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Hello everyone! I ordered a second kit of 2x8gb DDR4 3000 RAM, the exact same I got a year ago. But they are not the same. Although the product hasn't changed from the outside or the stats, the inside has. I found out about this while looking at my SPD info. Some really small things about the RAM have changed, and I was wondering if these changes might affect my performance or XMP. I have some screenshots of the SPD info, so if anyone knows how serious the differences are, please tell me. All help is appreciated https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-Ar7q1-YfoEfoadRqRmsVA4SlEdo0u5r?usp=sharing

So essentially, I have an Xbox One that I occasionally use, the same one that I've used for almost six years now, and the most recent time I tried to sign in, it wouldn't let me. Entered my security pin, says I need a password. Entered my password, says I need to confirm with an email. No big deal, except my recover email is also dead. Enter in my new email, password again, and complete the captcha. Receive the recovery email, enter the security code. Tells me that is suspicious activity and locks my account altogether until they can 'verify my identity'. Again, this is all completely out of nowhere, have barely used this account in the past two years or so, just tried playing some xbox like normal and they lock my account. So I go to the recovery form website, enter my email, password, full name, post code, etc. etc. Complete another captcha, say that I use xbox. Enter my xbox username, and xbox network device ID. Enter part of my card details to confirm identity. End of the form, they send me another email, telling me that the information was not sufficient enough to confirm my identity and ask me to start the process all over again. I have gone through this entire process at least five times in the past two weeks, absolutely nothing has changed. Most frustrating and unacceptable of all is that because they locked my account 'for my own security', I can't access any of the xbox live or game pass features that I am still paying for using the same xbox I have used for the past six years. Even worse, is that again, because they blocked my account, I can't even cancel the subscriptions. So far I've been using an alternative email and an alternative microsoft account to play on my xbox, but I can't access any of my subscriptions on that account because of course they aren't linked because one is blocked. Tried everything short of actually waiting on hold for however long with microsoft support because I imagine the wait times will be even worse in Australia than the rest of the world. If anyone has any idea on how to fix this please let me know, if not, please spread this story, because again, I have done absolutely nothing to warrant this, it is entirely a gross incompetence on microsoft's part, for first creating the problem and then not even creating a genuine way to fix it. I fear this could happen to other people who simply stop using their recovery email, and if microsoft is doing this unintentionally, we need to bring their attention to it now.

so i recently received my new msi rtx 2070 super gaming x and thought the frames were a little of from what i expected and so i decided to revisit some benchmark vids i watched previously on it and compared them, shadow of the tomb raider was the one that showed the best the difference in the vid compared to mine so can anyone help me as to why im getting a solid 10 fps less than the video benchmark that has the exact same parts (other than the GPU being the gaming x trio) like correct me if i am wrong but here is something up with my gpu yeah?

Just saw this article. More and more things with Microsoft are going open source. Heck, the MS calculator app is open source and was even ported to Android. Do they really have a new perspective on the topic then about a decade ago? Here is the article: https://www.theverge.com/platform/amp/2020/5/18/21262103/microsoft-open-source-linux-history-wrong-statement?__twitter_impression=true

Hey, I've got a problem. Inside windows my time is always about 5 mins late. If I enter the time manually after restarting the time is 5 min behind if I set the time zone the time is always about 15 too late. I don't know why this keeps happening thank you for your answers.

Hi all! Straight to the point: In school we have internet on an RJ-45 connector. My IT teacher is a bit disorganised so he ordered two adsl routers (6-pin plug, with 1 and 6 unused). My question is how do I make things work? Someone please explain if those standards are compatible with eachother and if yes, then can you provide a pinout of both connectors so I can rewire things to work. Thanks in advance!

Ummmm did something goes wrong, I booted into windows and it looks fine to me but that message looks like my drives were put into raid mode Help!?!? Thanks

Hi! My firends tv-monitor's display went red all of a sudden. The monitor was not moved or damaged, one morning it was showing reddis on every input (D-SUB, DVI, HDMI, TV). However the colors in the menu layer are correct. I used different cables, disassembled the monitor, reseated the cables, and cleaned the connectros. There are no signg of damage or short circuit on the PCB. Any idea?

Hi All, I have a Z270-AR with an EVGA 1080Ti FTW, running in Win 10 Pro (Anniversary) My BIOS and Windows install for some reason takes place on the second display, however once drivers are installed correctly, everything displays as normal. To clarify, in Nvidia Control Panel, my primary monitor is correctly identified as "1" and my secondary, as Display "2". Using the Ctrl + P shortcut, it correctly displays/disables the monitor in question, so setting to Primary Only or PC Only works perfectly as it should. For reference - I have both monitors plugged into DP, on the two ports next to eachother - though not in the order I would have expected, however NVIDIA CP reports as 1 and 2 as expected. I believe there's a setting I can fiddle with in the BIOS that should fix this, MSI for e.g has WHQL Win 8.1/10 support, does this exist on ASUS? Any ideas guys? Let me know if you need any further info. Matt

Hi, recently I bought and built a new pc. I used a MSI Geforce GTX Gaming 1060 X 3GB. Specs: Intel Core i5-7400 MSI H270i Gaming PRO AC Motherboard 1TB Blue Harddrive by WD Deepcool Maelstrom 120T CPU watercooler Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ITX (Special Edition) case Be Quiet! Pure Power 10 500W PSU 8GB RAM (4x2) CORSAIR ----------------------------------------------------------------------- The thing is that once my GPU gets a bit hot 60+ celsius the fans are going full spin. After closing the game they won't stop spin until i turn my computer off again. I've tried waiting up to 1 hour, nothing happens. I've tried controlling them with MSI GAMING APP & MSI AFTERBURNER but nothing works. I've tried using fan curve in MSI AFTERBURNER but doesn't work. The CD that came in the GPU Box couldn't be installed since my ITX pc doesn't have a CD DRIVE BAY. So I installed the drivers that i found on the MSI website but they won't help against the fans. So if anyone could help me it would be nice. Thanks!

Hi, recently I bought and built a new pc. I used a MSI Geforce GTX Gaming 1060 X 3GB. Specs: Intel Core i5-7400 MSI H270i Gaming PRO AC Motherboard 1TB Blue Harddrive by WD Deepcool Maelstrom 120T CPU watercooler Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ITX (Special Edition) case Be Quiet! Pure Power 10 500W PSU 8GB RAM (4x2) CORSAIR ----------------------------------------------------------------------- The thing is that once my GPU gets a bit hot 60+ celsius the fans are going full spin. The fans doesn't spin until it reaches 60 celsius. After closing the game they won't stop spin until i turn my computer off again. I've tried waiting up to 1 hour, nothing happens. I've tried controlling them with MSI GAMING APP & MSI AFTERBURNER but nothing works. I've tried using default fan curve & custom fan curve in MSI AFTERBURNER but doesn't work. The CD that came in the GPU Box couldn't be installed since my ITX pc doesn't have a CD DRIVE BAY. So I installed the newest drivers that i could find on NVIDIA's website and I've tried MSI's drivers, while using DDU for uninstallation. So if anyone could help me it would be nice. Thanks!

Hi, recently I bought and built a new pc. I used a MSI Geforce GTX Gaming 1060 X 3GB. Specs: Intel Core i5-7400 MSI H270i Gaming PRO AC Motherboard 1TB Blue Harddrive by WD Deepcool Maelstrom 120T CPU watercooler Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ITX (Special Edition) case Be Quiet! Pure Power 10 500W PSU 8GB RAM (4x2) CORSAIR ----------------------------------------------------------------------- The thing is that once my GPU gets a bit hot 60+ celsius the fans are going full spin. The fans doesn't spin until it reaches 60 celsius. After closing the game they won't stop spin until i turn my computer off again. I've tried waiting up to 1 hour, nothing happens. I've tried controlling them with MSI GAMING APP & MSI AFTERBURNER but nothing works. I've tried using default fan curve & custom fan curve in MSI AFTERBURNER but doesn't work. I also noticed that the programs I've tried to use to control them shows that the fans are running at 0-RPM? The CD that came in the GPU Box couldn't be installed since my ITX pc doesn't have a CD DRIVE BAY. So I installed the newest drivers that i could find on NVIDIA's website and I've tried MSI's drivers, while using DDU for uninstallation. So if anyone could help me fix this, it would be nice. Thanks!

Hey Guys, I need some help. Recently, I installed USB Mobile Monitor to usb my tablet as a second screen for PC (http://www.usbmobilemonitor.com/usage.html). Big mistake. Now, its screwing with my USB stuff. Whenever I connect my keyboard in a different port than I normally use it in, USB Mobile Monitor drivers get installed for it and it doesn't work so I have to plug it in the correct port. Same case with my tab (Galaxy Tab 3). I'm not able to transfer files to and from it because the USB Mobile Monitor drivers keep getting installed. I have tried downloading Kies3 and different drivers but it's of no use. On the device it shows that its connected as a USB accessory and MTP and PTP are greyed out and I can't select them. When I plug the USB in it works as an MTP device for half a second then it starts showing as a USB accessory. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

So I was wondering why so many people laugh about puting a disc player in a build. Whats so bad about them?

I recently purchased a Samsung 960 Evo 500Gb for some well needed storage for a build I am making for my father. Now I didn't want to break the bank since I am not made of cash, so I bought a secondhand one off of KSL. The owner of this same SSD also sold to me a nice Asus X470 Prime for a cool $89. The SSD being $110. The mobo works fine, but when I write a program to the SSD, such as Sony Vegas, or Blender to make a test bench of the entire system, "Not enough Storage available" I have formatted, reinstalled and used other SSDs for the job and they work fine. I have no idea what to do.

Recently I've seen someone report about how Task Manager is inaccurate for CPU Utilization because it relies on the Base Frequency to calculate the CPU Utilization which is completely ridiculous as almost none of the CPUs these days run at those frequencies because of the boost functionality that is becoming more and more prevalent even in the low end. Another view of this is what if Microsoft wanted to focus on the majority instead to provide a more accurate tool *as they claim* in the article below, because custom built PCs are considerably lower in sales, well some OEMs might disable the boost functionality but not all of them do, HP for example lets the CPU Boost behave as intended which is arguably the biggest PC pre-built vendor, it's safe to say that most processors never run at Base Frequency. ---TESTING--- Onto the tests though, I've tested the CPU at different loads using this tool https://github.com/GaetanoCarlucci/CPULoadGenerator/tree/Python3/ I have an 8700K that is overclocked to 4.6Ghz while the Base Frequency is at 3.7Ghz, that's a 24% overclock over base, the Base Frequency is taken into consideration in Windows but my processor never goes below 4.6Ghz. 50% CPU Load 80% CPU Load 100% CPU Load This is where Task Manager becomes the most misleading because it is artificially limited to 100% when Resource Monitor is not, so in my scenario if the CPU load (reported by HWiNFO) is above 80% then Task Manager will report 100% because Microsoft has decided that a percentage scale should be between 0 and ??? because it calculates the percentages based on the Base Frequency where in my case the percentage scale in Resource Monitor is from 0% to 124%. That's not all though because in Resource Monitor the CPU column for the individual processes is actually being reported accurately, same in the Details Tab in Task Manager but not the Processes Tab or the Performance Tab, what's with all the discrepancy? it doesn't make any sense. ---Turbo Boost and Microsoft's response--- It becomes even more of a problem when the C-States are enabled and the CPU underclocks itself lower than base on idle then the usage reported by Windows will be lower than the actual CPU Utilization, you could test it yourself by underclocking your CPU lower than base and run a full core load, the CPU usage will never reach 100% in either Task Manager or Resource Monitor, and from my research it seems like this change was made in Windows 8 but back then they let Task Manager behave the same as Resource Monitor by letting it go above 100%. Here's the article that Microsoft released: https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/3200459/cpu-usage-exceeds-100-in-task-manager-and-performance-monitor-if-intel From my understanding they released this article because people kept reporting this as they didn't understand why this was happening, but it's quite appalling that their solution to this in later versions was to slap on a bandage fix and limit Task Manager to 100% so people would stop complaining, though from how they're phrasing it I'm assuming the intended purpose is to take Turbo Boost into account? but that's not what's happening here and even Microsoft themselves don't understand how percentages work because they say in the article "A processor that’s running 50% of the time and clocked down to 50% frequency performs only half the work of a processor that’s running 100% of the time at 100% frequency" that's not true, a processor that's at half the frequency and is running half the time will perform QUARTER the work of one that is running at 100% frequency and 100% of the time. Another thing I've noticed is the Third-party disclaimer on the bottom "The third-party products that this article discusses are manufactured by companies that are independent of Microsoft. Microsoft makes no warranty, implied or otherwise, about the performance or reliability of these products." Is Task Manager made by another company? or is that a general statement?

I have the Coolermaster CM Storm mouse and keyboard combo. Worked fine, actually it still does, except for the Mouse LED recently. They work but the colours are wrong now. It used to be 7 options. Blue, Red, Green, Purple, Yellow, Light Blue and White. Now some colours are dimmed or are just completely missing, and they're replaced by repeating colours. Is there a way to reset the mouse? I tried removing device through device manager but it didn't change anything.

Hi Everyone, Recently I noticed a white-ish spot(please see red circle) on my HP Laptop integrated webcam near the normal big circle, is it normal to be like that? What do you think it is? Could it be a water droplet? Is it normal to be there? Thank you in advance.

Okay so I did a fresh install of windows im in the process of redownloading all my games but I noticed that steam said it was installing after the download finished and this process took almost as long as the download. I opened up task manager as game 2 was downloading destination was drive C but activity for write was spiking on my HDD E once the download was done it said installing again task manager said drive E was reading at 100% 250 MBPS and drive C was writing at 250 MBPS. Anyone know how to fix steam downloading to the wrong drive so I don't have to do this install process anymore. To me the steam settings are correct and are as follows

I always wondered what happened after they awkwardly stopped mid sentence during the WANshow to avoid mentioning the site again. did something change with the site? or do they just not want to keep it going?

I'm getting ready to build a PC (my first tower PC) and I want to know -- 1) What are the chances that something will go wrong (aka part failure to work) 2) What do you do when that happens 3) How risky is it to build a pc 4) Is it possible to spend say $750 on a PC (like i'm going to) and nothing works at all and you totally waist your money 5) Does Newegg have a good return and or refund policy? Thanks.

Well I wanted to reinstall Windows and I couldn't because I needed a GPT style drive it said I made it GPT (btw no clue about drives and stuff) but now it says this btw only have my ssd connected. I got accss to another desktop if needed.Now I'm wondering if someone could just guide me though.

Hello, I recently chose to restart my computer, then windows decided I needed an update so it said "Getting windows ready. Don't turn off your computer". 1 hour later I started to get worried since the message didn't change or go away. About 6 hours later the message hadn't changed so I held the power button down to shut the computer down and I rebooted it, only to see it come back to the same message on the screen. It has been 14 hours now. Does anyone know how to fix this? Thanks

So at first when I got this computer back in October of 2014 when I got this PC it could run the games I often play (aka TF2) at max settings and hit like 200 FPS. Specs are EVGA GTX 760 2gb, 8gb of ram, AMD Radeon A-10 6700. It stayed pretty much constant but some time during the line I started getting horrid fps, like 20 to 30 where I shouldn't be, now mind you this was originally back on windows 8.1 and it has carried over to windows 10, Ive also reinstalled my OS and that didn't fix anything. Recently I halfway fixed it by overclocking my GPU and poking around at some settings in the NVIDIA control panel but Im still not getting that performance like I originally had. I have well over the recommended specs to play but I even struggle to maintain 60 fps in certain games. BIOS Version/Date ASUSTeK COMPUTER INC. (Licensed from AMI) 0307, 8/7/2013 SMBIOS Version 2.7

I installed a new heatsink, the Hyper 212 Evo, just wondering if there are anything I should look out for to see if I installed.it wrong.