically test, and isn't going to be something that varies from motherboard to motherboard since the chipsets are all provided by Intel/AMD and are not unique to the motherboard manufacturers.

 

You can find power information from the Intel chipset technical specification sheet. Section 10 - Electrical characteristics
https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/docs/chipsets/300-series-chipset-on-package-pch-datasheet-vol-1.html

https://www.intel.com/content/dam/www/public/us/en/documents/datasheets/100-series-chipset-datasheet-vol-1.pdf


Since it's not really practical to go through all the different components of the chipset and work out their voltage and max amperage (most of them in the mA) to figure out the max theoretical load the chipset can draw based off the Intel specifications, it's easier to just go off the TDP - though not ideal way of determining power consumption, it's 'close enough' and when we're talking about <10w total consumption for the PCH it's not going to make any significant difference to overall power consumption of the system. TDP for modern chipsets tend to be between 5-8W, depending on the chipset.
Don't have any spec sheet for the AMD chipsets, but AFAIK they're more or less the same as the Intel chipsets.

Your earlier 100W estimate for the chipset was very far off. If the chipset used 100W then there's absolutely no way that the small passive aluminium heatsink would be able to cool it. You would have people using 240mm AIOs or Noctua NH-D15s to cool their chipset if it was actually consuming 100W. Just think about other parts that consume 100W like an i7 CPU and the cooling that it requires.

That anandtech article you linked to is over 10 years old, and I have absolutely no idea what they measured or how they measured it. If they measured the power through the 24pin connector to the motherboard, then that won't just be the chipset power it will include things like RAM, case fans, USB power to peripherals, PCIe slot power to the graphics card (PCIe devices can draw up to 75W over the PCIe slot through the motherboard - that's why low end graphics cards don't require 6pin/8pin connectors), and so on.


CPU: Intel i7 6700k  | Motherboard: Gigabyte Z170x Gaming 5 | RAM: 2x8GB 3000MHz G.Skill Ripjaws 5 | GPU: Gigabyte Aorus GTX 1080ti | PSU: Corsair RM750x (2018) | Case: BeQuiet SilentBase 800 | Cooler: Corsair H100i AIO | SSD: Samsung 970 Evo 500GB + Samsung 840 500GB | HDD: Seagate Ironwolf 8TB + 2x Seagate Ironwolf 6TB | Monitor: Acer Predator XB271HU + Samsung BX2450

Link to post
Share on other sites
12 hours ago, LukeSavenije said:

okay, seems to be a double forward dc-dc

 

so comparable to a cxm from what i can find

Double Forward? Comparable to CXM?

Where did you find that out? Last I checked there weren't any reviews or internal shots.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×