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Budget (including currency): ~$500 CAD Country: Canada Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Various 3D CAD applications and video editing (a bit of KSP after work :P) Other details : - Existing parts to bring over: Quadro P4000, My old TV - Upgrading from i7 2600k with 16G RAM Final Build: Ryzen 5 3600x 16G DDR4 @3600mhz Quadro P4000 1tb PCIe4 NVME WB Black I figured that a few of you might enjoy this build I am quite happy with how it turned out and am writing this post from it right now. I own a company (TimberWolf Cycles) which makes custom high performance bicycles out of wood and so I have more tools for working with wood at my disposal which is why this case ended up being built this way. The purpose of the machine is general CAD work as well as some video editing which I plan to do more of for the business as time goes on. I generally leave my workstation on a desk at my shop but fairly frequently take it home, or (when not limited by COVID) would use it to show prospective clients the design of their custom bike. A laptop able to work hard enough for me would be quite expensive and I don't really need that level of portability. I also own a 2012 MacBook pro which is fine for word processing and emails or meetings when CAD work is not involved so I am not in need of a laptop. A desktop however has too many bits to carry when going place to place which led me to the idea of the "LAN Party Rigs" of my youth . The original "THE RIG" was just a regular ATX Case with a handle bolted on the top and a screen bolted to the side with a bent steel cover slipped over the screen when left in the shop. The was great! because I could just grab the handle and toss the machine in the car on the way somewhere. Problem is, it was HEAVY! Like 4 2010-era enterprise grade hard disks and a 750W PSU heavy plus the steel case, the screen, the surge protector I crammed inside, yada yada. It was also getting old and while the I7 2600k still packs a pretty good punch for these workloads, NVME was out of the question and PCIE 2 was a bit of a bottleneck for the Quadro P4000 I had acquired the year before to replace my aging (not well) Quadro 4000. I debated just refiling the case with new components but to really maximize the benefits of the upgrade, decided to give it some flair! I decided to build THE RIG MKII the other way around essentially. Rather than mount the screen to the case, I would mount the case to the screen. This let me shrink the case, and use a bigger screen in the form of my modest Samsung 30" TV that I didn't need and is bright and has a nice wide viewing angle which will be helpful for showing things to customers. I had to modify the TV Stand to tilt the TV up a bit so it would be comfortable to view from a desk, and also move the centre of the support back to keep it under the centre of mass of the combined unit. The case itself would have to stay thin for this to work out well so I chose an unconventional but very practical component arrangement that resulted in a 1U thick case. I didn't want the machine to be loud so commercial 1U PSUs were out. I ended up dismantling a PSU and placing the fan adjacent to the circuit board to draw air out of the case and over the heat sinks. I left space for an ATX board beside that but I would argue there would be very little reason to ever put a full ATX board in this thing and there would be no way to use the extra PCIe slots anyway. As it is, I use the X16 slot and one X4 slot for my WIFI card (I know you can get boards with WIFI obviously but this one came up for sale and the guy tossed in a WIFI card which actually is essentially a riser for m.2 letting me put in a wireless AX later if I like. Both slots are obviously connected via riser cables. The GPU which is really the heart of this machine is turned on its side overtop of the expansion part of the board with the fan facing the back of the case. This lets it draw its own fresh air and gives it its own exhaust. It can run full bore in this crazy tight case without warming up the case much at all. A sweet 1U CPU cooler with heat pipes keeps the profile low and also draws in fresh air directly but exhausts into the case. The PSU fan (which sucks air out of the case) is sized for a higher flow rate so even at max CPU fan speed the case is below ambient pressure. There are two small intakes near the VRMs that draw in make up air and keep those cool. All said and done, the GPU idles at 35C in a 21C room and the the CPU at 39C and each peak at 79C when fully loaded so I am very happy with the airflow design. The goal was never overclocking and the temperatures are very reasonable. The other motherboard temperatures including the PCIE4 NVME drive sit very steady at 40C to 45C no matter the load. The consistency of this temperature is optimal for NVME drive life. But what about shielding in a wooden case?! Most of you wouldn't likely care but I figured since I had unboxed the PSU (removed its shielding) and am building a nice stable workstation, I should shield both the PSU area of the case and the MB area. I did this with a combination of stainless wire mesh on the intakes, a fan grill on the main exhaust, and a lot of copper foil tape with conductive adhesive. I also used a more open mesh between the PSU and the MB to ensure that dust was less likely to collect inside and more likely to collect on the intake screens where I can vacuum it (remember I build wooden bikes so there is lots of dust at times!). The case is made of poplar core plywood with mahogany veneer and closed with MANY tiny brass screws which electrically connect the shielding. Inside the PSU area I did the other 120VAC connections including the leads to power the TV and a standard household socket on the side for my second monitor at the office, or a laptop charger or whatever. On the top of the case, I put the on-button (a button that used to be the engine start button in my old car made from a defrost button painted red) and the totally unnecessary RGB button from the PSU. Also on top of the case I put two front panel USB3 ports for thumb drives and a marine panel mount quickcharge 3.0 module wired into the 12V from the PSU. The Molex connector to power that was harvested from the ancient 128mb hard drive that I found had escaped many a tech purge . A very rare external port to add is found on the bottom which is a SATA3 data and power connector that I use with a cable I made up to connect a standard internal type optical drive if I want to burn a DVD for the old folks in my life etc. If you have any questions or want to build something like this yourself, jump in on this thread and I would love to chat (yes I also use an Orbweaver Chroma for CAD shortcuts... Sacrilege!) Tossed in a pic of the latest bike in progress for the the curious among you

Disclaimer: Okay, I am not an expert modder. In fact, this is my first endeavor into the trade so I would love to get some help from the community. Which is the whole reason that I made this blog. It is not, in any way, a guide. So with that out of the way, I'll start going into my plan so far. Quick Overview: Woodwork: Going for MDF over plywood was my first major choice as it will affect the budget for the rest of my build. My local builders merchant had a special so I grabbed a 2.5m by 1.5m, 9mm sheet for like £11. Once I have the Drawer bottom cut out and holed, I will test this with all the guts of my PC. To actually fix everything down, I am grabbing a 50 pack of M3 55mm screws and 100M3 nuts. This cost me arround £10 but is alot more that I hope to use. Screws: M3 screws will fit motherboard and radiator holes nicely and in my case, they fit my GPU too. This is a bonus because I can now mount my 290xs flat, and lower the height of the drawer. Length wise, 55mm is enough for the; front radiator, fan, filter and grill arrangement. Moreover, longer screws mean I can fix the motherboard and GPUs higher above the base for better cable management. Graphics Cards: As for my GPUs I intend to red mod my 290xs with Corsair H60s. I understand that circular coolers are easier to mod but at this time, I can get a refurbished H60 for only £5 more that a H55. 12 black cable ties where enough to mount the cooler well enough to get contact but I don't have any VRM coolers at this time so I could bench the card. Geil do some 290x/290 heat sinks but they are only available from the US, still waiting for them to turn up. Should only be a week now and they come with pads. I have some MX2 Compound for my cards and CPU and I will use small amounts of this for the VRAM sinks. RAM: My Avexir RAM is great but has yellow LEDs that will clash the the black and white color scheme. I could sell the and get some better RAM but that would take a while and cost me. So I went for just getting some basic black and while, full cover heat sinks to block the LEDs. Storage and PSU: Finally, I have a HDD and an SSD that I need to mount with velcro to the bottom on the drawer. Next to each other, the velcro should provde enough height for the SATA cable to attach. My PSU s the last component I need to fix into the case. More velcro for this, I will mount it with he fan facing down so I can cut out a hole and fix filters to the 120mm fan. I will also cut ventilation holes in the bottom portion of the case to allow air to get the the fan. Bottom Compartment: This bottom compartment will also hold all the elongated cables so I can open the drawer fully without having to unplug anything. Cut off from the drawer by a rubber grommet so that no air can escape this way, I will have three 120mm fans at the rear of the case to match the 120mm rad and fan arrays at the front. Whats next? The next entry will be on the GPU; modding, testing, overclocking and benching. For much more detailed look at this, check out my other blog £Smokey Attempts: The Red Mod". Thank you. :)

I know there have been a lot of Desk PCs built on this forum and around the internet, but I have one complaint, the PCs are always awesome but the desks are often...meh. With this build I am building a live edge walnut slab desk then cutting it to shreds and putting in a way over the top water cooled PC. I have built the desk already and I made a video about it on my YouTube channel, but I won't link that here unless someone requests it (I don't want to break the self promotion rules) The system that is going into it features: Threadripper 1950x 64 GB of Corsair Dominator RGB 2x400 GP Corsair NVME SSD 2x1080TI Gigabyte Waterforce WB edition Gigabyte X399 Gaming 7 1200 Watt PSU from Corsair Full Hardline Acrylic water cooling loop for ModMyMods.com (mostly Alphacool components) Now let's chop this mother up!

I finally got all of the hardware for new wooden PC build...I have two builds going right now actually, I'll post the other one separately. I made this video of building the case a long time ago and it was on its way to Siggraph for the VEGA launch when UPS apparently drop kicked it. UPS killed the case, and now I need to fix it, and then build the system now that the partner VEGA cards FINALLY came out. Parts list below. Any tips? AMD Ryzen 1700x Gigabyte VEGA 64 Corsair H100i V2 Corsair DDR4 3200 LED 32GB Corsair M400 240 GB Corsair 1000 watt PSU Gigabytte x370 K5 Corsair and NZXT fans Build video and finished pics coming soon.

Hi! I am a Finnish engineering student, from Finland (oh sh** Sherlock). I am building this summer a wooden PC out of wood. My goal is to make it so that motherboard lays in level and the PSU and storage are located on the bottom floor. Design is similar to the Corsair 250D. I am planning to use princesstree (not sure it is really called that in English) which is quite cheap but still looks good. As a student I have not much money nor willingness to spend large amount of money. For that reason I will be recycling most of the parts of my old computer. Part list: Intel I5-3450 (owned) MSI B75MA-P45 (owned) Gigabyte GTX 660 OC 2GB (owned) Chieftec CTG-750C (owned) Kingston HyperX Fury 16GB DDR3 1600MHz (to be ordered) Kinsgton HyperX 3K 120 GB SSD (owned) WD Blue 500GB HDD (owned) Thermaltake Contac 21 (owned) Corsair AF series fans Some fan controller I am open to any suggestions, tips, comments and feedback. I know this wont be easy as my first real modding thing but i'll do my best. Hope you like it. And finally have some renders: