Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'wireless'.
-
Hello I have a N100 Mini-pc that I would like to have running in a remote location. Is miracast 2 the best way to connect it wirelessly to my main monitor? Is there other alternatives or free ones?
-
Hey, I've had a bunch of different headsets through the years but my current one is special, beyond anything I've ever had before. Possibly not in the most rational way, but for me it's both the best and the worst headset I've ever had. Just like many others I've went through my handful of Steelseries Siberia V2 over the years. Some because they simply broke, some because they've worn down (I may have abused a few and exercised my free throw a bit too enthusiastically at times). But that's not the headset I wanna talk about. I switched over to a Steelseries Sibera 800 back in 2016 and I loved having a wireless headset. It allowed me to move more freely in my apartment and just upped the game for me when it came to quality of life. The dual-battery system with the little hub on my desk made sure that I (almost) never ran out of battery which was a game-breaker. Unfortunately, as the years passed, I would find myself swapping batteries a bit more frequently. In fact, significantly more frequently. The batteries had lost a noticeable portion of their capacity which triggered the search for a replacement. To say the least, finding a replacement for this headset was not easy. I had grown accustomed to never running out of battery, never having to grab a charging cable. For the past 3 years I've had the comfort of (almost) never having to pause what I was doing at the PC because of my headset. While I initially enjoyed the dual-battery system, It had started bothering me. The hub would many times not recognise that a battery was inserted which would lead to me swapping battery just to find out that battery was at 0% charge. What started out as this great feature for comfort had degraded into the exact opposite. This is where HyperX steps into the picture. I finally found something that could be the replacement I was looking for. This headset blew my mind reading about it. I had never seen a PC headset with wireless charging. So I bought it and was beyond excited about this feature...and goddamn if it wasn't the best headset I had ever experienced. I paired it with an IKEA HEKTAR desktop lamp that had a wireless charging pad and it felt incredible. While the wireless charging pad only had 5W induction charging, it didn't really matter. The headset had a staggering 30hrs battery time which was 5-10 hours more than other competitor headsets could offer at the time. This was the best headset I had ever had and nothing I knew came nearly close. 5 Years later. The wireless charging is still king. It is the only headset with this level of comfort. However, the headset has not been pain-free. A couple pointers: - The sound is not great. The quality is acceptable and while I only listen to music/movies/series using my SONOS multi-speaker system it wouldn't hurt to have better sound. Other headsets I've tested have noticeable better range, clarity, etc. than what these can offer. - The sound is NOT great. The headset have had an issue with crackling noises for at least 1-2 years, and it's only gotten worse. I've tried everything to fix this and there seems to be no way around it unfortunately. - The microphone is sub-par. The quality has degraded over the years to the point where I'm cutting to where half of what I'm saying sometimes is not being picked up. The microphone position is extremely sensitive, I have to make adjustments very frequently to make sure it's set in front of my mouth. - The physical comfort was great (emphasis on was). This is nothing new. Leather wears down and loses its cushioning effect eventually. The downside is that the top headrest leather piece can not be replaced and at this point I'm getting worried I'll end up like Tyler1. It's not great. - The software is horrid (well maybe). It's not necessarily about the software, it's about the connection to the software. The headset constantly loses connection with the software which prevents me from making any changes to f.e. keybinds for the side buttons. To be honest the software UI is quite ok, it's very simple and straightforward. - The game/chat volume toggle does NOT exist. This headset desperately needs a toggle to control both chat and game volume channels. I have to constantly adjust volume of browser/applications/discord/games which is not great. - They're kind of bulky and I wish they were slimmer but I digress. Despite all these issues, this is still the best headset I've ever had. Having wireless charging is everything and I feel that it brings incredible value to this headset. I feel it's time for a replacement but the problem is that there isn't one. HyperX has since discontinued this model and there is no way for me to purchase a brand new one (I would if I could). Why has no other peripheral company picked up on this? Correct me if I'm wrong, but I can not manage to find a single headset with QI-charging. There needs to be more gaming headsets with wireless charging and it saddens me that there are no other options on the market. Do I sacrifice the one feature that I love the most to improve on the other aspects of a headset? Or do I live through the cons until this headset eventually dies on me? After all, it is the best (and the worst) headset I've ever had.
- 10 replies
-
- steelseries
- hyperx
-
(and 2 more)
Tagged with:
-
There's a decent line of sight gap in the forest, about 200m from mounting positions, with very low brush coverage that won't be expected to obstruct it. Semi-rural, so not really worried about interference. I found this article: https://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2021/08/point-to-point-wi-fi-bridging-between-buildings-the-cheap-and-easy-way/ and am leaning towards a pair of CPE210 because it'll be <$120 total shipped, and comes with the PoE injectors. https://www.tp-link.com/us/business-networking/outdoor-radio/cpe210/#specifications But they're a few years old - is there a Only aiming for 50Mbps - this is upgrading a 6Mbps connection that runs from a neighbours property who is refusing to allow an upgrade to run on the same poles. The receiver will be out in the open, and this is in the rainforest in BC. I have no idea if IPX5 is sufficient. This is an install for a friend who is not technically inclined, so reliability and cost are the most important factors. Any suggestions for mounting brackets that will make it easy to aim? The transmitter will be about 20m above the receiver so we'll have to aim them at an angle.
-
Hi there! I got new wireless sony headphones about a month ago, and today they suddenly stopped working, while I was watching a youtube video. I tried the troubleshooting steps which were listed on the sony website, such as trying to charge them, reseting them and so on, but no results. I get no LED output, i even opened them, and all the wires seemed fine and none of them were loose. I tried to contact Sony support, but i couldn't get into their support website, as it states that: "Access was denied". What should I do? Please help.
-
- headphones
- support
-
(and 2 more)
Tagged with:
-
Before I get bombarded by "muh just use whatever you prefer" I can't sadly because I have some limitations due to the PC that the company sent out to me to work on. For starters, I need a pair of headphones, ideally earbuds, that are wireless. I cannot use Bluetooth to connect them to the PC as they do not allow me to do so in the group policy, so I am stuck with USB(USB A or USB C both work, I have ports available for both) wireless earbuds. Additionally, it is not necessary for them to have a microphone, I have a desk mounted microphone that handles that for me (Elgato Wave 3). Another reason I would prefer earbuds, is because I wear glasses the entire time while working, and anything that wraps around my ear or covers it directly causes a weird pressure that presses my glasses up against my head which I would have to solve by wearing my glasses all crooked. Battery life isn't the biggest concern because I would only be wearing one ear bud at a time while the other would be able to charge, this is mainly a preference I have because I like being able what goes on around me. Currently, I am using these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CHVWJP7N (EKVANBEL Bluetooth Headset) and while it is not terrible, it is very hard to make it sit comfortably in my ear for longer than an hour and it gets even worse when I go from one ear to the other because the earbud tip itself is just not all that comfortable. Another small squabble I had was that it does take a little longer than I think it should to put on because getting that little loop around your ear just isn't as intuitive as I would like it to be. I have also tried this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C13ZK3LS (LEVN Wireless Headset) which also was not terrible, I actually like these a good amount, but I am not a fan of anything that is going to sit on my head for as long as 8 hours a day on really busy days. Plus that earcup was rather deceitful and did not include anywhere nearly enough cushion to not hurt the outer part of my ears after 2-3 hours of usage, I would often take it off for a small break and be surprised by sore ears. This was also what was causing that weird pressure against my head that would cause me to wear my glasses crooked, the problem I mentioned in the first paragraph of this post. I have started looking at some alternatives and was wondering if anyone has used any of these? And of course I am also open to recommendations. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BM23XX5L (Jabra Evolve2 True Wireless Earbuds) These seem very much perfect, but the price is a bit yeesh and I was curious as to if anyone here has tried them and could testify to their quality? And by that I mainly mean if there is any hassle when it comes to them connecting to a computer or if they are not as consistent as one would hope. The fit is semi important but as long as its comfortable for at least 2-3 hours at a time, no big deal and even then, I can overlook it to a degree as long as they don't cause me pain in my ears lmao. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B87MQG2N (Soundcore VR P10 Gaming Earbuds) These seem like a good option as well and significantly better when it comes to price. Although if opinions lead to "just save up for the Jabra's" then I would be able to do so, but if I could away without having to spend that much out right then I would like to. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B72HWWXH (LG TONE Free True Earbuds T90) These seem like a good middle ground between the Jabra's and the Soundcore's, and while they don't feature a USB dongle, they have the ability to connect the headphone case to a computer via a wire which would then turn the earbud case into a big dongle that charges the headphones as well. My main questions with these earbuds is how the connectivity is between the case, earbuds, and pc. I know LG has other models that have the same feature that turns the case into a dongle but these were the ones I had saved. So yeah, these seem like a good middle ground, my main concerns as always is just comfort and more importantly connectivity. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C32WZJ3N (ZDMYY Bone Conduction Headset) This is a bone conductive headset which is kind of a best of both worlds kind of deal where I wouldn't wear anything in my ears for hours at a day, but I also wouldn't have a big headband sitting atop of my head. The brand name leads me to think that these are just dropped shipped from Ali Express or something. Not inherently a bad thing, just makes me a little weary in terms of build quality. My main worry with these kinds of headsets is that they might get heavy feeling or uneasy on my ears, and I don't think they'll affect my placement for my glasses too badly and I don't see them bothering me too badly in that regard. And then another thing I am worried about that is mainly just with these, is how they might sound. I've never tried anything bone conductive before so it would be my first and a very new experience for me. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BQ1DJMV8 (Poly Voyager Free 60+) These seem like an alternative to the Jabra Evolve2's and while I have not previously heard of the brand, they do seem to be a little more prominent in the work from home/conference headphone space. And my worries are again in the same ballpark as with the Jabra's and the other headphones, so mainly worried about connectivity and comfort, sound quality isn't 100% necessary but would definitely be a positive. Honestly, right now this feels like I'm kind of searching for a needle in a haystack trying to find something that fits all my wants and needs so any advice or help would be greatly appreciated.
-
Hi All So I teach in the mornings and do have a problem class that just doesn't concentrate well. I won't go too far into it but these kids' parents bought their way into the school. Most of my presentations are PowerPoint based and I've been using a presentation pointer which works well as it allows me to walk around the class and still teach, but functionality is limited to up and down. It does have a laser pointer but this doesn't work well on monitors. I do rely on the pointer as walking around the class, especially near the disruptive ones and engaging them does quiet them down/cause them to write. I've been adapting presentations and finding new ones that may engage with them more (more dynamic), but my simple pointer wouldn't be enough. My computer is a laptop/tablet combo (Asus ROG Z13, was on an unboxing video with Alex) and works well. I'm thinking that if I could find a good wireless type C transmitter to HDMI receiver, I could still walk around the class but be able to click on different parts of my laptop's screen (more dynamic presentations) rather than just up/down. Whilst I can find HDMI options, I'd like to keep the bulk down considering I'd be carrying it around. My laptop has 2xType C ports (not sure of the generation but I believe support TB3), I guess the best thing would be to have a Type C to HDMI adaptor and have the transmitter plugged into that, potentially a small mod to have it not dangling around too much. The type C port isn't the sturdiest in the world, so I know I'd have to be careful with it. Does anybody have any thoughts, feedback, or experience with this sort of setup? Many thanks!
-
Hey all! I play D&d with friends a lot and I use some steam software (Dungeon Alchemist) to visualize maps etc. I have been able to do this on my Samsung TV through the steam link app up until now. Unfortunately Samsung is pulling the plug on that software in 2 weeks on all of their TVs. I can control everything by plugging the Bluetooth dongle for my wireless mouse and keyboard directly into my TV, and the steam link app recognizes them. (the TV itself does not, but as soon as I open the steam link app, they work). It wasn't perfect and it tended to bug a little bit but for my use case, it was enough. I only had to occasionally open different maps and walk through them a bit. Since the software does not support controllers, I have to use a kb and mouse combo. I tried connecting a Chromecast I borrowed from a friend and doing the same thing, however I noticed the Chromecast will just not recognize the input from my mouse and keyboard. I looked online and I found options to buy a seperate USB hub, put it between my TV and a chromecast, and that can SOMETIMES work. However, spending +- 100 euros on a 4k chromecast + a hub as a gamble sounds a bit rough to me. Keep in mind I don't need the chromecast for anything other than this specific use case, as my 4k samsung TV supports all other newest apps etc. Does anybody else have other suggestions, or ideas?? I know I could also buy an Nvidia shield (4k) but they are still VERY expensive (200+ euros here) and honestly I should just be able to stream to my TV (and be able to use wireless devices) without buying tons of hardware. Update: I also found the xiaomi Mi box S 2nd gen which should be able to do 4k streaming, however I don't know if it allows steam link and I don't know if it supports wireless kb and mouse. There is a USB port but I don't know if it supports kb and mouse I also don't know if it allows me to open my file explorer on pc to load different maps into Dungeon Alchemist. Any help is greatly appreciated! Thank you!
-
Hey, I have an HP Victus 16 (4H2B4EA#ABU) which I can't seem to connect to any wireless network. I had given it for a warranty claim and now that it's back, it's original issue with the screen is resolved but I'm unable to use the wifi feature. I first tried reinstalling windows from scratch to rule out any driver problems. Then I tried running some BIOS tests which report that the wireless network module is not installed. I took that to mean the wifi card is not installed so I opened the laptop back to see if I could locate the wifi card and it is indeed there and has a cable going to it that's supposed to connect to it. Further, since I mentioned that I got the item back after a warranty claim, the QA passed list provided with the machine says the wireless connectivity was tested and worked just fine. My only guess at the moment is that the wifi card isn't working but if there is something I can try to narrow the problem down, ideally on the software side of the things, please do let me know. Thanks! EDIT 1: Bluetooth is also not available.
-
Hi all, I'm using Nobara 38 with KDE and I have the Archer T6E AC1300 wifi card. I'm dual booting Windows 10 and Nobara from physically separate drives, they don't have any common partitions or drives either. The distro didn't seem to have any drivers installed for the card, so I followed various forum posts and installed the braodcom-wl drivers for the wifi card using dnf. I ran the command lspci -nn -d 14e4: and got the following output-- 04:00.0 Network controller [0280]: Broadcom Inc. and subsidiaries BCM4360 802.11ac Wireless Network Adapter [14e4:43a0] (rev 03) My wifi card seems to be able to connect to my router and hotspots from my phones, but fails to create a hotspot from the PC. I'm not using any terminal commands to create hotpspot, I'm clicking on the Hotspot button in the Network system tray menu. Everytime I get the notifications shown below when it fails-- I have even tried creating a Wifi (shared) network manually from the Connectivity page of KDE Settings. It also gives the same mesasge. PC Specifications:- CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 GPU: AMD Radeon RX 6600 8GB GDDR6 Motherboard: ASrock B450M Pro 4 RAM: 2x8 GB 3600 MHz running at 3200 MHz Storage: 1 TB NVMe m.2, 1 TB SATA 3 6 GB/s m.2, 1 TB SATA 3 6 GB/s 2.5' Power: Corsair RM650 80+ Gold Please help fix this problem, or understand why it's happening. Thanks.
-
I have a 6 year old pair on hyper x cloud 2s but they gotten uncomfortable as of late and the wire is annoying me. so id like to buy a wireless headset this black friday but ive got no clue which one to get. Id like to spend at most £150, so any recommendations would be welcome.
-
Hi This isn't a desperate situation but I think it's unusual enough to document, after a quick Google search last night and I couldn't find anything quite similar to what I'm experiencing here either. So for a few years now I have been using a Logitech K230 / M325 keyboard & mouse paired with their 'Unifying' receiver. They were gloriously cheap and effective for daily browsing & light gaming, I can bash away with them without fear of breaking anything expensive and if I need to do a lot of serious typing for study or business I plugin a lovely old Honeywell for that. Lately, the mouse has been a little off with right & left click not always going off correctly or holding fully while pressed, so I figured I'd might as well go and buy a new combo kit... So I picked up a Logitech K220 / M150 combo on clearence for $19 (AUD). The first thing I notice is no 'Unifying' branding on the (larger) dongle and the moulding for the new K220 is the same as the older K230 but doesn't have the cut-out for a power switch anymore. It must have also been on the shelf for a while, because the AAA batteries for the keyboard were dead when I put them in. Pulled the old dongle, fitted the new one and off I went, except... I didn't realize it at first, but there's something seriously wrong with this keyboard. Demonstrating in notepad, When I hit the 'b' key it actually types 'bu*'. If I hit b repeatedly, it changes case and goes 'bu*BU*bu*BU*bu*BU*' - it also opens the Calculator app each time, as if I'm hitting Func. + F4, which is marked as a Calc key. Hitting Func. + F4 on the older K230 does nothing. When I hit the 'v' key, it types 'gyv'. If I keep hitting v, it repeats 'gyvgyvgyv' but moves the cursor back to the end of the first three letters and sometimes, if you move it back to the end, adds an '8' and goes to the next line... When I hit the 'r' key it types 'cn1`r\'. If I hit the number 6 it types '5z' and puts my PC to sleep! Really "fun" when it goes off for the first time... if I still had the box I'd re-gift it as a gag. My operating system is Windows 10, I've moved the dongle around to different USB ports (2.0/3), there's no 2.4Ghz devices nearby to interfere and I've only had this keyboard for like 2 days, so nothing rattles when I shake it and it hasn't become like the bin of a bakery yet. I tossed the box and receipt when I got it so it probably isn't going back to the shop now, but it was only $19 so my wallet just has to take the hit. That being said, if anyone knows of a fix or has had this problem and/or has some other trouble shooting tips I'd be happy to see them. Is it some weird driver thing? Is it the water in the toilet spinning backwards down here?
-
So I already have the parts for my first desktop build but it can't be connected to the internet yet. Would it work if I connect a usb multiplier with a wifi adapter in one of the ports via ethernet back to the mobo so I can get stable wired connection at all times? My wifi has a lot of ping. I tried a powerline for my laptop but it had to be reset once every 2 to 3 days which was a pain in the bum. moCA isn't an option, mesh adapter I haven't tried before but they're a bit pricey. I can't move the router an inch let alone lay cables all over the house. Any thoughts?
-
Hey, Anyone know if there is a headset that plays sound from both devices (in my case PS4/5 and PC) that can connect with either: - Two bluetooth at once, no wires needed (PS4/5 and PC) -or- - One bluetooth (PS4/5) and one wired (PC) The most important thing here, is that I can hear sounds from both, voice chat from PS and general sound on my PC. I've been using Steelseries headset with the gamedac, and it's worked fine, but everytime I open a game on my PC, a buzzing/white noise starts, which is very annoying. And now I'm moving around my setup and would like to match the PS with a proper TV, while the PC is at my desk.
-
Since a couple days ago, i finally became the proud owner of the JTK Tian Wen set including the special edition BBOX60 case. I waited close to half a year for this set, and i think it's one of the best looking sets out there! The BBOX60 gives it a lovely retro look because of the big bezels, and the caps are thick, quality caps that give the board a lovely sounding 'thock'. Lets modify this set to be wireless! The board now Kailh heavy Box Burnt Orange switches Brass plate GH60 PCB JTK Tian Wen caps BBOX60 case I really want to keep this layout, with the arrow cluster in a 60% footprint. So here's what i wanna do: The plan The coolermaster SK622 is a wireless keyboard with the same layout i want to keep on my board. I'll gut the coolermaster board to harvest the wireless PCB/battery. swap out the plate and switches for the brass plate and new Kailh Box Blacks. The coolermaster board has the USB connector on the wrong place, but because of the retro bezels of the BBOX60 case i can just use a USB extender cable to re-route it to the proper spot. And if everything goes to plan, my little board should be wireless! Depending on how much room i have left in this case, i want to fill it up with some acoustic foam aswell. So that's it for now, the new switches and donor board are on their way. Expect updates soon!
-
I’m looking for a decent wireless mouse for use at work. The one I have works fine but it’s tiny so I find it uncomfortable to use for extended periods of time, I prefer to use a palm grip so a larger mouse would work a lot better for me. I’d also rather not have to spend a huge amount on something built for gaming because it will never be used for that. Any ideas for a mouse that would fit this criteria?
-
Hey all, So I have some musculoskeletal issues and have found my hands/arms are almost pain-free by having my elbows slightly wider than the shoulders and my hand's shoulder width. So I am looking at getting a keyboard of the style of the ones in the picture I have attached as I am currently using a Razer Blackwidow Chrome v2, I would also like to swap my Logitech G502 for a wireless Gaming mouse. Does anyone have any recommendations? Does need: - Mechanical Keys - Programmable Macro Keys - Wrist rest - Wireless Doesn't need: - Numpad -RGB Nice to have's: - USB passthrough I can sell the mouse and keyboard I currently have for around £100-120 so that is the sort of budget I am working with. Thankyou
- 2 replies
-
- ergonomical
- keyboard
-
(and 3 more)
Tagged with:
-
Hello everyone! I'm not really knowledgeable when it comes to headphones, but I do like nice sound quality (While obviously not profesional, when I upgraded from my Galaxy Buds2 to Buds2 Pro I definetely noticed a bump in quality). It's not just about sound quality however, I also really want them to be wireless and preferably have a mic. I've been looking for a bunch of headphones to buy, and a couple of Logitech ones caught my eye (G935 and G733, for reference, the G935 is about $134 and the G733 is $160 in my country). When checking the Rtings review, it seems like the G733 is a better with bass (The G935 seem to have stronger than neutral bass, though a pretty flat response, which makes me think it could be easily corrected with EQ) while the G935 is better with treble, but I don't know how trustworthy those reviews are (They seem pretty good though). Other thing I don't really like about the G935 is that they use Micro-USB, while the G733 use USB-C. Which one of those two do you think would be better? Also, I wanted to get recommendations on headphones in general, without exceeding the prices I mentioned preferably. I'm obviously open for non "gamer" brands, though they absolutely need to be wireless, but I could maybe make do without the mic. I will be using them for gaming but also for general PC use, like calling, music, etc. Thanks!!
- 2 replies
-
- headphones
- wireless
- (and 4 more)
-
I have this powerbank: https://www.amazon.co.uk/EasyAcc-26000mAh-External-Battery-Portable-Black-Orange/dp/B016DA61V2/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1537036230&sr=8-5&keywords=easyacc+powerbank is there any issues of attaching a micro usb wireless charging pad such as: https://www.amazon.co.uk/EooCoo-Universal-Smartphones-Connector-USB-Positive/dp/B075RY6SYH/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1537035724&sr=8-2&keywords=micro+usb+wireless+charging+receiver Thank you
-
Hey, in beggining of August I plan on upgrading PC, almost from scratch, I will only leave case, PSU and SSD disk. Since I don't have a very big budget I want to build my PC around Ryzen 5 5600 and RX 6550. For this I need a motherboard with AM4 socket. My favourite is B550 model, and I want to ask you guys about recommendations. I would like to have OC on it so in future I can give it a try. The other thing is Wi-FI and Bluetooth, at the moment I don't use any devices with Bluetooth, but in future I will probably want to switch my Keyboard, Mouse, Headset, etc. for wireless devices, so my question is: Should I get motherboard with integrated Wi-Fi and Bluetooth, or is it better to buy an expansion PCI card later on. Open for opinions!
- 9 replies
-
- motherboard
- wifi
-
(and 4 more)
Tagged with:
-
Is there a 75% (or 65%) wireless keyboard with Bluetooth that automatically turns off the backlight but not the Bluetooth connection (or at least waits much longer before disconnecting)? I had a Keychron K3 v2 which goes to sleep after 10 min, and upon wake, it takes a few seconds to reconnect and fully turn on backlight. It's a bit of a hassle for intermittent reading and typing. The only option was to disable sleep completely. It's also what I don't quite get: Does Bluetooth cost a lot of battery compared to backlighting? I think it's appropriate to turn off the light after 10min, but why the Bluetooth... Same problem with my Bluetooth mouse, 900h advertised battery life, yet sleep can't seem to be disabled.
-
Hello! Since I'm in an old house with a small garage, it's the perfect place for me to put my server and self-host a bunch of stuff, however there is no such thing as an Ethernet cable down there and Unraid does not support Wi-Fi. I wondered on the internet to find out that I might use my old router (TP-LINK N600) as AP and extend the network from Wi-Fi to Ethernet, bypassing the various limitation. I then tried various guides, but my interface does not quite match the ones in the guide, and I get often stuck because when I reboot it after the changes or when I put it in AP mode, I can't access to it to see what has worked and what not (currently using Ethernet cable). My main router is a Fritz Box 7510, now onto the questions: Should I install the custom open source router systems on my TP-LINK? Does this make the process easier? Has anyone here tried to do the same thing as I'm doing? What was your experience? Here are the guides I found online: https://www.tp-link.com/ae/support/faq/718/ https://www.tp-link.com/lk/support/faq/74/
-
Heyo, Just wondering if anyone has had a logitech keyboard with an issue with double typing keys on one key press. This has been happening to me as of late. The only keys that seem to be affected at the moment are the R and S keys, but have read some logitech support forum posts stating that affects many more keys. https://community.logitech.com/s/question/0D53100006m6twZCAQ/g910-orion-spark-keyboard-randomly-double-or-triple-typing-letters The keyboard is the only wireless device in my room, so i do not believe it is a interference issue. I am most likely going to take it back for a warranty return in a few days, would just like some opinions or stories before i do. Thanks Guys :3
-
I'm looking for a wireless headset, I don't really care about sound quality, I do have some requirements: 1. Preferably cost less than $200 CAD (150 USD) 2. Be wireless/bluetooth 3. Have large and comfortable ear cups. The small ones get very uncomfortable. Again, I don't care about sound quality. I just want comfort and durability. Any other information you need, lmk. Thanks
-
I've been wanting to get wireless earbuds for a bit, as the wires on my headphones are getting rather annoying. Not using them for my PC, just my phone. I'd get airpods or something but I'm using an android device, so the experience would be neutered. Any recommendations? Preferably ≤$100, but I'm alright with a bit over
-
Hi! I had a really weird experience with my desktop computer. Even though Bluetooth was disabled in BIOS, I started hearing audio playback from Momentum 4 wireless Bluetooth headphones after connecting them to Samsung S23. I could also control YouTube playback (start & stop) with the headphones. Background info (Desktop) Windows 11 Pro: Latest updates installed Asus Z790 Creator: Onboard Bluetooth disabled in BIOS (Bios version 0816) Asus z790 Creator: Onboard WiFi disabled in Bios (I don't other WiFi devices, either) Connected devices: Logitech Bolt (Mouse & Keyboard), RME Audio Interface, Kingston SD Reader Monitor: LG 40WP95C-W, connected via mini Displayport - USB-C cable from RTX 4070 Ti Background info (S23) Latest firmware installed Latest updates installed What happened? 1) Paired Momentum 4 headphones with Samsung S23 2) Installed Sennheiser Smart control app on Samsung S23 3) Updated Momentum 4 firmware 4) Went to my desktop and wondered why I cannot hear the sound 5) Realized that audio playback is coming from Momentum 4 headphones I don't know at which point Windows connected to Momentum 4 headphones Findings Asus Z790: Onboard Bluetooth still disabled Asus Z790: Onboard WiFi still disabled Windows 11: Bluetooth on-off switch not shown Windows 11: Momentum 4 shown under "Bluetooth & Devices > Devices > Audio" Windows 11: "System > Sound > Volume Mixer" Momentum 4 shown as Output device and Input device Smart Control App (S23): "Momentum 4 > Connection Management" Only Galaxy S23 shown, Desktop not shown. Thus, Sennhaiser Smart Control App doesn't know that Momentum 4 is connected to Windows 11. Replication 4) Removed Momentum 4 from Windows 11 "Bluetooth & Devices > Devices > Audio" 5) Could not replicate steps 1-3 Notes I should have removed Logitech Bolt receiver while the audio was playing from the headphones just to what happens. However, it was too late when I realized this. I also should have tested what happens if I put other Bluetooth devices in pairing mode. Turning Bluetooth on 6) ASUS Z790: Enabled onboard Bluetooth 7) Restarted 8) Connected Momentum 4 to Desktop Findings Windows 11: Momentum 4 shown under "Bluetooth & Devices > Devices > Audio" Windows 11: Bluetooth on-off switch is shown Windows 11: "System > Sound > Volume Mixer" Momentum 4 shown as Output device and Input device Smart Control App (S23): "Momentum 4 > Connection Management" Both Galaxy S23 and Desktop are shown Windows 11: Audio playback from Momentum 4 headphones works fine Possible diagnosis The following devices don't have a Bluetooth connection: RME Audio Interface, Kingston SD Reader, LG 40WP95C-W1 Thus, there are pretty much only three of explanations that I can think of and all of them seem very unlikely. a) The Bluetooth connection has been formed with Logitech Bolt receiver b) The onboard Bluetooth device could be on even though it's disabled in BIOS c) Magic, Voodoo, Aliens or DMT Elves There are no other Bluetooth receivers connected to my desktop. Samsung S23 and the desktop should not be connected in any other way, either. a) Bolt receiver should not work with other Bluetooth peripherals. "Likewise, both Unifying and Bolt are proprietary technologies from Logitech. Therefore, they're not compatible with wireless peripherals from other brands." (makeuseof.com) b) I've never heard that devices that are disabled in BIOS could work. c) Seriously speaking not. Security Risk If peripherals are able to connect to Windows 11 even though Bluetooth is off, this sounds like a security risk. Bios Update I updated Z790 Bios from version 8016 to 0904. I'll be reinstalling Windows 11 in a few days. I will check if I'm able to replicate this issue. Questions 1) Do you have any idea how Momentum 4 was able to connect to Windows 11? It there something obvious that I'm just missing? 2) f I don't want my desktop to connect to Bluetooth devices automatically which one of these is a safer option? a) Enable onboard Bluetooth device and disable Bluetooth from Windows. b) Disable onboard Bluetooth and hope that this kind of situation doesn't happen again. Thank you! TK