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Budget (including currency): 5000€-6000€ Country: Catalonia Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Machine Learning, CAD, Rendering, playing Monitors Double monitors in programmer configuration, left(auxiliary) vertical, right(main) horizontal Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): Mobo: MSI MEG Z790 ACE MAX EATX LGA1700 Motherboard CPU: Intel Core i9-14900K 3.2 GHz 24-Core Processor CPU Cooling: Optimus Foundation Intel CPU block RAM: VENGEANCE® RGB 96GB (2x48GB) DDR5 GPU: NVIDIA Founders Edition GeForce RTX 4090 24 GB Video Card GPU Cooling: HEATKILLER V PRO for RTX 4090 FE - ACRYL Ni-Bl aRGB Frontal radiator: EK-Quantum Surface S560 - Black Fans: NF-A14 industrialPPC-24V-3000 SP IP67 PWM Case: DIY aluminum-wood case Hello ladies and gentlemen, I am creating this thread to share with you my DIY computer plan. I want to build a personal workstation for home that will allow me to code my machine learning projects, do CAD and render 3d models. Additionally, I will also use the machine to play, but that will be minimal. I want this pc to serve me for a long time so after months of investigation I have decided to choose the MSI MEG Z790 ACE EATX as the core of this build. I believe this mobo will grant me a good balance between RAM size and RAM speed. It will also allow me to add a second GPU in the future and has thunderbolt4 capability, which was a must for me in order to perform fast external data transfers. I was considering other options such as: Z790 AORUS TACHYON , Z790 AERO G , ProArt Z790-CREATOR WIFI or EVGA Z790 CLASSIFIED, 121-RL-E798-KR, LGA 1700, Intel Z790. I am designing a DIY pc case. The concept of the case is to maximize airflow while at the same time I can count on a large area to radiate heat with a water loop. The case is tall and slim to promote natural circulation of warm air from bottom to top. Also, it looks nice. Top will exhaust, bottom will intake, and frontal side will fit a quad noctua fan ekwb radiator. I am attaching the first sketches of the case. I will be expanding this thread shortly. Current state (21/11/2023): Current state (19/12/2023): Current build state (05/03/2024):

These are some renderings of a case I am designing it is almost out of cad. I have been doing some fabrication test runs for critical features. It is modern, minimalist and made almost entirely of wood (probably going with Bamboo lumber). I simulated a 4090 and the hottest CPU I could find and it just barely can handle it, in an 80F room. (Not that i'd put those in it, I'v just got a Ryzen 3600 & RTX 3070). I'll have to run an actual flow sim not just do the ideal heat transfer but i'm really trying to keep the fans just to the bottom and the back to keep the minimalist and simple aesthetic. I also want to redesign the fan greats. They are being made on a CNC router anyways so anything that can be cut out with say a 1/8 inch radius ball end mill is possible (Input welcome). I think it will be pretty easy to add Hard drive and SSD mounts, but they are hardly required these days with m.2 storage so cheep OH. I still need to figure out if i'll be doing a glass or solid wood side panel. The side panel will be magnetically attached, no hinges and a curved 2 inch handle hole on the front seam to get into it. or a simple small fabric tab if I go for the glass. Not sure which I will go for. I think the manufacturing cost will be about $400 ($300 material, $100 labor) maybe more if I do the glass (I haven't found a glass manufacturer or vendor yet. But i'v talked with a local wood craftsman about making it sounds like the labor will be about $100 (Still way cheeper than buying all the required tools myself) I also need to figure out what the heck I am doing with the rear panel IO shield. It is kinda a tough situation, they are built to clip into sheet metal and the thick wood does not lend itself to that. I could machine down a thin lip to emulate the sheet metal but not 100% sure it will work. I can't seem to find a blank IO shield online to test this idea out on. Any help on the IO shield would be great! I think I have the PCIE slots figured out even though they are not modeled here yet. For the cable management I am planning to make a few stand off poles with 1/8inch bamboo plate on them to hide and route the cables under. So, tell me what you think? Please read the above thoroughly before asking (what about this feature) any additions or solutions to existing problems come to mind? Alot of time has gone into this and I really want it to be a beautiful professional product (honestly 1/2 thought about commercializing it but its kinda expensive af lol). Thanks for your help! Bamboo Lumber Texture Reference:

About a year ago an idea hit me right in the head about putting a screen into a guitar, from there the idea snowballed into a whole project that has been in the development for quite some time now, but now it's finally turning into reality. This development process really kicked my butt from the start with all the logistical ideas on how things would connect, what parts to use both in the guitar and what computer should I put in. In later stages a lot of time was spent on making my own computer case that would allow me to insert and remove the computer with relative ease, as if you want to upgrade parts down the road. This project also got me into 3D printing since that was the best way to make such small case with all the necessary features, as it did allow me to rapidly demo out ideas and concepts. The current build details include these parts (can be subject to change as the project goes on): PC: - Minisforum UM560 (16Gb ram + 512Gb M.2) - choose just because its a powerhouse of a pc, has decent cooling solution that alows me to exaust the head out with relative ease, also fits perfectly in the guitar body thickness wise. it also has a display port type C on the front that is going to be used to power the display in the guitar. LED stuff: - Micro LEDs APA102 - 200 LED/M - found LEDs with great density and width that fits perfectly into the edge binding of the guitar (tested how it's going to turn out before hand, light is not that well defused, but that is to be expected when there is only 2mm of resin between the LED and the outer edge so I can live with it) - ESP32 board - I am using two of these to power and control LEDs in the neck and body separately that i can later combine in to one using WLED, planing on having it soundreactive, that can be done through WLED or LEDFX DISPLAY: - WaveShare 7 inch QLED display: I am using it since it's about the biggest display I can fit between the bridge of the guitar and the neck and it has a decent way of mounting it GUITAR PARTS: Bridge: GHOST ResoMax NV - The only reason I'm using this bridge is because of the display that's in between the bridge and neck, there is no place for normal guitar pickups. But there is also another problem when it comes to picking up noise from the LEDs or the computer it's self, that's why I choose a bridge that has pizza pickups in it that allows me to pick up the sounds the string produce with no noise from the LED light. The plan is for this guitar to have the ability to be played as a normal guitar, have on board recording capabilities, casual gaming/working, RGB edge binding that reacts to the music you're playing on the guitar, or the music on the PC its self. here are some progress fotos so far! Guitar body before the edge binding is on and unpainted Computer case End goal for the body So much testing It fits, it sits

In a related post I mentioned that I was experimenting... Making a new case... pictures I'm providing shows my current progress and the plan for how it will be configured. The point of view of the diagram will have a plexiglass side panel to allow for RGB lighting later on. Thoughts and input welcome.

tldr: I need help with a case layout. So i have a woodworking shop at my disposal and planning to build a custom case for my new pc. My main priority is for the pc to make almost no noise when the cpu is under load because i have a small bedroom studio and need minimal noize coming from the pc. (GPU noise is irrelevant since it is basicly at idle when using fl studio). So im planning to go for a fanless solution for the cpu. I'm going to be getting an intel 11400f and putting a Phanteks PH-TC14PE on top of it with no fans from what i have researched its one of the best fanless solutions for the price. Im going to be putting the cpu into a mini itx board and whatever gpu i can get my hands on for some light video editing. I have had a play with some potential layouts of the case but I would love some suggestions as I feel stuck. (Also i will probably use a pcie extension cable)

It’s finally finished! My first ever PC, and it is way cooler than I thought it would be (both literally and metaphorically)! I’m really excited to show it off, so I’m going to stop typing and let the pictures do the talking. Bits and Pieces: PC Parts: A scrap PC case from a friend Asus TUF GAMING X570-PLUS (WI-FI) ATX AM4 Motherboard AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor EVGA RTX 2070 Super Corsair 850W Power Supply Crucial Ballistix RGB 16 GB DDR4-3600 Memory Crucial P1 M.2 500GB Western Digital Green 1TB SSD Desk and Stuff: IKEA Fredde Desk ASUS Tuf Gaming VG27AQ 1440p 165Hz Monitor Corsair keyboard Corsair Harpoon RGB Wireless Mouse Here is a link to a more full build log if you’re curious. My dream is for Luke or Linus to mention this on the WAN Show. Sorry for making two threads on this. I didn't realize my old one would jump to the top of the list with a new post.

As the title implies I want to make a new Case for my current rig. I have experience with woodwork so I can make a very personalized build and get the whole rig to be more compact. I´ve done a bit of research about the topic and the majority warns about heat dissipation and EMI shielding. I could deal with the heat through ventilation but I have no idea how to go about EMI shielding. Ive read that I should use metal (from an old case) or metallic paint for the insides to deal with EMI. Secondly how would I go about grounding my motherboard, powersuply etc.. ? Thanks for the replies in advance.

Hello LTT community! Finally upgrading from the Fx Platform. This was not my first build, though it was my first hard tubing job. Some of you may notice the slanted tubing, the first mobo I had failed and I had this Gigabyte 970A ds3p on hand. Luckily the socket location was close enough that the original tubes fit. At the time my intentions were to just get the pc working and in a year or so upgrade and redo the loop. Well its been 5 ish years since that day and the time has come! Old build -R9 380 w/ Painted Shroud (upgraded this to a gtx1650) -EK water block and fittings -PETG tubing -Alpha cool reservoir -XSPC Rad -Cougar A500 psu -Corsair sp 120's on rad -Fractal silent series R2 exhaust fan -White 24 pin and pcie cable extensions -Kingston 250gb and Samsung 1tb ssd -Gigabyte 970A ds3p Motherboard -Fractal Design Define C case New Build - GPU to be (determined) gtx 1650 for now -R5 3600 - Stock AMD Wraith cooler -MSI B550m Mortar wifi Motherboard -Cougar A500 psu -Fractal Define C case -Corsair sp 120 exhaust -black Corsair fans x2 intake (not sure on the model they came with a case) - Kingston and Samsung ssd (same as old build) Moving away form liquid cooling for now. I may do a custom loop again but I specifically want to use a tower cooler. I'll be reusing the Define C case for this build with a few modifications. My goal is a "classy" aesthetic also I want to incorporate wood into this build. The top of the case has a removable panel, also there is a cut out in the bottom shroud with a removable panel. I remade these panels using mahogany and painted the rings on the corsair sp fans the match. Waiting on motherboard and ram now.

Whats Going On?: Almost as soon as I started mocking up the layout of the drawer, I found that the total thickness would be too much for an under desk drawer. Moreover, the width and height of the case would bee too much to fit, practically, on my desk. With careful consideration to the style of both my office and the PC, I am going to be swapping over to a PC on the wall. However, I will still be building a PC into a drawer. I plan to sue older 939 socket era hardware and some passive cooling solutions to make a work PC that will have hot swap HDD bays, small boot ssd and will fit entirely into a 1.5U sized drawer. I was limited by the magnitude of the hardware in this build, VRM overheating and other unforeseen troubles have lead me to re-work the basis of my build. I plan to adapt what I already have to fit onto the wall, rather that into a desk. The biggest advantage to this would be dropping the cable mechanism that I had planned for the drawer. In order to be able to extend the PC while still in use I would have added 50mm to the thickness of the case. Doesn't seem a lot now but because I can not change some other sizes, I should be able to slim the bulk of the case down, barring the 120mm fans which have to be 120 thick. The Smokey's Chronicles blog has a post entitled Important! which you can actually vote on. If I get more of you asking for a drawer then I will go and build it with this hardware. Please keep in mind that there will be a PC In A Drawer just not with this hardware. Thank You :)

Disclaimer: Okay, I am not an expert modder. In fact, this is my first endeavor into the trade so I would love to get some help from the community. Which is the whole reason that I made this blog. It is not, in any way, a guide. So with that out of the way, I'll start going into my plan so far. Quick Overview: Woodwork: Going for MDF over plywood was my first major choice as it will affect the budget for the rest of my build. My local builders merchant had a special so I grabbed a 2.5m by 1.5m, 9mm sheet for like £11. Once I have the Drawer bottom cut out and holed, I will test this with all the guts of my PC. To actually fix everything down, I am grabbing a 50 pack of M3 55mm screws and 100M3 nuts. This cost me arround £10 but is alot more that I hope to use. Screws: M3 screws will fit motherboard and radiator holes nicely and in my case, they fit my GPU too. This is a bonus because I can now mount my 290xs flat, and lower the height of the drawer. Length wise, 55mm is enough for the; front radiator, fan, filter and grill arrangement. Moreover, longer screws mean I can fix the motherboard and GPUs higher above the base for better cable management. Graphics Cards: As for my GPUs I intend to red mod my 290xs with Corsair H60s. I understand that circular coolers are easier to mod but at this time, I can get a refurbished H60 for only £5 more that a H55. 12 black cable ties where enough to mount the cooler well enough to get contact but I don't have any VRM coolers at this time so I could bench the card. Geil do some 290x/290 heat sinks but they are only available from the US, still waiting for them to turn up. Should only be a week now and they come with pads. I have some MX2 Compound for my cards and CPU and I will use small amounts of this for the VRAM sinks. RAM: My Avexir RAM is great but has yellow LEDs that will clash the the black and white color scheme. I could sell the and get some better RAM but that would take a while and cost me. So I went for just getting some basic black and while, full cover heat sinks to block the LEDs. Storage and PSU: Finally, I have a HDD and an SSD that I need to mount with velcro to the bottom on the drawer. Next to each other, the velcro should provde enough height for the SATA cable to attach. My PSU s the last component I need to fix into the case. More velcro for this, I will mount it with he fan facing down so I can cut out a hole and fix filters to the 120mm fan. I will also cut ventilation holes in the bottom portion of the case to allow air to get the the fan. Bottom Compartment: This bottom compartment will also hold all the elongated cables so I can open the drawer fully without having to unplug anything. Cut off from the drawer by a rubber grommet so that no air can escape this way, I will have three 120mm fans at the rear of the case to match the 120mm rad and fan arrays at the front. Whats next? The next entry will be on the GPU; modding, testing, overclocking and benching. For much more detailed look at this, check out my other blog £Smokey Attempts: The Red Mod". Thank you. :)

Ok so a week or two back I stumbled upon some sweet looking in desk pc's. Now, I really enjoying building both computers and things like desks so I thought why not? I've been meaning to do a new build and haven't been able to get to it, so this is going to be the new project. Finally yesterday I was able to head down to Lowes to pick up the materials. I decided to go with 3/4 inch MDF due to its strength and it's ease of use. I also bought a 18 x 24 piece of acrylic for the window. So now here's the thing, the 4 x 8 sheet of MDF has to if in the 3 x 5 bed of my car. As you can imagine....it didn't really work. The final result being the sheet of wood half hanging off the car, strapped down by twine and bungee cords. This huge piece of wood is like a sail, and I'm trying not to get blown of the highway by it. I'm almost home, after driving 45 down the highway with my flashers on and what do I see ahead. Police check point. As if this shitty drive couldn't get worse. So I hang a hard u turn and head back in the other direction...causing the wood to slide out of the back. Finally after my 3 hour journey, I had made it home with the supplies, completing the first step of my build. Hoper you enjoyed, I'll be posting random updates on it so make sure to keep up.

Ok so a week or two back I stumbled upon some sweet looking in desk pc's. Now, I really enjoying building both computers and things like desks so I thought why not? I've been meaning to do a new build and haven't been able to get to it, so this is going to be the new project. Finally yesterday I was able to head down to Lowes to pick up the materials. I decided to go with 3/4 inch MDF due to its strength and it's ease of use. I also bought a 18 x 24 piece of acrylic for the window. So now here's the thing, the 4 x 8 sheet of MDF has to if in the 3 x 5 bed of my car. As you can imagine....it didn't really work. The final result being the sheet of wood half hanging off the car, strapped down by twine and bungee cords. This huge piece of wood is like a sail, and I'm trying not to get blown of the highway by it. I'm almost home, after driving 45 down the highway with my flashers on and what do I see ahead. Police check point. As if this shitty drive couldn't get worse. So I hang a hard u turn and head back in the other direction...causing the wood to slide out of the back. Finally after my 3 hour journey, I had made it home with the supplies, completing the first step of my build. Hoper you enjoyed, I'll be posting random updates on it so make sure to keep up.

I have attached a photograph of the Pc case I am trying to replicate. It would be amazing if anyone here happens to have the tutorial or blueprints for the case that would make life easier. But alas its not going to be that easy I feel like this case is probably the best looking case I have ever seen in my life plus this would go perfectly in my room where I have wooden flooring and a wooden desk. This would be the cherry on top. I am a novice PC builder haven't done anything DIY ever so that's mostly why I am stuck. If someone is kind enough to help me draw out the blueprints for it I would like one slight change for it to have glass panels since where I live there is a lot of dust in the air and an open air case wouldn't survive 2 days. Anyways, first time posting on this forum sorry if I posted in the wrong section or something PS: If out of some miracle someone at LTT see's this I believe they would be equally impressed and it might end up getting built. So if anyone reading this is like an admin or anyone here knows how they could get this picture somewhere where someone at LTT would see this steal the picture by all means. I just want to see the case built and see how

Has anyone had a lot of experience with CNC machines? Are there any recommendations? Price over performance and other questions like that. Just thinking about doing some CNC projects and want to make sure I start off on the right foot. Thanks for all input. EDIT: Realized as I was on some other forums, that I should include price. I am thinking $500 give or take. But I am all up for creativity.

Hi, I want to make concept for custom wooden case. I do not have spare parts to experiment with and I cannot find much information regarding PC parts manufacturing standards, norm etc. Please help me out with either some keywords, dictionary, or some resources on dimension, ISO, standars in general. My google searching was rather unfruitful.And i need to search, from where to where is PC-E slot, what size is IO shield (or is it MoBo specific), and ton of other measurements. So there would be a lot of questions and I do not want to bother you with all of them. Please help me out with some resources on PC part dimension in general, slots, expansions, screws, holders, standardized dimension of coolers and so on. As I mentioned before, I do not want to bother you with all of this singular questions. But i would appreciate some info, general resources, standards, norm and so on. But I do not now all required terminology and slang. I do not consider myself as computer illiterate person, I know how to google, but i do not know how to google for this specific problem. I know how to build a custom PC. But if I want to design something, it need to be useful and functioning. And not pulled randomly out of my nose and eyeballed. CNC does not work that way. Thank you very much in advance for any tips and directions! Best regards Oltskul

So, I've got a strange set of requirements for a desk. I'm looking for a cheap desk (roughly a hundred or less) that allows me to have my three 23 (from left to right) inch monitors and my speakers as well as enough lip room to attach clamps for a microphone arm and allow my left and right as well as central speaker and my Qck XXL Steelseries mat with my keyboard and mouse. I don't want a glass space to rest things on but I am open to the idea of having a keyboard tray tucked underneath (if it can accept my 36 inch by 16 inch mousepad). I'm running a full tower case and it'll be tucked underneath.

hello Since im new on this forum please forgive me if im posting this in the wrong forum section. This case design was made as part of my "wood designer" school project for which i have to came up with design of an object from mostly wood, that can be then reproduced in most mid/high equipped workshops. For starters the case would be made from any type of hard wood (teak, walnut, mahogany, beech, oak...) with full tempered glass panels on the sides, most of the parts in the case would be secured with black alu thumbscrews, the front i/o would have standard audio in/out and 2/4 usb 3.0 connectors, power and reset button, case would support 1x 120mm fan on the back, 3x 120/140mm fan on top, 2x 120/140mm fan on the front, 1x 120mm fan on the bottom and have a ventilation mesh on the bottom for the psu. Case outer dimensions would be (LxHxW) 540x560x250mm. Case would look something like this if made from teak: note: that there is no fan mesh and i/o drawn yet now i need following suggestions/feedback/ideas: where to put front i/o ( reference pic below) -on the bottom? -on the top? ... where to put power and reset button -also same spots is there enough fan slots? are cable management holes well placed? is case to big? should glass panel be fogged around the edges? is case visually appealing? ... and here is a side view of the case if u need it Any feedback or idea is appreciated

My idea is to make a computer case that's more congruent to furniture and interior design... rather than electrical boxes in an industrial setting. The first picture below is one of the many I used as inspiration [I will not copy this design]. 1. Below, what do you see? The armrest from broken Swedish chair? I see a computer case. 2. The layout. 3. Frame pieces all cut to size. 4. Gluing things that are not at right angles always takes some creativity. Here I had to add non-stretch ribbons to the clamps to pull the different angles together. 5. I tested a few different hinge types, and decided simplest was best. 6. Rear panel and mobo tray went in with no problems. 7. Front Panels: I used 1mm mild steel [because I had a bunch laying around]. The first one looked good on paper but after I made it, I didn't like the radius of the bends. Then I made one with a simpler 'C' cross-section, hated it. I wound up trashing at least 3 or 4. 8. Finally decided on this. Here I'm trying to get the 1mm gap lined up, and get the pilot holes drilled. 9. Front Panels done. This took way longer than any of the other operations because the tolerances had to be kept under 1/2mm [not fun]. 10. Rear panel framed in too. 11. With a temporary psu I started looking at what internal structure needed to be added. 12. Space for 3 x 120mm fans that will draw cool air from the bottom. The hot air will exhaust from the top because warm air naturally rises. 13. Changed my mind about the placement of the hard drives. Put in a crossbeam behind the mobo tray so the interior parts have something to attach to [it is parallel to the floor but the different angles might give the optical illusion that it's tilted]. 14. Created this triangular bracket because both the front and rear components are at an angle, and I wanted to tie them together solidly. 15. Power switch finished. Frame stripped down ready for paint. 16. Another view of power switch. 16. The case is Finished! It's covered with nylon fabric so... a) if you put 'awesome' components in it, you'd be able to see them from any angle; b) no heat is trapped inside; c) less dust gets in. 17. Front: the 'on' button is under the fabric but the ring around it glows when powered-up. Originally I wanted to hide the button when it's off, but the cloth turned out too see-thru for any hiding. 18. Right side panel can be removed with 4 screws. 19. Back view. 20. Bottom view. 21. Left panel swings open w/ just 2 screws, giving access to the entire interior. 22. Hard drive area fits either 1 SSD and 3 HDD... or 2 SSD and 2 HDD. 23. Detail of upholstery. In Its Environment: 24. If I wanted to use it as an entertainment computer, it could sit by the TV. [I know the 'holes' in the back are distracting, but they should all be filled w/ components, making the whole thing visually more solid.] 25. A slightly more 'sculptural' location. 26. I think it fits best here by the couch. Theoretically, I could use a wireless keyboard and the TV as a monitor.

I wanted a small case without a window that looks very neat and premium. As I couldn't find such a thing and i had a little time to spend, I thought why not build one myself. Wood is very easy to work with (you can just glue everything together), looks amazing and isn't too expensive. I really like the looks of the dark wood combined with matte metal. Here are some pictures: nearly finished case first design on the left, later design on the right (sketchup) final design interieur layout, gpu not shown for better visibility. the cables come out the top. Both the top panel and the rear panel are removable. The first for accessing all the I/O ports on the motherboard / GPU, the latter for maintenance. Moving on with some pictures of the building process: front I/O cutouts with recesses (made with a dremel), for (top to bottom): headphone jack, microphone jack, 2x USB3.0, vandal on / off switch bottom panel with cutout and recess for the SFX power supply. It draws air from the buttom and exhausts it out of the left side. Motherboard tray mounted to the side panel. The two rails were used from an old case, mounted to an aluminum sheet. All of the inside was coated with a layer of graphite "paint" and earthed (EMI protection) Thats the top panel with the motherboard cutout. On the top theres the reset switch and the HDD LED (not visible from the front) and a fan grill. Thats the finished build from the back. The back panel holds on with 2 magnets to the metal brackets. The fan was mounted on the CPU heatsink in pull, so that there's no problem exhausting the air out of the back (since there are no more fans). A plastic shroud prevents the hot PSU air from circulating inside the case. The SSD is mounted with velcro underneath all of those cables. The PSU is (kind of ghetto-) mounted so that it's decoupled from the case, since wood would amplify and vibrations. There are dust filters on all the intake perforated metal shields (bottom) The system is extremely quiet (inaudible for me over the very quiet hissing of my speakers). Max CPU temps registered are 57 degrees celsius after prime 95 small FTT's stress test (BIOS setting:silent, stock CPU cooler fan). The wood used is 18mm thick acacia glued wood. The motherboard cutout panel is a 3ish mm MDF panel. Side lengths of the sqare base is 300mm (outer), height is 375mm (without the feet). The feet are round matte lian li case stands. Specs: -i5-7500 (relying on iGPU so far, but there would be space for a mini edition GPU) -AsRock Z270M-ITX/ac motherboard -Thermalright True Spirit 140 Power CPU cooler with stock fan -8GB of corsair valueselect DDR4-2133 MHz RAm -Corsair SF450 SFX modular PSU -500GB Samsung 850 evo 2.5" SSD I'm fully aware that the specs are nothing special and it's not suitable for gaming. Well guess what, i wont be gaming on it, i wanted a quiet, stylish office / media / browsing the web kind of pc. If i would want to play some games i can add something like a 1050ti later. I know as well that a Z motherboard is kind of useless with a non-K SKU CPU, it was the only decent available here... This thread will be updated if you have any questions or requests for more details, more pics or whatever. Note that I'm not a native speakers and there may be some mistakes in this post but meh... I've tried

Hello, LTT forums! So, in a nutshell, I am building a PC out of wood. I plan on doing a huge post on here or Imgur explaining how I built it, but that's later. I have all the blueprints drawn out, I'm starting construction, and I'm just missing a few things here and there that I would like to have checked off the list of things to find amidst the interwebs. I was just thinking two techies is better than one, and was hoping I could get some help finding the little parts I need, or perhaps some suggestions on better or different parts at possibly better prices. The list of parts below are parts I'm looking at buying already, but I'm open to new ideas. What I Need: + Motherboard Standoffs - https://www.amazon.com/Female-Threaded-Standoff-Spacer-M4x5mm/dp/B00YGBCZ8O/ref=sr_1_31?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1477859614&sr=1-31&keywords=standoffs -I only need 9 of these or so, so buying a pack of 50 isn't something I really wanted to do. Any idea where I could buy a smaller pack, or maybe suggestions for better standoffs? (My MOBO is in my signature) + Some Front I/O - http://www.corsair.com/en-us/carbide-400q-c-front-i-o -I was looking at some on/off switches today when I stumbled across this, and I thought "maybe there is something better?" I would like something with 2 USB 3.0 ports, headphone and mic inputs, and an on/off switch. This just makes wiring easier for me, that way I don't have to get all of these parts individually and get them to attach to the motherboard ( x.x ) + Dust filters - https://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Filter-Magnet-Cooling-FF123B/dp/B00ARB5E8U/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1478636660&sr=1-1&keywords=dust%2Bfilters&th=1 -I will need about 3 of these to go over my intakes, 2 of which could be a "2 in 1 combo" kind of thing since 2 of my 120mm will be stacked. The only thing is they need to be THIN! I mean the thickness of the filter here is about .1", and that's about as thick as I'd like it to be. + Fan Grille - https://www.amazon.com/Online-Metal-Supply-Aluminum-Perforated/dp/B00NR30NX6/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1478637401&sr=1-4&keywords=Aluminum+Perforated+Sheet -This is the material I want to put over the fans so I don't stick my finger into them, or drop anything into my case. The design is pretty simple (which I like) and the thickness is what I need it to be (1/8") but if you know of anything cooler then I'm totally up for suggestions! + 16x PCI-E Extension - https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/8KC3-0726-0500/3M12026-ND/3641403 -I recently made a post trying to find one of these, and this is the one I was recommended (which I like). A lot of these are built like trash and sell for under $10 on Amazon, but I can't risk blowing up the over a grand worth of components I worked my @$$ off to buy. I like the riser here, but it costs almost $100 and that makes me tear up a little... if it could be found anywhere at a less expensive price (even a little less) please let me know! Thanks for the help!

Is it a bad idea to make myself a wooden case to game? I got a old case here but my new motherboard doesn't fit and I rather put my money in pc parts . Soo is it a bad idea?

Hello every one, i'v decided to do the case for my PC in wood i'v got lichy, jackfrut and others at home a lot of them but i don't have any case to create a model for it. Do you have any software for me to use in order to design the case ? I wan't to try something like the 750D airflow edition or 900D from corsair. where can i get free software for this and plans for the components and test if everythings fits inside the case ? Thanks in advance

Buy Volta V on Amazon: http://geni.us/RJFT Want a legit gaming PC that ALSO looks good in your living room? The Volta V wood PC from CDO is just what the interior designer ordered.

EDIT: Featured on Geforce Garage! Hey guys, I've been lurking around here for quite some time. I think it's time I post my first build log on this site. I actually finished this project over the course of a year. I finished it last month and have been putting off doing a proper build log. I have all the progress photos I'll need, but I wanted to take the time and give it a proper write up. After Quakecon (an annual Dallas based lan party), I have had a lot of requests for a write up and I finally have time to do it. So this should take me a few days to get through, but I really hope you enjoy the process along the way. I'm not going to post this finished picks until after I complete the log. So, here we go! Project Breadbox Project what? This is a computer, not a container to hold bread wtf. The name kind of came out of the process of building this computer. Later in the build log, you'll see that I'll be messing around with some breadboard circuits for some LED stuff. One uses breadboards for prototyping circuitry. As one of my original design concepts was to build something that could potentially be taken to market, this is my prototype/proof of concept in which I adopted the name breadbox from breadboard. Finalized Part List (I went through some changes throughout the build process) CPU: Intel i7 7700k Delid 5GHz MOBO: Asus ROG Z270i Gaming GPU: Asus ROG GTX 1080 8GB OC RAM: 16GB Corsair Vengeance RGB 3200 SSD: Samsung 960 Evo 500GB NVNe m.2 PSU: Corsair SF600 CASE: yours truly, 100% scratch manufactured Liquid Cooling Parts CPU Block: EK Supremacy Evo Nickel/Plexi GPU Block: EK-FC1080 Strix Nickel/Plexi and matching back plate RAD: EK SE360 (360mm slim rad) Pump/Res: Singularity Computers Protium Pump & Res DDC Mod Kit for DDC pump Fittings: Bitspower assorted Tubing: 12mm OD/10mm ID PETG hardline from Bitspower Other stuff Fans: 3x EK Vardar F3-120, 2x Corsair AF 120 Lighting: Custom RGB LED Material List 5052-H32 Aluminum Sheet .050" (not sure if I can list the online vendor I got this from) Aluminum Angle 25mm (Big box store) Aluminum Angle 15mm (Big Box store) 6/32 button head screws (online vendor) 1/8" clear acrylic (online vendor) 3/16" tempered glass (online vendor) 7/8" 5052-H32 American Walnut boards 5/8" rough sawn spalted maple boards 1/2" Baltic Birch Plywood Tools Used: Drill with various bits and drill bits Ifixit tool kit. Makes assembly of the button head hex screws much easier Drill press (can be subbed for drill) Files various sizes Table saw (can be subbed for skill saw) Miter saw (can be subbed for skill saw) Jointer (not needed if you build plywood shell) Thickness Plainer (not needed if you build plywood shell) Lets get on with it: The Build When thinking of the design for this build. I knew I wanted something much smaller than my current Phanteks Evolv ATX which you can view here if you'd like: https://imgur.com/a/L39VK. I wanted to be able to incorporate a full watercooling loop without sacrifice. I also wanted to be able to see all of the hardware. This meant flipping the motherboard so that I could mount the GPU with its waterblock facing the left side of the case. (instead of only being able to see its backplate if it was mounted on the right side of the case. It will feature 3 windows in the exterior of the case: left, right, and top. Here you can get a good look at the size comparison. Left: white box is the size of the Evolv ATX. Right: First Concept. This is my proof of concept design. Mainly just figuring out if all the hardware will fit in the footprint that I want. This is also where the top manifold area idea was born. It would be quite some time before I even got to this stage in the build process. I wanted the internal frame to slide in and out of the exterior shell. One of my goals for this project was to make several different types of external shells out of different materials. Concept of personalization if I were to ever go to market. This is the motherboard I originally started out with. A MSI z270 Gaming Pro Carbon AC. This motherboard has some really good specs for the price, and has a good mono chromatic color scheme with and RBG header. I also like where the power headers are located. This will make for a cleaner look once finished. Also the steel reinforced slots are a nice touch. As this motherboard would have been mounted in an inverted position. The MSI logo would have been upside down. But lucky enough for me the heatsink is symmetrical, so I was able to flip it around quite easily, as pictured below. Still waiting on parts at this point, so I worked with what I could. The Frame So at first I was going to do this out of sheet metal. As I try to do my mods with basic tools so that others can replicate, this proved very difficult to get straight edges, even with filing. Steel is not easy to work with. I could of gone with a thinner gauge, which would of help significantly but ultimately I decided to change the materials. I want to have CAD drawings for panels to be laser cut but I want to work out the prototype before I invest in that. This approach could have worked. I have more photos of getting to this point but ultimately I just wasn't happy at all with the result so to the scrap pile this goes. Aluminium to the rescue! This stuff is relatively cheap and far easier to work with. I can use my table saw to make straight square cuts. Here I'm using aluminium angle for the frame. I'm using clamps to mock up the shape. I wanted to see how well this would work for before I invested in more of it. But I was able to make the frame out of a single length of aluminum angle (25mm). I started by using angle for the shorter lateral supports but later I'll move to using aluminum sheet for this as it'll help keep the frame square and look much better. But I'm still waiting on that to come in at this point. I'll have a full list of materials at the top of this build log. I drilled and tapped 6/32 threads to secure the frame together. I did this while the frame was still clamped together. Later after I dissasemble the frame, I will dirll out the outer hole so the screw will pass through to the inside threads. All the lateral supports will keep their threads and the vertical supports will just have holes. This makes assembly easier and also allows the material to seat next to each other tighter. Once you remove the screws it would be difficult to get the thread patterns to line back up, which is why I drilled out the holes on the vertical supports. Also note that I used this pattern of a diagonal. This helps to keep the frame square when reassembled. Here you can see how I'm using the clamps as well as a combination square (without the ruler) to help square up the frame as I drill and tap. Frame assembled. I'm still waiting on my radiator to come in. So the mid supports are not secured yet. I want to be sure I have the right clearance. But here you can start to see the concept come to life. Personally I love the look of radiators over the back side of fans, and to have it span the entire bottom of the case is going to look super clean. I made a wood template to help me visualize the design further. Really I was just bored while I waited on my aluminum sheet. Here you can see a good idea of the size of the project in relation to the rear I/O plate. The fan in the case is 140mm. The aluminum sheet has finally came in. I cut the top plate to realize that the frame is 1/4" out of square. Son of a bitch! Eh I'll fix it later. (you cant see it but it is) I know this because the piece I cut binds as I put it in. Also you can take a tape measure and measure corner to corner in a diagonal both ways. If it is square the measurements will be the same. Ok. I need to run to dinner. I'll continue some more tonight. Thanks for stopping by to check out this process!

Hello all! I am a hobby woodworker and pc enthusiast. I love itx form factor. I saw the wooden case Linus recently review that was $499 for just the case. I believe I can make a similar wooden case but with better features at a cheaper price and all with quality hard woods (at least with two base models using walnut and maple with accent features in different woods later on). Would there be anyone interested in that and maybe potentionaly buying one? Thanks, Art