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porina

Secure Erase SSD, easy right?

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Posted · Original PosterOP

I got an Adata SP550 from a PC I bought used. I thought I'd Secure Erase it before using it in a build which I'm giving away. There's nothing on it I care about, but just to be extra careful since I don't know what was on the drive before I got it myself.

 

Anyway, I download Adata's tool, which has a Secure Erase function. Doesn't work in Win10. Ok, moved it over to a Win7 system. Drive is Frozen. It tells me to hot plug it. Ok... in short, that just made the drive disappear from Windows until I rebooted. I turn on hot-plug mode for that device, and tried again. I tried removing only power cable, only data cable, both, it still remains frozen after re-detection.

 

At this point I'm wondering if it is worth spending more time on. As an alternative, I could create a single large partition on it, and use the Windows defragmenter "optimise" function, which I think TRIMs filesystem level free space on the SSD. The functional difference between this and a proper Secure Erase I think is that it doesn't guarantee I erase any over-provisioning, and there isn't a guarantee when the TRIM is actually performed by the drive, as it may defer it. In essence, it only marks the area as ready to be TRIM'd. Probably would be good enough.

 

Any last suggestions before I give up?


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wtf is "secure erase"

just format it, and do a full drive write, then reformat.


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Agree, worst case scenario, just fill it with crap. EASUS partition master has a "wipe partition" option, where you can enter the amount of times you want the data wiped... don't know how effective it is, but might be worth a shot?  Free Download EaseUS Partition Manager Software for Windows PC, Workstation and Server.


Please quote my post, or put @paddy-stone if you want me to respond to you, I may not see your post otherwise.

 

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Posted · Original PosterOP

If you don't know what Secure Erase is, replying to this thread isn't helping. Writing data onto the drive is possibly the worst way to do it. It would kinda work, but just adds wear. I might as well stick to full drive TRIM in that case which doesn't add the unnecessary wear.

 

Can't be arsed to make a Linux boot drive, and it would almost certainly have the same problem anyway, as the freezing of a drive I understand happens on boot. In searching around, it sounds like some mobo bios has Secure Erase function in it, but I haven't see it in the two systems I looked at so far.


Main rig: Asus Maximus VIII Hero, i7-6700k stock, Noctua D14, G.Skill Ripjaws V 3200 2x8GB, Gigabyte Windforce 980Ti, Corsair HX750i, In Win 303 NVIDIA, Samsung SM951 512GB, WD Blue 1TB, HP LP2475W 1200p wide gamut

Gaming system: Asrock Z370 Pro4, i7-8086k stock, Noctua D15, G.Skill TridentZ 3000C14 2x8GB, Asus 1080 Ti Strix OC, Fractal Edison 550W PSU, Corsair 600C, Optane 900p 280GB, Crucial MX200 1TB, Sandisk 960GB, Acer Predator XB241YU 1440p 144Hz G-sync

Ryzen rig: Asrock B450 ITX, R5 2600, Noctua D9L, Corsair Vengeance LPX 3000 2x4GB, Vega 56, Corsair CX450M, NZXT Manta, Crucial MX300 525GB, Acer RT280K

VR rig: Asus Z170I Pro Gaming, i7-6600k stock, Silverstone TD03-E, Kingston Hyper-X 2666 2x8GB, Zotac 1070 FE, Corsair CX450M, Silverstone SG13, Samsung PM951 256GB, HTC Vive

Gaming laptop: Asus FX503VD, i5-7300HQ, 2x8GB DDR4, GTX 1050, Sandisk 256GB SSD

Total CPU heating: i7-7800X, 2x i7-6700k, i7-6700HQ, i5-6600k, i5-5675C, i5-4570S, i3-8350k, i3-6100, i3-4360, 2x i3-4150T, E5-2683v3, 2x E5-2650, R7 1700, 1600

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