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Tristerin

Parts on the way for loop, any advice?

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Posted · Original PosterOP

Have CPU block, GPU block, 2x240mm rads, 1x120mm rad, fittings, pump, res (haven't decided on tubes yet, Ill order from amazon before it all shows up), and fluid mix in transit...some from china so I have 30-50 days till this build is complete. (the price difference for 2x280mm and 1x140mm rads was ridiculous imho... had room for that but couldn't justify the price increase)

 

I know to rinse the radiators, assuming tubing, blocks, res, pump as well - warm soapy water two times, then distilled rinse?

I plan on taking out the computer and basically doing a reverse breadboarding inside the case with just the loop and paper towels as indicators for leak.  Anything advice?

I have the ability to add a fill line outside my case off the reservoir - how full do I fill this?  Ive seen pics with this tube filled and res completely filled and pics of reservoirs with a little bit of space on the top for air to trap?

 

Is this a large loop (going in a Cooler Master HAF XM) as in does it ever make sense to run 2 pumps? 

 

Do multiple reservoirs help with temps as in more liquid to circulate?  (worth doing I mean) I have free 5.25 slot and I saw some res's meant for those spots with windows.

 

Hose clamps, recommendations that aren't some branded expensive piece lol?  Was originally going to do zip ties (see below) lol

 

The problem I have is I wanted to do a cheap loop...then I was went from that to...way exceeding budget a few times over lol.  I shouldn't have started.

 

EDIT- ooo air bubbles - how to get rid of?  I read run pump on high for a day should do it...1 top mount 240mm will be highest object in the loop - so I guess the question would be how to fill..with res outside case and higher and mount res high so not to much extra tubing when finished?

 

 


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Media Center: HP Pro 6300 MT, i5-3470, Sapphire HD 7750 1gb GPU, 8 gb (4x2) Gskill Ripjaws DDR3, Lite On 320w PSU, Stock HP Cooler, 60gb Patriot SSD boot drive, 1tb WD 7200 RPM Mechanical drive, 500gb Toshiba 7200 RPM Mech Drive with Win 7, Rosewill 4x External 1x Internal USB PCI hub, ASUS AC55BT wifi adapter, LG Blu Ray/M-Disc/DVD/CD Player/Burner, LG DVD/CD Player/Burner, 3.5" Media Card Reader (about to do a complete overhaul on the HTPC, build post incoming....loop, GPU upgrade etc!)

Micro Form Factor Dell OptiPlex 3040: Dell 0MGK50 A02, i3-6100T, 4gb DDR3 1600, Team Group 120gb SSD, Windows 10 Pro, Logitech K400+

 

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My two cents... 

Run the leak test for as long as possible, I've seen recommendations for 24 hours +

If you're rinsing with warm soapy water, rinse, rinse and rinse again. You can rinse with normal water and do the last one or two with distilled. 

Consider a silver kill coil. There's pros and cons, they're not for everyone. Ultimately for me, biocides eventually break down, quality of biocides in premixed coolant is unknown, silver lasts forever.

Two pumps are always better than one if you have space and money, if nothing else it gives you safe redundancy if one dies. 

Zip ties are perfectly fine with barb fittings, but can be a bastard to remove if you decide to change components. 

Broadly speaking, multiple reservoirs don't have a worthwhile effect on temperatures. 

Leaving a small air bubble in the res is almost always preferable. Some setups work better fully filled, but it can cause an increase in pressure as temperatures rise. There's people on both sides of the argument, but a small air bubble is usually recommended. 

The best way I've found to get air bubbles out of the loop, is physically picking up the whole case, and turning it around a few times, trying to get the air bubbles to rise to the res with gravity. 

This will depend on the shape of the loop. 

 

And last thing, a personal recommendation that's maybe not widely recommended, use "battery water" as coolant, used for old lead car batteries and available in auto shops. Pure enough to use in loops and extremely cheap per litre. 

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Posted · Original PosterOP
30 minutes ago, Sambi7 said:

My two cents... 

Run the leak test for as long as possible, I've seen recommendations for 24 hours +

If you're rinsing with warm soapy water, rinse, rinse and rinse again. You can rinse with normal water and do the last one or two with distilled. 

Consider a silver kill coil. There's pros and cons, they're not for everyone. Ultimately for me, biocides eventually break down, quality of biocides in premixed coolant is unknown, silver lasts forever.

Two pumps are always better than one if you have space and money, if nothing else it gives you safe redundancy if one dies. 

Zip ties are perfectly fine with barb fittings, but can be a bastard to remove if you decide to change components. 

Broadly speaking, multiple reservoirs don't have a worthwhile effect on temperatures. 

Leaving a small air bubble in the res is almost always preferable. Some setups work better fully filled, but it can cause an increase in pressure as temperatures rise. There's people on both sides of the argument, but a small air bubble is usually recommended. 

The best way I've found to get air bubbles out of the loop, is physically picking up the whole case, and turning it around a few times, trying to get the air bubbles to rise to the res with gravity. 

This will depend on the shape of the loop. 

 

And last thing, a personal recommendation that's maybe not widely recommended, use "battery water" as coolant, used for old lead car batteries and available in auto shops. Pure enough to use in loops and extremely cheap per litre. 

All of that makes a ton of sense, appreciate the input!


Space Heater: ASUS M5A99FX PRO r2.0, AMD FX-8350, Sapphire R9 Fury Tri-X Nitro 4gb HBM, 16gb (4x4) Corsair Vengeance DDR3, Corsair HX850 PSU, Corsair H100i GTX 240mm AIO cooler, 500gb Samsung 840 EVO SSD, CoolerMaster HAF XM Case

Ryzen Rig: ASUS B350-PRIME, Ryzen 7 1700, Sapphire R9 Fury Tri-X Nitro 4gb HBM, 16gb (2x8) Patriot Viper DDR4 2133, ANTEC Earthwatts 750w PSU, MasterLiquid Lite 120 AIO cooler in Push/Pull config as rear exhaust, 250gb Samsung 850 Evo SSD, Patriot Burst 240gb SSD, 640gb WD Blue 7200 RPM Mech drive, Rosewill Nautilus 1.0 Case

Media Center: HP Pro 6300 MT, i5-3470, Sapphire HD 7750 1gb GPU, 8 gb (4x2) Gskill Ripjaws DDR3, Lite On 320w PSU, Stock HP Cooler, 60gb Patriot SSD boot drive, 1tb WD 7200 RPM Mechanical drive, 500gb Toshiba 7200 RPM Mech Drive with Win 7, Rosewill 4x External 1x Internal USB PCI hub, ASUS AC55BT wifi adapter, LG Blu Ray/M-Disc/DVD/CD Player/Burner, LG DVD/CD Player/Burner, 3.5" Media Card Reader (about to do a complete overhaul on the HTPC, build post incoming....loop, GPU upgrade etc!)

Micro Form Factor Dell OptiPlex 3040: Dell 0MGK50 A02, i3-6100T, 4gb DDR3 1600, Team Group 120gb SSD, Windows 10 Pro, Logitech K400+

 

A couple laptops and tablets around the house

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Posted · Original PosterOP
1 hour ago, Sambi7 said:

Is the coolant you're using coloured? 

Nope, don't want dye issues with tubes - and haven't selected tubes yet either.  My case doesn't have a sidewindow and I don't RGB ;)


Space Heater: ASUS M5A99FX PRO r2.0, AMD FX-8350, Sapphire R9 Fury Tri-X Nitro 4gb HBM, 16gb (4x4) Corsair Vengeance DDR3, Corsair HX850 PSU, Corsair H100i GTX 240mm AIO cooler, 500gb Samsung 840 EVO SSD, CoolerMaster HAF XM Case

Ryzen Rig: ASUS B350-PRIME, Ryzen 7 1700, Sapphire R9 Fury Tri-X Nitro 4gb HBM, 16gb (2x8) Patriot Viper DDR4 2133, ANTEC Earthwatts 750w PSU, MasterLiquid Lite 120 AIO cooler in Push/Pull config as rear exhaust, 250gb Samsung 850 Evo SSD, Patriot Burst 240gb SSD, 640gb WD Blue 7200 RPM Mech drive, Rosewill Nautilus 1.0 Case

Media Center: HP Pro 6300 MT, i5-3470, Sapphire HD 7750 1gb GPU, 8 gb (4x2) Gskill Ripjaws DDR3, Lite On 320w PSU, Stock HP Cooler, 60gb Patriot SSD boot drive, 1tb WD 7200 RPM Mechanical drive, 500gb Toshiba 7200 RPM Mech Drive with Win 7, Rosewill 4x External 1x Internal USB PCI hub, ASUS AC55BT wifi adapter, LG Blu Ray/M-Disc/DVD/CD Player/Burner, LG DVD/CD Player/Burner, 3.5" Media Card Reader (about to do a complete overhaul on the HTPC, build post incoming....loop, GPU upgrade etc!)

Micro Form Factor Dell OptiPlex 3040: Dell 0MGK50 A02, i3-6100T, 4gb DDR3 1600, Team Group 120gb SSD, Windows 10 Pro, Logitech K400+

 

A couple laptops and tablets around the house

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4 hours ago, Tristerin said:

-

Multiple reservoirs have no functional purpose.

 

2 pumps in series can be helpful but is often not required for standard loops using good quality pumps. Only if you have a real stinker of a pump and/or an incredibly restrictive loop, is it worth even considering. (and if the pump is a stinker, instead of having 2 stinkers, better have 1 decent one).

 

I personally wouldn't use soapy water to rinse new components, hot tap water followed by water is my go to for new components. Soap could do not so great things for O-rings (since they are usually a bit oily) and reserve it for deep maintenance only.

 

Air is never good for any system, so the ideal scenario is to completely fill up the system and have absolutely no air. Keep topping off the liquid until there is literally no bubbles whatsoever. This also prevents coolant degradation in some cases.

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Depending on the parts decides my leak test times. Sometimes I don’t even do it. But being a first build, I’d do half a day. Then actually boot it and put some heat in it. Fresh fluid wouldn’t cause an issue if it were to leak anyway. 

 

I used to do zip ties, but now I only use them if there’s too much angle or pressure on the hose. 

 

Using the correct size fitting and hose, normally you don’t have to use any kind of retention. Which is my preferred way. 

 

You can fill the res as much as you like. Once the system is bled, it’s just for looks at that point. Same with getting more than one. 


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