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lavablade02

Windows 10 activation after SSD install without making a phone call

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Posted · Original PosterOP

Their email form is down right now, and my microsoft account says I need to upgrade to a genuine key of windows. I am too introverted to talk to someone on the phone and don't know what do do to get the key to work.

 


i5-8600k, MSI Z370-A Pro, 2x 8GB DDR4-3k, MSI Gaming X 1060, NZXT S340, 2TB HDD, 750w Corsair PSU, AOC 2775 OC'd to 80Hz and CFG73 at 144hz

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That's really strange, windows should automatically activate itself after a reinstall, the only component change that causes issues is the motherboard. If you associated your windows 10 install to a microsoft account here is an easy way:

 

Quote

Run the Activation troubleshooter

If you previously linked your Microsoft account to your digital license, you can use the Activation troubleshooter to help reactivate Windows after a significant hardware change.

This troubleshooter will only be available if your copy of Windows 10 (version 1607 or later) isn’t activated. See Using the Activation troubleshooter. Also, the Activation troubleshooter helps you reactivate Windows only after you add your Microsoft account and link your account to the digital license on your device.

To use the Activation troubleshooter:

  1. Sign in as an Administrator. For more info, see Create a local user or administrator account in Windows 10

  2. Select the Start  button, then select Settings  > Update & Security > Activation, and then select Troubleshoot.

  3. The troubleshooter will show a message that Windows can’t be activated on your device. Select I changed hardware on this device recently, and then select Next.

  4. Enter your connected Microsoft account and password, and then select Sign in. The troubleshooter will only work with the connected Microsoft account.

  5. From the list of devices that are linked to your Microsoft account, select the device that you’re currently using, then select the check box next to This is the device I’m using right now, and then select Activate.

If you don’t see the device you’re using in the list of results, make sure that you signed in using the same Microsoft account you linked to the Windows 10 digital license on your device. Once you confirm that you’re signed in using the same Microsoft account, here are some additional reasons why you can’t reactivate Windows:

  • The edition of Windows on your device doesn’t match the edition of Windows you linked to your digital license.
  • The type of device you’re activating doesn’t match the type of device you linked to your digital license.
  • Windows was never activated on your device.
  • You reached the limit on the number of times you can reactivate Windows on your device. For more info, see Terms of Use.
  • Your device has more than one administrator, and a different administrator already reactivated Windows on your device.
  • Your device is managed by your organization and the option to reactivate Windows isn’t available. For help with reactivation, contact your organization’s support person.

Here is the source with account activation solutions:  https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/20530/windows-10-reactivating-after-hardware-change


Processor: Intel i7 6700 | Motherboard: Gigabyte Z170-HD3 DDR3 | Cooling: Noctua NH-D15

Memory: 16Gb (2x8) Kingston Savage @2400 Mhz DDR3 | Graphics Card: Sapphire Radeon RX 480 Nitro+ 4 Gb VRAM

 Power Supply: Seasonic S12II 620w Bronze | Case: Sharkoon M25-W 7.1
OS SDD: Samsung 850 Evo 120 GB | Gaming SDD: AMD Radeon R3 240 GB

Gaming HDD: TOSHIBA DT01ACA300 3TB | Data HDD 1:Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB 

Data HDD 2: Western Digital WD20EZRZ 2TB | Data HDD 3: Toshiba P300 3TB

 External DVD-RW: LG GP57ES40

Sound Card: Asus Xonar DG SI 7.1 | Headphones: Hyper X Cloud Core | Speakers: F&D 2.1 A111U

Display: LG 34UM58 34" IPS

Peripherals: Redragon Andromeda Rainbow keyboard/STEELSERIES Rival 110 Mouse/Xbox One S Gamepad

OS: Windows 10 Professional 64 bit

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Posted · Original PosterOP
2 hours ago, Strike105X said:

That's really strange, windows should automatically activate itself after a reinstall, the only component change that causes issues is the motherboard. If you associated your windows 10 install to a microsoft account here is an easy way:

 

Here is the source with account activation solutions:  https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/20530/windows-10-reactivating-after-hardware-change

I used an old email. Do you know how to change which one Im using?


i5-8600k, MSI Z370-A Pro, 2x 8GB DDR4-3k, MSI Gaming X 1060, NZXT S340, 2TB HDD, 750w Corsair PSU, AOC 2775 OC'd to 80Hz and CFG73 at 144hz

Comic sans is the worst font

Check out my monitor overclocking guide

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7 minutes ago, lavablade02 said:

I used an old email. Do you know how to change which one Im using?

What exactly do you mean old ? You don't have access to it anymore ? Or by chance this time around you made new microsoft account and you want to revert back to your old email ? If its the latter then go back to using a local account:

 

Quote
  1. Open Settings > Accounts and click Your info.
  2. After confirming that the account is set up to use a Microsoft account, click Sign in with a local account instead.
  3. Enter the password for your Microsoft account to confirm that you're authorized to make the change, and then click Next.
  4. On the Switch To A Local Account page, enter your new local user name and password, along with a password hint, as shown here.
  5. Click Next to sign out from the Microsoft account and sign back in using your new local account.

After signing in go to Settings=>Accounts if your previous Microsoft account is still there then click on it and choose remove, restart, then go back to "Your Info" and chose the option to sign in with a microsoft account instead and use your old email, the one you had windows 10 linked to. 

 

Now there is a simpler way to add and remove accounts but i went with this one to make sure that windows sees your old email as the main account and the one tide to the license of your PC.


Processor: Intel i7 6700 | Motherboard: Gigabyte Z170-HD3 DDR3 | Cooling: Noctua NH-D15

Memory: 16Gb (2x8) Kingston Savage @2400 Mhz DDR3 | Graphics Card: Sapphire Radeon RX 480 Nitro+ 4 Gb VRAM

 Power Supply: Seasonic S12II 620w Bronze | Case: Sharkoon M25-W 7.1
OS SDD: Samsung 850 Evo 120 GB | Gaming SDD: AMD Radeon R3 240 GB

Gaming HDD: TOSHIBA DT01ACA300 3TB | Data HDD 1:Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB 

Data HDD 2: Western Digital WD20EZRZ 2TB | Data HDD 3: Toshiba P300 3TB

 External DVD-RW: LG GP57ES40

Sound Card: Asus Xonar DG SI 7.1 | Headphones: Hyper X Cloud Core | Speakers: F&D 2.1 A111U

Display: LG 34UM58 34" IPS

Peripherals: Redragon Andromeda Rainbow keyboard/STEELSERIES Rival 110 Mouse/Xbox One S Gamepad

OS: Windows 10 Professional 64 bit

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Posted · Original PosterOP
2 hours ago, Strike105X said:

What exactly do you mean old ? You don't have access to it anymore ? Or by chance this time around you made new microsoft account and you want to revert back to your old email ? If its the latter then go back to using a local account:

 

After signing in go to Settings=>Accounts if your previous Microsoft account is still there then click on it and choose remove, restart, then go back to "Your Info" and chose the option to sign in with a microsoft account instead and use your old email, the one you had windows 10 linked to. 

 

Now there is a simpler way to add and remove accounts but i went with this one to make sure that windows sees your old email as the main account and the one tide to the license of your PC.

I was actually wrong about it, but what I meant is that I thought I used the wrong microsoft account. Turns out I have no clue why a desktop with my identical specs was showing up on my microsoft account sync'd up with my 6 year old laptop.


i5-8600k, MSI Z370-A Pro, 2x 8GB DDR4-3k, MSI Gaming X 1060, NZXT S340, 2TB HDD, 750w Corsair PSU, AOC 2775 OC'd to 80Hz and CFG73 at 144hz

Comic sans is the worst font

Check out my monitor overclocking guide

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Just now, lavablade02 said:

I was actually wrong about it, but what I meant is that I thought I used the wrong microsoft account. Turns out I have no clue why a desktop with my identical specs was showing up on my microsoft account sync'd up with my 6 year old laptop.

lol, but by the sound of it you got it sorted right ? 


Processor: Intel i7 6700 | Motherboard: Gigabyte Z170-HD3 DDR3 | Cooling: Noctua NH-D15

Memory: 16Gb (2x8) Kingston Savage @2400 Mhz DDR3 | Graphics Card: Sapphire Radeon RX 480 Nitro+ 4 Gb VRAM

 Power Supply: Seasonic S12II 620w Bronze | Case: Sharkoon M25-W 7.1
OS SDD: Samsung 850 Evo 120 GB | Gaming SDD: AMD Radeon R3 240 GB

Gaming HDD: TOSHIBA DT01ACA300 3TB | Data HDD 1:Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB 

Data HDD 2: Western Digital WD20EZRZ 2TB | Data HDD 3: Toshiba P300 3TB

 External DVD-RW: LG GP57ES40

Sound Card: Asus Xonar DG SI 7.1 | Headphones: Hyper X Cloud Core | Speakers: F&D 2.1 A111U

Display: LG 34UM58 34" IPS

Peripherals: Redragon Andromeda Rainbow keyboard/STEELSERIES Rival 110 Mouse/Xbox One S Gamepad

OS: Windows 10 Professional 64 bit

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Posted · Original PosterOP
2 hours ago, Strike105X said:

lol, but by the sound of it you got it sorted right ? 

Im working on it


i5-8600k, MSI Z370-A Pro, 2x 8GB DDR4-3k, MSI Gaming X 1060, NZXT S340, 2TB HDD, 750w Corsair PSU, AOC 2775 OC'd to 80Hz and CFG73 at 144hz

Comic sans is the worst font

Check out my monitor overclocking guide

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Share on other sites
12 minutes ago, lavablade02 said:

Im working on it

Good luck then, normally you should have no problem deleting the old machine and adding your current one.


Processor: Intel i7 6700 | Motherboard: Gigabyte Z170-HD3 DDR3 | Cooling: Noctua NH-D15

Memory: 16Gb (2x8) Kingston Savage @2400 Mhz DDR3 | Graphics Card: Sapphire Radeon RX 480 Nitro+ 4 Gb VRAM

 Power Supply: Seasonic S12II 620w Bronze | Case: Sharkoon M25-W 7.1
OS SDD: Samsung 850 Evo 120 GB | Gaming SDD: AMD Radeon R3 240 GB

Gaming HDD: TOSHIBA DT01ACA300 3TB | Data HDD 1:Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB 

Data HDD 2: Western Digital WD20EZRZ 2TB | Data HDD 3: Toshiba P300 3TB

 External DVD-RW: LG GP57ES40

Sound Card: Asus Xonar DG SI 7.1 | Headphones: Hyper X Cloud Core | Speakers: F&D 2.1 A111U

Display: LG 34UM58 34" IPS

Peripherals: Redragon Andromeda Rainbow keyboard/STEELSERIES Rival 110 Mouse/Xbox One S Gamepad

OS: Windows 10 Professional 64 bit

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