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  1. As the title says, I've tried to make lip sync work to no avail. First I'll start with the components LG 65qned816re TV (2021) Yamaha RX-V6A Receiver NVIDIA Shield TV (2017) HDMI 2.1 certified Cables Teufel Speakers Both TV and AVR support eARC and "4K 120Hz HDR VRR" (the high framerate and VRR is only relevant when I want to use my PC with the setup) Concerning the Yamaha receiver As I've seen in another post on this forum involving a Yamaha Receiver, I cannot change the Lip Sync setting from "Manual" to "Auto". Are there any other Yamaha users that can chime in on this one? Concerning the LG TV I've tried the following setups: (note: all configurations have the audio ahead of the video, due to the TVs processing) Shield -> AVR -> TV The audio delay with 2160p24 has about negative 3-4 Frames of delay. Shield -> TV -> AVR (ARC) | TV's Digital Audio Setting set to Auto Lip-Sync is ok, but only a few audio formats work correctly, the rest either doesn't work or gets decoded to stereo PCM Shield -> TV -> AVR (eARC) | TV's Digital Audio Setting set to Auto Lip-Sync is ok, more supported formats but notably DTS:X gets decoded to stereo PCM, also the audio has occaisonal drop-outs Shield -> TV -> AVR (eARC) | TV's Digital Audio Setting set to Passthrough Lip-Sync is the same again as the first setup but all audio formats work (altough it takes a lot of time for the audio to start playing when it's multi-channel audio) Using the TVs built-in Apps seems to work fine though :/ Conclusions thus far No matter what I seem to try, the result is either sub-par audio format support and working lip-sync OR good audio format support and bad lip sync I've used test videos at different frame rates playing through Plex on the Shield TV, also tried some through the YouTube app on the Shield TV. All tested apps on the Shield TV exhibit the same amount of delay when there is delay to be observed. Question(s) to the community Am I just shit out of luck, or is this a common problem with Yamaha Receivers and/or LG TVs? What TV brands actually play nice with Yamaha Receivers? Do you guys think it's the TV or the AVR or the combination of the two? What I can't or won't do Turn off all the post-processing things on the TV as it uses a MiniLED backlight with Full-array local dimming which would make the TV as bad as an edge light panel when turned off Try anymore fixed offsets as the delay seems to be variable depending on the Resolution, Framerate and HDR of the source. Worst being 2160p24 with HDR Any feedback here is appreciated as I'm at my wits end... If I can't figure this out I'll return the TV and/or AVR.
  2. Let's start with some background. My school's computer club was granted money to purchase a TV, current-gen consoles, and a new AV receiver. We went with a Samsung Q80 something--4K, 65", 120Hz, the whole package. Alongside that, we purchased an Xbox Series X and a PS5, and followed the purchases up with a new Yamaha RX-A4A receiver. All incredibly expensive equipment by reputable manufacturers, so we assumed the setup would "just work." It did not. Let's dive in. RX-A4A The A4A is a 7.1-channel audio receiver marketed as being able to do full 4K120 HDR passthrough with ALLM, Dolby Vision, and other protocols being preserved via its many HDMI inputs and 2+1 (zone 2) outputs. Unfortunately, it does not properly broadcast this fact to the devices hooked up to it. This is likely due, as far as I can tell, to the functionality being added in a firmware update--it would appear that either whatever EDID database each connected device is looking at shows the A4A as not supporting higher bitrate content, or that the device itself broadcasts the wrong capabilities. It also completely disables video out whenever the screen blanks from a client device--i.e. when you load into a game on either console. God of War Ragnarok blanks till the end of the Santa Monica Studios logo segment, for example. This is similar to an older bug on 2020-era Samsung TVs where Game Mode would spam-toggle on and off during the early loading/splash screen segments of games. The A4A has less issues with EDID recognition on its second HDMI output, where it seems to pass through the host's information--the TV recognizes the input as the host device (i.e. the Xbox Series X tile shows up on the awful Samung game menu), and the device recognizes the display out as the TV. The HDMI out 1 is still needed, as it supports eARC and the second does not. These points likely related. However, the audio input gets automagically mapped back to the TV via CEC or some other detection protocol. Output over HDMI out 2 --> turn on console --> tv makes the game mode enabled high pitched awful noise --> audio input goes to TV and console cannot output audio. Trying to change the input blanks the screen, and then the TV gets some CEC input to switch back to HDMI out 1 carrying the eARC signal. This remains true even if you disable HDMI video output over the first port. Samsung Q80 I will not count the absolutely terrible interface (2021+) as a bug, but it should be noted that this is the single worst interface I have ever used on a TV, including the Panasonic Viera Link interface from 2010. I am talking ultra-bad. Anyway, the first issue I'll talk about is the broken audio passthrough interface. While the TV is perfectly capable of doing eARC audio, it will flat-out REFUSE to broadcast the ability to play anything above stereo, including on passthrough mode. Dolby is of course the exception here, but I would like 5.1/7.1 uncompressed to be available, and for some reason it is not. Using the PS5 or a PC, it is possible and easy to override the advertised capability. In Windows, you can just hit Configure in sound settings to select the configuration, and the PS5 has a nice, easy to interact with menu that lets you select the type of output device manually. With passthrough, it works flawlessly. However, the Xbox lack this capability, and will only give options for what the TV explicitly identifies as being capable of. The next issue is also with this so-called "passthrough." If the signal were being "passed through," there wouldn't be a second-long delay when using Atmos. Hooking the Xbox directly up to the A4A with HDMI output 1 (despite the incapability to do anything above 4K60/1080p120) yields perfect audio, with all options being enabled, and essentially zero audio latency. The TV should not add that much time and clearly, since it monkeys with the broadcasted capability, it is not actually passing through. This prevents me from using passthrough on the TV to circumvent the other issues. The TV has one last crippling issue that breaks key functionality: it reports different capabilities based on a predefined input list. Companies other than Sony have special tile icons for their devices on the TV menu, and each one goes along with a specific profile. This results in interesting behavior, where devices capable of more are restricted to what Samsung's profile thinks they can do. A great example comes from Switchroot Android. The latest update for the Android 10 version uses a device tree that identifies the Switch to other devices as in a Nintendo Switch (the previous versions showed as NVIDIA Shields). The Switch's stock firmware locks it to 1080p60, but the v1 is actually capable of outputting up to 4K30, and this capability is unlocked in Android and Linux. However, the TV sees a "Nintendo Switch" and assigns it the Switch profile. The Switch is then informed that the TV only supports up to 1080p60. Absolutely hilarious, and this bug has existed since at least the 2018ish models when Game Mode was new (haven't tested before that). That seems to be part of the issue with the first HDMI output on the A4A-that output is the only one that registers as the A4A and not the original host, and it likely is assuming the A4A is incapable of outputting anything better than 4K60/1080p120. It's also possible that the aforementioned A4A self-reporting issue is causing this behavior, but given I've seen this before I figured I'd mention it. Xbox Series X The big issue on this device is just that it takes whatever the output device says as law. On Windows, you can force your way over HDMI, be this by virtue of the GPU driver or some capability Windows has that Xbox doesn't expose. The audio passthrough issue seems to be worse on Xbox than other devices, but it's possible that it's just because my other devices don't support Dolby. PS5 The PS5 is able to override most of the bugs of the other devices, but has one weird quirk-when put through the A4A, while it seemingly can do proper video passthrough, We are prompted to redo HDR calibration every single time the device turns back on/is reconnected, even though the display information should be exactly the same. Additionally, though this isn't much of a bug and more of a missing feature, you can't properly control color space etc. for HDMI outputs on the PS5. Anyway, not sure if there's much I can do about this, but I highly doubt any of these companies care enough to help, so at least I get to rant. If anyone has found a solution, I'd love to hear it.
  3. I know you can connect speakers to the GOXLR on the line out or line in thats for sure but how can I connect 2 Yamaha hs 8 on one goxlr there should be a way if someone can explain to me how would be appreciated. thanks everyone who reacted
  4. Hi, I'm preety new to the Home theater side of things and I'm wondering if for the first setup I sholud get the Sony STR-DN1080 or the Yamaha RX-V6A. I have watched/read some reviews about bove of them. I know that the Sony can only handle 4K/60Hz passthrough but the Yamaha can theoraticly do 4K/120Hz (or at least with a PS5). There would be my 1st question: Is it actully capable of 4K/120Hz/HDR with a PS5? I would like the capability for "future proofing" but if it can't do it, it wouldn't be the end of the world. Another question would be what advise you have on which to get? Budget wise both fit very well. As for my usecase I primarly use my TV for gaming (PS5/Switch) and Blu-Ray watchingover PS5 as well as streaming over Netflix, Disney+, etc. Last but not least I would ask if you've got any recommendations on speakers for any one of these recivers. Thanks alot in advance :)
  5. So either my ears got hyper sensitive somehow to nuances in audio frequency or my WXA-50 got damaged. Should an amp produce static noise of any kind, on passive speakers? My Desk Setup: Mac Mini M1 + WXA-50 + 3020i Pair (with 3.5mm to RCA & Nakamichi banana plugs w/ 12 gauge spool) I quite literally HEARD the static noise, for the first time today. I thought it was an outside noise and ignored it at first, but then when I went close to the speakers, turns out there was indeed a noise coming out of the twitter, on both channels. It boggles my mind as to why this is the first time I'm listening to the static. I've been using this since August 2020 and at the time I was in a very quiet place too, compared to where I am right now. But never before; weird. So, here are things that I observed, and did to find out why it might be happening (while playing nothing). It's barely audible from normal desktop sitting position but the noise is there; if I'm in a quiet room and wxa50 has -10db or higher, you'll hear the noise. Specially if you switch to bluetooth from aux, you'll feel the speakers suddenly went quietER. The noise increases as I turn up the volume on the wxa-50 and it's not the aux-rca cable either cause I unplugged the aux cable from mac mini. Interestingly, the noise is tripled when there is nothing connected in the RCA input. But bluetooth input the noise is significantly reduced, like 1/3rd. And for optical it's the quietest (like almost non existent noise) So it's not the fault of the speakers either I guess. I turned off every electrical equipment including lights in my house to see if this issue is due to an electrical fault somewhere else. But the noise remains. For the past 5 months, I've noticed that sometimes when a fan or light in another room is turned off, there is a noticeable crack/pop in my speaker. Not exceptionally loud but loud enough to startle you when you are sitting alone in a quiet room. The fact that the speakers are not dead silent even when my computer is turned off is bothering me. Again, the noise isn't too much to interfere with daily tasks but with aux input it's really annoying me, and I can't figure out why I haven't noticed this before. If I touch the 3.5mm end of the 3.5mm to rcacable (rca connected to the amp), there is a strong tingling/vibrations. I'm using an outlet from the wall that is grounded and using a Honeywell surge protector that shows "Protected" in a green dot. Despite that, I discovered this noise today. Even right now, I have the max volume on WXA-50, and nothing playing from the computer side - there is a significant hiss / static noise going on. What is this? And how do I get rid of this?
  6. Hey guys, I use a pair of Goldring NS-1000s with a 1/4 inch adapter to plug them into my Yamaha RXV381 AV receiver. They sound amazing when you use the speakers on their own, but when I plug my headphones in, they sound quiet and slightly distorted. Haven't tried playing music, but have used them to try to watch movies online and Fresh Prince on Netflix and it's the same result. What should I do? Is there something I'm missing?
  7. Hello All, I have some questions. I play music at our house in an outdoor environment with my dad and another of his friends. We have 2 synthesizers, a PA3x and a Polysix, an accordion, a mic for vocals, and a miced Armenian Dhol. We play for around 40 people with the farthest person being around 60 feet away at our or our family friends' houses. I currently have a Fender Twin Reverb, 2 KRK RP5s, and 2 JBL LSR305s. All the instruments plug into a mixer, a Samson MXP124FX, and then the outputs of the mixer go to the studio monitors and the headphone out goes to the Fender Amp. The problem that I have with this set up is that when we start to turn the volume up, the amp starts to garble the sound, and the speakers stop sounding as clear. So naturally, I was looking into buying a good speaker that could replace all of that with 1 speaker, maybe 2 in the future. I was originally looking at the Yamaha DSR15, but when I walked into Guitar Center to get their opinion, The employee suggested that I should get the new QSC 12.2, claiming that it would be louder and better quality. He also said that the Mackie Thump 15s were a good option at a low cost, despite a lower build quality. I don't want to spend more than a thousand dollars, and I would prefer it to be a wooden case. What do you guys think I should do. I have never officially dealt with audio like this, nor have I invested this much in audio before, so I want to make sure I make the right decision. I'm still on the fence as to whether I should buy a new speaker at all, because I should really be spending that money on more important things, but we'll see. Thanks in advance for the suggestions.
  8. Hi, I've recently been trying to config my 5.1 channel audio in living room. I have the main audio output from my TV to the amp. But just want to know if I'm configuring it correct with the best possible audio. So far Im using the preset Stereo --> 7ch Stereo. Refer to this manual: https://au.yamaha.com/files/download/other_assets/0/317630/RX-V565_IM.pdf Any tips of guides on setup would be great. Im just a newbie when it comes to audio.
  9. Just need some help if anyone has had some experience with these receivers. I just bought a pair of Klipsch R-15m speakers and want to use a receiver to drive them in a 2.1 (possibly 2 or 3 subs). Also need a sub out to which I have a wonky setup for my sub(s). Currently the Pioneer VSX-531 goes for 299 CAD and the Yamaha RX-V379 for 329 CAD. My dad has a Pioneer VSX-921 that drives a 7.1 setup and does well so I trust the VSX series. Do you think the VSX-531K would be plenty for my speakers? R-15m Specs FREQUENCY RESPONSE: 62Hz - 24kHz +/- 3dB LOW FREQUENCY EXTENSION: 54Hz SENSITIVITY: 94dB @ 2.83V / 1m POWER HANDLING: 85W Continuous/340W Peak NOMINAL IMPEDANCE: 8 Ohms Compatible
  10. A while ago I moved houses, and I am just unpacking and setting up my home theater setup. The AV receiver is a Yamaha RX-V373, the speakers are some Yamaha setup, and a HTPC I built a while ago. The problem(s): Clickyish sound at the beginning of any audio with my HTPC. This is using the audio capabilities of HDMI. Double checked with a laptop, no click sound. Later I set-up the system in the final location and I couldn't get the HTPC to output any audio over the system, the video worked fine. Static/white noise underlying audio playback while using my test notebook. I did the same thing with my apple tv, far less/no white noise. This was tested using a 5.1 surround test YouTube video. I am a complete newbie regarding home theater set-ups so I really don't know what to search for. I did research what these problems 'could' be, none where plausible to me. Am I completely missing a setting in the system? Any help is appreciated!
  11. Hello, all... I have 2 problems, the first problem is the main one for now. I am using the MG10XU as previously stated and my PC does not recognize the microphone, when I go in Recording Devices it's grayed out. I am using a RODE NT1 microphone. FrontMic and Microphone have "Not Plugged In" status, which means that I can't use the microphone.. Currently I have connected to the Mixer the USB cable, Power Cable, 2 Audio Cables for the headphone sound, the Headphones themselves (HD558) and of course the XLR cable into the Microphone... The red Phantom Power button is on, the Gain and Level knobs are turned up and the USB/Line button is pressed. The second problem, which is still annoying but not that important at this moment is the USB cable gives me a very bad humming or static crackling when I plug it in. The sound is great all the way up to the maximum output when only the Stereo Headphone 3.5 cables are plugged in but the moment I put the USB in and there's a noticeable sound problem even when I am listening at half volume. I have the latest drivers installed from http://download.yamaha.com/search/product/?language=en&site=usa.yamaha.com&category_id=16506&product_id=1904369 I believe this is due to something called a "ground loop" which I do not know how to deal with right now, tried different power outlets, moved cables, changed cables etc... Any help would be greatly appreciated, thank you in advance!
  12. I'm in North India and the echoing of sound is a big problem in my house so I have to get advice and your opinions. Thanks in adv.My living room dimensions: 22ft x 17 ft x 11 ft and it's open to Kitchen, Drawing Room and Main Entrance.My space pics:1 - https://imgur.com/a/QGd3XC82 - https://imgur.com/a/G2KGMZe3 - https://imgur.com/a/NTcH7ZU4 - https://imgur.com/a/rk5LiOq5 - Drawing room is right in front of the TV area: https://imgur.com/a/D1sYio4So, I have been researching a lot lately and found a couple useful subs for me, it's gonna be my first real audio purchase and I don't want to have intolerable compromises. So for the main frequencies I chose YAS-108 and I don't wanna hear about the downsides of soundbars as they are hated on r/budgetaudiophile, r/audiophile and r/avporn. Hence, I'm just concerned about getting an ideal sub for my living room. Actually confused between 10" and 12". The ones I shortlisted are: Polk Audio PSW10 10-Inch Powered Subwoofer (Single, Cherry) https://www.amazon.in/dp/B00030CHQ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_IX56CbQT1KM01 (Rs. 18,900) [Fact check - It's Amazon.com's top-selling sub in fact and some users do report however that it sometimes gets boomy and that it doesn't perform good at higher volumes] Yamaha NS-SW100 https://www.amazon.in/Yamaha-100W-NS-SW-Subwoofer/dp/B06XRB1JZS [Fact Check - My favourite so far as it is the overall best value 10" sub I found so far but the aesthetics are considerably silent as the mesh grill seems non-removable but aesthetics are not my priority I just want accurate lows] Dayton SUB-1000 https://www.amazon.in/Dayton-SUB-1000-10-Inch-Powered-Subwoofer/dp/B0063NU3AA/ref=pd_rhf_se_s_cr_simh_1_1/257-3426226-0686741?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0063NU3AA&pd_rd_r=d6550fbc-ba32-475c-a680-6cafea7e9a86&pd_rd_w=U23sx&pd_rd_wg=8weLS&pf_rd_p=c0596f87-84a4-47f1-9082-813222812302&pf_rd_r=84ZBPS0CRQG1SJJVCKTN&psc=1&refRID=84ZBPS0CRQG1SJJVCKTN [Fact check - Redditers are praising its qualities but amazon reviews tell that the build material is poor (and some ironically say its very good) and tbh the woofer cone looks cheap and refurbished so Idk about this one, moreover this is way expensive than SW100 which is also 10" and 100W as this Dayton but but but...ironically its amongst the top rated subs on parts-express - https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sub-1000-10-100-watt-powered-subwoofer--300-628 so I am confused on spending that extra premium (12k INR expensive than the NS-SW100) and the SW100 is surprisingly $179 while the Dayton is just $119 while its the totally opposite here in India as this Mumbai dealer is offering me NS-SW100 at just Rs. 15,500 incl. shipping (222 USD direct equivalent). So what's your take guys in helping me out? Please take a look at my living space.
  13. all i need to get a high quality audio for my youtube videos and i have samson c03 xlr microphone and zoom h5 , did you think that i need mixer alone like yamaha mg10 or audio interface alone or two ( mixer and audio interface) ? please help REPLY
  14. New Yamaha AG06 mixer installed, my first mixer. Hearing a low static sound. How to fix? I have it setup like it was outlined in a previous thread: https://imgur.com/a/WD6Ic9x I noticed that the sound gets much louder if I turn the knob up for "MONITOR", I have all other knobs turned all the way down. How do I get rid of this super annoying sound? If it's something I have to buy, please link to it.
  15. Hi All Whilst paying off more bills I'm slowly working my way towards my completed PC build. The next steps are the audio, headphone wise I'm fine, but I'm getting 1 Yamaha HS5 to start with (compatible cable to 3.5mm jack comes with it) then will follow this up with another and then possibly a subwoofer afterwards. I know that people buy DACs/AMPs to use these with their setups as their onboard sound isn't enough to drive them/they get crackles. My mobo however is marketed as having very good onboard sound and I wondered if anybody knew if this was going to be enough to drive them without distortion. Here's a link to the mobo: https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Motherboard/X570-AORUS-XTREME-rev-10#kf Hoping someone more knowledgeable than me may know!
  16. Hello, I recently purchased a HD600. At the shop where I bought the headset, they allowed me to test the headset and they used a Yamaha AS300 and they used a CD player. I have a PC at home and was wondering if it is possible to use that AMP on my PC, or would there be any other suggestions for AMPs for the HD600? My budget is around $100. (Found a used Yamaha AS300 for $100) Thanks. I'm very new to all this audio stuff
  17. Hello, my Uncle gave me four Cerwin-Vega VS-120 speakers. I decided that I would set up a second home theater in my basement. I ran speaker wire, and have them all running off of a Yamaha RX-V773 reciever. I haven’t been able to get any audio, not even static! I checked the fuses on all of the speakers and they are all good. I’m not very well versed in this stuff, if anyone has any suggestions I would be appreciative, thanks!
  18. Hey! I have a couple questions about my Yamaha MG10XU’s headphone out power. In the specifications sheet (can be found here), it says that maximum power output of the headphone out is 100mW per channel before it clips on a 40 ohm line. I know that a headphone’s loudness also depends on the nominal sound pressure at a given voltage or power. Like, 100 dBSPL at 1mW/500Hz etc. Do you guys think that MG10XU’s headphone power output is decent enough to drive, for example, dt 1990 pro, HD 600/650. Secondly, is there a method to calculate power output of the mixer's headphone out to a different line instead of 40 ohm by using the given spec?
  19. Hi I'm planning to upgrade my pc audio and I want to get the Yamaha hs8 as well as the Sennheiser hd650, I am lost on what audio interface or DAC/amp to get as; I don't know anything about audio. I will be using it for leisure and possibly some video production and not to fussed on the recording.
  20. Hello all. I bought myself a LG OLED 65 B7A TV about three weeks ago and now I'm looking to upgrade my old receiver to a modern one that can handle Dolby Atmos. My head is swimming in all the different receiver information on the web. I don't have thousands of dollars to spend on the receiver, my budget is in the $400.00 range. I've found two different units that have peaked my curiosity. The first one is a refurbished Yamaha RX-V681 from accessories4less.com for $319.00, and the second is a new Onkyo TX-NR676 for $399.99 from Best Buy. Has anyone heard of Onkyo before? Do they make quality units? Would you lean toward the refurbished Yamaha that is 47% off the new price of $599.99? Or is there some other choice that you all think would be better yet? Let me know. https://www.bestbuy.com/site/onkyo-tx-7-2-ch-hi-res-network-ready-4k-ultra-hd-and-3d-pass-through-a-v-home-theater-receiver-black/5763442.p?skuId=5763442&cmp=RMX&extStoreId=869&ref=212&loc=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwwuvWBRBZEiwALXqjw5S9W0OBPi_JTkJwtbWCZ6vDXch53uyrLpd8Njx7JLAC5cqxApKw_BoCOdQQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/yamrxv681bl/yamaha-rx-v681-7.2-ch-x-90-watts-networking-a/v-receiver/1.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwwuvWBRBZEiwALXqjw9UWOjzXdsf3uwYzvHt-PAssuWsksdRPz6h7GFJPKvC28QxQBnW1uRoC-tgQAvD_BwE
  21. Hi, I use a Yamaha A-S501 amp along with some Dali Zensor 3 speakers and a Dali E-12F Subwoofer as my Hi-Fi PC Speaker setup, now the problem is that I would like to adjust the crossover for the sub, and normally that would be a rather simplistic affair of simply adjusting the knob on the back of the sub, however that is not possible as my amp does not have a "normal RCA output" but instead has the more dedicated "Sub Output" also known as LFE, for those that don't now the normal RCA output would have two RCA plugs whereas the sub out is a single RCA, now this is fine for subs as they are mono. the problem is that the subwoofer disables the built in crossover when LFE is used rather than the twin RCA plugs, this is because it expects to be hooked up to a receiver which would be including a built in crossover. however, as you may have guessed, my A-S501 does not feature a crossover that i can change, instead i have a crossover set to 100hz which i cannot change, and when your main speakers have 7" drivers and your sub has a 12" driver, this is not ideal, and i would rather have my crossover set at 50hz or 60hz. I have tried plugging the LFE from my amp into one of the "audio input" plugs on the sub, however despite using different ports on the sub the sub still detects LFE is being used and disables the crossover still, does anybody have any ideas on how this could work? my next idea would be to split the LFE signal using a splitter and plugging both into the subwoofer audio inputs in hope that because it is getting a left and right, or so it would think, it would not think i would be using LFE and would hopefully allow me to USE THE STUPID CROSSOVER FFS.
  22. I'm having an issue setting up my mixer correctly. My goal is to use this mixer to interface my Rode NT1 with my PC. I am currently using the USB connection to try and achieve this. However, when I'm in game and try to communicate everyone hears my game and desktop audio while my mic is transmitting. I currently have my output set to the mixer and I have my input set to the mixer as well. Both show up as "Line MG-XU". I am completely new when it comes to setting up audio for streaming and gaming using a mixer so any help would be appreciated. Oh and it was transmitting the desktop audio through Discord as well but I fixed that by using the FX out to my computers mic in port and setting that as the Discord input. Help me!
  23. Hey im in the market for new pc speakers and decided to get studio monitors but need advice on which to choose. Few that im looking at include: 1. yamaha HS5 $479 2. Presonus Eris E5 $449 3. KRK Rokit 5 G3 $419 4. Pioneer S DJ5OX $449 budget for speakers is around 400-600 (can go higher if big improvement in quality), all prices AUD. Should i get normal speakers instead 5.1 Logitech for example? which audio interface should i get, USB one maybe? eg presonus audiobox USb 2*2 $169 I do some mixing but not a lot mostly for listening to music and gaming(i have plantronic rig 500 headphone).
  24. does anyone here ride motocross, trials, enduro, supermoto? i would love to know. me personally, i ride/sometimes race motocross on my '08 ktm 125 sx and dabble in hare scrambles
  25. I've been researching into sub £300 studio monitor's for about 2 weeks now as I plan to get a pair very soon. I have been able to narrow my choices down to the Audioengine a5+'s and the Yamaha HS7's, I did think about the KRK ROKIT 6's but I've heard they're not quite as good as the other two mentioned. I'm not an audio creator or mixer, just an enthusiast who's looking to get into the audio game. Has anyone been able to compare these two sets of speakers? I'm looking to listen to high quality music, watch movies, play games etc. If I get the a5+'s, I'll be getting the Audioengine D1 dac with them too, I'm not sure what I'll be getting with the HS7's though. Could anyone help me out please? Size is not an issue, I can get them both for £300 for the pair also, so price is not an issue.
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