First time cooling – 2080ti FTW3 monster build

[OG_Mega]

5 hours ago, Dissitesuxba11s said:

If you want RGB you can get this one from EKWB via Amazon.

ty ty - apparently Watercool fixed the issue and still expecting a delivery tomorrow, but .... time will tell

 

Edit: @Dissitesuxba11s When doing the test boot, I'm going to install (onto the mobo) CPU, RAM, GPU, and connect that to the PSU and test boot from that (keyboard / monitor / mouse) – do you think it's safe to do so, considering the whole thing is liquid cooled and I'm going to test boot without liquid? 

[OG_Mega]

@Dissitesuxba11s – sorry for the follow up note, just got home and was playing with the radiator sizing (slim vs thick). Depending on how much room is necessary, the slim does fit way better. The thick radiator provides almost no room, maybe 1cm (if that). 

 

IMAGES HERE

 

Thoughts on which I should use? Will there be any performance pros/cons using over the other? Thank you !! 

[Dissitesuxba11s]

8 hours ago, OG_Mega said:

Edit: @Dissitesuxba11s When doing the test boot, I'm going to install (onto the mobo) CPU, RAM, GPU, and connect that to the PSU and test boot from that (keyboard / monitor / mouse) – do you think it's safe to do so, considering the whole thing is liquid cooled and I'm going to test boot without liquid? 

Since you won't be putting enough load on the GPU to generate heat you should be fine. Just don't leave it on for too long.

 

55 minutes ago, OG_Mega said:

@Dissitesuxba11s – sorry for the follow up note, just got home and was playing with the radiator sizing (slim vs thick). Depending on how much room is necessary, the slim does fit way better. The thick radiator provides almost no room, maybe 1cm (if that). 

 

IMAGES HERE

 

Thoughts on which I should use? Will there be any performance pros/cons using over the other? Thank you !! 

I had a feeling that would be the case since the 2080TI FTW3 is such a long card. I don't think there is any other choice since those measurements don't take into account the mounting hardware which will move the reservoir by a few centimeters towards the motherboard. If/when you have the reservoir mount, test fit it with the thick rad to see if it is even possible to mount.

 

Another option is to see if it is possible to have the thick rad up top. This would be dependent on the clearance with the motherboard, cables, and the ports from the front rad.

 

Also, do you have four radiators now?

 

FYI, if you edit a post and mention me, it doesn't give me a notification. I'll just monitor this thread for changes.

[OG_Mega]

2 minutes ago, Dissitesuxba11s said:

Since you won't be putting enough load on the GPU to generate heat you should be fine. Just don't leave it on for too long.

 

I had a feeling that would be the case since the 2080TI FTW3 is such a long card. I don't think there is any other choice since those measurements don't take into account the mounting hardware which will move the reservoir by a few centimeters towards the motherboard. If/when you have the reservoir mount, test fit it with the thick rad to see if it is even possible to mount.

 

Another option is to see if it is possible to have the thick rad up top. This would be dependent on the clearance with the motherboard, cables, and the ports from the front rad.

 

Also, do you have four radiators now?

 

FYI, if you edit a post and mention me, it doesn't give me a notification. I'll just monitor this thread for changes.

Whoops my bad! 

 

Unfortunately I don't think the thick one will fit at the top. I think I'll just wind up going the smaller one. There won't be any significant temp variations using the smaller radiator right? It's what we were going with in the first place. /shrug

 

PS: Only 3 radiators, 2 slim 1 thick

[Dissitesuxba11s]

11 minutes ago, OG_Mega said:

Whoops my bad! 

 

Unfortunately I don't think the thick one will fit at the top. I think I'll just wind up going the smaller one. There won't be any significant temp variations using the smaller radiator right? It's what we were going with in the first place. /shrug

 

PS: Only 3 radiators, 2 slim 1 thick

No worries, didn't know that either. 

 

Thicker rads do cool better than slim ones but the drawback is that you would need to spin the fans faster to move air through the thick layers of fins. More surface area length wise impacts performance more that radiator thickness. Since will already have 720mm worth of radiator, I think that is enough to cool all your components.

 

 

[OG_Mega]

48 minutes ago, Dissitesuxba11s said:

No worries, didn't know that either. 

 

Thicker rads do cool better than slim ones but the drawback is that you would need to spin the fans faster to move air through the thick layers of fins. More surface area length wise impacts performance more that radiator thickness. Since will already have 720mm worth of radiator, I think that is enough to cool all your components.

 

 

Thanks! 

 

Yeah I also realized that if I tried to squeeze the thicker radiator that the drain port from the back of the Magic Cube would be indefinitely harder to fit, if it did at all

[OG_Mega]

Hey, so I was watching some Jayztwocents and he made a good point that I completely overlooked ... when I plug the jumper into the PSU, the motherboard won't be getting any power. The pump will be plugged into the motherboard, right? So in that case, how do I run the pump without having power to the motherboard? There's no 3pin connection in the PSU to do that. 

 

Edit: Bought this adapter here, hope it's the right one so that it simply plugs right into the PSU and I can run all my testing, etc. without any problems

[Dissitesuxba11s]

3 hours ago, OG_Mega said:

Hey, so I was watching some Jayztwocents and he made a good point that I completely overlooked ... when I plug the jumper into the PSU, the motherboard won't be getting any power. The pump will be plugged into the motherboard, right? So in that case, how do I run the pump without having power to the motherboard? There's no 3pin connection in the PSU to do that. 

 

Edit: Bought this adapter here, hope it's the right one so that it simply plugs right into the PSU and I can run all my testing, etc. without any problems

Oh, I thought that the jumper you said you got in this comment was the one for the motherboard. You don't really need that jumper since you can just connect the pump directly to the motherboard via fan connector or water pump connector.  The jumper that I thought you got was something like this. It connects to the other end of the 24-pin connector and the PSU thinks that it is connected to the motherboard. You don't really need to get this, you can just jump the PSU with a paper clip as shown in the video below (timestamped):

 

[OG_Mega]

16 minutes ago, Dissitesuxba11s said:

Oh, I thought that the jumper you said you got in this comment was the one for the motherboard. You don't really need that jumper since you can just connect the pump directly to the motherboard via fan connector or water pump connector.  The jumper that I thought you got was something like this. It connects to the other end of the 24-pin connector and the PSU thinks that it is connected to the motherboard. You don't really need to get this, you can just jump the PSU with a paper clip as shown in the video below (timestamped):

 

No, I do have that jumper that makes the PSU think it’s connected to the mobo. What I was missing was an adapter to connect the pump directly to the PSU, not the motherboard. The pump I have uses a 3-pin, not a molex 4 pin. 

 

Problem is that if I am to run the pump without the motherboard, there was no way to do that. So I needed to get an adapter to plug the pump to the PSU

[Dissitesuxba11s]

4 minutes ago, OG_Mega said:

No, I do have that jumper that makes the PSU think it’s connected to the mobo. What I was missing was an adapter to connect the pump directly to the PSU, not the motherboard. The pump I have uses a 3-pin, not a molex 4 pin. 

 

Gotcha. Yea, you would definitely need those for testing just the pump. I thought that your pump was a molex one like mine. I need to remember to get some of those adapters if I decide to make another water cooled build since modern pumps are powered via 12V 3-pin.

[OG_Mega]

11 hours ago, Dissitesuxba11s said:

Gotcha. Yea, you would definitely need those for testing just the pump. I thought that your pump was a molex one like mine. I need to remember to get some of those adapters if I decide to make another water cooled build since modern pumps are powered via 12V 3-pin.

Yeah! Adapter comes tomorrow and CPU block coming today. Ran mayhems blitz part 1 through the radiators overnight so they're good to go, just need to connect fans, etc. to them. When the block comes in need to connect everything to the Mobo and boot to bios and then start building the loop. Won't be able to test pump or anything until Sunday though, and then if all goes according to plan, will run Mayhems Blitz part 2 through the loop overnight on Sunday <24 hours, and on Monday can flush it with water a few times, and then add the X1 clear. 

 

Fingers crossed.. lol. In terms of running the system for normal use, should I dive right into overclocking, or should I give it a week or so to see how it handles normal use? 

[Dissitesuxba11s]

52 minutes ago, OG_Mega said:

In terms of running the system for normal use, should I dive right into overclocking, or should I give it a week or so to see how it handles normal use? 

I would give it a day to see if the temps are normal for stock, and when everything looks normal, overclock that bad boy.

[OG_Mega]

7 hours ago, Dissitesuxba11s said:

I would give it a day to see if the temps are normal for stock, and when everything looks normal, overclock that bad boy.

Thanks! 

 

Starting to put everything together now – one question though, each of the corsair ML120pro fans has 2 cables coming from them, one says "TO RGB HUB" and the other is just a regular 4-pin. Does everything have to be plugged in, or just the TO RGB HUB ones – do you know?

[Dissitesuxba11s]

52 minutes ago, OG_Mega said:

Starting to put everything together now – one question though, each of the corsair ML120pro fans has 2 cables coming from them, one says "TO RGB HUB" and the other is just a regular 4-pin. Does everything have to be plugged in, or just the TO RGB HUB ones – do you know?

The regular 4-pin goes to a fan header on the motherboard (I believe you have  and if you don't plug it in, the fan won't spin. The one for the RGB goes to the hub. See layout below.

 

RGB Connection:

Motherboard <-- Lighting Node Pro <-- RGB Hub <-- 6x Fans

[OG_Mega]

2 hours ago, Dissitesuxba11s said:

The regular 4-pin goes to a fan header on the motherboard (I believe you have  and if you don't plug it in, the fan won't spin. The one for the RGB goes to the hub. See layout below.

 

RGB Connection:

Motherboard <-- Lighting Node Pro <-- RGB Hub <-- 6x Fans

Thanks!! 

 

This is where im at right now: https://imgur.com/a/ETd5teS 

 

i’ll need to connect the rest of the motherboard, SSD’s, etc. tomorrow, and setup the drain valve on the reservoir and test the drain.

 

Then on Sunday I plan to measure and cut all the tubing to finish the build. 

 

Once thats done, going to test leak test the build and then run the mayhems blitz part 2 for 24 hours... (or i can I run blitz part 2 as part of the leak test?) Then I’ll flush the system a few times with DW, and finally add the X1.

 

PS: booted to BIOS today just fine! Only thing I noticed is my memory is 4400mhz and it defaulted to 2100. I’m guessing that I simply need to increase it in BIOS once the comp is up and running, right? 

[Dissitesuxba11s]

10 minutes ago, OG_Mega said:

or i can I run blitz part 2 as part of the leak test?

Just do a quick leak test for like an hour or so then run the Part 2 to save time.

10 minutes ago, OG_Mega said:

PS: booted to BIOS today just fine! Only thing I noticed is my memory is 4400mhz and it defaulted to 2100. I’m guessing that I simply need to increase it in BIOS once the comp is up and running, right?

Yup, most RAM is downclocked at stock and you need to enable XMP in the BIOS to reach the rated speeds.

 

EDIT: I thought you will be orienting the GPU vertically?

[OG_Mega]

18 hours ago, Dissitesuxba11s said:

Just do a quick leak test for like an hour or so then run the Part 2 to save time.

Yup, most RAM is downclocked at stock and you need to enable XMP in the BIOS to reach the rated speeds.

 

EDIT: I thought you will be orienting the GPU vertically?

I got ahead of myself and just kept building, completely forgot about vertical but was thinking about it before I went to bed last night.

Do you think vertical would look better, look cleaner? Or do you think doing tubing for it might get wonky? 

 

Trying to picture it but it’s difficult to visualize. 

 

Started working on tubing this morning before I had to leave, and it’s super painstaking lmao. The drain valve portion is going to be a complete headache because of the way it’s laid out and how to tighten the fitting for it in such a small compartment. 

 

Edit: picture of vertical hydro copper attached, except my coolant will be clear so not sure how it’ll look. Thoughts? 

[Dissitesuxba11s]

3 hours ago, OG_Mega said:

Do you think vertical would look better, look cleaner? Or do you think doing tubing for it might get wonky? 

This might be a bit of a pain the ass, but the best way to compare the port locations is to simply install it in both configurations (vertical and horizontal). Make sure that the ports line up in a straight line. From that picture you attached, vertical does look awesome with the Hydrocopper block, just make sure that you don't plan on adding anything else to the other PCIe slots.

 

3 hours ago, OG_Mega said:

Started working on tubing this morning before I had to leave, and it’s super painstaking lmao. The drain valve portion is going to be a complete headache because of the way it’s laid out and how to tighten the fitting for it in such a small compartment. 

That's hardline tubing for you, a pain in the ass the work with but the results look wonderful. Are you building the drain valve while the case? You can build most of it out of the case until you need to connect the tubes. How hard is it to remove the interior covers so that you can have more room to work with for now?

[OG_Mega]

On 4/20/2019 at 7:21 PM, Dissitesuxba11s said:

This might be a bit of a pain the ass, but the best way to compare the port locations is to simply install it in both configurations (vertical and horizontal). Make sure that the ports line up in a straight line. From that picture you attached, vertical does look awesome with the Hydrocopper block, just make sure that you don't plan on adding anything else to the other PCIe slots.

 

That's hardline tubing for you, a pain in the ass the work with but the results look wonderful. Are you building the drain valve while the case? You can build most of it out of the case until you need to connect the tubes. How hard is it to remove the interior covers so that you can have more room to work with for now?

It’s not really possible Because of how the radiator mounts and which tubes need to be connected first - sucks but I’ll get it. 

 

And yeah I’m using the front case port, so running drain from back out the magic cube and then soft tube to front case so that I can just run a longer tube to fully drain, basically plug and play once it’s set up

 

[OG_Mega]

On 4/19/2019 at 11:38 AM, Dissitesuxba11s said:

I would give it a day to see if the temps are normal for stock, and when everything looks normal, overclock that bad boy.

UPDATE: Loop is up and running, did a leak test for ~2 hours this morning, drained it, and then added Mayhems Blitz Part 2 which I'll run for 24 hours, then I'll drain and flush the system consecutively until the loop is clear, then for the final step I'll add the X1 coolant. 

 

Here's how it looked this morning during my first ever leak test

 

Thanks for everything @Dissitesuxba11s, you're a huge asset to the community and I appreciate all your help! 

 

PS: For the drain valve, I used 3x 90' triple rotaries running from the back of the Magic Cube out the front of the case. Then, in front of the case I have a 90' fitting and then finally the drain valve. It worked out extremely well to be fair, but was so burdensome to figure out and run. Luckily it fit flawlessly after I figured out to simply run the 3 rotaries. 

[Dissitesuxba11s]

4 hours ago, OG_Mega said:

UPDATE: Loop is up and running, did a leak test for ~2 hours this morning, drained it, and then added Mayhems Blitz Part 2 which I'll run for 24 hours, then I'll drain and flush the system consecutively until the loop is clear, then for the final step I'll add the X1 coolant. 

 

Here's how it looked this morning during my first ever leak test

 

Thanks for everything @Dissitesuxba11s, you're a huge asset to the community and I appreciate all your help! 

 

PS: For the drain valve, I used 3x 90' triple rotaries running from the back of the Magic Cube out the front of the case. Then, in front of the case I have a 90' fitting and then finally the drain valve. It worked out extremely well to be fair, but was so burdensome to figure out and run. Luckily it fit flawlessly after I figured out to simply run the 3 rotaries. 

I am so glad that worked out well. You won't believe how big of a smile I had when I saw the GIF; it looks awesome!

 

How well did your drain work? Was it able to drain a good amount of the fluid? I'm curious since that port is meant to be a inlet.

 

[OG_Mega]

13 hours ago, Dissitesuxba11s said:

I am so glad that worked out well. You won't believe how big of a smile I had when I saw the GIF; it looks awesome!

 

How well did your drain work? Was it able to drain a good amount of the fluid? I'm curious since that port is meant to be a inlet.

  

 

The drain is perfect. Honestly, it was the hardest thing in the entire loop to accomplish (took maybe 3 hours if not longer), but I definitely profited the most from it. Weird that it's supposed to be an inlet though considering it's the bottom of the case? 

 

But yea, I basically put a 90' fitting with some soft tubing at the top of the reservoir to fill, and used the drain valve at the bottom to open / close when flushing the system with DW after using Mayhems Blitz Part 2. Flushed it out with ~3 gallons of DW (overkill probably) before finally adding just under <1l of X1 coolant. 

 

Unfortunately for me power is out in my apartment until later today for maintenance, so won't be able to boot it up for the first time until this evening. 

 

 Honestly, not looking forward to plugging in all the little cables to the motherboard, but I don't think there should be too many. I don't recall, but I should follow the motherboard's user guide right, to find out exactly what needs to be plugged in?

[Dissitesuxba11s]

2 hours ago, OG_Mega said:

Weird that it's supposed to be an inlet though considering it's the bottom of the case? 

Sorry, I should have elaborated more. The inlet that I was taking about was for the Magic Cube.

2 hours ago, OG_Mega said:

Flushed it out with ~3 gallons of DW (overkill probably)

That's fine. It doesn't hurt to be sure that all of the Blitz part 2 is out of the system.

2 hours ago, OG_Mega said:

I don't recall, but I should follow the motherboard's user guide right, to find out exactly what needs to be plugged in?

The motherboard guide should tell you what you need to plug in. Of the top of my head, it should be the 24-pin power, EPS (4 or 8 pin) at the top, case I/O in the bottom, USB 3 headers, SATA cables if you have any SATA drives (2.5" SSD or 3.5" HDD), and the fan headers located in multiple parts of the motherboard.

 

For the Corsair Lighting Node Pro, I believe that one needs to be connected to a USB 2 header on the motherboard.

Edited April 23, 2019 by Dissitesuxba11s
Missed a word, and fixed grammar errors.

[OG_Mega]

54 minutes ago, Dissitesuxba11s said:

Sorry, I should have elaborated more. The inlet that I was taking about was for the Magic Cube.

That's fine. It doesn't hurt to be sure that all of the Blitz part 2 is out of the system.

The motherboard guide should tell you what you need to plug in. Of the top of my head, it should be the 24-pin power, EPS (4 or 8 pin) at the top, case I/O in the bottom, USB 3 headers, SATA cables if you have any SATA drives (2.5" SSD or 3.5" HDD), and the fan headers located in multiple parts of the motherboard.

 

For the Corsair Lighting Node Pro, I believe that one needs to connect to a USB 2 header on the motherboard.

Wonderful, thanks so much! 

 

Going to bang it all out tonight so I can finally boot this beast and crush nerds in PUBG. It's been too long XD

[OG_Mega]

Updating with final pictures: https://imgur.com/a/cHxc0yQ

 

Came out amazing!