Jump to content

The ULTIMATE Powerhouse Sleeper PC

Margaret, oh Margaret.  Potentially the build that caused the most stress ever, taking over a month to complete due to every step having loads of strange complications.  But in the end.. oh she's a beauty.

 

Buy a Seasonic Power Supply
On Amazon: http://geni.us/WkwJJt
On Newegg: http://geni.us/YiLV

 

CAD files for those that are interested: https://grabcad.com/library/margaret-the-sleeper-pc-1

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Complications? Custom? Stress?

 

All seems normal to me! Love the sleeper builds though, will have to check this out when I get home!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

10 minutes ago, AlexTheGreatish said:

Youtube, oh Youtube.  Potentially the premiere that caused the most stress ever, 360p over a ready video. But in the end.. it's a fail.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, Thermosman said:

Isn't this the second video stuck at 360p that they have had?

Wait a day, YouTube has to do some compressing thingie to it, all videos start at 360p and then the other resolutions can be used once YT has them ready. 

Intel HEDT and Server platform enthusiasts: Intel HEDT Xeon/i7 Megathread 

 

Main PC 

CPU: i9 7980XE @4.5GHz/1.22v/-2 AVX offset 

Cooler: EKWB Supremacy Block - custom loop w/360mm +280mm rads 

Motherboard: EVGA X299 Dark 

RAM:4x8GB HyperX Predator DDR4 @3200Mhz CL16 

GPU: Nvidia FE 2060 Super/Corsair HydroX 2070 FE block 

Storage:  1TB MP34 + 1TB 970 Evo + 500GB Atom30 + 250GB 960 Evo 

Optical Drives: LG WH14NS40 

PSU: EVGA 1600W T2 

Case & Fans: Corsair 750D Airflow - 3x Noctua iPPC NF-F12 + 4x Noctua iPPC NF-A14 PWM 

OS: Windows 11

 

Display: LG 27UK650-W (4K 60Hz IPS panel)

Mouse: EVGA X17

Keyboard: Corsair K55 RGB

 

Mobile/Work Devices: 2020 M1 MacBook Air (work computer) - iPhone 13 Pro Max - Apple Watch S3

 

Other Misc Devices: iPod Video (Gen 5.5E, 128GB SD card swap, running Rockbox), Nintendo Switch

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, Zando Bob said:

Wait a day, YouTube has to do some compressing thingie to it, all videos start at 360p and then the other resolutions can be used once YT has them ready. 

Since when was that a thing? I've heard of people unlisting their videos before publishing, but this caused them to get many less views. This has never been a problem on other videos afaik. Additionally, it def wasn't uploaded at 360p, so some type of processing has already occurred.

CPU: Ryzen 1700@3.9ghz; GPU: EVGA 560 Ti 1gb; RAM: 16gb 2x8 Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4-3000; PCPP: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/b3xzzM

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, Thermosman said:

Since when was that a thing? I've heard of people unlisting their videos before publishing, but this caused them to get many less views. This has never been a problem on other videos afaik. Additionally, it def wasn't uploaded at 360p, so some type of processing has already occurred.

I've uploaded videos at 1080p and it took an hour or two for 1080p to be available, when they're first uploaded you can only access 360p, then 480, then 720, and so on. This vid is 19 minutes long so it'll take a bit. 

Intel HEDT and Server platform enthusiasts: Intel HEDT Xeon/i7 Megathread 

 

Main PC 

CPU: i9 7980XE @4.5GHz/1.22v/-2 AVX offset 

Cooler: EKWB Supremacy Block - custom loop w/360mm +280mm rads 

Motherboard: EVGA X299 Dark 

RAM:4x8GB HyperX Predator DDR4 @3200Mhz CL16 

GPU: Nvidia FE 2060 Super/Corsair HydroX 2070 FE block 

Storage:  1TB MP34 + 1TB 970 Evo + 500GB Atom30 + 250GB 960 Evo 

Optical Drives: LG WH14NS40 

PSU: EVGA 1600W T2 

Case & Fans: Corsair 750D Airflow - 3x Noctua iPPC NF-F12 + 4x Noctua iPPC NF-A14 PWM 

OS: Windows 11

 

Display: LG 27UK650-W (4K 60Hz IPS panel)

Mouse: EVGA X17

Keyboard: Corsair K55 RGB

 

Mobile/Work Devices: 2020 M1 MacBook Air (work computer) - iPhone 13 Pro Max - Apple Watch S3

 

Other Misc Devices: iPod Video (Gen 5.5E, 128GB SD card swap, running Rockbox), Nintendo Switch

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, AlexTheGreatish said:

Margaret, oh Margaret.  Potentially the build that caused the most stress ever, taking over a month to complete due to every step having loads of strange complications.  But in the end.. oh she's a beauty.

 

Buy a Seasonic Power Supply
On Amazon: http://geni.us/WkwJJt
On Newegg: http://geni.us/YiLV

 

CAD files for those that are interested: https://grabcad.com/library/margaret-the-sleeper-pc-1

 

 

Nice job.

 

Hope to see you guys modify that Chiller to go subzero when you build it into a case :D

 

CPU: Intel i7 3930k w/OC & EK Supremacy EVO Block | Motherboard: Asus P9x79 Pro  | RAM: G.Skill 4x4 1866 CL9 | PSU: Seasonic Platinum 1000w Corsair RM 750w Gold (2021)|

VDU: Panasonic 42" Plasma | GPU: Gigabyte 1080ti Gaming OC & Barrow Block (RIP)...GTX 980ti | Sound: Asus Xonar D2X - Z5500 -FiiO X3K DAP/DAC - ATH-M50S | Case: Phantek Enthoo Primo White |

Storage: Samsung 850 Pro 1TB SSD + WD Blue 1TB SSD | Cooling: XSPC D5 Photon 270 Res & Pump | 2x XSPC AX240 White Rads | NexXxos Monsta 80x240 Rad P/P | NF-A12x25 fans |

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

55 minutes ago, AlexTheGreatish said:

Margaret, oh Margaret.  Potentially the build that caused the most stress ever, taking over a month to complete due to every step having loads of strange complications.  But in the end.. oh she's a beauty.

 

Buy a Seasonic Power Supply
On Amazon: http://geni.us/WkwJJt
On Newegg: http://geni.us/YiLV

 

CAD files for those that are interested: https://grabcad.com/library/margaret-the-sleeper-pc-1

 

 

Also, you were using your router very wrong. While I cant see it very well due to 360p, It looks like you have severe chip welding in the aluminum, and I would advise aganist using double sided tape for workholding. Instead, I would drill holes and use screws to attach the part to the scrap board. When you are cutting a complete piece out, you can either put screws in it to hold it down once it is completely detached, or utilize tabs around the perimeter, a setting available in many CAM programs such as Fusion 360, which can be removed using a saw or angle grinder and filed down to remove the part. Also, remove the plastic protective sheet from the aluminum. Again, I can't tell much about the endmill from the video, but it looks like a ~1/2 inch 2 flute titanium nitride coated high speed steel endmill, which you are getting major chip welding from both on the endmill and on the edge of the slotting. Instead of this, i would go with a 1/4 inch or even an 1/8 inch carbide 1 or 2 flute endmill. To figure your your RPM and feedrate, commonly referred to as "feeds and speeds" there are many calculators online. You should reduce your depth of cut and take multiple passes, as slotting, the operation used here, is the hardest you can push any endmill, and you are going full depth in what appears to be 1/8th inch aluminum sheet. Rather than doing this, you should take several shallow passes which will take longer but will produce a much better cut than full depth slotting, which simply doesn't work in aluminum. The chip welding is caused by heat from friction between the tool and the material, as aluminum is a relatively gummy material. While a flood coolant system isn't practical in this case, an attached airblast system, ideally with an oil mister would greatly improve this.

There is much more information that you can find online about aluminum cutting on routers, there is absolutely no reason to just guess at it.

 

CPU: Ryzen 1700@3.9ghz; GPU: EVGA 560 Ti 1gb; RAM: 16gb 2x8 Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4-3000; PCPP: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/b3xzzM

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, AlexTheGreatish said:

Margaret, oh Margaret.  Potentially the build that caused the most stress ever, taking over a month to complete due to every step having loads of strange complications.  But in the end.. oh she's a beauty.

 

Buy a Seasonic Power Supply
On Amazon: http://geni.us/WkwJJt
On Newegg: http://geni.us/YiLV

 

CAD files for those that are interested: https://grabcad.com/library/margaret-the-sleeper-pc-1

 

 

I think I know the perfect case for a sleeper with that water chiller.

The Compaq prolliant 3000/5500 had a version with wheels, that was enough for that chiller, and maybe that new Asus extreme mobo. 

6242009110254AM5227CompaqProliant_5500_Server.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Like I said in the comments on FP - maybe should've tried a fully rotary double 45 instead of a 90 fitting between CPU and GPU, it could give you the necessary angle to...well, not do what you had to do ?

CPU: i7 6950X  |  Motherboard: Asus Rampage V ed. 10  |  RAM: 32 GB Corsair Dominator Platinum Special Edition 3200 MHz (CL14)  |  GPUs: 2x Asus GTX 1080ti SLI 

Storage: Samsung 960 EVO 1 TB M.2 NVME  |  PSU: In Win SIV 1065W 

Cooling: Custom LC 2 x 360mm EK Radiators | EK D5 Pump | EK 250 Reservoir | EK RVE10 Monoblock | EK GPU Blocks & Backplates | Alphacool Fittings & Connectors | Alphacool Glass Tubing

Case: In Win Tou 2.0  |  Display: Alienware AW3418DW  |  Sound: Woo Audio WA8 Eclipse + Focal Utopia Headphones

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, Thermosman said:

Also, you were using your router very wrong. While I cant see it very well due to 360p, It looks like you have severe chip welding in the aluminum, and I would advise aganist using double sided tape for workholding. Instead, I would drill holes and use screws to attach the part to the scrap board. When you are cutting a complete piece out, you can either put screws in it to hold it down once it is completely detached, or utilize tabs around the perimeter, a setting available in many CAM programs such as Fusion 360, which can be removed using a saw or angle grinder and filed down to remove the part. Also, remove the plastic protective sheet from the aluminum. Again, I can't tell much about the endmill from the video, but it looks like a ~1/2 inch 2 flute titanium nitride coated high speed steel endmill, which you are getting major chip welding from both on the endmill and on the edge of the slotting. Instead of this, i would go with a 1/4 inch or even an 1/8 inch carbide 1 or 2 flute endmill. To figure your your RPM and feedrate, commonly referred to as "feeds and speeds" there are many calculators online. You should reduce your depth of cut and take multiple passes, as slotting, the operation used here, is the hardest you can push any endmill, and you are going full depth in what appears to be 1/8th inch aluminum sheet. Rather than doing this, you should take several shallow passes which will take longer but will produce a much better cut than full depth slotting, which simply doesn't work in aluminum. The chip welding is caused by heat from friction between the tool and the material, as aluminum is a relatively gummy material. While a flood coolant system isn't practical in this case, an attached airblast system, ideally with an oil mister would greatly improve this.

There is much more information that you can find online about aluminum cutting on routers, there is absolutely no reason to just guess at it.

 

I agree with what @Thermosman says. You guys/ @AlexTheGreatish should really do more research into using more heavy duty equipment. These tools are not something that you can just wing and expect good results. I remember Alex asking about a welder and a metal lathe in an earlier video, and if you are to get those, I would STRONGLY recommend talking to a metal shop or someone with experience using heavy-duty equipment (even talking with a local school's metal shop teacher will be better than nothing). If you are to buy more heavy duty machines and not improve the way you handle them/ how much research you do beforehand, someone WILL get seriously hurt. I do not know the safety training that Linus Media has (you seem to be good about hand tools/machines), but there is a big difference between machines that you can hold, and machines that weigh 10 times as much as you. If you have any questions about "maker" related projects, feel free to DM me. I am ecstatic that you guys are doing more projects and really like the videos, it just makes me worry.

/rant

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

49 minutes ago, Thermosman said:

Also, you were using your router very wrong. While I cant see it very well due to 360p, It looks like you have severe chip welding in the aluminum, and I would advise aganist using double sided tape for workholding. Instead, I would drill holes and use screws to attach the part to the scrap board. When you are cutting a complete piece out, you can either put screws in it to hold it down once it is completely detached, or utilize tabs around the perimeter, a setting available in many CAM programs such as Fusion 360, which can be removed using a saw or angle grinder and filed down to remove the part. Also, remove the plastic protective sheet from the aluminum. Again, I can't tell much about the endmill from the video, but it looks like a ~1/2 inch 2 flute titanium nitride coated high speed steel endmill, which you are getting major chip welding from both on the endmill and on the edge of the slotting. Instead of this, i would go with a 1/4 inch or even an 1/8 inch carbide 1 or 2 flute endmill. To figure your your RPM and feedrate, commonly referred to as "feeds and speeds" there are many calculators online. You should reduce your depth of cut and take multiple passes, as slotting, the operation used here, is the hardest you can push any endmill, and you are going full depth in what appears to be 1/8th inch aluminum sheet. Rather than doing this, you should take several shallow passes which will take longer but will produce a much better cut than full depth slotting, which simply doesn't work in aluminum. The chip welding is caused by heat from friction between the tool and the material, as aluminum is a relatively gummy material. While a flood coolant system isn't practical in this case, an attached airblast system, ideally with an oil mister would greatly improve this.

There is much more information that you can find online about aluminum cutting on routers, there is absolutely no reason to just guess at it.

 

Yeah the problem was just the different double sided tape gummed up the endmill and then the chips couldn't get removed. Screws didn't work because the aluminum was getting pulled up off the table while being cut.  Now have a single flute carbide cutter that does wonders along with a FogBuster.  Very aware of speeds/feeds, I did several classes on CAM in university and have a license for GWizard.

13 minutes ago, PhireFase said:

I agree with what @Thermosman says. You guys/ @AlexTheGreatish should really do more research into using more heavy duty equipment. These tools are not something that you can just wing and expect good results. I remember Alex asking about a welder and a metal lathe in an earlier video, and if you are to get those, I would STRONGLY recommend talking to a metal shop or someone with experience using heavy-duty equipment (even talking with a local school's metal shop teacher will be better than nothing). If you are to buy more heavy duty machines and not improve the way you handle them/ how much research you do beforehand, someone WILL get seriously hurt. I do not know the safety training that Linus Media has (you seem to be good about hand tools/machines), but there is a big difference between machines that you can hold, and machines that weigh 10 times as much as you. If you have any questions about "maker" related projects, feel free to DM me. I am ecstatic that you guys are doing more projects and really like the videos, it just makes me worry.

/rant

Believe it or not I've actually done several classes on machining already, this was just some growing pains and not having the right work holding on hand.  We are getting a lathe, but I have spent hundreds of hours on one already with an instructor in the room and don't plan on letting anyone else use it until they have taken a course on proper use.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Gargoyle said:

I think I know the perfect case for a sleeper with that water chiller.

The Compaq prolliant 3000/5500 had a version with wheels, that was enough for that chiller, and maybe that new Asus extreme mobo. 

6242009110254AM5227CompaqProliant_5500_Server.jpg

wow. where I worked back in 2000 had one of these beats. Was using it as a Lotus notes server. 

 

they were not fun to work in and if something died in it, like a RAID controller, the costs to replace were insanity.

 

would make for a cool sleeper though.

Quote

"Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so." - Douglas Adams

System: R9-5950x, ASUS X570-Pro, Nvidia Geforce RTX 2070s. 32GB DDR4 @ 3200mhz.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

LMG needs to do a collab with Uncle Bumblefuck AvE. He's also in BC, and a great guy. 

https://www.youtube.com/user/arduinoversusevil  I'm sure you've heard of him.

 

also:

 REEEEEEEEE WHAT IS A 2990X. THAT'S NOT A REAL SKU RESHOOT VIDEO. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

22 minutes ago, Mandrewoid said:

also:

 REEEEEEEEE WHAT IS A 2990X. THAT'S NOT A REAL SKU RESHOOT VIDEO. 

Ours is actually a pre-production model that says 2990X and I forgot about adding the W haha

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

The point of a "sleeper" is to surprise others in a public setting, like at a drag strip, with a "sleeper" car that embarrasses Hellcats or Demons, or a LAN party. Building a "sleeper" for your house is just putting new guts in an old case, nothing "sleeper" about that.

NOTE: I no longer frequent this site. If you really need help, PM/DM me and my e.mail will alert me. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

I love how at 10:18 someone was walking onto the set and nopes out.

3 hours ago, Thermosman said:

Also, you were using your router very wrong. While I cant see it very well due to 360p, It looks like you have severe chip welding in the aluminum, and I would advise aganist using double sided tape for workholding. Instead, I would drill holes and use screws to attach the part to the scrap board. When you are cutting a complete piece out, you can either put screws in it to hold it down once it is completely detached, or utilize tabs around the perimeter, a setting available in many CAM programs such as Fusion 360, which can be removed using a saw or angle grinder and filed down to remove the part. Also, remove the plastic protective sheet from the aluminum. Again, I can't tell much about the endmill from the video, but it looks like a ~1/2 inch 2 flute titanium nitride coated high speed steel endmill, which you are getting major chip welding from both on the endmill and on the edge of the slotting. Instead of this, i would go with a 1/4 inch or even an 1/8 inch carbide 1 or 2 flute endmill. To figure your your RPM and feedrate, commonly referred to as "feeds and speeds" there are many calculators online. You should reduce your depth of cut and take multiple passes, as slotting, the operation used here, is the hardest you can push any endmill, and you are going full depth in what appears to be 1/8th inch aluminum sheet. Rather than doing this, you should take several shallow passes which will take longer but will produce a much better cut than full depth slotting, which simply doesn't work in aluminum. The chip welding is caused by heat from friction between the tool and the material, as aluminum is a relatively gummy material. While a flood coolant system isn't practical in this case, an attached airblast system, ideally with an oil mister would greatly improve this.

There is much more information that you can find online about aluminum cutting on routers, there is absolutely no reason to just guess at it.

 

Thermosman, you seem quite knowledgeable about routers. Mind if I asked for a link to where I could find more information on them? I am on a robotics team and we have been having hell with getting our router right, it would be fantastic to get help. I know basically nothing about our router besides that it runs on a Raspberry Pi, and that its been having issues. Any pointers towards where I could learn some more would be appreciated.

Who needs fancy graphics and high resolutions when you can get a 60 FPS frame rate on iGPUs?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

5 hours after release and the video is still 360p, this is infuriating.

In search of the future, new tech, and exploring the universe! All under the cover of anonymity!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, Wh0_Am_1 said:

5 hours after release and the video is still 360p, this is infuriating.

No, it's par for the course. Look at the tag line in the video

"LTT, We Don't Know Anything"

 

NOTE: I no longer frequent this site. If you really need help, PM/DM me and my e.mail will alert me. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, DrDerp said:

I love how at 10:18 someone was walking onto the set and nopes out.

Thermosman, you seem quite knowledgeable about routers. Mind if I asked for a link to where I could find more information on them? I am on a robotics team and we have been having hell with getting our router right, it would be fantastic to get help. I know basically nothing about our router besides that it runs on a Raspberry Pi, and that its been having issues. Any pointers towards where I could learn some more would be appreciated.

I'd recommend NYC CNC , CNC Router Parts and CNC Cookbook for general CNC/CAM knowledge.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×