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AlexTheGreatish

The ULTIMATE Powerhouse Sleeper PC

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On 1/21/2019 at 10:40 PM, AlexTheGreatish said:

Margaret, oh Margaret.  Potentially the build that caused the most stress ever, taking over a month to complete due to every step having loads of strange complications.  But in the end.. oh she's a beauty.

 

Buy a Seasonic Power Supply
On Amazon: http://geni.us/WkwJJt
On Newegg: http://geni.us/YiLV

 

CAD files for those that are interested: https://grabcad.com/library/margaret-the-sleeper-pc-1

 

 

u need try this build this chiller and in this video he shows how to do all work  

 

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On 1/21/2019 at 5:00 PM, Thermosman said:

Also, you were using your router very wrong. While I cant see it very well due to 360p, It looks like you have severe chip welding in the aluminum, and I would advise aganist using double sided tape for workholding. Instead, I would drill holes and use screws to attach the part to the scrap board. When you are cutting a complete piece out, you can either put screws in it to hold it down once it is completely detached, or utilize tabs around the perimeter, a setting available in many CAM programs such as Fusion 360, which can be removed using a saw or angle grinder and filed down to remove the part. Also, remove the plastic protective sheet from the aluminum. Again, I can't tell much about the endmill from the video, but it looks like a ~1/2 inch 2 flute titanium nitride coated high speed steel endmill, which you are getting major chip welding from both on the endmill and on the edge of the slotting. Instead of this, i would go with a 1/4 inch or even an 1/8 inch carbide 1 or 2 flute endmill. To figure your your RPM and feedrate, commonly referred to as "feeds and speeds" there are many calculators online. You should reduce your depth of cut and take multiple passes, as slotting, the operation used here, is the hardest you can push any endmill, and you are going full depth in what appears to be 1/8th inch aluminum sheet. Rather than doing this, you should take several shallow passes which will take longer but will produce a much better cut than full depth slotting, which simply doesn't work in aluminum. The chip welding is caused by heat from friction between the tool and the material, as aluminum is a relatively gummy material. While a flood coolant system isn't practical in this case, an attached airblast system, ideally with an oil mister would greatly improve this.

There is much more information that you can find online about aluminum cutting on routers, there is absolutely no reason to just guess at it.

 

Aluminium and other soft metals have had some success with some coolants and the correct cutting tool. I will followup once I check with my brothers (both are General Machinists and work with these soft metals day in and day out making spot welding equipment for the automotive sector). I don't think that an 1/8 inch depth of cut is that bad, even though it is a slut cut. As was said there are calculations based on the material for every part from machine power (HP/Watts) needed, rpm to run the cutter, the feed rate and depth of cut. And each piece of the puzzle affects the next. I have all those formulas in a box from my college days. I haven't used them personally because I don't work in that field but will see what I can find.

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