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Jurrunio
By Jurrunio
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Posted

Just saw this in a FB post

 

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52151425_1194654294022583_62854245044117

So it turns out you can melt the solder and break the socket that way....

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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Posted

>775 socket
Am I the only one thinking they were trying to do the tape overclock mod but did the wrong pins or used something conductive and shorted it out and caused a fire or something?
Doesn't look like any burn marks on the PCB though, so that's really weird.

CPU: Intel i7 6700k  | Motherboard: Gigabyte Z170x Gaming 5 | RAM: 2x16GB 3000MHz Corsair Vengeance LPX | GPU: Gigabyte Aorus GTX 1080ti | PSU: Corsair RM750x (2018) | Case: BeQuiet SilentBase 800 | Cooler: Arctic Freezer 34 eSports | SSD: Samsung 970 Evo 500GB + Samsung 840 500GB + Crucial MX500 2TB | Monitor: Acer Predator XB271HU + Samsung BX2450

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  • Author
1 minute ago, Spotty said:

>775 socket
Am I the only one thinking they were trying to do the tape overclock mod but did the wrong pins or used something conductive and shorted it out and caused a fire or something?
Doesn't look like any burn marks on the PCB though, so that's really weird.

I kinda expected the capacitors in the socket to blow if there is indeed a short in the socket

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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Posted

what ever spec it is.. im amazed haha i didn't think something was possible. even part of the chip is just gonee

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Wait but...

There aren't any cores there? Where did the heat come from?

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 10 and Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

How many watts do I need? ATX 3.0 & PCIe 5.0 spec, PSU misconceptions, protections explained, group reg is bad

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Could it be acid that has ate through the plastic of the socket? There's no scorch marks indicating a fire or electrical short. It's just kind of... Dissolved...
I'm really trying to wrap my head around what has happened here.

CPU: Intel i7 6700k  | Motherboard: Gigabyte Z170x Gaming 5 | RAM: 2x16GB 3000MHz Corsair Vengeance LPX | GPU: Gigabyte Aorus GTX 1080ti | PSU: Corsair RM750x (2018) | Case: BeQuiet SilentBase 800 | Cooler: Arctic Freezer 34 eSports | SSD: Samsung 970 Evo 500GB + Samsung 840 500GB + Crucial MX500 2TB | Monitor: Acer Predator XB271HU + Samsung BX2450

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kinda looks to me under magnification that some one took a drill bit to it the roundness to it and the way the pins are pushed aside oround that area not to mention the rest of them flung all over the board

#1:- STRIX X470-F GAMING | Ryzen 7 2700X @ 42.50mhZ | Patriot Viper Steel Series 16gb (2x8) 4000 MHz | MSI RTX 2080 GAMING TRIO | ASUS ROG RYUJIN 240 | NZXT S340 ELITE | 2X 1TB 970 EVO PLUS M.2  +  3 X 1TB FIRECUDA 2.5" HYBRID DRIVES | EVGA SUPER NOVA G3 80+GOLD 1000W | AND ENOUGH RGB TO MAKE YOUR EYES MELT 

#2:- GIGABYTE X470 AORUS ULTRA GAMING | RYZEN 2700X | AURUS 3200MHz | MSI GTX 1060 6GB | CIT BLAZE MID RED-BLACK | STOCK RYZEN RGB AIR COOLER | 2TB WD HDD + 500GB 970 EVO PLUS

#3:- STRIX X470-F GAMING | Ryzen 7 1800X | DOMINATOR LPX 3000MHz | STRIX 970| COOLER MASTER 240 ML | GAME MAX AURORA MID TOWER | CRUCIAL P1 1TB SSD M.2 + FIRECUDA 1TB HYBRID DRIVE

 

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Wat.

¯\_(ツ)_/¯

 

 

Desktop:

Intel Core i7-11700K | Noctua NH-D15S chromax.black | ASUS ROG Strix Z590-E Gaming WiFi  | 32 GB G.SKILL TridentZ 3200 MHz | ASUS TUF Gaming RTX 3080 | 1TB Samsung 980 Pro M.2 PCIe 4.0 SSD | 2TB WD Blue M.2 SATA SSD | Seasonic Focus GX-850 | Fractal Design Meshify C | Windows 10 Pro

 

Laptop:

HP Omen 15 | AMD Ryzen 7 5800H | 16 GB 3200 MHz | Nvidia RTX 3060 | 1 TB WD Black PCIe 3.0 SSD | 512 GB Micron PCIe 3.0 SSD | Windows 11

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This post is from r/techsupportgore and it's a school computer that some kids wanted to see what the CPU looked like so they tried to pull it off but they were pulling on the cooler and didn't take the retention clasp off so they ended up ripping off the socket

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Heatsink stuck/glued on CPU from super old hardened thermal paste(or plain glue), CPU is held down by retention bracket.
Pull hard on heatsink to try and remove it, CPU rips out along with retention bracket from the motherboard. Once it's out, use a flat screwdriver and a hammer to separate the heatsink from the CPU and hold it up to the camera.

 

... Is my hypothesis. 

CPU: AMD Ryzen 3700x / GPU: Asus Radeon RX 6750XT OC 12GB / RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 2x8GB DDR4-3200
MOBO: MSI B450m Gaming Plus / NVME: Corsair MP510 240GB / Case: TT Core v21 / PSU: Seasonic 750W / OS: Win 10 Pro

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