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My CPU corevoltage is always way too high. And even when I set it manually onto generous amounts it is unstable with overclocking speeds that should be totally fine. With CPU Voltage on AUTO: - corevoltage goes over 1.46V without overclocking when just opening browsers sometimes --> Fans go to 100% load (because the CPU produces too much heat) With CPU Voltage on Manual: - corevoltage set to 1.38V causes instability on 4.5Ghz OC: e.g. bluescreens (Others run 4.8GHz stable at 1.36V) - corevoltage set to 1.38V causes instability even on 4.4Ghz OC: e.g. screen freezes and I need to hard restart My setup: Z170A Asus motherboard (BIOS Version 3802 (newest Version)) Intel i7 6700K (4GHz base, 4.2GHz boost) 16GB DDR4 RAM (2400MHz) Crucial Ballistix (Dimm slot A2 & B2) GTX 1070 Zotac Samsung 970 Evo M.2 SSD (1TB) 2x 140mm & 2x 120mm case fans I do not understand what the issue is and I read that people were having similar issues with the same motherboard and CPU but I never found out how to solve it... Please help let me know what the Issue could be.. PS 4.4GHz OC with voltage set on AUTO when opening a 2nd browser?!?!? WTH how does it go to 1.456V????:

Hey everyone, I'm at my wits end here. I wanted to make some upgrades to a build that is 5 years old. I have an MSI z170a Tomahawk AC motherboard that is usually compatible with 6th gen processors. In looking for compatible parts I found that if you update the BIOS that you can use some 7th generation CPUs including the i7 7700k. I bought an i7-7700k that allegedly was in working condition to replace my i5-6500 I updated the BIOS to the most recent version available for my board. The install on that went great. No problems. Boots and posts fine every time. That's when the BSODs began. The most common one was IRQL NOT LESS OR EQUAL with a specific .sys file listed. I went through plugging holes in the dam by installing all updates and drivers related to the files listed (Net10.sys, tcpip.sys, and others). After several hours of updating and downloading new drivers, I started to see different BSOD errors occur, or the same IRQL one but with no specific files being mentioned. I got PAGE FAULT IN NONPAGED AREA and a few others that I can't remember off the top of my head. It even crashes in safe mode. Now, I've since installed a brand new SSD with a clean install of Windows. Same problems. However, when I switch back to the i5 there are no issues. With the i7 the computer will only run for a few minutes at a time, sometimes up to 20 minutes. If I let it be and don't try to do anything it will stay on longer. I've been using a 10 hour Youtube video as a means of testing if the computer will stay on or not. With the i5 I've had it run for 4 hours with no issues. I applied new thermal compound paste each time. I've tried other versions of BIOS, I've installed all possible drivers from Windows Updates and the drivers available on the product page for my motherboard. I've gone through component by component and removed anything that may be causing an issue. I've booted without a GPU and a network card. I installed the Intel Processor Diagnostic Tool and BOTH processors passed in all categories. All of my hardware is operational in the BIOS menu for either processor. The temp is good for both between 31-41 degrees. EDIT: I also removed and replaced the CMOS battery. Is there any way that there is something wrong with the processor outside the parameters that the diagnostic searches for? Would this be a motherboard failing? Am I just missing some obvious driver or software that will make this all work? If someone can confidently say that the it's a bunk processor, I can then go through the process of getting a refund from the ebay seller who sold it to me. I just want to be absolutely sure that I'm not being a dolt here. Please help. THINGS TO NOTE: Here are the dump files https://drive.google.com/file/d/1eFkUHLcU62ylx2c0U_Us4X4XfHhI057Q/view?usp=sharing I currently can not obtain the perfmon data. It takes longer than 60 seconds to collect and the BSOD happens before I can get it. I am currently only running one stick of 16GB RAM because the pins on my other stick got damaged(long story) I was originally running into these errors with an HDD. I had the HDD checked and it was completely functional. I had planned to upgrade to an SSD anyways, so I did, and here we are. My PC Part Picker link is here: PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU Intel Core i5-6500 3.2 GHz Quad-Core Processor $235.00 @ Amazon CPU Cooler Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler $34.99 @ Newegg Motherboard MSI Z170A Tomahawk AC ATX LGA1151 Motherboard Memory G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (1 x 16 GB) DDR4-2800 CL15 Memory Storage Samsung 870 Evo 250 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive $44.99 @ B&H Video Card MSI GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4 GB GAMING X Video Card $699.98 @ Amazon Power Supply EVGA 500 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply Operating System Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit $139.88 @ Other World Computing Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total (before mail-in rebates) $1164.84 Mail-in rebates -$10.00 Total $1154.84 Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-05-11 20:44 EDT-0400

Hello, could anyone dump their current bios from the MSI Krait Gaming Z170A motherboard to a .bin file? I'm currently trying to recover this board as a bricked motherboard. Much appreciated if you could do so.

I was looking around the bios for my asus z170a motherboard, as you do, and I saw an ez flash utility to download and flash the bios from the internet. I was psyched bc I’ve literally never updated my bios in the last 3-4 years and this seemed like an easy way to do it. I pressed ‘download’ and now it’s stuck. The mouse won’t move and the keyboard does nothing. The screen says ‘downloading, please wait’. I have gigabit internet so it shouldn’t take this long, I know that much. Is it safe to restart my computer or will that completely fuck it? Thanks in advance

Specs: i7 6700k @4.6GHZ Msi gaming m7 z170a mobo 980 ti msi 980 ti EVGA (only running sli in the last 2 weeks) 16gb lpx corsair ram 1000w gold aero cool psu (got it cheap on amazon years ago and never thought to replace as it actually worked) So, I upgraded my rig to sli a week ago and everything seemed fine, I was running games that used sli perfectly, obviously had the sli hiccups that anybody would get when doing something like this (build my rig 5 years ago with the intention of sli and decided to do it just before bug navi came out just to see what it's like before sli truly dies). Found out you can import profiles to games via nvidia inspector and decided to tinker with it on monster hunter world, everything seemed fine then went back to playing some other games, pc couldn't be running any better. All of a sudden my pc turns off and reboots, I assume too much power draw and my psu was dying, happens again and again over and over, so I unplug my second gpu, this time I can get to the desktop for about 15 to 30 seconds at a time, pc keeps rebooting by itself, telling me it need repairs, so I let it do its thing, reset the pc but keep my files then it just stops posting after that, compleatly dies, only the fans spin up, I think, maybe the psu and just totally died and can only barely get enough power to turn things on. Try another psu, with one gpu now, corsair gs800, still nothing, now I think my cpu is dead somehow (msi baord apparently has serge protection) so I put my cpu in another mobo, still no post, I've tried ddr4 and ddr3 ram with this cpu, nothing, put it back in original board, try 1 stick of ram in each slot, nothing, clear cmos, nothing, keep getting error code 62 or error code D4 or 04 or it gets stuck in a loop with the numbers going too fast, think my bios is broken and needs an update or flashback so I get bios and do everything msi video says as my board has a flashback button, red-light blinks 3 times and then does nothing, I've taken all the components apart from the new psu out and tried to flash and still, blinks 3 times and then doesn't flash bios, it is definitely in the right USB port, I've read the manual about 100 times now, I followed everything to a T and still nothing. I don't really know what else to do now, if anybody could help me I'd be so happy, can really afford to buy a new cpu. Thank you.

So today I discovered that my PC won't turn on anymore, what a nice Sunday after going through a The Varus infection… The specs: intel core i5 6400 @ 2.7 GHz asus z170a motherboard 24 GB of mixed DDR4 RAM (3 8 GB sticks, I don't remember the exact speed.) Zotac GTX 1060 6GB be quiet L8-400W PSU 1 TB of Storage split between 3 SSDs OS: opensuse Tumbleweed Linux (64 bit) BIOS version: I have no idea The situation: After having worked mostly fine for years the system doesn't boot properly anymore, just spinning the fans and lighting the motherboard power and CPU_LED leds. The power LED in the power button isn't lit. This is true even with everything but PSU, monitor, CPU and CPU and case fans and power connectors as well as some dumb USB and audio headers disconnected. (24 Pin and 8 Pin are connected, I have tried reseating.) I have tried removing the CMOS battery and putting it back in after several minutes, removing system memory, unplugging all SATA devices, no changes. When checking the power supply as described here the PSU claims to be fine (5V between Power Good and Ground), it should be noted that I have only tested this with no load, manually connecting Power on and Ground. Previous issues: In the past years I have experienced random system freezes (video freezes, audio loops a ~ quarter second long clip) with the system sometimes still being accessible via ssh. In these situations I would normally hard reboot the system, recently I discovered that when doing nothing in this situation the system reboots itself after some time (still showing that same frame until the reboot). These happen usually when playing minecraft or rendering video, this might mean that one CPU core doesn't like sustained load… Also during the past few years the CMOS battery consumption has been unusually high, consuming one battery every ~ four months. (When the system is powered off I disconnect it from the wall.) For both of these issues I could never find a cause. What I haven't tried yet: I have not tried swapping PSU, CPU or motherboard, as I don't have any spares lying around. (I could grab a working PSU from a family members system, but wouldn't be comfortable potentially damaging it.) I also didn't try checking the Power good pin while the system is powered on, as the pins aren't exposed while plugged into the connector. Reseating of the CPU didn't happen either, the thermal paste is years old and I don't have any laying around. Question: Ii there anything else I should try? Given the previous history, which of the three remaining components (PSU, CPU, mainboard) is most likely to be at fault and should be replaced first? Thanks in advance! -gaboversta

I just got a new asus z170a to replace an msi one I was having problems with I have just put in my i7 7700k and my 1080ti and it won’t boot the cpu light goes on for a second the ram light goes on for about 10 seconds then they go off I have reset my cmos I can’t figure out what’s wrong

I was just looking for a good z170 Motherboard and I found the msi z170a Krait Gaming 3X. So I watched some YT ant this kind of stuff and i didnt noticed that there were 2 versions of the z170a Krait. 1. Version: Z170A KRAIT GAMING [https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/Z170-KRAIT-GAMING.html#hero-overview] 1. Version: Z170A KRAIT GAMING 3X [https://msi.com/Motherboard/Z170A-KRAIT-GAMING-3X.html#hero-specification] It is a litlle bit confusing and now my Question? Is there any big difference (I know there are some but are they noticeable in daily use) between those two? And which would be the smarter choice for Kabylake. Thanks for your Support [Please ignore any wrong spelling or meaning of my words. Iam German and my English isn´t really good]

So, in my mission to construct a somewhat modestly priced gaming rig, I have been taken through a gambit of mobo options paired with various CPUs for optimal processing speeds. I have pretty much decided on the MSI KRAIT Gaming 3X LGA1151 Z170A paired with an i5 6500. I know I can't OC on this CPU, but I will most likely upgrade to a K type CPU somewhere down the line when I get a tad more savvy with tweaking. Right now I want to focus on the basics. I.E.: Raw (out of the box) processing speeds and how to get the most out of pairing a basic quad-core CPU with certain speeds of DDR4 memory. From what I have read, it seems like the Z170A chipsets offer some decent options if I elect to overclock eventually with an upgraded GPU. I am aware that there are ways to overclock a locked GPU on the Z170A, but I don't want to sacrifice temp monitoring since I am nowhere near advanced enough to gamble with higher heat output without a way to track it. So my question is: How much does DDR4 speed really matter when running more CPU-bound games such as GTAV or Skyrim SE? Right now I am looking at 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 2400. Should I go for a faster speed? I really like the aesthetic appeal of the Avixir Core series with the red LEDs. I know, cosmetic details shouldn't really matter when evaluating performance, but they're just so damn pretty. I'm sure some of you might understand. Sorry for the long post, but there is a lot of info I wanted to get out there at once just to give anyone some background to work with. If you want to take a closer look at my part list, you can find it here: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/cJwyQV

So I recently purchased the MSI Z170A SLI Plus for my first ever build. I bought this with the intention of getting my first rig cheap and quick so I can start playing soon while having options to expand for memory, OC (if I ever want to), SLI, m.2, etc. I know I want to go with an i3 and I was thinking of the Intel - Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor as it has good reviews and all but I thought I would check with the community on this in case there is a better i3 option (6th generation or lower). I know I could go for an i5 but I am not looking to spend ~$200 for a CPU atm. Maybe later or upgrade towards an AMD (mobo including). Also, current build. Open to any input https://pcpartpicker.com/list/9RWpLD

Hi all, I'm getting really miffed at trying to understand the following... MOBO: MSI Z170A Gaming M7. M2_2 Slot: Samsung 950Pro M.2 NVME. SATA Port 1: Samsung 850Pro SSD. SATA Port 2: Seagate SSHD. GPU: Single MSI GTX 1080. I was browsing my UEFI which has a 'Board explorer' showing all the I/O ports etc. For my SATA ports with the above config, I noticed the following 'Naming' convention for them. (See six pics below) SATA Port 1 = M.2/SATA SATA Port 2 = M.2/SATA SATA Port 3 = SATA6Gb/s SATA Port 4 = SATA6Gb/s SATA Port 5 = M.2/SATA SATA Port 6 = M.2/SATA Now...I bought this MOBO on the premise that I could use the M2_2 slot without losing ANY use of ANY of the SATA ports. And this is shown in an image from the manual. I simply want to know why the SATA ports are named differently as shown above...It's just bugging me. Using CrystalDiskMark I get good benches on the drives. 950Pro - 2100 / 950 reads/writes 850Pro - 550ish reads/writes. I've been told so much conflicting information that I'm just confused as hell. Everything from...I can only use one or the other (M.2 ports Or SATA ports), I can only use 'X' amount of SATA ports, I will lose performance/speed etc etc and even that the image from the MSI MOBO manual is incorrect! which would piss me off tbh. Can anybody tell me what the hell is going on? I've asked MSI Support but had no reply. The image from the manual, where I've added a red box showing my M.2 config (950Pro plugged in M2_2 Slot) Images from my UEFI showing the differently named SATA ports which is confusing me...

Hello dear people I wanted to ask your opinion on my planned PC upgrade. I want to upgrade my system due to the recent addition of an MSI GTX1080Ti Gaming X 11Gb! The current system runs on an AMD FX8350 with 16Gb RAM @1600 and as expected is not performing as wished. I already have an MSI Z170a Tomahawk as a gift, and I was thinking of buying an i-7700k (around 400€ here in Greece), however I have second thoughts because buying an AM4 motherboard and one of new Ryzen CPUs would cost about the same (a 1600x with a decent AM4 Mobo goes around 350€-400€). Also I'm am not really sure on what RAM frequency to choose for the new system and how crucial are the differences from 3000 to 3200 or 3600. I use my PC for web/game development, video editing and obviously gaming. What would you suggest I do with the CPU/Mobo and how many GB of RAM and at what speeds should I choose? Thanks in advance

History of crashes: I've been having a few crashing issues with my build the last several months. The last component I installed was my GPU in May-ish. I started having these crashes that were at first infrequent, but increased over time. Using the Windows "Reliability" I linked the issue with the EVGA software that I opted to use the OC Genie (I started to manually OC, realized the risk was too high, returned all settings to normal, then used OC Genie in the software). The "fix" was to uninstall the software, and to activate the OC genie via the BIOS. I had no problems linked to EVGA after that (about in August). In the last 2 weeks, my computer would randomly restart (sometimes with the sad face ":(" blue screen, sometimes not), normally when I was playing some game or watching youtube videos. I wouldn't say my computer was under any high load or anything (usually I was playing indie games or watching videos in 1080p; there was one specific instance where I was using the NVidia program to record gameplay and it crashed about 10 minutes in), but after the restart came back on, it would work fine. The Windows Reliability only stated there were Windows crashes, but no other software services that were at fault. Current event: Yesterday, I was looking through some videos I captured and re-labeling them, and then it crashed again. To me it sounded like it restarted 2-3 times, then stayed on, but did not display anything on my screen. I looked at the MoBo, and the DRAM light turns on for about 5 seconds, then turns off any time I turn the computer on. I've unattached all USB and video cables, removed my GPU, and the memory, basically leaving the storage, PSU, MoBo, CPU, CPU fan, and HDMI (and DVI to HDMI converter cord) from MoBo to moniter attached, and I get the same DRAM red light for 5 seconds. I don't have (or can't find) the cord that attaches to the part of the motherboard that would cause the beeping sound, so I have no idea what kind of beeps my MoBo would be sending. I've inserted my memory sticks one at a time or both at the same time in any combination in the 2, 3, and 4 slots (the 1st slot is blocked because of the fan), but all result in the same DRAM red light for 5 seconds. The computer "sounds" like it normally does when I start it, most of the fans are moving (except the ones connected to the CPU ports on the MoBo), there's just no display fed through to my monitor. Attempts Made: I've googled and looked at a few solutions on this site and the above is what I've tried so far. I feel like there's something broken, but I want to try to be as efficient as possible, as I don't have a ton of money right now, and would not like to replace something I didn't have to. I don't have spare known-to-be-working RAM, so I haven't tried that. I wanna believe it's the RAM, but I just feel like the likelihood that both would die simultaneously is low. Then again, maybe one of them was dead for the last 2 weeks? Perhaps MoBo? Hopefully not the CPU... Highly doubt PSU (should have lots of Watts) or GPU (still won't boot after I took it out). God forbid multi-failing situation. Specs Here is a link to my current parts list, in case it helps. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/LbVp4C CPU: i5-6600k 3.5Ghz MoBo: MSI Z170A PC MATE LGA1151 RAM: Ballistix Sport 2x4GB DDR4-2400 GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8GB SSD Storage: 850 EVO 250GB HDD Storage: Barracuda 1 TB 5900RPM Case: Corsair 200R ATX PSU: Thermaltake 750W 80+ Gold Thank you so much for taking the time to look at this. This is my first time posting. If you need more information, please let me know!

Having Issues with a new build, these are the specs: MSI Z170A SLI Motherboard i3-6100 8gb SK Hynix DDR4 2133 (2x4) ULT-LSP750 750w PSU When I power on the system, it will not post. The EZ Debug LED For DRAM stays on for about 3 seconds, then switches to CPU for about 1 second, then goes back to the DRAM. This cycle is never-ending, and nothing I have tried has worked. I've tried each stick in each slot, I've tried them in every possible combination of slots, I've rest the bios, I've tried a different motherboard, I've tried a different PSU. Nothing has worked. Help is greatly appreciated. Thank you.

I've been doing a lot of research with the motherboard because what i need/want is good audio chipset, and the best one is the ALC 1550 and the Creative 3D which the Gigabyte Gaming 7 does have (but i've read that with some people it didn't worked too well). So i came upon the MSI Gaming M5, which does have pretty much everything i need. Alright, so i started building my pc, ordered the peripherals first because i can use them right away with my old pc (which i'm still using because i only need the motherboard and the GPU to complete my build), and i wanted a good headphone, so i ordered the DT770, and it seems that my old pc doesn't have enough power for the DT770 (i've connected right into the motherboard, which is an old Asus P7H55-M LE). So i've wanted to know if someone has a motherboard with ALC 1550 chipset and connects a studio level headpone like the DT770 right into the onboard audio of the motherboard, does it have enough power to power up the headphone? I wanna know this to know if i'll need an AMP or not.

Hi am planning on building a pc with a 6700k on an asus z170-a and a msi gtx 1070 gaming x Is this a good idea? Should i go with 16 or 32 gb ram What i am going to do with this pc: Edit 4096x2160p 24 fps and 1080p 60fps. Playing: rocket league, WorldOfTanks and LoL

Specs Motherboard : MSI 170a M5 Cpu : Intel G4400 Gpu : XFX 6840 2g RAM : 2x4g g.Skill 3200mhz C16 My plan is to buy 2x m.2 MVMe cards, my motherboard has two slots. The question I have is are they going to be using 4 lanes each or 4 lanes total? Secondly I read that M.2 runs to the chip-set in which I read that it might have 4 additional lanes? I also read something that contradicts that in which the lanes go to the chipset then to the cpu so, the cpu would break down the bandwidth to allow it to fit under the max available lanes. Would that give 8x to the gpu and each m.2 would get 4x or if the m.2 are combined for a total of 4 lanes would that be 8x 4x, even more random, if the chipset has 4 lanes and cpu has 16 lanes. i have 2 m.2 which of the two would go to the chipset and the other to the cpu. Lastly, if they do combine for x4 would 2 m.2 cards go to the chipset(again if that is a thing) and my gpu would stay at x16?? If anyone could shed some light on the explanation of the it would be greatly appreciated. I applogize in advanced if this is a little scribbly just read to many things on the internet that contradict them selfs. Figured id just ask the question and where else better then linustechtips Thanks -Logan

Hey all! I find myself in need of some friendly advice, so please help if you can! Super quick back story, started a build in 2016 and recieved a life changing injury to my back...now it's finally time to finish the build and I'm between a rock and a hard place. Here's why... I've already purchased - Corsair 780T case - MSI gaming M7 Z170A mobo - EK Monoblock for the Z170A MSI mobo 2x8Gb G.Skill Trident Z Silver/Red 3200mhz - EK PE360 rad - Bitspower 250 res w/ EK D5 pump, Bitspower black sparkle pump housing - Singularity Computers (AUS) Res to rad mounts (NOT CHEAP) Now....here we are in July 2019 and I am finally, and barely able to dedicate a bit of cash to finishing the build. What's the problem you ask? The issue I am facing is I have spent hundreds (CAD) on the mobo and ek monoblock, not to mention all the water cooling components not in the form of an AIO, and I am unable to use the newer Intel processors. I would love to buy an I7-9700k, but my MSI M7 Z170a wont accept it. I have been told I can run a I7-7700k if I update my BIOS. Otherwise, I'm looking at buying a new mobo...and having to try and sell my z170a & EK Monoblock, and either buy a new CPU waterblock or scrapping all my expensive cooling gear and yet again spend money on an AIO for another new mobo. Ugh. I'd like to run a RTX 2070 Super if I can get my hands on one, as well as a 144hz 1440p monitor. The PC will be used as my entertainment system, movies and music as well as World of Tanks, Battlefield 5 and a couple other common titles. IS IT WORTH GOING THROUGH ALL THAT!? Or should I just buy a I7-7700k and finish with the gear I've already invested in? Will I be missing out so much that I wouldn't enjoy the new system? Is a new Z390 w/ 9th gen chip nessessary to enjoy a RTX 2070 SUPER or 2080 at 1440p on high to ultra settings? VS Using an MSI Gaming M7 w/ I7-7700k? If you made it this far, I really appreciate your time and any feedback you can share with me. Thanks very kindly. Isle-Renner

Hi all, I'm in a pickle. I'm running a Z170 platform with a 6700K. I was using my computer about a week ago to write a paper for class, and it conked out on me. At first I thought, "nbd, power cycle it, get back to work." Didn't work. I'd get to the windows login screen, and it would just stop. No blue screen, no error codes, nothing. I gave up, and waited until I could give it more time. A few days later, I tried everything. I tested my RAM, all good. Removed DIMMs, didnt work. Tried reinstalling windows, and it crashes before I can even select what version to install. A few times I got a, "critical_service_died" error, but most of the time it just ended up stopping without any error whatsoever. I checked my BIOS (ASUS Z170-A) and apparently it was up to date. I removed my GPU and tried using the IGPU on my 6700K, but it wouldn't output any signal. I took out all my drives, changed my boot drive out, still nothing. I'm at a loss. My thinking is that my CPU is dead, and its time for some new hardware. Problem is, I can't afford new hardware at the moment. Does anyone have any idea what is happening? Or, am I SOL? ANY ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

I have a MSI krait 3x Z170A mobo and after a reboot, the rj45 jack stopped working and I have tried to mess with the drivers and update windows but nothing has worked.

looking to upgrade my 6700k to help out on performance in games wondering if I should get the 7700k or get a whole new motherboard and CPU or just get the CPU that will work on the motherboard I own?

Last night I changed ram kits from a 2x 8g corsair vengeance 3000mhz to a 4x 8g Corsair RGB vengeance 3200mhz - and ever since I've had no connection to my display, my mice don't turn on, but my keyboard is like permanently illumanted.. but not to the colors I changed them to? I reset cmos, and the first stick illumanted out of 4. So I tried removing all other sticks, except the one lit up as if it were working, and still nothing. I've tried removing graphics card to try to force integrated graphics.. and still nothing. I also have had my original ram back in - and now it also does not work! So my whole computer is down and I'm not exactly sure why, and I'm running out of options - but I feel like there's no way all 4 of these Corsair ram sticks / or the dim slots on my mobo are dead.

Hi all I've just finished building my own PC for the very first time and I'm having some issues... My two 8GB sticks of 3000mhz RAM (Corsair Vengeance LED CMU16GX4M2C3000C15R) are only showing as 2133mhz in the BIOS/UEFI. I'm not overly clued up on this stuff, but I thought I could simply click the XMP button in the BIOS to 'ON' and that would bring them up to speed. But it doesn't work, I get an error on reboot as pictured below. (Overclock failed) My specification is: Z170A Gaming M7 MOtherboard with 1.F BIOS Update. Intel I7-6700K CPU. Samsung 950 Pro M.2 NVME SSD in slot M.2_2 Freshly installed windows 10 on the above drive. No graphics card - MSI GTX 1080 on the way. Antec 650w PSU. Deepcool 240mm AIO CPU cooler. My process for build was: Install all parts into case. Purchase genuine windows 10 and load onto USB via separate computer. Power on the new build and enter BIOS. Flash latest 1.F BIOS and reboot. Turn on AHCI. Install windows 10 onto Samsung 960 Pro. Download all drivers from MSI website onto usb and individually add them all via device manager. Download Samsung NVME driver and installed that. So far I've tried running one single stick in slot #2, then enabling XMP. This works. If I have only one stick in slot#4, I get the same error of Overlock failed. Can anybody help please? Thanks, Neil.

Hey guys!! I've recently put together a pc build and I'm not quite familiar with fans. My motherboard is the Asus-Z170A and I have the in win 303 case. So I have 7 fans in total (I know that's an absurd amount of fans but it does look awesome with it xD.) And that is the Thermaltake Riing 3 pin fans. Since i have so much, I was wondering if a Silverstone Fan hub of 4 pins control all my 3 pin fans? I sort of have mix answers of it running in 100% and some say it can control via voltage. Perhaps via Fan Xpert or Speedfan? Thanks!

does the krait gaming is a good motherboard? i dont want to spend more than 200 Euros and it has 160, so its on bugdet and the specs are fine too