Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...
Ivan M

Final Verdict - $1500 Gaming PC Secret Shopper pt4

Recommended Posts

Posted · Original PosterOP

In fourth and final episode, we take a closer look at all the machines and finally benchmark them

 

 

Alienware R7: http://geni.us/d5Jj
HP Omen: http://geni.us/Af4t
iBuyPower i5 Configurator: http://geni.us/0BgZ
Origin PC Chronos: http://geni.us/1pEFO
Maingear Vybe: http://geni.us/qI9q4

Link to post
Share on other sites

Final Verdict - Build your own PC


Primary PC:

Spoiler

CPU: Intel® Xeon® X5675 @ 4.62 GHz 1.4V Motherboard: ASUS P6X58-E WS (BCLK: 201 MHz) CPU Cooler: NZXT HAVIK 140 & Noctua NA-SRC10 RAM: Crucial DDR3-1606 8-11-11-28 (2x4GB) GPU: ASUS GeForce® GTX 770 DirectCU II (Core Clock: 1250 MHz, Memory Clock: 3505 MHz) SSD: Samsung 860 EVO 2.5" 1TB (W10 Pro) HDD: WD Green 3.5" 1TB (7.2K RPM) PSU: Corsair AX860i & White CableMod ModFlex™ Cables Case: Fractal Design Meshify C TG (White) Fans: Intake: 1x Dynamic X2 GP-12, Exhaust: 1x Dynamic X2 GP-12 Monitors: LG 24GL650-B 23.6" 1080p 144Hz 300 nit TN FreeSync & Samsung S24D390 23.6" 1080p 60Hz 250 nit PLS (OC'd to 75Hz) Keyboard: Logitech G710+ (Cherry MX Browns) Mouse: Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum Mouse Pad: Steelseries QcK Racing Wheel: Logitech G27 & Six-Speed Shifter Audio: Bose SoundSport In-Ear Headphones (Charcoal) CPU-Z

Primary Laptop:

Spoiler

Model: Apple MacBook Pro 13" 2019 (Silver, Touch Bar, 2x TB3 Ports) CPU: Intel® Core™ i5-8257U @ 1.4 GHz RAM: LPDDR3-2133 (8GB) GPU: Intel® Iris® Plus Graphics 645 SSD: NVME PCIe 256GB Display: 13.3" 2560x1600 60Hz 500 nit IPS Battery: 58.2 Wh dbrand Skins: Trackpad (White Marble) & Palmrest (Hyperblack Titanium) Audio: Apple AirPods Pro

Secondary PC:

Spoiler

CPU: Intel® Core™ i7-950 @ Stock Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-X58A-UD3R CPU Cooler: Corsair H50 RAM: Corsair XMS3 DDR3 (3x2GB) & Crucial Ballistix Sport DDR3 (1x4GB) GPU: HIS Radeon HD 5770 SSD: None HDD: None PSU: HP 500W Unit Case: Corsair 100R

Secondary Laptop:

Spoiler

Model: ASUS ROG G750JW CPU: Intel® Core™ i7-4700HQ @ 3.4 GHz RAM: DDR3-1600 11-11-11-28 (3x4GB) GPU: NVIDIA GeForce® GTX 765M SSD: SanDisk SSD Plus 2.5" 120GB (W10 Pro) HDD: Toshiba 2.5" 750GB (5.4K RPM) Display: 17.3" 1080p 60Hz 350 nit TN Monitor: Dell E2418HN 24" 1080p 60Hz 250 nit IPS Battery: 88 Wh Mouse: Logitech MK235 Audio: Beats Studio3 Wireless (Midnight Black)

Link to post
Share on other sites
Just now, r2724r16 said:

Final Verdict - Build your own PC

Here you see a wild pcmr member in his natural habitat


PSU Tier List 4.0//Motherboard Tier List//Community Standards//Group Regulation//Topologies and Regulations//PSU Protections

Don't forget to quote or mention me

 

Primary PC:

Spoiler

CPU: I5-8600k 5.0ghz

GPU: GTX 1070 ti EVGA SC Gaming

RAM: 2x8 3333 mhz DDR4 Trident Z

MOBO: MSI Gaming Pro Carbon AC

HDD: 1 TB 7200 RPM Seagate Baracudda, 1 TB 5400 RPM Samsung Spinpoint HD103SI

SSD: Samsung 860 EVO 500 GB

Case: Cooler Master Masterbox Lite 5 RGB (modified)

PSU: Seasonic Focus GX650

 

Consoles:

Spoiler

PS4 Slim Glacier White 500 GB

PS4 FTP Special Edition 500 GB

PS3 Super Slim 500 GB

PS2 OG

Xbox OG

DS Lite White

DS Lite Black/blue

DS Lite Blue

DSI XL Orange

Gameboy Advanced Color

PS Vita v2

Wii

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
11 minutes ago, r2724r16 said:

Final Verdict - Build your own PC

Yes, let me just tell my aunt to build her own pc, when she knows nothing about them. She'll save a few quid and have a roarin' time.

(I'd build one for her, but she's on the other side of the coast)

Link to post
Share on other sites

Did the audio shift between bad/good for anyone else near the start of the video?


I edit my posts a lot, Twitter is @LordStreetguru just don't ask PC questions there mostly...
 

Spoiler

 

What is your budget/country for your new PC?

 

what monitor resolution/refresh rate?

 

What games or other software do you need to run?

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
23 minutes ago, Streetguru said:

Did the audio shift between bad/good for anyone else near the start of the video?

I didn't really notice any audio issues, but it has been literally half an hour after the video was released on both Facebook and YouTube and it's still 360p on YouTube (396p for facebook). Oh good guy YouTube.

 

€: 720p is now available, at last *sigh*

€2: 4K, Hallelujah

Edited by Warrie
4K!
Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't know how you are willing to accept a sponsorship from Origin. This is disappointing. Please just go to Maingear instead.

Link to post
Share on other sites
3 minutes ago, Warrie said:

I didn't really notice any audio issues, but it has been literally half an hour after the video was released on both Facebook and YouTube and it's still 360p on YouTube (396p for facebook). Oh good guy YouTube.

That's more than likely why, switched from low bitrate to high mid video I think

LTT CREW! Por que you no mention what a custom PC at the same price would look like?

Or you should have compared what a similair PC would look like at retail, especially for origin


Do Xidax, Falcon Northwest, and Puget next

 


I edit my posts a lot, Twitter is @LordStreetguru just don't ask PC questions there mostly...
 

Spoiler

 

What is your budget/country for your new PC?

 

what monitor resolution/refresh rate?

 

What games or other software do you need to run?

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

My take away is that main gear ran away with this. They may not have provided the fastest machine for the money but the customer support was miles ahead of the companies that beat them on performance. They provided decent value for money hardware wise and won in the important metric of how much of a headache is this going to be for me down the road if I recommend somebody buy a pc from them. The best value for money is usually going to be diy. You go to a system integrator for something that should just work out of the box and for the customer support if it doesn't. Everyone else pretty much failed in that regard. Ibuypower was shockly bad imo and I will no longer recommend them to people even though they provide some of the best bang for the buck hardware wise.

Link to post
Share on other sites

it shocks me how many mistakes were made in terms of where fans are plugged in and bios crap... like damn. 

 

also the Windows install on the Alienware.. oof. 


They/Them :) 

Nokia 7.2 | 128GB | Android

Laptop: Asus ZenBook Pro | Core i5 7200U | HD620 - GTX 950M | 8GB RAM | 250GB + 128GB SSD | Windows 10

Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm really curious to see if any of these companies reach out to Linus for comment.  Really great and original video series


"I genuinely dislike the promulgation of false information, especially to people who are asking for help selecting new parts."

Link to post
Share on other sites

One question I'd like answered is: What PC did Janice think was best?

 

Sure you can argue for specs and whatnot, but its also about what the "n00b" in question would prefer. Which made her feel like she bought a quality product and which had the best support and/or ordering process for people that are not really gamers.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Why were the computers only scored and won based on performance when the whole show included sales and support? This makes no sense, I thought it was about the best experience and product for the average Joe yet it was judged based on experience and PC professional enthusiasts.... 

 

MainGear are the clear winners here, the final outcome is bonkers... I would only recommend MG to any friends or family who don’t give a flying F about getting 90fps instead of 80 in a game they play. 

 

The judging felt like they just took the whole series and threw it away, ignored it, you could just have this video alone and it wouldn’t of mattered...

 

/rant 

Link to post
Share on other sites

are we gonna get that follow up with the reps?

 


CPU: Intel core i7-8086K Case: CORSAIR Crystal 570X RGB CPU Cooler: Corsair Hydro Series H150i PRO RGB Storage: Samsung 960 EVO Series - 1TB PCIe NVMe - M.2 Internal PSU: EVGA 1000 GQ, 80+ GOLD 1000W, Semi Modular GPU: GeForce RTX 2080 GAMING X TRIO RAM: Corsair Dominator Platinum 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4 3200mhz Motherboard: Asus ROG STRIX Z370-E Gaming

Link to post
Share on other sites

Personally I'd very much like to see a heavyweight category of this. Larger budget, Origin vs. Maingear vs. Digital Storm. Impractical and crazy expensive, I know, but hell yeah I'd watch 😉


CPU: i7 6950X  |  Motherboard: Asus Rampage V ed. 10  |  RAM: 32 GB Corsair Dominator Platinum Special Edition 3200 MHz (CL14)  |  GPUs: 2x Asus GTX 1080ti SLI 

Storage: Samsung 960 EVO 1 TB M.2 NVME  |  PSU: In Win SIV 1065W 

Cooling: Custom LC 2 x 360mm EK Radiators | EK D5 Pump | EK 250 Reservoir | EK RVE10 Monoblock | EK GPU Blocks & Backplates | Alphacool Fittings & Connectors | Alphacool Glass Tubing

Case: In Win Tou 2.0  |  Display: Alienware AW3418DW  |  Sound: Woo Audio WA8 Eclipse + Focal Utopia Headphones

Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Hit_and_run_poster said:

why does linus keep reaching down to his waist?

He has a wireless mini keyboard in his pocket, it has a trackpad on it. He scrolls with the track pad to maintain the autoscroll speed on his teleprompter. (as I understand it anyway).

Link to post
Share on other sites

Most AIO pumps are NOT made to be variable speed, and running them at lower voltages can cause damage or completely make them stall.

This is why "pump" headers on newer motherboards exist, they deliver 12V constantly.

If a motherboard has no pump header you need to be very careful plugging the pump into a 3 pin fan header, because the header needs to be set to deliver full 12V and NOT be temperature controlled.

This is why plugging the pump into molex is a better option.

 

Some AIOs like the corsair ones plug directly into sata, so they can run at full speed regardless of what fan header you plug it into or what voltage the fan header is providing, while still providing rpm info through a 3 pin header.

 

Even if the AIO pump fails connected to molex and not the motherboard, the computer will just overheat and shut down.

Same thing would happen if it was plugged into a 3 pin fan header.

There is no special windows notification that alerts you to 0rpm on a fan header, so your PC would still shut down from overheating.

The only advantage is checking the BIOS and seeing the pump rpm at 0 and quickly diagnosing the issue, which could almost just as easily be done by listening for pump noise or seeing the extremely high CPU temps in BIOS.


My sound system costs more than my PC.        Check out my S340 build log "White Heaven"        The "LIGHTCANON" flashlight build log        Project AntiRoll (prototype)        Custom speaker project

Spoiler

Intel i7 4790k | ASUS GTX770 | ASUS Sabertooth Z97 Mark S | Corsair Vengeance Pro 32GB | NZXT S340 | Seasonic Platinum 760 | modded H100i | Ducky ONE White TKL RGB | Logitech MX Master 2S | 2x Samsung 850 Pro 512GB | WD Red 4TB Samsung 58" 4k TV | 2x Behringer NEKKST K8 | BIC Acoustech H-100II | Scarlett 2i4 | 2x AT2020

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
42 minutes ago, Enderman said:

Most AIO pumps are NOT made to be variable speed, and running them at lower voltages can cause damage or completely make them stall.

This is why "pump" headers on newer motherboards exist, they deliver 12V constantly.

If a motherboard has no pump header you need to be very careful plugging the pump into a 3 pin fan header, because the header needs to be set to deliver full 12V and NOT be temperature controlled.

This is why plugging the pump into molex is a better option.

 

Some AIOs like the corsair ones plug directly into sata, so they can run at full speed regardless of what fan header you plug it into or what voltage the fan header is providing, while still providing rpm info through a 3 pin header.

 

Even if the AIO pump fails connected to molex and not the motherboard, the computer will just overheat and shut down.

Same thing would happen if it was plugged into a 3 pin fan header.

There is no special windows notification that alerts you to 0rpm on a fan header, so your PC would still shut down from overheating.

The only advantage is checking the BIOS and seeing the pump rpm at 0 and quickly diagnosing the issue, which could almost just as easily be done by listening for pump noise or seeing the extremely high CPU temps in BIOS.

You do know there is more to computers then just the os right? I had my previous machine throw an error code during post and refuse to boot when I replaced my 120mm case fans with 200mm ones. The rpm they were running at fell below what the default minimum speed setting in the bios was. The bios assumed they had failed and refused to let the machine boot until I went in and lowered the minimum acceptable speed setting.

Link to post
Share on other sites
10 minutes ago, biohazard918 said:

You do know there is more to computers then just the os right? I had my previous machine throw an error code during post and refuse to boot when I replaced my 120mm case fans with 200mm ones. The rpm they were running at fell below what the default minimum speed setting in the bios was. The bios assumed they had failed and refused to let the machine boot until I went in and lowered the minimum acceptable speed setting.

In the video they say that you "won't know if the pump fails" because it's plugged into molex instead of a fan header.

 

Well yeah, you won't know the pump failed regardless of whether it was plugged in to the motherboard or to molex, because the computer will overheat and shut down.

 

So either way you will need to enter BIOS to figure out what is wrong, which will be either seeing the rpm of some fan header at 0 (which is not a really good way of knowing the pump is dead, because most motherboards have many fan headers and not all of them populated, so there are usually many fan headers at 0rpm) or you will see the CPU temperature very high which is a good indication of either a bad mount or a dead pump, which can then be easily determined by listening for pump noise.

 

The only cases where having rpm readout from the pump is useful are:

A) you have a variable speed pump and want to set a specific fan curve

 

B) You have multiple pumps running redundantly as well as some software running to continuously check both pumps are running. This way when one fails the computer doesn't overheat and shut down immediately, and you also get a notification that one of the pumps died.


My sound system costs more than my PC.        Check out my S340 build log "White Heaven"        The "LIGHTCANON" flashlight build log        Project AntiRoll (prototype)        Custom speaker project

Spoiler

Intel i7 4790k | ASUS GTX770 | ASUS Sabertooth Z97 Mark S | Corsair Vengeance Pro 32GB | NZXT S340 | Seasonic Platinum 760 | modded H100i | Ducky ONE White TKL RGB | Logitech MX Master 2S | 2x Samsung 850 Pro 512GB | WD Red 4TB Samsung 58" 4k TV | 2x Behringer NEKKST K8 | BIC Acoustech H-100II | Scarlett 2i4 | 2x AT2020

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×