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Upgrading from x99 to x299, will 1600w be more than plenty?

Kalm_Traveler

With my current HEDT rig, the highest power draw I've seen is about 1050w at the wall, and that actually made the 1000w UPS beep at me. 

 

However, jumping up to x299 with a 7960x and possibly either two RTX 2080 Ti or Titans I'm worried that the 1200w Corsair PSU in there won't be enough and am wondering if i should swap in an AX 1600i instead. 

 

Might need to put this thing on its own circuit... 

HEDT: i9 10980XE @ 4.9 gHz, 64GB @ 3600mHz CL14 G.Skill Trident-Z DDR4, 2x Nvidia Titan RTX NVLink SLI, Corsair AX1600i, Samsung 960 Pro 2TB OS/apps, Samsung 850 EVO 4TB media, LG 38GL950G-B monitor, Drop CTRL keyboard, Decus Respec mouse

Laptop: Razer Blade Pro 2019 9750H model, 32GB @ 3200mHz CL18 G.Skill Ripjaws DDR4, 2x Samsung 960 Pro 1TB RAID0, repasted with Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut
Gaming Rig: i9 9900ks @ 5.2ghz, 32GB @ 4000mHz CL17 G.Skill Trident-Z DDR4, EVGA RTX 2080 Ti Kingpin, Corsair HX1200, Samsung 970 EVO Plus 2TB, Asus PG348Q monitor, Corsair K70 LUX RGB keyboard, Corsair Ironclaw mouse
HTPC: i7 7700 (delidded + LM), 16GB @ 2666mHz CL15 Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4, MSI Geforce GTX 1070 Gaming X, Corsair SFX 600, Samsung 850 Pro 512gb, Samsung Q55R TV, Filco Majestouch Convertible 2 TKL keyboard, Logitech G403 wireless mouse

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7980XE (as far as cooling can handle) goes up to 500w while 2080ti (custom cards I assume) have power limits as high as 350w, so a 1500w or 1600w PSU makes more sense.

 

Expect UPS capable of 2000w

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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25 minutes ago, Jurrunio said:

7980XE (as far as cooling can handle) goes up to 500w while 2080ti (custom cards I assume) have power limits as high as 350w, so a 1500w or 1600w PSU makes more sense.

 

Expect UPS capable of 2000w

Thank you! 

Both Titan Xp cards in there right now are shunt modded so they can pull almost 2x as much as stock, I'll be doing a similar mod on any future cards as well. 

 

As far as a 2000w UPS... I'll need to upgrade the electrical wiring in the wall for that, right? Right now it is on a 15 amp breaker, but i have a spool of romex that is rated for 20 amp so i can semi-easily crawl around in the attic and just replace the existing wiring, then swap the 15A breaker for a 20A, or just put this on its own new breaker. 

 

IIRC a 1600w PSU can basically max out a 15A circuit, right? 

HEDT: i9 10980XE @ 4.9 gHz, 64GB @ 3600mHz CL14 G.Skill Trident-Z DDR4, 2x Nvidia Titan RTX NVLink SLI, Corsair AX1600i, Samsung 960 Pro 2TB OS/apps, Samsung 850 EVO 4TB media, LG 38GL950G-B monitor, Drop CTRL keyboard, Decus Respec mouse

Laptop: Razer Blade Pro 2019 9750H model, 32GB @ 3200mHz CL18 G.Skill Ripjaws DDR4, 2x Samsung 960 Pro 1TB RAID0, repasted with Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut
Gaming Rig: i9 9900ks @ 5.2ghz, 32GB @ 4000mHz CL17 G.Skill Trident-Z DDR4, EVGA RTX 2080 Ti Kingpin, Corsair HX1200, Samsung 970 EVO Plus 2TB, Asus PG348Q monitor, Corsair K70 LUX RGB keyboard, Corsair Ironclaw mouse
HTPC: i7 7700 (delidded + LM), 16GB @ 2666mHz CL15 Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4, MSI Geforce GTX 1070 Gaming X, Corsair SFX 600, Samsung 850 Pro 512gb, Samsung Q55R TV, Filco Majestouch Convertible 2 TKL keyboard, Logitech G403 wireless mouse

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1 minute ago, Kalm_Traveler1 said:

Thank you! 

Both Titan Xp cards in there right now are shunt modded so they can pull almost 2x as much as stock, I'll be doing a similar mod on any future cards as well. 

 

As far as a 2000w UPS... I'll need to upgrade the electrical wiring in the wall for that, right? Right now it is on a 15 amp breaker, but i have a spool of romex that is rated for 20 amp so i can semi-easily crawl around in the attic and just replace the existing wiring, then swap the 15A breaker for a 20A, or just put this on its own new breaker. 

 

IIRC a 1600w PSU can basically max out a 15A circuit, right? 

Not sure about the country you're in, but my country shoves 220V AC to the sockets so no problem for me :P

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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10 minutes ago, Jurrunio said:

Not sure about the country you're in, but my country shoves 220V AC to the sockets so no problem for me :P

USA here, voltage on the current UPS varies between about 119v and 125v depending on time of day and load. 

HEDT: i9 10980XE @ 4.9 gHz, 64GB @ 3600mHz CL14 G.Skill Trident-Z DDR4, 2x Nvidia Titan RTX NVLink SLI, Corsair AX1600i, Samsung 960 Pro 2TB OS/apps, Samsung 850 EVO 4TB media, LG 38GL950G-B monitor, Drop CTRL keyboard, Decus Respec mouse

Laptop: Razer Blade Pro 2019 9750H model, 32GB @ 3200mHz CL18 G.Skill Ripjaws DDR4, 2x Samsung 960 Pro 1TB RAID0, repasted with Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut
Gaming Rig: i9 9900ks @ 5.2ghz, 32GB @ 4000mHz CL17 G.Skill Trident-Z DDR4, EVGA RTX 2080 Ti Kingpin, Corsair HX1200, Samsung 970 EVO Plus 2TB, Asus PG348Q monitor, Corsair K70 LUX RGB keyboard, Corsair Ironclaw mouse
HTPC: i7 7700 (delidded + LM), 16GB @ 2666mHz CL15 Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4, MSI Geforce GTX 1070 Gaming X, Corsair SFX 600, Samsung 850 Pro 512gb, Samsung Q55R TV, Filco Majestouch Convertible 2 TKL keyboard, Logitech G403 wireless mouse

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10 minutes ago, Kalm_Traveler1 said:

USA here, voltage on the current UPS varies between about 119v and 125v depending on time of day and load. 

Then yeah, you will need some wiring work. Even the socket themselves might need thicker wires.

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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2 hours ago, Kalm_Traveler1 said:

However, jumping up to x299 with a 7960x

Why would you do that?!
Why pay 1400€ when you can get a 16 core Threadripper for 560€ (1950x) or 900€ (2950X) and there are 7nm in the Works coming next year...

"Hell is full of good meanings, but Heaven is full of good works"

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5 minutes ago, Stefan Payne said:

Why would you do that?!
Why pay 1400€ when you can get a 16 core Threadripper for 560€ (1950x) or 900€ (2950X) and there are 7nm in the Works coming next year...

Because it meets what I want.

Because this isn't a budget build, none of the Threadripper CPUs meet my wants for this upgrade and I'm ready to retire the 6900k.

If you always wait, there will always be something newer / faster / better / cheaper coming up "soon", so I just get the best I can afford when I am ready to upgrade (unless of course I know that something even better with confirmed specs + benchmarks will be out in the very near future).

HEDT: i9 10980XE @ 4.9 gHz, 64GB @ 3600mHz CL14 G.Skill Trident-Z DDR4, 2x Nvidia Titan RTX NVLink SLI, Corsair AX1600i, Samsung 960 Pro 2TB OS/apps, Samsung 850 EVO 4TB media, LG 38GL950G-B monitor, Drop CTRL keyboard, Decus Respec mouse

Laptop: Razer Blade Pro 2019 9750H model, 32GB @ 3200mHz CL18 G.Skill Ripjaws DDR4, 2x Samsung 960 Pro 1TB RAID0, repasted with Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut
Gaming Rig: i9 9900ks @ 5.2ghz, 32GB @ 4000mHz CL17 G.Skill Trident-Z DDR4, EVGA RTX 2080 Ti Kingpin, Corsair HX1200, Samsung 970 EVO Plus 2TB, Asus PG348Q monitor, Corsair K70 LUX RGB keyboard, Corsair Ironclaw mouse
HTPC: i7 7700 (delidded + LM), 16GB @ 2666mHz CL15 Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4, MSI Geforce GTX 1070 Gaming X, Corsair SFX 600, Samsung 850 Pro 512gb, Samsung Q55R TV, Filco Majestouch Convertible 2 TKL keyboard, Logitech G403 wireless mouse

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2 hours ago, Kalm_Traveler1 said:

Because it meets what I want.

Because this isn't a budget build, none of the Threadripper CPUs meet my wants for this upgrade and I'm ready to retire the 6900k.

Oh yeah, I forgot that you have to support evil corporations on their way to world dominance, especially when their products aren't great.

Totally forgot that you have to support those people...

 

Seems like the World of "Continuum" might get Real...

 

Especially since we're talking about 44 lanes in the Intel CPUs vs. 64 Lanes on the other side...

 

Quote

If you always wait, there will always be something newer / faster / better / cheaper coming up "soon", so I just get the best I can afford when I am ready to upgrade (unless of course I know that something even better with confirmed specs + benchmarks will be out in the very near future).

Problem is that there is a new, big step on the Horizon wich is the switch from 14/16nm towards 7nm, wich Intel isn't able to do any time soon.

But AMD already has 7nm products and is rolling them out right now. AMD Rome is real. And there will be a Threadripper Version of that...

 

And from what it looks like right now is that the clock speed might increase to 5GHz for the top models and power consumption decreased by something like 30-40% as well...

 

So why not risk it and go for the cheaper solution that might turn out to be better?!
You don't have to buy from the same Corporate Overlord every time, do you?

"Hell is full of good meanings, but Heaven is full of good works"

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27 minutes ago, Stefan Payne said:

Oh yeah, I forgot that you have to support evil corporations on their way to world dominance, especially when their products aren't great.

Totally forgot that you have to support those people...

 

Seems like the World of "Continuum" might get Real...

 

Especially since we're talking about 44 lanes in the Intel CPUs vs. 64 Lanes on the other side...

 

Problem is that there is a new, big step on the Horizon wich is the switch from 14/16nm towards 7nm, wich Intel isn't able to do any time soon.

But AMD already has 7nm products and is rolling them out right now. AMD Rome is real. And there will be a Threadripper Version of that...

 

And from what it looks like right now is that the clock speed might increase to 5GHz for the top models and power consumption decreased by something like 30-40% as well...

 

So why not risk it and go for the cheaper solution that might turn out to be better?!
You don't have to buy from the same Corporate Overlord every time, do you?

No clue what you're on about - every corporation is evil to the competition, and greatness is entirely subjective.

 

Again, I don't want what AMD is offering currently so why would I spend any money on it? I don't want 64 PCI-E lanes because 44 is sufficient (TBH 37 is all I need), I don't want slower cores, and I don't want lower IPC. 16 cores is a sufficient increase for my multi-threaded use, and the 7960x will be better for gaming than this old 6900k too so it's 100% an improvement in every use case I will be throwing at it. Nothing AMD sells right now can do that.

 

You're welcome to donate your paychecks and organs to AMD if that makes you feel better, but nobody should spend any money on a product that doesn't meet their goals - value or not.

HEDT: i9 10980XE @ 4.9 gHz, 64GB @ 3600mHz CL14 G.Skill Trident-Z DDR4, 2x Nvidia Titan RTX NVLink SLI, Corsair AX1600i, Samsung 960 Pro 2TB OS/apps, Samsung 850 EVO 4TB media, LG 38GL950G-B monitor, Drop CTRL keyboard, Decus Respec mouse

Laptop: Razer Blade Pro 2019 9750H model, 32GB @ 3200mHz CL18 G.Skill Ripjaws DDR4, 2x Samsung 960 Pro 1TB RAID0, repasted with Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut
Gaming Rig: i9 9900ks @ 5.2ghz, 32GB @ 4000mHz CL17 G.Skill Trident-Z DDR4, EVGA RTX 2080 Ti Kingpin, Corsair HX1200, Samsung 970 EVO Plus 2TB, Asus PG348Q monitor, Corsair K70 LUX RGB keyboard, Corsair Ironclaw mouse
HTPC: i7 7700 (delidded + LM), 16GB @ 2666mHz CL15 Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4, MSI Geforce GTX 1070 Gaming X, Corsair SFX 600, Samsung 850 Pro 512gb, Samsung Q55R TV, Filco Majestouch Convertible 2 TKL keyboard, Logitech G403 wireless mouse

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11 hours ago, Kalm_Traveler1 said:

Nothing AMD sells right now can do that.

Exactly. Cores aren't everything. Threadripper may have more PCIE lanes and more cores but it gets absolutely destroyed in SLI setups vs. Broadwell-E and properly OC'ed Skylake X.

CPU: i7 6950X  |  Motherboard: Asus Rampage V ed. 10  |  RAM: 32 GB Corsair Dominator Platinum Special Edition 3200 MHz (CL14)  |  GPUs: 2x Asus GTX 1080ti SLI 

Storage: Samsung 960 EVO 1 TB M.2 NVME  |  PSU: In Win SIV 1065W 

Cooling: Custom LC 2 x 360mm EK Radiators | EK D5 Pump | EK 250 Reservoir | EK RVE10 Monoblock | EK GPU Blocks & Backplates | Alphacool Fittings & Connectors | Alphacool Glass Tubing

Case: In Win Tou 2.0  |  Display: Alienware AW3418DW  |  Sound: Woo Audio WA8 Eclipse + Focal Utopia Headphones

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Ok so as far as electrical wiring goes 1600W @ 120V 60hz usa power your looking at 13.33 amp potentially for just the Desktop. Safe continuous power draw on a 15 amp circuit would be 12 amps by industries standards. If you go this route discribed i would run a 20Amp dedicated circuit for your setup (12/2 romex ) on a separate 20Amp breaker.  A new 20amp circuit would allow  16amp continuous draw  ( 1920 watt max).  Been earing a living as an electrican for 18yr now.

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1 hour ago, Esper22 said:

Ok so as far as electrical wiring goes 1600W @ 120V 60hz usa power your looking at 13.33 amp potentially for just the Desktop. Safe continuous power draw on a 15 amp circuit would be 12 amps by industries standards. If you go this route discribed i would run a 20Amp dedicated circuit for your setup (12/2 romex ) on a separate 20Amp breaker.  A new 20amp circuit would allow  16amp continuous draw  ( 1920 watt max).  Been earing a living as an electrican for 18yr now.

Perfect, thank you. I have a big spool of 12/2 romex, and I think a 20A breaker laying around. 

 

If i run this new line i should go pick up one of those 20A outlets with the T leg thing, right? 

HEDT: i9 10980XE @ 4.9 gHz, 64GB @ 3600mHz CL14 G.Skill Trident-Z DDR4, 2x Nvidia Titan RTX NVLink SLI, Corsair AX1600i, Samsung 960 Pro 2TB OS/apps, Samsung 850 EVO 4TB media, LG 38GL950G-B monitor, Drop CTRL keyboard, Decus Respec mouse

Laptop: Razer Blade Pro 2019 9750H model, 32GB @ 3200mHz CL18 G.Skill Ripjaws DDR4, 2x Samsung 960 Pro 1TB RAID0, repasted with Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut
Gaming Rig: i9 9900ks @ 5.2ghz, 32GB @ 4000mHz CL17 G.Skill Trident-Z DDR4, EVGA RTX 2080 Ti Kingpin, Corsair HX1200, Samsung 970 EVO Plus 2TB, Asus PG348Q monitor, Corsair K70 LUX RGB keyboard, Corsair Ironclaw mouse
HTPC: i7 7700 (delidded + LM), 16GB @ 2666mHz CL15 Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4, MSI Geforce GTX 1070 Gaming X, Corsair SFX 600, Samsung 850 Pro 512gb, Samsung Q55R TV, Filco Majestouch Convertible 2 TKL keyboard, Logitech G403 wireless mouse

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2 hours ago, Kalm_Traveler1 said:

Perfect, thank you. I have a big spool of 12/2 romex, and I think a 20A breaker laying around. 

 

If i run this new line i should go pick up one of those 20A outlets with the T leg thing, right? 

I'd say unless your going to use a 20 amp spec cord from the outlet to the power supply like a nema 20-5p (the one with a sideways power prong a normal outlet or a spec grade would be just fine. The 1600i probably comes with a heavy whip with it but idk refer to the manafacture included items.

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53 minutes ago, Esper22 said:

I'd say unless your going to use a 20 amp spec cord from the outlet to the power supply like a nema 20-5p (the one with a sideways power prong a normal outlet or a spec grade would be just fine. The 1600i probably comes with a heavy whip with it but idk refer to the manafacture included items.

Oh I just meant to indicate that it was a 20A circuit. 

 

I'm looking at a 2200VA UPS from APC and it seems to have that 20-5p you mentioned. It is also $1100. This upgrade just got a lot more expensive ?

HEDT: i9 10980XE @ 4.9 gHz, 64GB @ 3600mHz CL14 G.Skill Trident-Z DDR4, 2x Nvidia Titan RTX NVLink SLI, Corsair AX1600i, Samsung 960 Pro 2TB OS/apps, Samsung 850 EVO 4TB media, LG 38GL950G-B monitor, Drop CTRL keyboard, Decus Respec mouse

Laptop: Razer Blade Pro 2019 9750H model, 32GB @ 3200mHz CL18 G.Skill Ripjaws DDR4, 2x Samsung 960 Pro 1TB RAID0, repasted with Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut
Gaming Rig: i9 9900ks @ 5.2ghz, 32GB @ 4000mHz CL17 G.Skill Trident-Z DDR4, EVGA RTX 2080 Ti Kingpin, Corsair HX1200, Samsung 970 EVO Plus 2TB, Asus PG348Q monitor, Corsair K70 LUX RGB keyboard, Corsair Ironclaw mouse
HTPC: i7 7700 (delidded + LM), 16GB @ 2666mHz CL15 Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4, MSI Geforce GTX 1070 Gaming X, Corsair SFX 600, Samsung 850 Pro 512gb, Samsung Q55R TV, Filco Majestouch Convertible 2 TKL keyboard, Logitech G403 wireless mouse

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23 hours ago, Kalm_Traveler1 said:

Perfect, thank you. I have a big spool of 12/2 romex, and I think a 20A breaker laying around. 

If i run this new line i should go pick up one of those 20A outlets with the T leg thing, right? 

ATTENTION!
THE BREAKER HAS TO BE THE RIGHT ONE FOR THE CABLE!

YOU CAN'T JUST REPLACE THE BREAKER; THAT WILL BURN DOWN YOUR HOUSE!

"Hell is full of good meanings, but Heaven is full of good works"

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3 hours ago, Stefan Payne said:

ATTENTION!
THE BREAKER HAS TO BE THE RIGHT ONE FOR THE CABLE!

YOU CAN'T JUST REPLACE THE BREAKER; THAT WILL BURN DOWN YOUR HOUSE!

That's literally what we're talking about... 

 

12/2 romex is the electrical wiring in the wall.

 

If you don't understand the conversation it might be easier to not comment on it ?

HEDT: i9 10980XE @ 4.9 gHz, 64GB @ 3600mHz CL14 G.Skill Trident-Z DDR4, 2x Nvidia Titan RTX NVLink SLI, Corsair AX1600i, Samsung 960 Pro 2TB OS/apps, Samsung 850 EVO 4TB media, LG 38GL950G-B monitor, Drop CTRL keyboard, Decus Respec mouse

Laptop: Razer Blade Pro 2019 9750H model, 32GB @ 3200mHz CL18 G.Skill Ripjaws DDR4, 2x Samsung 960 Pro 1TB RAID0, repasted with Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut
Gaming Rig: i9 9900ks @ 5.2ghz, 32GB @ 4000mHz CL17 G.Skill Trident-Z DDR4, EVGA RTX 2080 Ti Kingpin, Corsair HX1200, Samsung 970 EVO Plus 2TB, Asus PG348Q monitor, Corsair K70 LUX RGB keyboard, Corsair Ironclaw mouse
HTPC: i7 7700 (delidded + LM), 16GB @ 2666mHz CL15 Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4, MSI Geforce GTX 1070 Gaming X, Corsair SFX 600, Samsung 850 Pro 512gb, Samsung Q55R TV, Filco Majestouch Convertible 2 TKL keyboard, Logitech G403 wireless mouse

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5 hours ago, Kalm_Traveler1 said:

That's literally what we're talking about... 

12/2 romex is the electrical wiring in the wall.

If you don't understand the conversation it might be easier to not comment on it ?

Says the one who is hellbent on supporting one of the most evil companys that ever existed...

 

And if you don't understand that most people don't understand electrical wiring, you better not be such a nice guy. A warning should be mentioned, if its not for you, it has to be for the next dude that has like 1,5mm² or something like that and thinks that because you are talking about it, he as well can. So it has to be mentioned at least for those guys...

"Hell is full of good meanings, but Heaven is full of good works"

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On 12/6/2018 at 12:15 PM, Esper22 said:

I'd say unless your going to use a 20 amp spec cord from the outlet to the power supply like a nema 20-5p (the one with a sideways power prong a normal outlet or a spec grade would be just fine. The 1600i probably comes with a heavy whip with it but idk refer to the manafacture included items.

sorry to bug you but one more question - I got the new rig set up and need to order a new UPS now...  looks like the 2200VA one I was looking at is about $800, or I can get a 3000VA one for ~ $1000 but would need to buy 10 gauge wire for a 30A breaker (I only have a spool of 12GA laying around). 

Between 2200VA for $800 and not buying more wiring, or 3000VA for $1000 but also have to buy about 25 feet of 10/3 romex which would you pick? Minding that you have to run the wiring either way...

 

*edited because I found cheaper prices on Newegg, $789 shipped for the 2200VA 1980w, or $998 shipped for the 3000VA 2700w model of this APC unit.

Edited by Kalm_Traveler1
found cheaper prices

HEDT: i9 10980XE @ 4.9 gHz, 64GB @ 3600mHz CL14 G.Skill Trident-Z DDR4, 2x Nvidia Titan RTX NVLink SLI, Corsair AX1600i, Samsung 960 Pro 2TB OS/apps, Samsung 850 EVO 4TB media, LG 38GL950G-B monitor, Drop CTRL keyboard, Decus Respec mouse

Laptop: Razer Blade Pro 2019 9750H model, 32GB @ 3200mHz CL18 G.Skill Ripjaws DDR4, 2x Samsung 960 Pro 1TB RAID0, repasted with Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut
Gaming Rig: i9 9900ks @ 5.2ghz, 32GB @ 4000mHz CL17 G.Skill Trident-Z DDR4, EVGA RTX 2080 Ti Kingpin, Corsair HX1200, Samsung 970 EVO Plus 2TB, Asus PG348Q monitor, Corsair K70 LUX RGB keyboard, Corsair Ironclaw mouse
HTPC: i7 7700 (delidded + LM), 16GB @ 2666mHz CL15 Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4, MSI Geforce GTX 1070 Gaming X, Corsair SFX 600, Samsung 850 Pro 512gb, Samsung Q55R TV, Filco Majestouch Convertible 2 TKL keyboard, Logitech G403 wireless mouse

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This thread is hilarious. In all honesty I think you can just go 220 with no rewire needed sometimes, just swap the plug so that you dont stick the vaccum cleaner in there lol. DOUBLE CHECK TO SEE IF I'M WRONG but I don't think there's anything wrong with running split phase on the existing neutral and live wiring as long as you have the circuit isolated to appliances able to use it. Simply re-route the neutral to its own 15/20amp breaker in the panel.

 

220V-240V is just having 2 120-180 deg. out of phase 115-120V as far as I know.

 

 

As for my peanut gallery advice intel sucks you are a terrible human being how could you betray lisa su this way  on the upgrade choice I'd consider the 14 core over the 16 core just to get a little more frequency (beats out the extra cores) and the price jump to the 16 core is a bit silly to me but then again 14 is just a strange core count and you already have 2x Xp's.....

 

16 core absolutely over the 18 core though for a few reasons which I'm guessing you already might know since you are talking 16 core already. At this point I don't see the point of waiting any longer. We already can guess intel is going to take its sweet time with whatever comes next with all the hoopla going on and 10nm being a PITA so If I was going to wait itd be for 3rd gen TR as I have a feeling we are going to see at least 1 st gen sky-lake-x per core performance based on the improvements we have seen already but if the time is now I don't see the 79xxX series getting outdated suddenly in August 2019.

 

 I say that just because if I did good have faith in what was coming I could see a strategy of 16 core 3rd gen TR now to be able to upgrade to 4th gen TR in 2020-2021 if I needed a master plan for my next upgrade path down the line but 3rd gen TR wont be here for nearly a year anyways!

 

What were we talking about again?? 1600 watt PSUs ???

 

 

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Also used server grade 220V UPS can be a good choice just to avoid the rig shutting down due to a mild brown out since usually youre looking for avoid the momentary 2 cycle brownout or a minute or 2 to get rig shutdown more so than 45 minutes of gaming during a blackout so little bit of age doesn't hurt. I picked up a voltage regulator from APC (1200R) that cost $50 that can handle 1200 watts that fixed an issue where my rig would randomly reset especially if the garage opener was activated or the air con switched on.

 

I will note those power conditioners are a load BS for PCs they dont help with anything only when you need clean AC like in audio equip. The 1200R for example is not one of those.

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6 hours ago, Kalm_Traveler1 said:

sorry to bug you but one more question - I got the new rig set up and need to order a new UPS now...  looks like the 2200VA one I was looking at is about $800, or I can get a 3000VA one for ~ $1000 but would need to buy 10 gauge wire for a 30A breaker (I only have a spool of 12GA laying around). 

Between 2200VA for $800 and not buying more wiring, or 3000VA for $1000 but also have to buy about 25 feet of 10/3 romex which would you pick? Minding that you have to run the wiring either way...

 

*edited because I found cheaper prices on Newegg, $789 shipped for the 2200VA 1980w, or $998 shipped for the 3000VA 2700w model of this APC unit.

I would say unless the 1600w or grater psu calls for a 30 amp standard nema 30-5r receptacle then that the 2200VA ups should be enough. Idea being that you have already oversized your psu for no more then 80-85% capacity used so the 2200VA ups should be more then enough for complete protection.  

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12 minutes ago, Esper22 said:

I would say unless the 1600w or grater psu calls for a 30 amp standard nema 30-5r receptacle then that the 2200VA ups should be enough. Idea being that you have already oversized your psu for no more then 80-85% capacity used so the 2200VA ups should be more then enough for complete protection.  

Makes sense. I was thinking to put my 9900k rig on this as well (right now it is on the TV... I'm putting a little HTPC rig together with spare parts). That thing does great with a 750w PSU. Assuming worst case scenario that both are on and balls-to-the-wall would the 3000VA be a better option?

I like saving $200 and not having to buy 10/3 wire, but I'd hate to regret the choice 6 months down the road if that makes sense.

 

What do you think?

HEDT: i9 10980XE @ 4.9 gHz, 64GB @ 3600mHz CL14 G.Skill Trident-Z DDR4, 2x Nvidia Titan RTX NVLink SLI, Corsair AX1600i, Samsung 960 Pro 2TB OS/apps, Samsung 850 EVO 4TB media, LG 38GL950G-B monitor, Drop CTRL keyboard, Decus Respec mouse

Laptop: Razer Blade Pro 2019 9750H model, 32GB @ 3200mHz CL18 G.Skill Ripjaws DDR4, 2x Samsung 960 Pro 1TB RAID0, repasted with Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut
Gaming Rig: i9 9900ks @ 5.2ghz, 32GB @ 4000mHz CL17 G.Skill Trident-Z DDR4, EVGA RTX 2080 Ti Kingpin, Corsair HX1200, Samsung 970 EVO Plus 2TB, Asus PG348Q monitor, Corsair K70 LUX RGB keyboard, Corsair Ironclaw mouse
HTPC: i7 7700 (delidded + LM), 16GB @ 2666mHz CL15 Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4, MSI Geforce GTX 1070 Gaming X, Corsair SFX 600, Samsung 850 Pro 512gb, Samsung Q55R TV, Filco Majestouch Convertible 2 TKL keyboard, Logitech G403 wireless mouse

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In that case your existing ups and circuit its plugged into should be good for the 9900k build right?

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23 minutes ago, Esper22 said:

I would say unless the 1600w or grater psu calls for a 30 amp standard nema 30-5r receptacle then that the 2200VA ups should be enough. Idea being that you have already oversized your psu for no more then 80-85% capacity used so the 2200VA ups should be more then enough for complete protection.  

1600 Watt PSU isn't going to pull much more than 1800 at the wall, barely need to go to 20 A unless you intend to properly smash some power virus loads on the system.

 

If 1600 is a little over-sized for the system already I would just stick to whats there, get the 1600i instead of a 1600 G2 to reduce the at the wall pull juuuust in case and leave it. If you can make sure to give the PC its own circuit its not going to be an issue but I tell people not to use outlets for the circuit the PC is on anyways as many appliances send all sorts of nasty stuff back over the neutral and pull down the live when they get turned on.

 

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