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  1. Sorry I have a lot of questions I want to ask so I'll do it at once here since there's some case modding and some PSU cabling. I'll start with the psu. I got myself used but basically new RM850i for cheap. One of the reasons I got it was to get myself custom sleeved cables. I know I can do extentions but to me that's more for psu-s that don't have modular options. I wanted to go get my cables done at first from something like cablemod, that was off the table because of the expense. I won't pay for a few cables as much as I paid for the PSU itself. Next I thought about doing it myself, however that got complicated really quick. So here's my predicament: 1.) What kind of connectors does PSU and PC use from what I gathered they are 5557 automotive connectors, but I'm confused what pitch? I believe it's 4.2mm but if someone knows for sure please tell me. 2.) Where to get them in bulk or for a decent price? I'm thinking about getting them here: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32802993594.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.25c77f1c4NixNc&algo_pvid=65be8bcc-5b2a-4e71-b9a8-78b60f458822&algo_expid=65be8bcc-5b2a-4e71-b9a8-78b60f458822-0&btsid=0ab6d59515861000855057984ec9d9&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_ 3.) What kind of wire to use. From what I gathered it's a good idea to use 16AWG but from what I see 18 is used for my PSU. The question is also about it being a good idea in the long term since the 16awg wire is twice as expensive. Wire link: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32624865621.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.26e83c00EXV0cY&mp=1 4.) How to choose sleeving diameter. So the external diameter of this wire above is 2.3mm. Does that mean I go 3mm? If I go 16 awg that has 3mm do I go 4mm? What is a good rule of thumb for this kind of thing as to make the wire look half decent? I will go with a black wire and dark sleeving. 5.) Are gold plated contacts a thing? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33008446545.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.3cb97f1c2QYpSw&algo_pvid=67009243-6645-440a-bd05-049d6be17355&algo_expid=67009243-6645-440a-bd05-049d6be17355-9&btsid=0ab6d67915861011511901600e5202&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_ The case I'm using a Fractal define c case. I mounted the front 140mm fans and the rear 120mm with a bit of a caveat. I wanted to use those rubber screw things, but also those rubber fan frames (i really wanted the thing to be quiet). One problem the case uses those slits for fans so you can mount with fans at different heights. No problem, I'm an engineer so I designed like a thing for reducing the hole diameter and to lock the rubber screw in place, image below, the part is 3d printed and friction fits in the slit. I did that for all the fans on the case. I assembled the case and wanted to test the acoustics. The fans spin up to max speed and I have a terrible low pitch humming noise every half a second to a second. From what I deduced it's from the front fans being close together and having a sort of weird oscillating resonance between them. I did what every sensible person would. Whipped out a sound meter and did the testing. Fans mounted just with the screws, screws plus rubber bumpers, just the rubber screws and rubber screws and bumpers. Made little to no difference to raw dB output. Around 58-59 on full speed. The resonance was reduced a bit with just the rubber screws and just the normal screws. However it's still quite noticeable, is there any other way one would go about reducing that noise? I'm using Arctic P14 PWM PST CO fans in the front and the same fan just 120mm in the rear. The rear fan is really quiet even at full speed and makes no wired noises.
  2. Hi, folks! I have a somehow really dumb question, so thanks in advance for possible help. First of all i have a Corsair SF450 80 PLUS GOLD ( https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Power-Supply-Units/SF-Series™-80-PLUS-Gold-Power-Supplies/p/CP-9020104-NA ) psu. Since the sata power cable shipped with the unit is too short to reach my ssd in my specific case, it came to my mind, that i could probably use an extension cable. I already have cable extensions from cablemod ( https://store.cablemod.com/product/cablemod-pro-modmesh-cable-extension-kit/ ) lying around. So my question is: Is it possible to use the "6-pin PCI-e extension cable" plugged in directly to the psu sata/pata aux 6pin power outlet and the other end into the sata power cable which came with the psu ? It would work physically (i tried that already), but i have no idea if it is a good idea and i dont want to fry my ssd or start a fire with my psu. Thanks in advance and have a nice day. Yours truly, Zitronent
  3. Image Above Provided by: LittleCarrot Welcome to the Brand New Update for the Modding FAQ Post This has been quite the work giving the FAQ a new look from the old text based version and I hope everyone here enjoys it and find it useful. The old version however is not gone, for anyone who still wants to view it with the same up to date info I will leave a link to it HERE. This thread will go over some of the most common mods, contain information on sleeving, painting components, templates, modding, and more with detailed instructions for all the mods. If there is anything you want to see added, or contribute let me know by either posting below or messaging me I'm always open to new ideas. General Wiring Modding Painting
  4. Tdoge

    RGB HELP!

    Hello, I have recently bought a new motherboard (Asus Strix B450-F) and it has only 4 pin RGB headers on it. I also bought a Deepcool Castle 240 the RGB cable connects to a 3 pin RGB header. Does anyone know of any adapters or anything that I could buy to get it to work? I have also attached image of the cable the cooler came with.
  5. Hello, I just finished building my computer a little over a couple of weeks ago now and I was wondering if anyone knows where the USB header for the Corsair H100i cooler goes on this mobo? I was able to plug in all the other headers for the cooler and it seems like the water pump is working as well as the fans. The only thing not plugged in is the usb header which I assume controls the fan speeds. Anyone else have any experience with this combo? I want to turn down the fan speed of the fans on my reservoir because they're just so freaking loud. I have no access to control those fan speeds, I'm assuming until I can get that usb header in. Thanks and Happy New Year!.....hopefully monkaS
  6. I bought a Corsair H150i Pro RGB a few days ago, and got it on Thursday, only to find that the frame was bent so much that I couldnt screw it into my PC case. I ordered a replacement from Amazon, and it just arrived a few hours ago. When going to install it just now, I noticed that the 3pin fan header coming from the pump only had one wire, instead of the 2 wires that were on the one I'm sending back. Can anyone explain this?
  7. Currently making a custom home sound system using hi-res car audio components with homemade speaker enclosures! I've gotten to the point now where I just gotta hook the Amp to a source and was thinking of using my motherboards onboard audio since it's got 8 Channels and outputs 24bit/192Khz, but I'm unsure where the outputs are... I use an ASUS SABERTOOTH 990FX... Outputting to a Pioneer GM-DX975 Amp, 2x Pioneer TS-Z65CH Speakers, and 2x passive crossovers followed by their respective tweeters. So where I plug in boys?
  8. Hello all!, Today I present a issue. So I bought a house recently that has these speakers wired up in the roof in various areas of the house. How ever a intergrater wanted to charge me 8 grand for a system that would let me control them? Now I have a quite a bit of experience with custom electronics and have a DIY Homelab powering a large amount of smart tools. How ever the world of audio is a bit of a unknown to me. Is there a better way? I want to have multiroom audio and be able to easily control music and / or video audio on a room by room basis. I attached pictures of the wiring and one of the speakers in the roof. Looking forward to the suggestions you guys have to offer. And if there is any information lacking just ask. Thanks in Advance, Duke Venator
  9. Hi,A little bit of background:I had previously converted my original nexus tablet into a clock. I followed a guide on YouTube by cutting the wires from the battery. Then, just connecting the red wires from the battery to a spliced up micro USB cable (red wires). Trimming all other wires. Cut a hole at the back of the case so that the USB port can pass through and connecting straight to the USB charger. The modified clock has been running steadily for more than 5 years now. Aside from power failures which I need to turn it on and turn on the clock app back, no other issues. The battery indicator is 0%, but charging. Direct power, no battery in tablet. So I thought the same technique would work for the galaxy tab s 8.4. Did the same like the nexus tablet. It kind of work, until I noticed the battery is draining. It starts at full charge (100%), then it will slowly drain to 0% and the battery will die. At first I thought I did a bad job at soldering or connnecting the wires, but after a week of trial and error, I finally found the problem. With the tab s, direct connection does not work. The battery appears full, then slowly charges down. The tablet does not detect a charge, even when it is actually connected to the wall.Does anyone know how to fix this problem?One method I did think was rewiring the battery csbles so that it loops to itself. Red to red, black to black, without the spliced micro USB cable. Then power will come directly from the micro USB port. I noticed that if I connect the charger to the port, there is a charge. But since I have two power sources going to the tablet, connecting through USB port will cause the tablet to turn off. Maybe overload or something.I don't think removing the battery connection and just using the micro USB port port for direct power supply will solve the problem as I did try to just connect it while removing the power source which is attached directly to the battery. It did register a charge, but it can't turn on.
  10. Are all +12V pins from the PSU (6+2 & 4+4) created equal? Rather, for a single 8 wire connector, as long as the 4 ground pins on the PSU are wired to the 4 ground pins on the CPU and the 4 +12V pins on the PSU are wired to the 4 +12V pins on the CPU, does it matter if the wires don't follow the specific, factory pinout? Wall of text below. I'm creating a set of custom PSU cables for my new/first PC build in a Louqe Ghost S1 with Corsair SF600. I've traced all wires and verified the pinout with multiple other sources (everything agrees with this post). I've completed my GPU cables and made them exactly the same pinout as the stock wires, putting the twists/crossovers behind the PSU (out of sight, out of mind). I think I can hide the crossovers in 24-pin cable behind the GPU cable connections on the PSU side. Where I'm running into the dilemma is the 8 pin CPU cable; due to the orientation of my components if I follow the stock pinout there will be a big ugly twist front and center, no matter where i put it, instead of a showcase of neatly sleeved and organized wires. Hence my original question. I am fairly certain that it won't matter as these are power delivery and not signal wires. My guess is that they are probably pinned in the easiest way to split up the stock black ribbons at each connector, but I have never done this before and don't want to fry any components for small vanity. I have searched all over and the closest answer I could find was a thread where someone talking about how the custom cables they ordered did not match the pinout of their stockcables. They were told by the creator of said cables that they will work just fine but it was an old post that died out before ever giving a solid answer. Work preview below as tribute. MDPCX Shade 19, Platinum, and Vanilla Sands, will post full build pics once complete
  11. Before I start, here are the relevant parts to my issue: Gigabyte Z390 UD motherboard CoolerMaster ML240L RGB Liquid Cooler Fractal Design R6 Blackout Case Manual links: Cooler Master ML240L https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1452876/Cooler-Master-Masterliquid-Ml240l-Rgb.html?page=13#manual Fractal Design R6 Blackout Case (Attached) The wiring diagram from Cooler Master for this cooler is lackluster to say the least, it shows that the pump needs to be connected to the CPU_FAN header, while the actual fans need to use the supplied splitter and be connected to the CPU_AUX header (or equivalent), while all the RGB/PWM 4 pin headers all go to the supplied PWM controller from the ML240L box. I have two questions: 1. Does it matter if I connect the splitter fans to any SYS_FAN header on the board instead? The Gigabyte z390 UD only has one CPU_FAN header, and 3 SYS_FAN headers, and my case will have 5 fans total after the ML240L is installed with the 3 existing case fans. This creates a bit of an issue with header availability, I need 4 headers, but only have 3 for fan support. I could use splitters on the case fans to reduce the amount of headers used, but I don't want to wait for them to arrive from amazon, but I could just leave one unplugged in the meantime, and add it when the splitter arrives. 2. There is a PWM controller mounted inside the back panel of this case. The manual for the case instructs that the power for the controller is to be supplied via SATA cable (there was one nearby, so that was easy), and that the soldered connection from the controller be plugged into the CPU_FAN header. I have attached an image of the specific page in the R6 manual with the schematic for the PWM controller/fan hub. There is a total of 6 lead wires on the Cooler Master ML240L assembly, two from each fan, and two from the pump block. Here is what I want to do: Plug the fan hub connector into the CPU_FAN header, power the fan hub with sata (these are a given), then I want to plug all the Power connectors for the fans into the left side (3 pin) headers on the fan hub, as well as the block pump, and all the rgb/pwm 4 pin connectors into the right side, hopefully bypassing the need for the PWM controller that came with the cooler kit. OR I could use the PWM controller and use the fan hub simply for the fans, and the block pump (3 pin). Hopefully I explained my thoughts clearly enough. If anybody can confirm if what I'm thinking will work, or can help direct me otherwise it would be much appreciated. Thanks! d29f080e-6bef-44b5-a5fb-9e02b8767a29.pdf
  12. I'm renovating my spare bedroom into an office type deal. I'm building a new computer for that aswell and i'd love to be able to use it on my 4k tv, for gaming or other stuff. Only problem is my tv is about 10m away from the office (bout 15m with outside wiring that i'm gonna do). So what is the easiest way to get HDMI and USB over there? I'm already planning on wiring an ethernet cable from my router (located near my TV) to the office, and i read that HDMI can be run over ethernet as well so that's 2 ethernet cables. But is USB effective over that or is there a better way? I need USB to connect mouse and keyboard ofc. Any input is appreciated
  13. We go through the steps of taming one of the worst cabling messes like a PRO, custom-length cables and all. Sponsored by Cablemod. Use code "BYECOLTON" and get 10% off CableMod's Configurator at http://geni.us/JQIc - valid until August 8th. Buy CableMod cables on Amazon at http://geni.us/XLXy2l Buy CableMod cables on Newegg at http://geni.us/8hp5
  14. I am trying to replicate what is logged in this blog, replacing the switch on the lower assembled part of the vacuum. The switch connects on both ends to a 22awg,105Celsisus,600v, red wire. I'm concerned with possible issues that may arise from theses wires, such as overheating, shorting, or causing an electrical fire. The broken switch had both ends heat shrink tubed, but could I wrap electrical tape around both ends instead? Or just go ahead and shrink tube wrap them?
  15. I know its a car emblem and design for cars, but the wiring that displays the LED is so simple. simply black and red just like a speaker at home. in case you might be confused here's what I'm talking about >>>> https://www.ebay.com/itm/192253550944. How can i connect this wiring to my PSU? is it possible?
  16. Currently undertaking my first ever build, and like many its an extremely budget build. I got a dg33m06 se0709 from an old Dell Inspiron. Only problem is, I obviously don't have the manual, and I can't work out how to connect the front panel wires. I have these wires: To connect to these pins: Here is where it gets tricky. Every video I've seen, the MOBO has writing on it right next to the pins to help figure it out, but all I've got it this: Can anyone who has experience or knowledge in reading this sort of diagram give me a hand? Much appreciated
  17. Hi, I have a generation type 2 white Corsair cable kit (including the 24pin set) for my AX 860 and I'm really confused with the wire opening size. I have a vendor offering an option between 2.5 (2.65mm) and 2.85mm sizes. Which one should I go for ? The only option for Cable Combs I have is from a brand named Munky Mods - Pro Flex series. http://geb.ebay.in/ImportHubViewItem?itemid=162229271605 I am from Mumbai (Bombay), India and this seems like the only option I have and importing it through eBay (India). It is mentioned on the web link that 2.5mm will fit Corsair PSU's but I checked another site and they were recommending the biggest size for the Gen 2 Type Cable Kit. So here I am confused AF! HELP!
  18. Hi guys, is it better to Connect my x61 to the cable provided with the AIO, or CPU Fan header and use a splitter ? Thanks in advanse
  19. This is my frist build I have done. I am not quite sure if my cords are wired right. Espically as I am a newbie. I have included pictures and formatted a PC Partpicker list. Any help is thanked and replies are geatly valued **Describing my problem** Last night everything was great and the fans turned on. Then this morning I decided to do some cord management since ya, I thought air fow would be better. When redoing all the cords it had stopped turning on the fans, while my motherboard's on led was still responding. I am not sure whats wrong. **List anything you've done in attempt to diagnose or fix the problem.** Repluging all the PSU cords. Not much else. **Post relevant photos of build/parts here.** [Rig Pics](http://m.imgur.com/a/kiRCl) [PCPartPicker part list](http://pcpartpicker.com/p/d9DGsY) / [Price breakdown by merchant](http://pcpartpicker.com/p/d9DGsY/by_merchant/) Type|Item|Price :----|:----|:---- **CPU** | [Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/intel-cpu-bx80646i54690k) | $0.00 **CPU Cooler** | [Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/cooler-master-cpu-cooler-rr212e20pkr2) | $0.00 **Motherboard** | [Asus Sabertooth Z87 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/asus-motherboard-sabertoothz87) |- **Memory** | [Corsair Vengeance 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/corsair-memory-cmz16gx3m2a1866c9) | $81.99 @ Newegg **Storage** | [OCZ Vector 180 480GB 2.5" Solid State Drive](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/ocz-internal-hard-drive-vtr18025sat3480g) | $169.99 @ Amazon **Case** | [Raidmax Vampire ATX Full Tower Case](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/raidmax-case-atx001wbti) |- **Power Supply** | [Thermaltake SMART 750W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/thermaltake-power-supply-sp750pcbus) | $49.99 @ Newegg | *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* | | Total (before mail-in rebates) | $321.97 | Mail-in rebates | -$20.00 | **Total** | **$301.97** | Generated by [PCPartPicker](http://pcpartpicker.com) 2016-03-28 13:52 EDT-0400 | *EDIT* I have purchased every part except my Vid Card, since my dads tight on money
  20. Let's start off by saying yes...I bought my computer from cyber power. I didn't really worry about the cables but I wanted to open it up today and take a look. I have never seen these type of cables before. Anyone know what they are? Imgur.com/5vd64Sd.jpg
  21. Hi, if you are reading this hopefully you know something about car amps and subwoofers Two things I have determined from research are: 1) AV/stereo receiver channels should not be bridged 2) Subwoofer voice coils should be getting a mono signal (not stereo) because otherwise they will be out of phase So based on these two facts, would it be safe for me to wire one voice coil to the left channel, and the second voice coil to the right channel, if the receiver is getting a mono audio signal? If the input to the receiver is mono, both left and right outputs will be exactly the same, correct? From my understanding, using one voice coil per channel will not bridge the L+R channels, but will still give the sub the power of L+R combined. Thanks in advance! @Lutkeveld @mr moose I know you guys might be able to answer this...
  22. So the second floor of my house is already wired up with cat5 (not cat5e as the house predates cat5e) wires. I recently decided to move my modem to the basement and hooked up all the cat5 drops to a switch. When It came to the only room that has a desktop in, my switch indicated that the connection was up with a 100mbps speed and full duplex enabled, this was when the desktop is OFF with the power cable still connected to the wall outlet. When I turn on the desktop the connection link goes from up to down and everything indicates to nothing as if there isn't any connection what so ever, but the patch cord is connected to both the keystone jack and the ethernet adapter on the desktop. Any ideas?? The drop is on the second floor fyi. Switch: Netgear GS725Tv3 Modem: SmartRG SR505n
  23. Hey, I just need to know what to look for when buying a cable, specially a long etherner cable. Thank you in advanced.
  24. So i am new to electrical wiring and i need some help, so what i want is a wall switch to turn on multiple wall sockets instead of turning on the sockets individually. This is so i don't have to turn each plug on individually for my PC. Can you help me with this? Thanks
  25. Does anyone know the best tool out there for finding a wire's gauge? Thanks for your help.
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