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  1. Hi guys I want to move my pc from my crappy case onto a homemade case to mount on my wall. The idea here is to build something that I can mount on the wall behind my desk and monitors, that looks nice, is compact, and that I can take off of the wall, pick up, and carry with me to a LAN party. I'm using an ATX motherboard and PSU with a large air cooler (Fuma 2) and a gigabyte 1070ti. I still want to be able to use my odd and put at least my ssd and one 3TB HDD in the system. Below are my base layout and some PC that fit the aesthetic I'm going for. If any of you could give me some suggestions or design/layout ideas I would really appreciate it. 7d522d1d4c928d688a00b7cadf1f4e31.jpeg.webp 7d522d1d4c928d688a00b7cadf1f4e31.jpeg.webp PC.glb PC.stl
  2. This is my basic setup for doing graphic design work. I am going to get a graphics card and jump up to 32 gigs of RAM shortly. New desk is under construction.
  3. This is my current PC build. Specs are pitiful this has an core i7 3gen 3.40 ghz I think, 8 gbs of DDR3 RAM, a 320 HHD hard drive blue again I think, with a cheep power supply that seems to be working, a DVD player and finally a 8 gb Sapphire Nitro Radeon R9 390 GPU. PLEASE HELP ME!
  4. Hello everyone. At the beginning I would like to apologize you all for my bad English, i'm not a native speaker. I was planning to replace my old laptop with something new for almost a year but I always had some other expenses Finally i have some spare money. For today my planned setup looks like this: CPU: Ryzen5 2600X GPU: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 G1 GAMING 8GB GDDR5 or GTX 1060 RAM: HyperX Predator 16GB HDD: Samsung 970 Evo M.2 250GB + WD Blue 2TB PSU: Corsair RMx 650W CP-9020178-EU MB: to be honest idk. At the beginning, I planned to choose Gigabyte X470 AORUS ULTRA GAMING but now i thinking about MSI X470 GAMING PRO CARBON or ASRock X470 Taichi. Or even ASUS PRIME X470-PRO. Maybe you have some advise. Most of the cases looks mehh or is it's too expensive, so i decide to to make one from scratch. The choice was obviously simple. Wood. Work is already in progres. A few very raw sketches. I decided to stick to my original idea and choose variant B. With little difference as to the location of the PSU. Dimensions about 45x45x45 cm. Two wooden side panels, front with three holes for 140fans and two 5,25 bays hidden behind wooden doors and sliding top with window. There are no other plans, everything is in my head and will be modified during work. DAY 1 Some reclaimed wood. Oak beams from the old fence, old boards from the attic and scrap remaining from previous projects Att work i ran them through jointer and finished off with planer in home. Motherboard tray, raw fit and some old MB And glued Working on the frame. One of the side panels DAY 2 and 3 Mostly filling nail holes with pegs. Patching knots. Cuting pegs Multitool was very helpful in cutting off all these pegs. But in hindsight i should bother with any of this. DAY 4 Gluing front panel. DAY 5 Resin is here + blue dye U use resin for the first time. Filling all the cracks and holes. At this point, I realized that I shouldn't pegs all this nail holes. DAY 6 Shopping day. 3,5mm nd 2x 3,8mm drils M3 bolts, washers and nuts small wheels set of 25cm ... I have no idea what it's called in english ( drawers are mounted on them) and the most important 5mm straight cutting bit. DAY 7 Work on the front panel . Panel cut to the final dimensions. 43x43cm I made it simple jig for cutting 140mm round hole. Unfortunately, none of my bits(good one) is long enough to cut the entire thickness of the board (and thickness of jig). I had to use multitool. And finish with template bit. IDK. it's looks not bad. Another jig for cutting hole for two 5,25 bay. Cutting bay for 2x 5,25 and some "control panel" reset and buttons for backlight. Quick sanding. Front panel with door. Cutting 5mm slots with router. After three passes i discovered my huge mistake, 140mm holes weren't sanded. Start with 40 and 80 grid and finish with 120 grid by hand. I don't have quality roundover bit so instead of risking wood chiping i use 45 cuting bit and sandpaper Cutting rest of the slots. I made two mistakes:(. Measure twice, cut once :). Gluing filler strip in to the slots. That's all up to now. I still hesitate over the finish. I was thinking about burning and staining. But idk how a resin can handle treatment with a fire. I was also thinking about controlling the fan speed and i still somewhere have necessary electronic components. But I don't think it necessary.
  5. I've been working a project the last few months building my own arcade cabinet and I intend on putting a ASUS Maximus IV Gene-Z with an i5-3570K and a GTX 970 Windforce inside. I have a a Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo on top of it that did a great job keeping everything cool when it was inside an actual computer case previously. I had it overclocked to 4.6GHz without any issues as well, which honestly was surprisingly easy. My worry is that when I install it inside of the cabinet (which is made of wood and has two 15"x35" doors on the front of it that aren't airtight, but it's only a small gap) their wont be enough airflow inside. I could add some small vents out the sides and/or back, or I have a bunch of extra fans that I could add to the cabinet, but I don't want to go ahead and buy a 120MM hole saw and start cutting everything up if I don't have to. Would I be asking for trouble if I just mounted everything inside and let it rip?
  6. Hello fellow tech enthusiasts, Last year I built this custom PC case at my parents house for my dad to store all his maps and data for our forestry family business (and also so I have a rig to play games on when I'm at home) I'm a student at u university, studying to be a English and it teacher in Germany. Due to my very limited income I was never able to build a awesome computer for myself, but I had the brilliant idea to talk my parents into needing one for "their maps and picture edeting ". For years I had the dream to create a custom case made out of wood. I was never sure how to do it properly, and also how to find a designer that looked elegant, was 'pactical' and nobody had done before. The designer I choose now, I am very happy with, and for the first PC I build, I think it is awsome. I wanted to recreate the look of stacked wood, the tape you would find at any home with a fireplace. The wax I achieved this was by making a frame out of 4 pliewood pieces on the top, bottom, and sides, and fine 2 metal fence squares in the front and back. The bottom wood piece has a big hole in it where I mounted one singular 250mm case fan. On the sides I prepared bolts and spacers to mount the motherboard, before I screwed the wooden cut pieces to the side all the way around. The front metal mesh, I spray painted white, and cut sections of of cut wood and screed them to the mesh to make it look like the wood was stacked everywhere. The mesh can be screwed on and off with 4 screws. The back mash has no wood. The anterior of the case is as small as I could find parts for it. 32cm of space in all directions has to be enough to install a motherboard, 16gb of ram, an i7 8700k with the biggest bequiet cooler I could find, 5tb of storage and a super tiny gtx1080. All the parts fit perfectly, no space to give. The hdd and ssd drives were mounted with velcro tape to the sides were there was space. Cooling in the case is amazing. The one singular case fan pulls up air into the gpu and the rest of the case is just cooled the the massive cup cooler circulating air from front to back through the "open" case design. One thing I wanted to achieve in this build, was having no buttons or lapels on the case for a cleaner look. So I ran 3m extension cords for everything through a sleve from the case directly into one external wooden box that could be placed any where. On the picture zou can see the disc drive, the power button, and connections for usb 3 and 2 as well as headphone and mic. I'm sorry that I cant provide pictures of the build, but I did not realise I would live the PC so much that I would like to share the finished results. For the wood I used a tree from our forest that i cut down and dried myself. The monitor is also from the same wood, where a friendly carpenter prepared the wood and I got a controller board from Ebay and a old laptop screen. If I have the funds to hold another one of those, I think I I will provide pictures of the process, but for now feel free to ask me anything. Urs, Moritz
  7. Hello, Its time again for a new build and this time I am going to use my favorite material, wood! After lots of planning I decided it was going to be another ITX build that would still fit at least one 240mm radiator and long graphics cards if thats what I choose to go with. The plan is to use closed watercooling loops for both CPU and GPU to make future upgrades easier. Ive seen quite a few wood builds over the years but nothing that really felt like me so this will be my version, should also be quite obvious what case I was inspired by Huge thanks to bequiet! and Asrock for helping out with the hardware for this build! And here are a few 3D renders
  8. Hi Guys, I just wanted to share the result of my first custom PC adventure. Here's a Picture of the completed build: Here's the hardware list: PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU Intel - Core i9-9900K 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor $484.99 @ B&H CPU Cooler Noctua - NH-U9S 46.44 CFM CPU Cooler $59.95 @ Amazon Motherboard Asus - ROG STRIX Z390-I GAMING Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard $199.98 @ Amazon Memory Corsair - Vengeance LPX 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory $261.00 @ Amazon Storage Western Digital - Green 240 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive $49.89 @ OutletPC Video Card Asus - GeForce RTX 2070 8 GB TURBO Video Card $771.80 @ Amazon Power Supply SeaSonic - FOCUS SGX 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular SFX Power Supply $117.63 @ Amazon Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total $1945.24 Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-05-21 05:33 EDT-0400 Shut up! I need a 9900k for REASONS! The general idea was to create a case with direct airflow pretty much directly from bottom to top in the smallest doable form factor. It's not perfect by a long shot but then again i am no craftsman of any sort. With it now running and having gone through a few benchmarks and stress tests I found that i can comfortably run the cpu to a clock of 4.9 without the fans going crazy or temps going over 80 degrees. The tower cooler is definitely sufficient. The GPU is also suprisingly silent for a blower stly card but definitely the loudest part of the system. If i were to do it again i would probably not take a blower style card again but it's really no big deal. The system is overall almost inaudible even under some light load (i.e: games) The GPU will of course be audible when doing a render. If anyone is interested I'll pack out some of the pictures i did inbetween and share the build process. I am also open to any questions or suggestion of course. Update: Here's some pics and description to serve as a little bit of a buildlog. half of those are "reenactments" though, since i did not make many pictures while building unfortunately. The initial idea: I had this old can for imported olives that i liked the look of and so i had the whacky idea of putting a pc into it. I made a first prototype... which worked insofar as it fit the can over it. I realized though, that the whole construction was a little to shaky while also being pretty heavy, so i started again: I created this model in blender of how it should look like. It has all the components in it and should fit since it is all to scale ... or so i thought. I went to building then... Here's a tutorial on how to do teethed connections the dirty way. Don't do this in front of a woodworker. They might just murder you. Draw the teeth (preferrably with a breadth that is a divider to the total length, so that there isn't one little tooth at the end): The depth should usually be the same as the depth of the plate. Set a tablesaw to the depth and draw it towards the plate holding it like so: # Be careful doing that of course. tablesaws are dangerous. I recommend putting a second sacrificial plate behind the first one, so that the first plate does not fray. Lastly... you use whatever you have or the actual 90° clamp to put the two together after wood glue was applied: Now.... before any of this... which i did not do... you should make all the holes for screws. In my experience the tons of glue used in good layered wood should easily suit the needs of pc screws. I used a sacrificial plate to determine the right sizes for the holes. You could trust the measurements of the screws but why not try is before using it to hold hundreds of euros of hardware. Everything else was pretty much just holes and screws. There is only more truly custom thing: I made clamps to hold the PSU from brass: I put felt in between the metal and the PSU to absorb vibration. At this point i realized, that the components would firstly not fit as intended and secondly that i had not considered how much space cables need. I had to rethink the arrangement and ended up with something like this: I then rebuilt my blender model: It came out something like that. The final form is a compromise, since most IO is at the side, which i wanted to avoid but i am pretty happy with it. I then bought acrylic glass, cut it with a tablesaw (not recommended. dont be cheap like me and get an acrylic cutter.) sanded the sides down up to 800 grid and drilled holes with a metal drill. be careful when punching guide holes for the drill. acrylic is pretty easily cracked as i had to learn. I drilled holes into the sides of the case and inserted threaded bolts until about a cm stood out. I then cut off the head of the bolts. The glass goes over the bolts and is held with wingnuts. As you can clearly see, i painted the case with varnish before installing the hardware. The feet are currently a temporary solution. I am not sure what to do for fee yet. I taped a patch of airfilter sheet from the internet to the bottom to filter the intake. Also a temporary solution right now. If there are any questions left open i am happy to answer.
  9. Hey everyone this is my first post on the entire forums, but i had this old pc in my home, well the case, it was an old Norrod Case, still in the whole white cream collors, even an ATX PSU did not fit in it's old connectors. So after 7 months after using that one i got a new Thermaltake Case for my pc, and now i still got new great components lying arround [Atleast better then my Thermaltake ] In my thermaltake case are currently - PSU - B500 Cooler Master CPU - Intel I3-4160 Ram - 8GB Kingston And it has 2fans [ Including the CPU Cooler ] Seing as the LAN port on my newer motherboard died without explenation. The PC Case i am building will be made out of Multiplex board with a ProfiPaint finish, and the Component bases from the old pc wich i have tested and still fit. Including will be the picture of the pieces i will re-use. And a size table for the wooden pieces i have measured out, they are in Centimeter, but still as my friend said "Enormous" as the case will be 61cm tall without feet, and 54cm or longer, for the feet i will probably use tray wheels, 2 in the back that are stationary, and 2 in the front that can rotate freely for easy working capability. The parts i will put in it will be the PSU from my thermaltake due to the fact it will need more power as it will be my main rig. PSU - B500 Cooler Master CPU - I3-8100 [ iGPU UHD 630 ] Ram - 2 Kingston 4GB Strips Storage - 2 Kingston 120Gb SSD's [ 1 already in my possesion. ] and 2 500Gb HDD's one from WD Blue and one from Toshiba. Fans - 1 Xoxide 250mm Silent case Fan, 1 200mm Case Fan [ Choice undefined ] 5 120mm Casefans [ More so cause it's a wooden Case ] Front I/O will be made from: Phobya Push-button 19mm Alu Black button [ probably lue led ] Delock Kabel USB 3.0 Pin Header > 2 X USb 3.0-a Parallel USB-Adapter Delock Adapter USB 2.0 Header > 2x USB-Ausb-adapterto connect my 1-7 USB Hub wich has blue led's and switches per usb port for extra usb space. The Component Base i will need to look on how to conect it to the rest of the case seing as it will need good stability as it will hold my motherboard afterall. Maybe for that i will use some wooden rods and a few splints. And i'm thinking about doing a partial Acrylic screen on the motherboard side as it will be an aesthetics case, to the size of the motherboard tray or top of motherboard towards bottom of the psu if i make an acrylic PSU Cover. [ Indicated bythe dotted line ] Will also need to try and make a cool design for the Front piece and top etc. For the cable management i will build in some holes and fill them with Corsair Obsidian 350D Gromet Kits, and for the sounds of the fans and such i will be using Be Quiet! Demping Mat's. I will be doing some updates occasionally. Anyone any cool design idea's easy to make using a sander and hand circle saw? Those are the tools i wil mainly be using for this product including a basic battery powered drill. Will update when avaiable.
  10. Is it a bad idea to make myself a wooden case to game? I got a old case here but my new motherboard doesn't fit and I rather put my money in pc parts . Soo is it a bad idea?
  11. When I repaired my LG monitor (cheap capacitor issue, which also plagued the DC brick, that got replaced with a printer PSU), I pretty much destroyed the current frame. It's currently held together by a guitar capo, but I want some better solution instead. My plans so far: 1) Use wood, preferably walnut for the front bezel. 2) Use some other material for the backside that's cheaper, but also stronger. I'll probably use walnut veneer here to make it look nicer. 3) Make the new chassis to have the same overall thickness instead of having a bump at the back where the control panel is located. Instead, the controls will be relocated and the bottom part of the bezel will be the same as everything else. Currently I have no plans on the stand, probably going to use a wall mount for a while, and I'll install an option for VESA mounting (currently it has a 75).
  12. Buy Volta V on Amazon: http://geni.us/RJFT Want a legit gaming PC that ALSO looks good in your living room? The Volta V wood PC from CDO is just what the interior designer ordered.
  13. Hello, LTT forums! So, in a nutshell, I am building a PC out of wood. I plan on doing a huge post on here or Imgur explaining how I built it, but that's later. I have all the blueprints drawn out, I'm starting construction, and I'm just missing a few things here and there that I would like to have checked off the list of things to find amidst the interwebs. I was just thinking two techies is better than one, and was hoping I could get some help finding the little parts I need, or perhaps some suggestions on better or different parts at possibly better prices. The list of parts below are parts I'm looking at buying already, but I'm open to new ideas. What I Need: + Motherboard Standoffs - https://www.amazon.com/Female-Threaded-Standoff-Spacer-M4x5mm/dp/B00YGBCZ8O/ref=sr_1_31?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1477859614&sr=1-31&keywords=standoffs -I only need 9 of these or so, so buying a pack of 50 isn't something I really wanted to do. Any idea where I could buy a smaller pack, or maybe suggestions for better standoffs? (My MOBO is in my signature) + Some Front I/O - http://www.corsair.com/en-us/carbide-400q-c-front-i-o -I was looking at some on/off switches today when I stumbled across this, and I thought "maybe there is something better?" I would like something with 2 USB 3.0 ports, headphone and mic inputs, and an on/off switch. This just makes wiring easier for me, that way I don't have to get all of these parts individually and get them to attach to the motherboard ( x.x ) + Dust filters - https://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Filter-Magnet-Cooling-FF123B/dp/B00ARB5E8U/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1478636660&sr=1-1&keywords=dust%2Bfilters&th=1 -I will need about 3 of these to go over my intakes, 2 of which could be a "2 in 1 combo" kind of thing since 2 of my 120mm will be stacked. The only thing is they need to be THIN! I mean the thickness of the filter here is about .1", and that's about as thick as I'd like it to be. + Fan Grille - https://www.amazon.com/Online-Metal-Supply-Aluminum-Perforated/dp/B00NR30NX6/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1478637401&sr=1-4&keywords=Aluminum+Perforated+Sheet -This is the material I want to put over the fans so I don't stick my finger into them, or drop anything into my case. The design is pretty simple (which I like) and the thickness is what I need it to be (1/8") but if you know of anything cooler then I'm totally up for suggestions! + 16x PCI-E Extension - https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/8KC3-0726-0500/3M12026-ND/3641403 -I recently made a post trying to find one of these, and this is the one I was recommended (which I like). A lot of these are built like trash and sell for under $10 on Amazon, but I can't risk blowing up the over a grand worth of components I worked my @$$ off to buy. I like the riser here, but it costs almost $100 and that makes me tear up a little... if it could be found anywhere at a less expensive price (even a little less) please let me know! Thanks for the help!
  14. Ok, so it isn't exactly a build log as such but I wanted to share what one can do with cheap vinyl. Admittedly it isn't perfect as it has a few air bubbles in places (especially the back side panel) but the case was in a pretty bad condition before hand and this is a HUGE improvement aesthetically. So here are the results of my PC case now: Edit: I took the photos of my PC in the garden as I thought the wood appearance would look nicer with some greenery and light instead of my dark man cave
  15. I'm working on a pc case in the steampunk style. After I put the fun stuff in the box I realized I didn't calculate the size for PSU or HDDs. What's my best option? I considered making a smaller box to go on the left side of the case. If I go with that option, how would I stack the hdds?
  16. Has anyone had a lot of experience with CNC machines? Are there any recommendations? Price over performance and other questions like that. Just thinking about doing some CNC projects and want to make sure I start off on the right foot. Thanks for all input. EDIT: Realized as I was on some other forums, that I should include price. I am thinking $500 give or take. But I am all up for creativity.
  17. Living with my wife in a 1 bedroom apartment has shown its issues. Like gaming on a custom PC is not all quite possible when using the space as efficiently as we try. I have resorted to console gaming on the Xbox One and PS3 while needing to be creative. This build log shows the work in progress of cleaning up my little bit of gaming space while also showing the creativity of keeping an apartment classy and clutter free (at least in to a tight corner). Also, this was a good time to learn creative wood techniques. Hope you all enjoy. This is my current setup, complete with wiring. I keep game cases in the tiny box to the bottom right. My old Xbox 360 could sit on that coke box, but the Xbone doesn't allow for vertical standing. Tried. I hide power plugs behind the coke box and an extension cord when I get my SNES to play some Donkey Cong country. Here is a close up look of the TV. A no frills Sony. It feeds down under the carpet. Didn't do that on purpose. Landlord had to fix the subfloor and the wiring got tucked under it. Quite nice. Yes, that is a first gen Zune. Best media player on the planet and it still works. Only a 3 hour battery now. Here is the culprit that I am going to fix. I will build a shelf to stack the PS3 and Xbone. Idea is to add an HDMI switcher to allow the computer behind the bag to run on the TV as well. I will do a separate post when I get around to getting the PC up and running as a media server and NAS. I am going to fix all my problems with this. Scrap wood. Courtesy of my father in law, as well as the power tools to make my storage organizer. I won't show the steps in cutting. Pretty standard cuts with very basic joints, glue, and 4 in screws. Most of the pieces together to form a frame. Ran out of time and grabbed a piece to take home and verify it would fit. Perfect! And yes, the Xbone will squeeze in there with micrometers to spare on each side. I won't be boarding up the sides for airflow sake. I will finish putting all the pieces together this week and will upload more pics. Thanks for taking a look. All thoughts are welcome. ~TheCamba
  18. I know this i a long shot. Yesterday i was looking on the forum i an saw this desk i really liked the look of. Now i'm trying to find it and i cant. Its somewhere on this forum so i just wondered if anyone has seen it. Its a proper DIY desk made for timber like this http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-CLS-Studwork-Timber-38x63x2400mm/p/107177 , a solid wood top like this http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/catalog/products/50106773/ and bolted together with these http://www.diy.com/departments/10mm-m10-cup-head-cup-square-bolt-l110mm-pack-of-5/256316_BQ.prd I just that i've been looking to build my own desk i found that as inspiration.
  19. Hi there, i am new to the forum. I am planning a new wooden case build for next summer, and i am currently in the proces of designing the case. I have been drawing for a couple of weeks now and i am now at a point at which I would realy like to hear some feedback from other people. The idea was to build a pc with a small footprint (12 cm in this case) and with an atx mobo and full length GPu's. All the exterior panels are removable and can be exchanged for other panels when I want another look. Under the top, front and bottom panels there will be RGB lighting. The inside wil also have RGB lighting. Cooling is done by 7 80mm fans pulling air out of the case. This wil cause negative air pressure so air will be pulled in through the filtered side panel. Any questions? Post a message. Please do not comment on my English, it is not my native language. Here are some screenshots: (see other pages of this thread for updates on the design) Link to gallery: http://linustechtips.com/main/gallery/album/2837-planned-summer-build/
  20. I build a headphone stand for my hd 280's and it only cost me like 2 dollars. All i needed to get was about a foot of pvc pipe, a 90 degree elbow, an end cap, and a small rectangular piece of wood. I stained and varnished the wood after i cut a hole through the wood for the pvc to fit through. PICTURE http://instagram.com/p/dAyZo1Pbim/#
  21. Howdy folks, Back when I lived with my parents I was working on a popsicle stick house, but I had to get rid of it since there was no space to put it in my new apartment. Now that I have a workbench in my shed, I can finally do some building projects I've been wanting to do for a while and a popsicle stick model house is one of them. Building and designing things from scratch is a hobby I guess, it helps me clear my head and allows me to be creative. Along the way I'm gonna take pictures and I figured I'd make a post here to have others enjoy my project, get feedback and comments, ideas, etc. I'm building this to a 1:24 scale, kinda, I think. 1 inch = 2 feet. I use the metric system on a daily basis, better yet, I don't even have a ruler with inches on it. Anyways, 4cm is about a meter and building with wooden popsicle sticks is not that accurate anyway. A fully built wall is about 4.5 inches tall, so 9 ft, which I believe is a decent ceiling height. All doors are 3.5 inches tall, which translates to 7 ft. I intend on putting LED lighting in this house and powering them off of little solar panels I will stick to the roof. I guess it would also be fun to get a small LCD screen, say 2 inches diagonally and use that as a miniature TV that can actually display something. Just my imagination running wild here. I've got LEDs laying around somewhere, plenty of resistors, heat shrink and thin gauge wire. I know electronics basics, so should be able to get some lights working. As a base I'll be using a 3/4" (18mm) piece of particle board and I'm glueing it all together with a hot glue gun and a shitload of those glue cartridges. As far as design goes, I used SketchUp to mock up a model of what I intend to make. This is subject to change though as the build progresses and ideas flow through my head. It's a modern build, I guess. My idea with this build was a house on a hill, where the back of the house is pretty much against the hill with a steep slope front to back. This picture resembles my idea somewhat. Ground floor consists of a 2 car garage and on the right from front to back: entry with stairs going up, hallway, utility room/storage room. Upper floor has stairs coming up on the bottom right to a landing, gap in the wall to a kitchen/living area, two bedrooms and a bathroom up top. Above this floor is an attic space, which could be a home office or guest bedroom of sorts. Comments and ideas are always welcome of course. I'll be updating the thread with pictures as the build progresses.
  22. Disclaimer: Okay, I am not an expert modder. In fact, this is my first endeavor into the trade so I would love to get some help from the community. Which is the whole reason that I made this blog. It is not, in any way, a guide. So with that out of the way, I'll start going into my plan so far. Quick Overview: Woodwork: Going for MDF over plywood was my first major choice as it will affect the budget for the rest of my build. My local builders merchant had a special so I grabbed a 2.5m by 1.5m, 9mm sheet for like £11. Once I have the Drawer bottom cut out and holed, I will test this with all the guts of my PC. To actually fix everything down, I am grabbing a 50 pack of M3 55mm screws and 100M3 nuts. This cost me arround £10 but is alot more that I hope to use. Screws: M3 screws will fit motherboard and radiator holes nicely and in my case, they fit my GPU too. This is a bonus because I can now mount my 290xs flat, and lower the height of the drawer. Length wise, 55mm is enough for the; front radiator, fan, filter and grill arrangement. Moreover, longer screws mean I can fix the motherboard and GPUs higher above the base for better cable management. Graphics Cards: As for my GPUs I intend to red mod my 290xs with Corsair H60s. I understand that circular coolers are easier to mod but at this time, I can get a refurbished H60 for only £5 more that a H55. 12 black cable ties where enough to mount the cooler well enough to get contact but I don't have any VRM coolers at this time so I could bench the card. Geil do some 290x/290 heat sinks but they are only available from the US, still waiting for them to turn up. Should only be a week now and they come with pads. I have some MX2 Compound for my cards and CPU and I will use small amounts of this for the VRAM sinks. RAM: My Avexir RAM is great but has yellow LEDs that will clash the the black and white color scheme. I could sell the and get some better RAM but that would take a while and cost me. So I went for just getting some basic black and while, full cover heat sinks to block the LEDs. Storage and PSU: Finally, I have a HDD and an SSD that I need to mount with velcro to the bottom on the drawer. Next to each other, the velcro should provde enough height for the SATA cable to attach. My PSU s the last component I need to fix into the case. More velcro for this, I will mount it with he fan facing down so I can cut out a hole and fix filters to the 120mm fan. I will also cut ventilation holes in the bottom portion of the case to allow air to get the the fan. Bottom Compartment: This bottom compartment will also hold all the elongated cables so I can open the drawer fully without having to unplug anything. Cut off from the drawer by a rubber grommet so that no air can escape this way, I will have three 120mm fans at the rear of the case to match the 120mm rad and fan arrays at the front. Whats next? The next entry will be on the GPU; modding, testing, overclocking and benching. For much more detailed look at this, check out my other blog £Smokey Attempts: The Red Mod". Thank you. :)
  23. I just built a wooden pc case, would appreciate your input on it! Specs, in CASE you were wondering (sorry for the bad pun), i5 6500, gtx 1060 3gb, 8gb ram, 450w bronze psu, 500gb drive (system drive), 1tb drive, and msi b250m pro-vd.(If your wanting to build your own wooden pc case make sure you ground your motherboard to the psu shroud from one of the Moro screws)
  24. This is the 4th wooden case I have built and by far the best looking so far.. overall the whole project took roughly 40 hours from start to finish. I started with a cougar steel case that i had previously painted camouflage.. looked cool for awhile but i got bored of it after a few months. first I sanded the majority of the paint off and painted it black to prevent flash rust. Then i got the grinder out with a metal cutoff wheel (no dremel since I'm not 12) (jk) i cut out the drive bays since i wanted to be able to mount two front 120mm fans without much air restriction and also cut out the metal mesh around the rear fan since all it's doing is restricting airflow. I also cut a hole in the top panel for a window too. once i was at this stage i began to start cutting wood for the top and front panel (i used red oak if anyone is wondering). i dont have a lot of pictures from this unfortunately, but i used a 120mm hole saw ($11 online vs $30+ at the local hardware store) and i also used a jig saw to cut out the top window of the wood too. to get all of the pieces to stick together i used a craig's jig (pocket holes).. you can just free hand them if you want to be cheap, but when using really hard wood then id recommend a jig. and i also used 3/8" screws with 2 part epoxy to hold the wood to the metal. above is a picture of what pocket holes look like.. i usually just use them to secure wood without being able to see anything from the outside. next i began to make the main side panel (the left one if you're looking at the front) this was by far the hardest part since i was working with the wood going in different directions, and my table saw wasn't working properly so when screwing in the wood then it would pull upwards due to an uneven cut (the only real limitation to the Craig's jig. from this point after making two different side panels, then i decided to use 3/4" overlay European cabinet hinges. This simply means that 3/4" of the material behind where the hinge is mounted will be covered by the door when its in the closed position. excuse the mess in all of these pictures.. im currently working on 4-5 projects at the same time.. including a test bench and another pc case (full wood no metal) one example of a project i was working on was a set of grips for an airsoft 1911 "FUN" FACT.. i used a piece of $.75 walnut scrap wood encase anyone was wondering. once the hinges were fit and i was happy with the gap between the door and frame then i decided to pick out a stain. In this case (pun intended) i decided to use a mix of a dye and water based stain 50/50 mix one was Merlot and i forgot the name of the other.. ask if youre interested. this is a picture of the stain after two coats and also two coats of water based polyurethane (didnt feel like waiting for oil based) and i moved it to a different room since i didnt want to get dust all over it... i also painted the inside black (i love the way oak looks painted black.. i used 2x painters touch spray paint incase anyone was wondering.. and i also made a switch box (pictured below) to be able to shut off the two front case fans and soon to be seen leds after this all dried then mounting hardware began.. for this build i used... sapphire 280x vapor x fx 6300 970 gaming mobo 1 tb hard drive 8gb 1600 mhz ram 725 watt psu hyper 212 cooler antec f12 fans (ive been surprisingly happy with them (and i also like how they look) ignore the residue on random stuff as i had just been hot gluing fans/plexiglass in that furry is my new gpu for my next build.. these parts were overall decently intermediate, but i just wanted some parts to get a friend a starter pc. let me know if anyone had questions ect.. below are pictures of the finished product and ignore the mess in the room i was soldering and we had a lan party lolz. its hard to take pictures that do it justice, but it looks way better in person... let me know if anyone has questions.
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