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80 plus white vs 80 plus bronze

Wanted-x

I just want to the difference between 80 plus white vs 80 plus bronze.

 

Actually, which one is better?    

 

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80 Plus "White" (Otherwise known as "80 Plus") is the lowest (worst) 80+ rating there is. (EDIT: This does NOT mean it's a bad power supply necessarily, there are plenty of PSUs that have NO 80 plus certification. It just means that it's a bit less efficient than other power supplies with better ratings.) 

 

80 Plus bronze is the 2nd lowest, and is generally acceptable. Check out the PSU tier list for PSU recommendations.

 

 

You'll wanna shoot for Tier 5 for a "budget" gaming rig. Tier 6 for a "web browsing and email" machine, and avoid Tier 7.

 

EDIT: Both PSUs you posted are in the tier 5 bracket. The green one will just be very slightly more efficient. 

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You should get the newer CX450/CX550/CX450M with the grey label instead of the older CX500 with the green label.

 

What computer will you be using it for?

CPU: Intel i7 6700k  | Motherboard: Gigabyte Z170x Gaming 5 | RAM: 2x16GB 3000MHz Corsair Vengeance LPX | GPU: Gigabyte Aorus GTX 1080ti | PSU: Corsair RM750x (2018) | Case: BeQuiet SilentBase 800 | Cooler: Arctic Freezer 34 eSports | SSD: Samsung 970 Evo 500GB + Samsung 840 500GB + Crucial MX500 2TB | Monitor: Acer Predator XB271HU + Samsung BX2450

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36 minutes ago, corrado33 said:

You'll wanna shoot for Tier 5 for a "budget" gaming rig. Tier 6 for a "web browsing and email" machine, and avoid Tier 7.

that's so much lower than my standard of tier 3 :P

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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I didn't even know 80 Plus White was a thing...

You learn something new every day I guess.

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6 hours ago, Wanted-x said:

Actually, which one is better?    

Both are not good, get something else...

 

5 hours ago, King Poet said:

I didn't even know 80 Plus White was a thing...

Yeah, sadly it still is.

Though everything that is made and sold right now is crap.

There were some decent 80plus White units back in the day - ~12 Years ago, before Bronze came out.

"Hell is full of good meanings, but Heaven is full of good works"

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10 hours ago, Wanted-x said:

I just want to the difference between 80 plus white vs 80 plus bronze.

80 PLUS is just a rating of efficiency.  i.e. How much AC power is converted to DC power.  Nothing more.

 

https://www.plugloadsolutions.com/80PlusPowerSupplies.aspx

 

10 hours ago, Wanted-x said:

Actually, which one is better?    

 

A1hF.png

That's actually a different question altogether.

 

The CX is much better than the VS.  The CX uses an LLC topology which can handle the high slew power transients of modern, high end graphics cards.  It also uses a DC to DC circuit for the +3.3V and +5V rails.

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1 minute ago, jonnyGURU said:

The CX is much better than the VS.  The CX uses an LLC topology which can handle the high slew power transients of modern, high end graphics cards.  It also uses a DC to DC circuit for the +3.3V and +5V rails.

Is the CX500 the old group regulated one?

:)

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Just now, seon123 said:

Is the CX500 the old group regulated one?

Aha!  You got me there!

 

I failed to notice the OP's CX had the green in the label.  :D

 

So yes.. that particular CX in the OP's post is group regulated.  NOT LLC.  Bur it's been EOL for a while, so it shouldn't be a purchase option for anyone in today's market unless they're buying used.

 

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Yeah its worth the extra money and go bronze due to power efficiency.

I just hope this isnt for some $1000+ gaming rig and you are buying a cheap PSU so you can have money for that nice i9 9900K, that RTX 2080Ti, that fancy RGB memory kit, that high end computer case and fancy high end motherboard with the flashing lights on it.

Might as well fire a bullet or place a pipe bomb into your rig if you cheap out on the PSU just to have fancy parts.

Never cheap out on your power supply, its the most important part of your computer.

If this is for say an office computer or you are replacing that cheap PSU in your HP then fine you are okay.... could be better but you are still okay.

But as lot of people buy these big high powered parts and then turn around and get a 800W no name PSU with no 80+ rating or any real build quality inside.

It never ends well.

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14 hours ago, Spotty said:

You should get the newer CX450/CX550/CX450M with the grey label instead of the older CX500 with the green label.

 

What computer will you be using it for?

CPU :  core i 5 7400
MOBO: gigabyte b250m hd3
HDD : WD 2TB green refurbished 
RAM : Coresair vengeance 8 gb 2400mhz(running at 2133mhz)
GPU : Gigabyte nvidia gfx 1050 ti oc edition 
PSU : ??

what about this one? is it gonna good choice?

Seasonic S12II-520 - https://www.amazon.com/Seasonic-S12II-520-SS-520GB-Capacitor/dp/B00390P1NO

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18 hours ago, Wanted-x said:

what about this one? is it gonna good choice?
Seasonic S12II-520 - https://www.amazon.com/Seasonic-S12II-520-SS-520GB-Capacitor/dp/B00390P1NO

No, its a crap choice because that one is old, loud, not good protection and has other issues as well.

 

There are not many cheaper units that are decent.

This is one of the best for the price:

https://www.amazon.com/quiet-BN607-System-80PLUS-Bronze/dp/B07D2QZ35B/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1544190254&sr=1-3&keywords=System+Power+U9

 

17 hours ago, MadmanRB said:

Dude, why you're recommending an old PSU where the sucessor is already out and CHEAPER than the ancient S12II-Gold one???
Its not even that good to hold up 5 years after release, its at best a mediocre PSU!

And it also gets rather loud under higher load...

 

The name on the Label means nothing!

Its completely irrelevant.

 

If there is a "Timbuktu Technologys Zaboomba 550W", does it make it any better or worse, if its the same as other higher end units??

 

17 hours ago, MadmanRB said:

Far better quality PSU and is not too far off of what the other unit will cost you.

Well, yeah. But from the S12II-Bronze almost everything that is DC-DC is far better.

If its gold, winner.

That's like telling someone that a 2018 Fiat Punto is better than a 1958 Opel Kapitän (Captain)

 

17 hours ago, MadmanRB said:

...wich might even be better than the first one you recommended...

There are better options though:
Bitfenix Formula, Whisper M, Cougar GX-F, be quiet Straight Power 11.

And if you want it cheaper, Pure Power 10 or 11...

 

If you happen to live in Europe and its available: Xilence Performance X.

 

17 hours ago, MadmanRB said:

I recommend these personally as both are good low cost PSU's that allow some headroom and are of decent quality.

And you have a Review proving them to be good??

 

Because even today there are some bad PSU, even from "named Brands"...

"Hell is full of good meanings, but Heaven is full of good works"

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49 minutes ago, Stefan Payne said:

No, its a crap choice because that one is old, loud, not good protection and has other issues as well.

 

There are not many cheaper units that are decent.

This is one of the best for the price:

https://www.amazon.com/quiet-BN607-System-80PLUS-Bronze/dp/B07D2QZ35B/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1544190254&sr=1-3&keywords=System+Power+U9

 

Dude, why you're recommending an old PSU where the sucessor is already out and CHEAPER than the ancient S12II-Gold one???
Its not even that good to hold up 5 years after release, its at best a mediocre PSU!

And it also gets rather loud under higher load...

 

The name on the Label means nothing!

Its completely irrelevant.

 

If there is a "Timbuktu Technologys Zaboomba 550W", does it make it any better or worse, if its the same as other higher end units??

 

Well, yeah. But from the S12II-Bronze almost everything that is DC-DC is far better.

If its gold, winner.

That's like telling someone that a 2018 Fiat Punto is better than a 1958 Opel Kapitän (Captain)

 

...wich might even be better than the first one you recommended...

There are better options though:
Bitfenix Formula, Whisper M, Cougar GX-F, be quiet Straight Power 11.

And if you want it cheaper, Pure Power 10 or 11...

 

If you happen to live in Europe and its available: Xilence Performance X.

 

And you have a Review proving them to be good??

 

Because even today there are some bad PSU, even from "named Brands"...

Uhh I have the Seasonic G Series 650 SSR-650RM and its currently ranked as Class B on the PSU tier list:

 

 

Class B is fine, I mean yes its not Class A or S and not a $1000 PSU but is still suitable according to most charts and reviews I have read on it.

Plus the fact its still tier 2/B even after so long must be good for something (and its possible its got some refinements too since then)

As for pricing well currently the Focus Gold series here is at a good price:

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151202

Tier 1/A so thats a steal, hopefully that price point sticks.

I just recommended mine as i have one and so far so good.

I have not had any issues with sound or power failure yet and i have had it for about three years now.

The fact it only cost me $60 is certainly a boon as i got it on a black Friday.

You dont need a Tier A/1 PSU or a Tier S to have a good PSU, even Tier 3 is acceptable as long as you dont push it too hard.

I mean i know how PSU snobs are, its one thing to grade PSU's and to rank them but to flat out say that anything below a Tier 1/A or Tier S is crap is utterly preposterous as even the highest rankled PSU's can fail and can have RMA rates.

Tier 1/A and Tier S doesnt mean it is a flawless PSU and the only way to get a good PSU is to spend over $100

Sometimes budget does matter and you can still get good PSU's for under $100.

I am not saying get some cheap $30 800W no name PSU and pair it with a 2080Ti and a i9 9900K here.

One can find ratings scales and grades online and read user reviews, the PSU tier list is a guide and a good one.

As long as the PSU ranks high and failure rates are low you should be fine.

 

Now as for my PSU it currently has a 56% positive score on newegg based on a aggregate of 97 reviews.

The low score percentage for it on newegg is 15% which is fair as RMA's and issues happen even with the top tier units.
Amazon scoring is a bit harder to read but at the time of this reply its only got 14 1 star reviews and one or two just seem to be made by idiots rather than reviewers with quotes like:

Quote


Warning: Upon plugging my SSD, HDD, etc on this stupid PSU, it broke all of it.

 

Seems they had no idea how the connectors wiork while reviews like this are more helpful:

Quote

This review is for both the 550W and 650W version.

Fantastic units. I don't think SeaSonic even knows how to make a bad power supply(in fact, a lot of the high quality PSUs from other brands are actually made by SeaSonic and just rebranded). You can look up Johnny Guru's review of both of these power supplies, he's a very knowledgeable tech reviewer that tests, disassembles and inspects literally everything and he's concluded that everything inside these units is high quality and that they meets ATX and 80+ Gold specs, with other pro's like good ripple suppression and voltage regulation. The fan is also very quiet, even with my ear right up against the case where it's located I can barely hear it, quietest fan in my entire rig. Both of my rigs are on 24/7, I do a lot of long gaming sessions(I'm talking 6-10 hours nonstop) and have left one of my rigs Folding @ Home for a few days straight. No issues at all so far.

Now onto why I gave it 4 stars instead of 5. I purchased both this and the 550W version of this series(the 550 first). Both are semi modular, so a few of the cables are built into the unit itself, I knew this up front. The 550W unit has the 24 pin ATX and 4+4 CPU cables attached to the unit. Perfect. The 650W has those, plus a PCIe power with 2 daisy chained 6+2 connectors. I did not want this and don't know why anybody buying a semi-modular PSU would either. Amazon really should put better product descriptions(they also have these listed as "modular" when they are semi-modular). I would have actually bought a different unit entirely for the 650W had I known this, and if I hadn't got such a good deal buying open box while the new unit itself was on sale I would have returned it. I only use 1 GPU and didn't want to have extra cables in my case that I didn't need(which is why I bought a semi-modular unit in the first place), plus it's actually inadvisable to have 2 high end GPU's drawing from a single cable. Life lesson here: do even more research when buying stuff.

However, in the end, they're both fantastic units and I would recommend both, but just be aware that the 650 and up models have additional non-modular cables.

EDIT: 2 and a half months later, the 650 is dead. And Seasonic expects me to pay to ship a heavy package to them to fix their defective product. I would understand if the product was over a year old, but I'm not even at 90 days. That's unacceptable. I don't care what the tech pros say about this brand, I will never purchase anything made by them again.

A personal experience from someone who seems to have had legit issues with the unit.

It certainly is more helpful than "it borke dont buy!"

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On 12/5/2018 at 11:42 PM, Jurrunio said:

that's so much lower than my standard of tier 3 :P

How about is EVGA 750 BQ in tier 3 pp, told me it’s garbage 

My PC:

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600X Processor (4.4Ghz), MOBO: GIGABYTE X470 AORUS Gaming 7 WiFi (AMD Ryzen AM4/ X470/ Intel Wave 2 WiFi/M.2), RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 DRAM 3000MHz C15, GPU: Gigabyte nVidia GeForce GTX 1080 Windforce OC GV-N1080WF3OC-8GD Graphics Cards, STORAGE: 120GB CRUCIAL SSD, 1TB WD BLUE, COOLER: Cooler Master 212 EVO RGB Black Edition, FANS: 4 x MasterFan MF120R RGB (2 Front, 1 Back, 1 Top), 1 x Noctua NF-P12 Redux 1700 RPM(Back off Cooler), PC CASE: Cooler Master MB500 case, PSU: EVGA 750 BQ.

 

My Kids PC:

CPU: AMD Phenom II x4 955 (95watt @3.5Ghz @1.40V), MOBO: ASUS M2A-VM, RAM: Kingston 8GB (4x2GB) DDR2 800MHz, GPU: nVidia GT 710 2GB DDR3 (OC’ed Clock to 1300Mhz and Memory to 950Mhz), STORAGE: 250GB HDD, 500GB HDD, COOLER:  Cooler Master 212 EVO, PC CASE: Cooler Master Q300L , FANS: 3 x upHere RED LED Fans (2 Front, 1 Back), PSU: Generic 300 Watt PSU.

 

Console:  PS4 - vjizzle2384

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Just now, vjizzle2384 said:

How about is EVGA 750 BQ in tier 3 pp, told me it’s garbage 

bad choice for your build, just 550w will power yours with room to spare.

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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1 minute ago, Jurrunio said:

bad choice for your build, just 550w will power yours with room to spare.

How long do you think I see a problem with it in my rig

My PC:

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600X Processor (4.4Ghz), MOBO: GIGABYTE X470 AORUS Gaming 7 WiFi (AMD Ryzen AM4/ X470/ Intel Wave 2 WiFi/M.2), RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 DRAM 3000MHz C15, GPU: Gigabyte nVidia GeForce GTX 1080 Windforce OC GV-N1080WF3OC-8GD Graphics Cards, STORAGE: 120GB CRUCIAL SSD, 1TB WD BLUE, COOLER: Cooler Master 212 EVO RGB Black Edition, FANS: 4 x MasterFan MF120R RGB (2 Front, 1 Back, 1 Top), 1 x Noctua NF-P12 Redux 1700 RPM(Back off Cooler), PC CASE: Cooler Master MB500 case, PSU: EVGA 750 BQ.

 

My Kids PC:

CPU: AMD Phenom II x4 955 (95watt @3.5Ghz @1.40V), MOBO: ASUS M2A-VM, RAM: Kingston 8GB (4x2GB) DDR2 800MHz, GPU: nVidia GT 710 2GB DDR3 (OC’ed Clock to 1300Mhz and Memory to 950Mhz), STORAGE: 250GB HDD, 500GB HDD, COOLER:  Cooler Master 212 EVO, PC CASE: Cooler Master Q300L , FANS: 3 x upHere RED LED Fans (2 Front, 1 Back), PSU: Generic 300 Watt PSU.

 

Console:  PS4 - vjizzle2384

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Just now, vjizzle2384 said:

How long do you think I see a problem with it in my rig

longevity isn't a problem, I just said you bought unused wattage for your money.

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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1 minute ago, Jurrunio said:

longevity isn't a problem, I just said you bought unused wattage for your money.

I got it for 20$ new on Amazon it was on sale 

My PC:

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600X Processor (4.4Ghz), MOBO: GIGABYTE X470 AORUS Gaming 7 WiFi (AMD Ryzen AM4/ X470/ Intel Wave 2 WiFi/M.2), RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 DRAM 3000MHz C15, GPU: Gigabyte nVidia GeForce GTX 1080 Windforce OC GV-N1080WF3OC-8GD Graphics Cards, STORAGE: 120GB CRUCIAL SSD, 1TB WD BLUE, COOLER: Cooler Master 212 EVO RGB Black Edition, FANS: 4 x MasterFan MF120R RGB (2 Front, 1 Back, 1 Top), 1 x Noctua NF-P12 Redux 1700 RPM(Back off Cooler), PC CASE: Cooler Master MB500 case, PSU: EVGA 750 BQ.

 

My Kids PC:

CPU: AMD Phenom II x4 955 (95watt @3.5Ghz @1.40V), MOBO: ASUS M2A-VM, RAM: Kingston 8GB (4x2GB) DDR2 800MHz, GPU: nVidia GT 710 2GB DDR3 (OC’ed Clock to 1300Mhz and Memory to 950Mhz), STORAGE: 250GB HDD, 500GB HDD, COOLER:  Cooler Master 212 EVO, PC CASE: Cooler Master Q300L , FANS: 3 x upHere RED LED Fans (2 Front, 1 Back), PSU: Generic 300 Watt PSU.

 

Console:  PS4 - vjizzle2384

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On 12/7/2018 at 8:35 AM, MadmanRB said:

Uhh I have the Seasonic G Series 650 SSR-650RM and its currently ranked as Class B on the PSU tier list:

 

 

A Seasonic G Series is COMPLETELY DIFFERENT than a S12II.  

 

For you to assume the S12II is good because you have a G Series is like telling someone a Ford Fiesta is good because you have a Ford Mustang.

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Right and I wasnt comparing the two, just offering a better option.

Again looks like the Seasonic Focus is at a good price so there is that :D

 

Not relying on brand here, I just saw the pricing and its PSU tier list standing

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